Written by Jennifer McLagan

Photo by Kieran Scott

Anthony Bourdain said, "Al Brown is a veritable Colossus of seafood cookery and GO FISH is destined to be a standard text for anyone who wants to know how to do seafood right." 

And GO FISH is well on the way, topping the bestseller list in New Zealand since its release. This is not a cheffy book; the recipes are straightforward and delicious, revealing the bounty of New Zealand's waters. There are familiar oysters, scallops, flounder and monkfish, paua and kina (better known here as abalone and sea urchin) and some uniquely New Zealand fish. Luckily Al is practical: there is a handy guide to New Zealand fish with suggested substitute, and the book's dust jacket folds out into a large poster illustrating the fish.

Al's sense of humor shines through in this book and he has an interest in quirky facts, another reason why I love it. The side bar with the clam recipe reveals that the biggest clam ever found was in Okinawa in 1956, and it weighed an incredible 750 pounds.

Al is equally passionate about fishing and cooking and he cares about their future. He challenges us to rethink how we harvest the oceans - this is a cookbook with a conscience. GO FISH is a celebration of New Zealand cuisine, full of stunning photographs, practical step-by-steps shots, and magnificent scenes of the country's coastline. It will lure you into the kitchen and have you calling your travel agent to book a flight to this beautiful country.

Littleneck Clams with Fresh Herb, Chilli & Garlic Broth

From Go Fish by Al Brown (Random House New Zealand, 2009). Copyright  2009 Al Brown.

Serves 6

Known to most as cockles, the correct name for these shellfish is actually littleneck clams. Found in abundance in harbours and estuaries up and down the country, these delicious-eating clams flourish in the intertidal zone and can be as dense as 4500 per square metre. Harvested commercially from as far north as Whangarei Harbour to the inlets of Dunedin Peninsula using accepted sustainable methods, littleneck clams are available practically all year round. They have quite a small flesh-to-shell ratio, but they give up a good amount of particularly flavourful briny
liquor when cooked. Though chowders are the most famous type of clam dish, I end up normally cooking these delicacies in simple and slight variations of the below recipe. I love to rustle up the kids, grab an onion sack and go for a gather at low tide. I can't think of a quicker, more satisfying meal than clams in a pot, with a splash of white wine, garlic, herbs and butter. Plenty of warm crusty bread for soaking up the broth is not negotiable!

• 48 littleneck clams, scrubbed
• 1 1/2 tablespoons finely diced garlic
• pinch of dried chilli flakes
• 1 cup white wine
• 2 cups chicken stock
• juice and finely grated zest of 1 lemon
• 1/3 cup roughly chopped fresh basil
• 1/3 cup roughly chopped fresh parsley
• 2 tablespoons butter

Place the clams along with the garlic, chilli flakes, wine, stock and the lemon juice and zest in a large saucepan, cover with a lid and place on high heat.

Cook for about 5 minutes. Give the saucepan a shake to mix up the ingredients and help the clams open.

Once open, remove the clams immediately with a slotted spoon, reserving the cooking liquid, and divide the clams into warm serving bowls.

Place the cooking liquid back on medium heat, add the basil and parsley, then whisk in the butter. Once the butter is incorporated, pour the broth over the clams.

Serve now!

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On October 5, 2009 foodies around the globe had a shock when it was announced that the 68-year old Gourmet magazine would be no more (although the recipes continue to live and can be accessed right here on Project Foodie).  The "Magazine of Good Living" influenced multiple generations in the kitchen and had recently published their latest Gourmet cookbook - Gourmet Today, thanks to which, that influence may well continue for another generation.

The Gourmet Today cookbook celebrates the changing landscape of the dinner table seen through the lens of former Editor-in-Chief Ruth Reichl, who oversaw the magazine for the past ten years.  The book celebrates a time during which salsa became the number one condiment in the country; cumin became just as popular as salt and pepper; and foods like Empanadas, a stuffed bread or pastry, that originated in Spain and Portugal became commonplace.  With recipes such as Chicken Empanada with Chorizo, raisins, and olives (see below), Gourmet Today truly showcases just how far we've come in terms of diverse flavor profiles.  

For more on Gourmet Today check out my review with the recipe for Shrimp Gribiche.

Chicken Empanada with Chorizo, Raisins, and Olives

From Gourmet Today by Ruth Reichl (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2009).

SERVES 16 AS A FIRST COURSE, 8 AS A MAIN COURSE

ACTIVE TIME: 1 HOUR        START TO FINISH: 3 HOURS

The word empanada comes from the Spanish empanar, or "to cover in bread." This wonderfully savory version may be Galician-inspired, but the salty sweetness of the added olives and raisins is Moorish through and through. We simplify the process in two ways: by making one large pie rather than the more traditional small ones and by using frozen pizza dough. Cut into squares, it is equally impressive as a first course or as part of a tapas party or cocktail buffet. Or pair with a salad and serve as a main course.

