Legend has it that 13th century Spain’s King Alfonso X credits his swift recovery from an unknown illness to sipping wine with small dishes in between meals.  He was so convinced of these dietary effects that he ordered tavern owners across the country to make sure they served a small snack or “tapa” (Tapas) with wine. 

Hmmm, I wonder if this is where more modern bar owners got the idea of serving assorted snacks with cocktails, beer nuts etc. One thing is for sure, these small “dishes” or “plates” are perfect during these current times of penny pinching and portion control.

I have always enjoyed the whole concept behind Tapas, it allows you an opportunity to try an assortment of tasty morsels in a style a bit more sophisticated than say your standard lunch buffet.  Roasted veggies drizzled with olive oil and smoked paprika or thin slices of Iberico Ham with olives and nutty manchego cheese are some of the more common bites. 

Tapas has become the symbol of Spanish cuisine and “The Book of Tapas” written by mother and daughter team Simone and Ines Ortega is a comprehensive guide to traditional Spanish Tapas.  These authors know of what they speak, having published “1080 Recipes” in 2007 which is hailed as the Spanish Joy of Cooking.  And if you need more convincing that this book is the real deal, be sure to read the introduction “What is Tapas” written by Jose Andres the legendary Spanish Chef who trained under El Bulli’s Ferrain Adria.  

The Book of Tapas is broken down by ingredient: vegetable, egg & cheese, meat, and fish.  Since I’m practicing a more vegetarian type diet this days, I  definitely wanted to see which dishes would  make great use of  all the great summer produce that’s available.  The Vegetable Empanada (see recipe below) was a perfect choice.  This dish, unlike the more common half-moon pocket style empanada, is a cross between lasagna and quiche with a buttery, flaky, pastry crust filled with layers of fresh well-seasoned veggies.  I’m with King Alfonso, this small dish with a glass of wine would cure anything that ails you.

Vegetable Empanada

amazon.com

From The Book of Tapas by Simone and Ines Ortega. Phaidon Press (2010)

Serves 6

• 5 tablespoons olive oil or sunflower oil, plus extra for greasing
• 2 scallions, finely chopped
• 2 zucchini, peeled and chopped
• 1 eggplant, peeled and chopped
• 3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
• 1 clove garlic
• 1 lb 5 oz puff pastry, thawed if frozen
• all-purpose flour, for rolling out the pastry
• 1 egg, lightly beaten
• salt and pepper

Heat the oil in a large skillet or frying pan over low heat.  Add the scallions and pan-fry for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Add the zucchini and pan-fry for another 5 minutes, then stir in the eggplant and let cook for another 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400?F.  Add the tomatoes and garlic to the pan and season with salt and pepper.  Give everything a good stir and let cook for 6 minutes, or until the liquid has evaporated.  Adjust the seasoning, if necessary.

Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface with a floured rolling pin.  Lightly grease a 12-inch baking tray with oil, then line it with half the pastry, leaving half hanging over one edge.  Pour in the vegetable mixture and then fold the other half of the pastry over it to form a lid.

Seal the edges of the pastry carefully, pressing them together and rolling them slightly, creating a ¾-inch border all the way round.  Cut 2 small holes in the center to allow steam to escape during baking.  Use a fork to score a pattern of squares on the top, but take care not to pierce the pastry.  Use a pastry brush to glaze the top with the beaten egg.  Bake the pie for 30-40 minutes, or until golden brown.  Remove from the pan and serve sliced.

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It is heavy on the veggies; skimpy on the meat.

It is a most unexpected new cookbook from the one and only Mario Batali.

Yes, the porcine prince, known especially for his way of coaxing unforgettable flavors from offal and other esoteric cuts of meat, has written "Molto Gusto'' (Ecco), a cookbook filled with casual, simple fare that puts the spotlight on seasonal, fresh produce instead.

The once portly celeb chef also has reportedly lost more than 45 pounds. He's even become a proponent of the "Meatless Mondays'' movement, which encourages people to eat more vegetables at least one day a week. To that end, Batali has added new vegetarian options at each of his 14 restaurants every Monday.

If you carnivores out there are tempted to stop reading now, you'll end up missing out. This is not a vegetarian cookbook. Indeed, you'll find dishes such as "Lentils with Pancetta,'' "Mussels with Peperonata,'' "Sausage and Pepper Pizza,'' and "Linguine with Squid & Its Ink.'' But the dishes are decidedly lighter, with meat used as an accent, rather than as the star. Even my husband, who would relish eating a big slab of meat at every meal of the day if he could, found himself enjoying a meatless pasta dish from the book far more than he expected.

