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In my simplistic view of life, the world is divided into those who bake bread and those who don't. The latter group is then split into various factions espousing excuses that range from, "I'm too busy," to "You've got to be kidding." Kneadlessly Simple, by veteran baking pro Nancy Baggett, is aimed at those who hover in the upper echelon of that spectrum, but may even lure in a few who never suspected they could make their own bread.
New York Times columnist Mark Bittman published a recipe for No-Knead Bread a couple of years ago; it was an old-school process he learned from Jim Lahey of Sullivan Street Bakery. First class bread without breaking a sweat? This was surely the biggest innovation since the bread machine - only this rustic loaf looked and tasted like it came from some upscale bakery. The story became a national phenomenon, embraced by experienced bakers as well as novices.
Using this method, traditional kneading is abandoned in exchange for a very lengthy rising period. The slow fermentation that occurs during this time produces a chemical reaction that eliminates the need for kneading - and ultimately produces full-flavored artisan-style breads with notably good crust and crumb.
Time may do all the work, but the bread doesn't make itself. You must still maintain some sense of organization in order to track the dough's status, as directed in each recipe. The fermentation usually takes place over a couple of days, eliminating any ideas of spontaneity; but if you're going to be home anyway - say, caring for your family; working; or possibly confined to house arrest - just establish a reliable reminder strategy and you shouldn't miss the few significant moments that require your attention. (I'm exaggerating here. Baggett provides plenty of options for adapting the recipes to your own schedule.) Your reminder system can be anything from the low-tech Post-It Note to programming an alarm to sound on your wireless-device-of-choice. Honestly, the process is no more trouble than that crazy Amish Friendship Bread recipe that circulates every few years, and the results are significantly better.
With savory recipes like Scottish Oatmeal Bread, Four Grain-Honey Bread, Easy Buttermilk Pot Bread, challah, and San Francisco-Style Sourdough Bread, you'd better just resign yourself to stock up on flour and yeast the next time you're at the supermarket. On the sweeter side, Baggett provides recipes for Chocolate Orange-Hazelnut Bread, Yeasted Banana Bundt-Style Coffee Ring, Panettone, and Easy Cinnamon Sticky Buns, among others. The book also contains a selection of gluten-free recipes and ends with detailed instructions for adapting your tried-and-true favorites to fit this leisurely pace. There are even some clever ideas for giving "bread kit" gifts to friends. Each recipe throughout is tagged with a brief recap that evaluates the likelihood you'll have the ingredients on hand, as well as the degree of difficulty in making that particular bread…but you'll find that most are remarkably no-fuss.
Although it is becoming increasingly easy to purchase a good loaf of bread at any corner market, nothing compares to home-baked bread's irresistible aromatherapy, or to the satisfaction one feels in creating a good loaf. There are also significant economic savings involved here! And then there's the conversational value of having a science experiment bubbling away on your kitchen counter. And did I mention flavor? Ms. Baggett presents a convincing case for this win-win style of baking, and I'm all for incorporating it into my busy lifestyle, since the rewards are significant. And darned tasty.
Cheddar and Chiles BreadFrom Kneadlessly Simple by Nancy Baggett, Wiley 2009. The Hispanic influence on American culture over the past decades has been pervasive and shows up not only in the popularity of Mexican and Tex-Mex fare, but also in the widespread availability of ingredients like assorted chiles. Once found only in ethnic communities and markets, green chiles turn up in everything from soups and quiches to corn casseroles and both quick and yeast breads. (If you aren't familiar with green chiles, note that they are just slightly piquant; they are not the same as jalapeños.) This is a delightfully savory bread, particularly if a top-quality white cheddar is used. The loaf is shot through with cheese and bits of green chiles, and the crust is golden brown. It is great with chili, hearty, full-bodied soups, and bean dishes; it also makes an unusual but very appealing sandwich bread. For a different look and milder taste, prepare the equally easy cheddar and pimiento variation provided at the end of the recipe.