• 3 whole chicken legs, including thighs (2-2¼ pounds total)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• About 4½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 large onions, halved lengthwise and cut lengthwise into ¼-inch-wide strips
• 2 large garlic cloves, minced
• 2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California bay leaf
• 1/3 cup finely diced (casings discarded if desired) Spanish chorizo (cured spicy pork sausage)
• ½ teaspoon sweet pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika)
• ¼ cup chopped green olives
• ¼ cup golden raisins
• ½ cup dry white wine
• ½ cup Chicken Stock or store-bought reduced-sodium broth
• 1 pound frozen pizza dough, thawed
• All-purpose flour for rolling

MAKE THE FILLING: Pat chicken dry and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Add chicken and brown, turning once, about 6 minutes.  Transfer to a plate.

Add onions, garlic, and bay leaves to fat remaining in skillet and cook, stirring frequently, until onions are softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add chorizo and pimentón and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add olives, raisins, wine, and stock and bring to a boil, stirring and scraping up any brown bits. Return chicken to skillet, along with any juices accumulated on plate, reduce heat to moderately low, cover, and simmer, turning chicken once, until tender, 25 to 30 minutes.

Transfer chicken to a clean plate. Sauce in skillet should be the consistency of heavy cream; if it's not, briskly simmer until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes; remove from heat.

When chicken is cool enough to handle, discard skin and bones and coarsely chop meat. Stir chicken into sauce and discard bay leaves. Season with salt and pepper. Let filling cool, uncovered, while dough rests.

Form dough into a ball, wrap in oiled plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.

FORM AND BAKE THE EMPANADA: Put a rack in middle of oven and preheat oven to 400°F. Grease a 15-by-10-inch baking sheet (jelly-roll pan) with 1 tablespoon oil.

Divide dough in half. On a floured surface, roll out one half (keep remaining dough covered with plastic wrap) with a floured rolling pin into a 15-by-10-inch rectangle. Transfer to baking sheet. Spread filling evenly over dough, leaving a 1-inch border all around.

Roll out remaining dough in same manner. Moisten exposed border of bottom dough rectangle with water. Place top crust over filling, pressing edges together to seal. Roll edges in and press to form a decorative rim. Cut a 1-inch hole to serve as a steam vent in center of empanada.

Bake empanada for 15 minutes. Brush dough with scant tablespoon oil and bake until crust is golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes more. Brush empanada with scant tablespoon oil and cool for 10 minutes in pan on a rack.

Slide empanada onto rack, using a wide metal spatula, and cool to warm, about 30 minutes.

Cut empanada into squares and serve warm or at room temperature.

COOK'S NOTE: The filling can be made up to 2 days ahead and, once cooled, refrigerated, covered. Bring to room temperature before using.

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Banana Pudding with Vanilla Wafer Crumble

Amazon.com

Serves 6

• 5 large egg yolks
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1/4 cup cornstarch
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 2 cups whole milk
• 3 tablespoons banana liqueur (or 1 teaspoon banana flavoring)
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 ripe bananas

• 1 cup vanilla wafers (about 15 cookies)
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• Pinch salt
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted

To make the pudding

Whisk the egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch, and salt together in a medium bowl and set aside. Bring the milk to a boil in a medium saucepan. Remove from the heat and whisk a little at a time into the egg mixture. Once the bottom of the bowl is warm, slowly whisk in the remaining hot milk. Pour the mixture back into a clean medium saucepan (cleaning the saucepan prevents the pudding from scorching), add the banana liqueur, and whisk over medium-low heat until it thickens, about 2 minutes. Cook while constantly whisking until the pudding is glossy and quite thick, 11/2 to 2 minutes longer. Transfer the pudding to a clean bowl.

Add the vanilla and butter and gently whisk until the butter is completely melted and incorporated. Press a piece of plastic wrap onto the surface of the pudding to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate for 4 hours.
 
To make the crumble

While the pudding sets, heat the oven to 325°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. Place the wafers in a resealable plastic bag and seal (make sure there is no air in the bag prior to sealing). Using a rolling pin or a flat-bottomed saucepan or pot, crush the vanilla wafers until they're coarsely ground. Transfer them to a small bowl and stir in the sugar, cinnamon, and salt. Use a spoon to evenly stir in the melted butter, transfer to the prepared baking sheet, and toast in the oven until brown and fragrant, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. (The crumbs can be stored in an airtight container for up to 5 days at room temperature or frozen for up to 2 months; re-crisp in a 325°F oven for 6 to 7 minutes if necessary.)