That dish is "Pennette with Summer Squash and Ricotta.'' It couldn't be easier to make, either. It's such a cinch that you could even whip it up on a busy weekday after work.

Pennette rigate pasta gets boiled in a big pot of water. When it reaches the al dente stage, it's drained, then tossed with zucchini and summer squash slices that have been sautéed in olive oil, as well as a big handful of fresh mint.

Divide the pasta among serving dishes. Top with big spoonfuls of creamy ricotta that's been mixed with olive oil and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. That's it.

It's a dish that tastes of summer. The mint adds lightness to the rich ricotta. The addition of olive oil to the ricotta is genius, lending far more complexity to the fresh, milky taste. Be sure to use a high-quality extra virgin olive oil. When you have a dish like this that has only a few ingredients, you really want to make sure each is top-notch so that they really shine.

From antipasti to salads to pizza and pastas, this book will show you that you don't have to rely on meat to make a dish distinctive and delicious.

Give it a try. If Mario can, so can you.

Read more of what Carolyn has to say about Mario Batali and Molto Gusto on her blog Food Gal. 

Pennette with Summer Squash and Ricotta

amazon.com

Serves 6

• Kosher salt
• 1 cup fresh ricotta
• 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus extra for serving
• 2 to 3 tablespoons warm water
• 1 pound summer squash or zucchini, or a combination, cut lengthwise in half and sliced into 1/3-inch-thick half-moons
• Maldon or other flaky sea salt
• 1 pound pennette rigate
• 6 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh mint
• Coarsely ground black pepper

Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

Meanwhile, whisk the ricotta and 3 tablespoons of the olive oil together in a small bowl. Add the Parmigiano, whisking until it is evenly incorporated. Whisk in 2 table- spoons warm water, then whisk in another tablespoon of water if necessary to loosen the consistency.

Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the squash and cook, stirring, until just tender and golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Season well with Maldon salt and remove from the heat.

Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/3 cup of the pasta water.

Add the pasta and the reserved pasta water to the squash, stirring and tossing over medium heat to mix well. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and allow to steam together for 2 minutes.

Stir in the mint, season with Maldon salt if necessary and with pepper, and transfer the pasta to a serving bowl. Garnish with dollops of the whipped ricotta and serve immediately, with additional grated Parmigiano on the side.

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This season is flooded with cookbooks that celebrate fresh produce. We've seen a lot of them here at Project Foodie, and have already featured some of our favorites (here, here and here). It's easy to become jaded after a while and yawn off yet another publication, but Fast, Fresh & Green captured my attention.

For starters, this one is devoted solely to vegetable side dishes, the bane of many a mom. Author Susie Middleton is a former chef and current editor-at-large for Fine Cooking magazine—one of my favorites. Most importantly, however, she is an avid home cook who understands the daily challenge of serving meals that are quick, creative, and enticing. The ingredients she relies upon are available at nearly any well-stocked supermarket; and her recipes are easy enough for a weeknight family supper, yet flashy enough to serve guests.

Instead of the ubiquitous season-by-season format, the 90+ recipes are divided into 9 simplified cooking methods, such as Quick-Roasting, Quick-Braising, Hands-On Sautéing, and Walk-Away Sautéing. There's even a No Cooking chapter for lazy days, and a "bonus chapter" called Baking Gratins (with the sub-title "Slower but Worth It"). In fact, this book is as much about shopping, prepping, and mastering cooking techniques as it is about vegetables.

Follow the recipes as written and you won't be disappointed. But if you want to take it one step further, you'll be in for an eye-opening experience. Follow the author's advice and you'll stock up on pantry essentials (clearly outlined in the beginning of the book), and purchase a healthy variety of fresh veggies each week. Once these components are in place, the actual meal prep begins with your decision as to how you feel like cooking on that particular day. Is it a rushed evening that dictates a super-fast meal? Or do you have a little time to linger over a glass of wine as you cook? Maybe it's time to fire up the outdoor grill. You're the cook; you're in charge. Once you decide upon the cooking method, THEN you decide which veggies and seasonings best fit into your menu.

I have tried Ms. Middleton's approach over the past couple of weeks and found that it not only stimulates creativity, it is surprisingly liberating. The author takes the ho-hum out of dinner with dishes like Colorful Chinese Kick-Slaw; Happy Stir-Fry of Zucchini, Corn, and Peanuts; Sautéed Sugar Snap Peas with Salami Crisps; and Carrots with Warm Olive and Mint Dressing. Most of these side-dishes are so appealing it's easy to blow off the whole idea of serving a traditional protein alongside, and simply feast on veggies. And why not? Ms. Middleton proves that green is not only good, it's the best part of the party.