KS Quotient-Super-Easy: A minimum of fuss-free, easily mixed ingredients. No hand-shaping.
Yield: 1 large loaf, 12 to 14 slices each
- 3 1/2 cups (17.5 ounces) unbleached white bread flour, plus more as needed
- 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
- 1 1/2 teaspoons table salt
- 1 teaspoon instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast
- 2 tablespoons corn oil, canola oil, or other flavorless vegetable oil, plus extra for coating dough top and baking pan
- 1 2/3 cups ice water, plus more if needed
- 8 ounces (3 lightly packed cups) coarsely grated very sharp cheddar cheese, preferably white cheddar
- 1/2 cup very well-drained and patted dry chopped canned green chiles
First rise: In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the flour, sugar, salt, and yeast. In another bowl or measuring cup, whisk the oil into the water. Thoroughly stir the mixture into the bowl with the flour, scraping down the sides until the ingredients are thoroughly blended. If the mixture is too dry to incorporate all the flour, a bit at a time, stir in just enough more ice water to blend the ingredients; don't over-moisten, as the dough should be stiff. If necessary, stir in enough more flour to stiffen it. Brush or spray the top with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 15 to 20 hours. If convenient, stir the dough once partway through the rise.
Second rise: Vigorously stir the dough, gradually sprinkling over and incorporating the cheese and chiles. Fold them in very thoroughly to ensure they are evenly distributed . If necessary, thoroughly stir in enough more flour to yield a very stiff dough. Using a well-oiled rubber spatula, fold the dough in towards the center, working all the way around the bowl. Invert the dough into a well-greased 9 × 5-inch loaf pan. Evenly brush or spray the dough top with oil. Using well-oiled kitchen shears or a serrated knife, make a G-inch-deep slash lengthwise down the center of the loaf. Cover the pan with nonstick spray-coated plastic wrap.
Let rise using any of these methods: For a 1 1/2- to 2 1/2-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; for a 1- to 2-hour accelerated rise, let stand in a turned-off microwave along with 1 cup of boiling-hot water; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then set out at room temperature. Continue the rise until the dough nears the plastic. Remove it and continue until the dough reaches 1/2 inch above the pan rim.
Baking preliminaries: 15 minutes before baking time, place a rack in the lower third of the oven; preheat to 425ºF.
Baking: Reduce the heat to 400ºF. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the top is nicely browned; cover the top with foil as needed. Continue baking for 20 to 30 minutes longer, or until a skewer inserted in the thickest part comes out with just a few particles clinging to the bottom (or until the center registers 204º to 206ºF on an instant-read thermometer). Then bake for 5 minutes more to be sure the center is done. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Turn out the loaf onto the rack; cool thoroughly.
Serving and storing: Cool thoroughly before slicing or storing. Store airtight in plastic or aluminum foil. The bread will keep at room temperature for 2 to 3 days, and may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months.
Cheddar and Pimiento Bread-Omit the green chiles and substitute an equal amount of well-drained and patted dry chopped jarred pimientos. Otherwise proceed exactly as directed.
Rosemary Focaccia with Coarse SaltFrom Kneadlessly Simple by Nancy Baggett, Wiley 2009.
KS Quotient: Easy: Few ingredients, easily mixed. Minimal hand-shaping.
- 2 3/4 cups (13.75 ounces) unbleached all-purpose white flour, plus more as needed
- 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary needles (remove the stems), chopped fairly fine
- 3/4 teaspoon table salt
- 1 teaspoon instant, fast-rising, or bread machine yeast
- 1 1/3 cups plus 1/2 teaspoon ice water, plus more as needed
- 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided, plus more as needed
- 3/4 teaspoon sea salt or other coarse crystal salt
The name focaccia comes from the Latin focus, meaning "hearth," and this amazingly crusty flatbread was prepared long before modern-day ovens came on the scene. Especially in Italy, some versions are still baked on flat stones or tiles placed on coals, but for those without a hearth, a sheet pan set near the bottom of a hot, hot oven will do very well.