To serve

Slice the bananas in half crosswise and then slice in half lengthwise so you have 4 quarters. Slice the banana quarters crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces and divide between 6 custard cups or martini glasses (sprinkle with a squeeze of lemon juice if you like-this helps prevent browning). Whisk the pudding until it is soft and smooth, about 30 seconds, and then divide it between the custard cups. Top with the vanilla wafer mixture and serve. (If not served immediately, the pudding will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, with plastic wrap intact. Sprinkle the crumbs on just before serving.)

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David Leite is a James Beard award winning author who was raised in one of the largest Portuguese communities in the US.  In 2004 he took his love of Portugal a step beyond merely exploring his heritage and became a Portuguese citizen.  Knowing that, it should be no surprise that for his first book he chose to share his love of Portuguese food.
 
In the New Portuguese Table you'll find an exploration of Portuguese food that mixes both the past and the present.  For those unfamiliar with the cuisine you'll find new flavors and new uses ingredients that will make you wonder why you've not tried that before.  You'll also learn that Portuguese cuisine is yet another amazing European cuisine.

For more on The New Portuguese Table check out my review with the recipe for Grilled Shrimp with Piri-Piri Sauce.

Fried Cornmeal - milho frito

amazon.com

Makes thirty-two 1 by 2-inch rectangles

Along with Maderian Griddle Bread (page 190), milho frito is the traditional accompaniment to Grilled Beef Kebabs (page 143), beef threaded on long bay leaf skewers and grilled over an open fire. The classic recipe is nothing more than cornmeal, lard, water, and salt. What makes it delicious is that it's deepfried. This version gets tons of flavor from stock, cream, and butter. Kale, a common ingredient, and cheese round out the flavor atencao
Don't use stone-ground or coarse cornmeal, or the result will be hopelessly mushy.

• olive oil for greasing, plus more for panfrying
• ¼ pound collard greens or kale,thick center stems and fibrous veins removed, sliced crosswise whisker-thin
• kosher salt
• 2 cups chicken stock (page 243) or store-bought low-sodium broth
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup fine yellow cornmeal (preferably goya brand) or instant polenta
• ½ cup ricotta cheese
  

1. Lightly brush an 8-by-8-inch baking pan with oil, and set aside.

2. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the collards and 1 tablespoon salt and cook until the greens are tender, about 10 minutes. Dump into a colander to drain and cool.

3. Meanwhile, add the stock, cream, ¾ cup of water, the butter, 1 ¼ teaspoons salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper to the pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Slowly pour in the cornmeal, whisking constantly. Reduce the heat to low and stir with a wooden spoon until the mixture thickens to the consistency of smooth mashed potatoes and pulls away from the pan, about 5 minutes. Stir in the ricotta until incorporated, about 2 minutes. Add the collards, take a taste, and sprinkle in more salt and pepper if needed.

4. Spread the mixture in the prepared pan and level the top with a greased offset spatula or the back of a spoon. Let sit until firm, 30 minutes to 1 hour.

5. Cut the cornmeal into 1-by-2-inch rectangles. Brush a large skillet, preferably nonstick, with oil and heat over medium heat. When it's hot, brush the rectangles with oil and sear, in batches, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Serve warm.

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While I may have let big cooking projects scare me off in the past, these days pretty much anything goes.  And although I really don't need yet another thing to fall in love with, I keep coming back to the idea of trying my hand at home made candy making.  Why? Well, just take a look at those Peanut Butter Goodness bars! What would be better than having your hands on those?  For me - it would be the thrill of making them myself.

Now candy making is fairly precise, compared to say a stir-fry where anything goes, and my desire to do it along with things like bread baking, pasta making (I'll share that story another day), cake making, and even Project Foodie itself says quite a bit about my personality. So yes, I'm a bit compulsive and I'm also devoted, but when I serve these Peanut Butter Goodness bars, truffles, and perhaps some turtles to my guests as a finale to my annual neighborhood dinner party I will be one happy candy maker - because that's the ultimate goal isn't it? To share the results of your kitchen creations with friends who enjoy them.

But first, I need to tackle candy making.  To help me on this path I've chosen "Chocolates and Confections" by Peter P. Greweling.  This book is part of the Culinary Institute of America's at Home series (the bread baking book in this series is one of my favorite bread books).  

As you might guess, the starting point of the book is not the luscious Peanut Butter Goodness.  Instead it is tempering chocolate.  I've taking classes on this.  It is not the easiest thing to teach and it is something that scares off many.  The Chocolates and Confections tempering section (yes it's a section not just a page) walks you through the process, gives you options and is one of the best explanations I've read yet on tempering. 

Of course, tempering is a technique you need to practice; Chocolates and Confections follows the tempering section with several recipes that let you do just that.  The rest of the book also uses the technique; a trend you'll see repeated throughout the book.  That's not to say this is a textbook, it's clearly targeted at the home candy maker.  The last chapter combines it all together with recipes like the Peanut Butter Goodness bar that use a variety of techniques - tempering, nougat, and caramel in this case.