Braised Fingerlings with Rosemary and Mellow Garlic

amazon.com

Fingerlings. Just the name of these potatoes tickles me, and then there's that great knobby shape.  They're fun to cook with, and because they're relatively high in starch, braising is a great way to treat them. The starch helps them brown up quickly in the pan, but the braising liquid keeps their fluffy texture from drying out.

2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
8 large garlic cloves, each peeled and cut crosswise into 2 or 3 pieces
1/2 tsp kosher salt, and more as needed
12 oz/340 g small fingerling potatoes, halved lengthwise
1/2 cup/120 ml low-sodium chicken broth, and more if necessary
1 Tbsp unsalted butter
2 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 to 1 tsp sherry vinegar

1. In a 10-in/25-cm straight-sided sauté pan with a lid, heat the olive oil over medium heat, add the garlic, and sauté just until the oil becomes fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle the salt over the bottom of the pan and arrange the potato halves, cut side down, in the pan among the garlic. Cover the pan loosely, leaving the lid partially askew to let a little steam escape, and cook until the bottoms of the potatoes are nicely browned, 7 to 9 minutes. (Move the pan around occasionally for even browning.)

2. Pour in the broth (it will sputter a bit), partially cover again, and reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook, without stirring, until the chicken broth reduces to 1 or 2 Tbsp, 5 to 7 minutes. Pierce a potato with a paring knife. It should be just tender. (If not, add 1/4 cup of broth or water to the pan, partially cover, bring to a simmer, and cook until reduced to 1 or 2 Tbsp. Check again.) Add the butter and rosemary to the pan and stir the vegetables. Cook until the butter has melted and the rosemary has softened a bit and released its aroma, 1 to 2 minutes. As the butter melts, stir and scrape the bottom of the pan to incorporate any browned bits. Season the potatoes with a little more kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, and season with sherry vinegar to taste. Transfer the vegetables to a serving dish and stir and scrape out any remaining pan sauce over them. Serve warm.

Serves 3 to 4

Provençal Green Beans with Lemon-Pepper Oil and Herbed Sea Salt

From Fast, Fresh & Green by Susie Middleton (Chronicle Books, 2010)
            
My friend Ruth Lively, who's a terrific gardener and cook, tipped me off to dressing green beans while they're still warm with nothing but a really flavorful extra-virgin olive oil and a generous sprinkling of coarse sea salt. The fragrant olive oil mixing with the warmth of the beans creates a flavor that's just naturally delicious. Notching the flavor up just a bit isn't a bad idea either, so I often use an infused oil and an herb salt to dress the beans. The Provençal combination I'm including here is a lemon-pepper oil and an herb salt that you can make with either rosemary or lavender.

I have a lot of lavender growing in my yard, and it's taken me a while to figure out how to use it in the kitchen. I've found that just a little bit combined with a good sea salt, like fleur de sel, makes an intriguing condiment, not just for green beans, but also for other vegetables and grilled meats. That said, I certainly understand if it sounds too floral for you-opt for rosemary or just plain sea salt, but don't be shy about the amount of salt you use. The lemon-pepper oil is really versatile, too; drizzle any extra on grilled fish or grilled bread. (Make some extra and keep it in the fridge.)

You will have to taste the green beans after a few minutes of cooking to get a sense of how firm they are-that way when you taste again in another minute, you'll feel the difference. Keep cooking the beans just until you can easily bite through them (you won't feel resistance). I assure you that they'll still be green. You don't want to overcook them, but undercooked beans have a slightly unpleasant, rubbery texture to them. How fast your beans cook will depend in part on how old and how big they are; you can remove thinner ones sooner than the rest.

Serve these beans in high summer with mustardy grilled chicken. Or just eat them with your fingers after dressing them.

• 2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1 pound/455 g green beans, stem ends trimmed
• 2 tablespoons Quick-Infused Lemon-Pepper Oil (recipe follows) or best-quality extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/2 to 1 teaspoon Provençal Herb Salt (recipe follows) or coarse sea salt, preferably fleur de sel

1. Fill a large saucepan half full with water, add the salt, and bring to a boil. Arrange a few layers of dishtowels on a work surface to drain the beans. Add the beans to the boiling water and begin timing immediately. Boil until the beans are tender to the bite but still green, 5 to 8 minutes. (Begin tasting after 4 minutes; the cooking time will vary, depending on the age of the beans and how quickly your stove top returns water to a boil.) Don't undercook, as toothy green beans are not the goal here. Drain the beans, or use tongs to lift them out of the water, and spread them out on the towels to let excess moisture drain and evaporate, about 5 minutes.