Puffy with hundreds of air pockets, crispy-chewy, and amazingly fragrant, focaccia makes the absolute most of simple ingredients like a little olive oil, coarse salt, and fresh rosemary. Don't even consider using the dried herb: Not only would its coarse, stick-like texture be intrusive, but during rehydration, it would draw too much moisture from the dough and discourage the formation of the gas bubbles essential for its enticing texture. This focaccia is so addictive, my husband and I often devour half a pan even before it has had time to cool. (I tell myself it's okay because we're eating mostly air!)
Yield: 12 to 15 servings
First rise: In a large bowl, thoroughly stir together the flour, rosemary, table salt, and yeast. Vigorously stir in the water, scraping down the bowl and mixing until the dough is thoroughly blended. Vigorously stir in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. If the mixture is too dry to blend together, stir in just enough more ice water to facilitate mixing, but don't over-moisten, as the dough should be slightly stiff. If too wet, stir in enough more flour to firm it slightly. Evenly brush the top lightly with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap. If desired, for best flavor or for convenience, you can refrigerate the dough for 3 to 10 hours. Then let rise at cool room temperature for 12 to 18 hours. If convenient, vigorously stir the dough partway through the rise.
Second rise: Brush a 15 × 10 × 1-inch (or similar) baking pan with olive oil, then line the pan with baking parchment. Brush the parchment with olive oil. Using a well-oiled rubber spatula, turn the dough out onto the pan; try not to deflate it any more than necessary. Drizzle the dough with 1 tablespoon of olive oil. With well-oiled hands, lightly pat and press out the dough until it is evenly thick and extends to within 1 inch of the edges all around. Tent the pan with nonstick spray-coated plastic wrap.
Let rise using either of these methods: For a 2 H- to 3H-hour regular rise, let stand at warm room temperature; or for an extended rise, refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, then set out at room temperature. Continue the rise until the dough has almost doubled from the deflated size. (If the pan has a 1-inch rim, the dough should be G inch below it.) Just before baking, with oiled fingertips, make deep indentations, or dimples, all over the dough. Sprinkle evenly with coarse salt.
Baking preliminaries: 20 minutes before baking time, place a rack in lowest position in the oven; preheat to 500ºF. Place the broiler pan on the oven floor.
Baking: Reduce the temperature to 475ºF. Add a cup of ice water to the broiler pan, being careful of splattering and steam. Bake on the lowest rack for 20 to 30 minutes, until golden brown, turning the pan from front to back for even browning about halfway through. Bake for 5 to 10 minutes more (or until the center registers 209º to 212ºF on an instant-read thermometer) to be sure the center is done. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Using wide spatulas, lift the bread from the pan onto the rack to cool, or onto a cutting board to cut into servings.
Serving and storing: Focaccia is best when fresh. Cut into rectangles and serve warm or at room temperature. Drizzle with additional olive oil or provide more as a dipping sauce, if desired. To maintain crispness, keep, draped with a tea towel, at cool room temperature for 2 to 3 days. It may be frozen, airtight, for up to 2 months, but should be crisped in a preheated 400ºF oven before serving.
Variation: Fennel Seed and Oregano (or Thyme) Focaccia with Salt Prepare the dough exactly as for the rosemary version except omit the rosemary. When garnishing with the sea salt just before baking, also sprinkle the dough evenly with 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds and 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano leaves or dried thyme leaves.
About Kneadlessly Simple Savoring a loaf of fragrant, warm-from-the-oven bread is one of life's great pleasures. Now you too can experience the joys of home-baked bread-without all the hassle and mess of traditional bread recipes. Taking recent advances in slow-rise, no-knead bread making to a whole new level, award-winning cookbook author Nancy Baggett serves up seventy-five of the easiest, tastiest bread recipes ever developed.
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Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.
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