Has Chocolates and Confections made me a master candy maker? No, I need to practice a lot more and even then I probably won't be a master, but I will be serving these bars at my party this fall…

Peanut Butter Goodness

From Chocolates and Confections by Peter P. Greweling and the CIA. Wiley, 2009.

MAKES 26 BARS

Peanut butter nougat with caramel and peanuts: The name says it all. This one is for the dedicated peanut fans.

SKILL LEVEL: 3

Nougat

• 1 Large egg white
• 9 oz (3/4 cup) Light corn syrup, divided
• 1 tbsp Vanilla extract
• 8 oz (1 cup) Granulated sugar
• 4 oz (1/2 cup) Water
• 3 oz (1/4 cup) Molasses
• 1 oz (1/2 cup) Milk powder
• 1 oz (1/4 cup) Confectioners' sugar
• 6 oz (3/4 cup) Peanut butter

Caramel

• 4 oz (1/2 cup) Water
• 1 lb (2 cups) Granulated sugar
• 1 Vanilla bean, split and scraped
• 1 can (14 oz) Sweetened condensed milk
• 12 oz (1 cup) Light corn syrup
• 6 oz (12 tbsp, 1 1/2 sticks) Butter, unsalted, soft
• 1 tsp Salt
• 12 oz (2 cups) Unsalted toasted whole peanuts

Enrobing and Garnishing

• 2 lb (3 cups) Milk chocolate, melted, tempered
• 4 oz (1/4 cup) Chopped unsalted toasted peanuts

1. Lightly brush a 9 × 13-inch baking pan with oil and line with plastic wrap.

2. To make the nougat, combine the egg white with 3 oz/1/4 cup of the corn syrup and the vanilla extract in the bowl of a 5-quart mixer fitted with a whip attachment. Do not begin whipping yet.

3. Combine the granulated sugar, water, the remaining 6 oz/1/2 cup corn syrup, and the molasses in a 2-quart saucepan, cover, and bring to a boil without stirring. Remove the lid and insert a thermometer.

4. When the syrup reaches 233°F, begin whipping the egg white mixture on high speed.

5. Continue cooking the syrup until it reaches 255°F. Remove immediately from the heat and pour the hot syrup into the whipping egg white mixture in a constant stream.

6. Continue whipping for 4 minutes after all the syrup has been added.

7. While the egg white mixture whips, sift together the milk powder and confectioners' sugar.

8. Remove the bowl from the mixer and fold in the milk powder mixture by hand using a rubber spatula.

9. Mix in the peanut butter by hand using a rubber spatula.

10. Spread in the prepared baking pan using an offset palette knife.

11. Combine the water, sugar, vanilla bean, condensed milk, corn syrup, and butter for the caramel in a heavy-bottomed 4-quart saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring constantly.

12. Continue stirring while cooking until the batch reaches 245°F. This is a good estimation of the required temperature. When the thermometer reads 240°F, begin testing the caramel using the spoon technique. The cooled piece on the spoon should be firm but not hard when the caramel is properly cooked.

13. Remove from the heat, stir in the salt, and carefully remove the vanilla bean using tongs. Stir in the peanuts. Pour the caramel on top of the nougat.

14. Allow the slab to cool to room temperature, about 2 hours.

15. Remove the entire slab from the pan by inverting and pulling the plastic wrap out of the pan.

16. Leave the plastic wrap on the nougat and turn the slab so that the caramel is up. Spread a thin layer of the chocolate for enrobing on the caramel. Allow the chocolate to set.

17. Invert the slab so that the coated caramel is on the bottom. Peel the plastic wrap off the nougat. Trim all edges of the slab and cut the slab down the middle lengthwise. Cut each half slab into 1-inch bars, yielding bars 1 × 4 1/2 inches.

18. Place the bars caramel side down on a screen. Pour the chocolate for enrobing over each piece.

19. Remove from the screen before the chocolate sets. Place on a piece of parchment paper to set.

20. Garnish with fork marks and sprinkle with chopped peanuts. Allow the chocolate to set completely.

Keys to Success

• *Stream the hot syrup down the inside edge of the mixing bowl so that it goes into the whites and not on the whip or bowl.
• *Allow the slab to cool completely before cutting. It is fine to leave it covered overnight at room temperature, as long as it is protected from humidity.
• *If the caramel is very soft when cutting, chill slightly to improve ease of cutting.
• *Use an oiled chef's knife for cutting.
• *Be sure to remove the bars from the screen before the chocolate sets or they will be hopelessly stuck to the screen.

About Chocolates and Confections

Chocolates and Confections at Home offers detailed expertise for anyone who wants to make truly amazing homemade confections and candies. The Culinary Institute of America and baking and pastry arts professor Peter Greweling provide recipes and step-by-step techniques that make even the most ambitious treats simple for any home cook.

Available at Amazon.com

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