2. Transfer the beans to a shallow serving dish and drizzle most of the oil over them. Sprinkle with some of the herb salt or sea salt. Toss gently and add more oil to coat well and more herb salt. Taste a bean and add still more salt if you like (be generous!). Serve warm.

Serves 4

Quick-Infused Lemon-Pepper Oil

From Fast, Fresh & Green by Susie Middleton (Chronicle Books, 2010)

This oil keeps well in the fridge, so double or triple the amounts if you like and use it on grilled fish or any steamed vegetable.

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon packed grated lemon zest
• 8 coarse grinds black pepper

1. Pour the olive oil into a small bowl and add the lemon zest and pepper. Let sit for 15 to 20 minutes before using.

Yields 2 tablespoons
 

Provençal Herb Salt

From Fast, Fresh & Green by Susie Middleton (Chronicle Books, 2010)

This salt delivers a lot of flavor. Lavender can be overpowering, though, so take care not to include more than 1/4 teaspoon of chopped buds per 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Mix this not too long before using. This salt is delicious on roast lamb, as well as on warm green beans.

• 1/4 teaspoon chopped fresh lavender buds or rosemary leaves
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt

In a small bowl, combine the lavender with the salt and mix well with your fingers. Let sit for a few minutes before using.

Yields 3/4 teaspoon

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Do you stir-fry? 

I used to get various assortments of vegetables at the Farmers' Market, cook them in a skillet and serve them over rice - stir-frying right? Well... I'm not saying the result wasn't tasty but it certainly wasn't a stir-fry. 

So what is stir-frying?  Grace Young sought out Chinese cooks from all over the world to find the answer to just that question. The result is "Stir-Frying to the Sky's Edge". From simple to not so simple, from meat to meat-less, and from traditional to modern Grace teaches you how to produce great stir-frys.

I've only begun, but already I've learned enough to know that dinner after a trip to the Farmers' Market won't be the same again.  Of course, the recipes require a bit more than fresh vegetables - the Chinese pantry can be a bit overwhelming if you aren't familiar with it, but Grace helps with that too.  

I started with Stir-Fried Eggs with Velvet Shrimp (see recipe below) because I have a thing for eggs and have always wanted to create a velvet dish. The dish is also fairly straightforward and doesn't require a bunch of new pantry items. 

I can't say I've mastered Stir-Frying yet, but that's the fun part of tackling a new cookbook isn't it?  Practice makes perfect… 

Stir-Fried Eggs with Velvet Shrimp

amazon.com

Velvet shrimp radically transform stir-fried eggs into a sophisticated dish. The shrimp are not velveted in the true sense of the technique (see Velvet Stir-Fry, page 100) because they are not blanched in oil or water. Nonetheless, the light egg white-cornstarch marinade gives the shrimp the "crisp" silky texture revered by Chinese food devotees. I take the teaspoon of egg white needed for the marinade from one of the eggs rather than break open a fifth egg. After refrigerating the marinated shrimp, be sure to let them stand at room temperature for 15 minutes

before stir-frying; if the shrimp are ice cold, they will not be cooked by the time the eggs are just set. I prefer to stir-fry these eggs in a wok. If you want to use a skillet, it may require another tablespoon of oil to prevent the eggs from sticking.

• 4 ounces small shrimp, peeled, deveined, and patted dry
• 4 large eggs, 1 teaspoon egg white reserved
• 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch
• 2 1/2 teaspoons Shao Hsing rice wine or dry sherry
• 1/8 plus 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon plus 2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil
• 1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper
• 1/3 cup chopped scallions
• 1 tablespoon minced ginger
• 1/3 cup frozen peas, defrosted

1. In a medium bowl combine the shrimp, the 1 teaspoon egg white, cornstarch, 1/2 teaspoon of the rice wine, and 1/8 teaspoon of the salt. Stir until the cornstarch has dissolved. Stir in 1 teaspoon of the oil. Put the shrimp uncovered in the refrigerator for 15 minutes. Bring the shrimp to room temperature for 15 minutes. In a medium bowl beat the eggs, pepper, and the remaining 2 teaspoons rice wine and 1/4 teaspoon salt.

2. Heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or 12-inch skillet over high heat until a bead of water vaporizes within 1 to 2 seconds of contact. Swirl in the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, add the scallions and ginger, then, using a metal spatula, stir-fry 10 seconds or until the aromatics are fragrant. Add the shrimp and stir-fry 1 minute or until the shrimp begins to turn color but is not cooked through. Add the peas, swirl the egg mixture into the wok, and stir-fry 1 minute or until the shrimp is cooked through and the eggs are just set but still moist. Do not overcook.

Serves 2 as a main dish with rice or 4 as part of a multicourse meal.

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