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Auberge du Pommier: Truffle Soup with a rich history

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ImageChef Jason Bangerter of Auberge du Pommier (Toronto, Canada) describes his culinary style as "solid elegant Euro-French with a modern twist".  This style is a perfect fit for Auberge du Pommier, a French cottage located in the mega-tropolis of Toronto.  Today's recipe, "Truffle Soup", is a very special dish on the Auberge du Pommier menu.  The soup is a reflection of Chef Bangerters experiences, combined with solid techniques, to create "a fun and well balanced creative dish". We recently had the pleasure of learning about this wonderful soup from Chef Bangerter who is passionate and animated about not only this soup but all of his cuisine.  When asked about the inspiration for the "Truffle Soup" Jason provided us with an unanticipated surprise - a wonderful story of his culinary training and the development of this unusual soup.  Jason was unsure he could put into words "how wonderful" this soup is (we disagree). If you have any doubt then you'll have to do as Jason says and "come try it" at Auberge du Pommier.  The recipe follows but first is Chef Bangerter's interesting story of the inspiration behind his amazing "Truffle Soup".

The inspiration for the Truffle Soup starts back in the early 90's when I was an apprentice at Le Royal Meridian King Edward Hotel in Toronto.  The chef I was working for at one time was previously the chef for the Royal family in London and had brought back the recipe for the Buckingham palace shortbread cookies.  I was working in the pastry at the time and was responsible for the afternoon tea service in the dinning room.  I was very excited about making these great shortbreads (that the Queen eats daily!) and fell in love with them.  
 
Image Years went by and I found myself working in London for Anton Mossiman.  He is one of the official caterers for the Royal Family.  I believe the Queen mom once said his risotto a fungi was the best in the world.  I didn't actually hear her say it but it was the word on the street.  Mosimann's risotto a fungi is a rich risotto with luxurious ingredients.  I made this dish over and over again in many European countries for royalty and special guests.  It was not uncommon for me to be flown on Thursday to Switzerland to a chateau and cook this dish for a party of four and fly back on Friday.  It truly is a great dish.

This brings us to my soup.  Just before I came to Auberge du Pommier I was in Saint Moritz in the Swiss Italian alps (my first chef de cuisine position) and my wife was back in Canada; it was Christmas and I was alone.  It was so busy at the hotel (Kulm) that I didn't even know what day it was.  After service on Christmas day my good Italian friend and I settled down for our Holiday dinner; it consisted of one white truffle, a chunk of Parmesan cheese, some crusty bread and a bottle of wine.  It was wonderful!  The cheese, the truffle - amazing.
 
This brings me back to the Truffle Soup which represents my experiences and is homage to the great people and places I have encountered.
 
The soup itself is all the ingredients from Anton's risotto, with a few others, made into a soup form.  The soup is topped with a chanterelle foam and cepe powder giving it a cappuccino look.  The shortbread I serve with the soup is the Buckingham Palace recipe, sugar omitted, with grated parmesan and salt and pepper to season.  It is a nice savory short bread and works well with the intense truffle soup.  When in season, fresh shaved truffles are a must!

Thanks for the wonderful story Jason!

       

Truffle Soup

By Jason Bangerter, Chef Exécutive, Auberge du Pommier Restaurant

  • 1 cup cooking onion sliced
  • 1 leek (white only) split, washed & sliced
  • 1 stick celery peeled & sliced
  • 2 pc. garlic crushed
  • 1 lb. Portobello mushrooms, stems removed and caps sliced
  • 2 fresh bay leaves - tie the herbs together to remove easily after cooking.
  • 6 sprigs fresh thyme
  • 6 sprigs fresh parsley
  • 2 liters mushroom stock, chicken stock or water
  • 1 cup Madeira
  • 6 tbsp. truffle paste (or 60 gr. fresh truffle minced)
  • 1/3 lb. butter diced
  • 4 oz. truffle oil (good quality)


Yields approximately 2 Liters

1. In a stock pot, using low heat sweat the onion, garlic, celery and leek until tender (if using fresh truffle add in this step).  
2. Add the mushrooms and cook to wilt and release juices.  
3. Reduce juice and deglaze with Madeira.  Add the herbs.  
4. Reduce Madeira and add mushroom stock (just enough to cover contents of pot).  Cook for 15 minutes and add truffle (paste).
5. Take the pot off the heat.  Remove the herbs and allow soup to cool slightly.   
6. Purée the soup while still warm and add diced butter a piece at a time following with truffle oil to emulsify.  
7. Pass through a fine mesh strainer.  Adjust seasoning and consistency with mushroom broth.
 
To garnish, serve a piece of good quality Parmesan cheese and a drizzle of truffle oil or thinly sliced fresh truffle when in season.
Enjoy!

Parmesan Shortbread

By Jason Bangerter, Chef Exécutive, Auberge du Pommier Restaurant

  • 110 Grams Flour (ap)
  • 80 Grams Butter
  • 80 Grams Parmesan Cheese


Salt & Cayenne Pepper to taste

1. Form all ingredients into dough.
2. Roll, cut & tray on parchment paper.
3. Bake @ 350F until golden.  

About Jason Bangerter


ImageAt the helm of Auberge du Pommier since 2002, Bangerter has proven time and again that French cuisine, while rooted in the classics is ready and waiting for exciting, creative reinterpretation.  Classically trained in Britain under uber-chef Anton Mosimannan and seasoned by his experience running top-rated Mosimann dining rooms throughout France and Switzerland, Bangerter continually draws on his gastronomic repertoire to push Auberge du Pommier's culinary vision higher, faster, smarter.

About Auberge du Pommier


ImageAuberge du Pommier is the original jewel in the Oliver Bonancini crown.  An exquisite French restaurant constructed around the rustic vestiges of two 1860's woodcutters' cottages.  Cozy wood burning fireplaces in the winter and lush garden terraces in the summer.  Inspired modern French cuisine of executive Chef Jason Bangerter consists of seasonal tasting menus for lunch and dinner combined with a vast selection of distinctive wine.  

Auberge du Pommier
4150 Yonge Street
Toronto, ON Canada M2P 2C6
416-222-2220
Reservations on-line

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