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COOKBOOK SPOTLIGHTS

An enormous number of cookbooks are published each year making it extremely difficult to decide which cookbooks to welcome into our kitchens. To help make that process easier, Project Foodie Cookbook Spotlights present and describe interesting cookbooks along with example recipes from those cookbooks.

Life, on the Line

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Written by Carolyn Jung   

When Chef Grant Achatz opened his acclaimed restaurant, Alinea, in Chicago, he named it for the paragraph mark to symbolize how his cuisine there would represent a “new train of thought’’ never before experienced in fine-dining.

Little did he know that exact same philosophy also would help save his life a few years later, when he battled stage 4 squamous cell carcinoma. There is no stage 5.

No doubt you’re familiar with Achatz’s stunning story, which has been chronicled in newspapers and magazines such as the New Yorker. But in his new book, ΄Life, on the Line: A Chef’s Story of Chasing Greatness, Facing Death, and Redefining the Way We Eat’’ (Penguin), Achatz tells the full story for the first time in his own words about the shock of being diagnosed with tongue cancer at the peak of his career at age 32.

Doctor after doctor told him he would die a painful death in mere months if he didn’t undergo radical surgery to remove his tongue and part of his jaw, which would leave him disfigured, unable to talk and without the ability to taste. For anyone, such a diagnosis would be devastating. But for a chef, it was beyond tragic. And for Achatz, a James Beard Award-winning chef whose restaurant already had been named ΄Best Restaurant in America’’ by Gourmet magazine and ΄Best Restaurant in North America’’ by Restaurant magazine, it was truly unimaginable.

Despite conventional thinking, Achatz decided to gamble on an alternative, experimental treatment that would spare him the horrific surgery. Perhaps that’s not surprising for a chef who has gained fame for his ΄molecular gastronomy’’ cuisine, which pushes the envelope with its foams, vapors, spheres and uncanny flavor combinations. Even so, the treatment of intensive, targeted chemotherapy and radiation was agonizing to endure. It essentially burned him from the inside out to try to annihilate the cancer.

The treatment was successful, but Achatz lost his ability to taste for awhile. Fortunately, it has since returned, though he still has a hard time with spicy and super sweet foods. His frame remains slight and his voice raspy. But he is as driven as ever — perhaps even more so now.

His ordeal with cancer, undeniably dramatic, takes up only a small portion of the book. The rest is devoted to all that led up to his life to that point — his love of being in restaurants since he was a toddler, helping out in his grandmother’s popular café in Michigan, and at his parents’ bustling eatery nearby. There are his early days learning the basics at the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, NY; his grueling time at Charlie Trotter’s restaurant under what he describes as the tyranny of an egocentric, bullying celeb chef; and his determination to get a tryout at the French Laundry in Yountville by sending Chef Thomas Keller a resume every day for 14 days straight until he called Achatz; and his stage at El Bulli in Spain — arranged by Keller — which totally transformed the way he approached cooking.

Keller became a mentor to Achtaz, who even named his second son after him. Achatz, who rose to sous chef at the French Laundry, also credits the discipline, drive and tenacity instilled in him during his four years at that landmark restaurant, as giving him the strength to survive.

The book was written with Nick Kokonas, his business partner and good friend, who was instrumental in helping Achatz navigate the ups and downs of his illness. It’s a mesmerizing read that you won’t be able to put down. At times, it will make you laugh out loud and at others, leave you nearly sobbing. Most of all, it will leave you with the utmost respect for a young chef and all that he endured on his journey to be the best.

For more on Grant Achatz, read the Q&A with him on FoodGal.

See the Alinea Hot Potato Cold Potato recipe here.

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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A Radical Departure

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Written by Peggy Fallon   
List of viewable recipes from "Radically Simple: Brilliant Flavors with Breathtaking Ease" by Rozanne Gold

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Photo by Quentin Bacon
When creating new recipes most inexperienced cooks assume they will eventually hit the jackpot if they just continue to add a pinch of this and a teaspoon of that—a routine that confuses an endless stream of ingredients with originality. The final result may taste okay, but the flavors are usually muddled and the list of ingredients far too lengthy to ever tempt you into making it again. It takes a talented chef with an imaginative yet discriminating palate to understand that less is indeed more. Enter Rozanne Gold.

In Radically Simple: Brilliant Flavors with Breathtaking Ease, Gold once again delivers the goods. If you're not familiar with her work, suffice it to say that Rozanne Gold was a minimalist cook before it was cool.

Years ago I became happily addicted to an earlier book, Little Meals, followed by her ingenious series of 1-2-3 cookbooks, in which she manages to coax exciting flavors out of a mere 3 ingredients. Fortunately for us old habits die hard, as Gold continues on the path of pared-down ingredient lists in Radically Simple. Even though the author is no longer bound by her self-inflicted confines of 3 ingredients, you are still guaranteed a minuscule mise en place for each of the 325 recipes in this book.

Ms. Gold began her career at the age of 23 as the first chef to New York Mayor Ed Koch. Since those early days she has cooked at and developed recipes for some of New York's finest restaurants. She is also a four-time winner of the prestigious James Beard Award and winner of the IACP/Julia Child Cookbook Award….so the brilliance of her recipes is no accident.

I love a good brunch, and Gold devotes an entire chapter to the subject with eye-openers that run the gamut from Runny Eggs on Creamy Scallion-Bacon Grits to Peanut Butter-Granola Bruschetta. The 10-Minute Salads chapter is nothing short of inspirational, with innovative combinations like Beets with Balsamic Syrup, Mint & Walnuts; Warm Wild Mushrooms on Hummus; and Grapefruit, Date & Arugula Salad with Parmesan Shards. Other traditional meal components rightfully get their own chapters, featuring recipes like Parsnip-Apple Soup with "Bacon Candy;" Linguine with Zucchini, Lemon Zest & Basil; A Radically Simple Chicken Parmigiana; Sticky Country Ribs with Orange, Molasses & Vinegar; Sheet-Pan Spinach; and Rhubarb & Candied Ginger Compote with Coconut Sorbet.

Her brilliant One-Ingredient Eggnog "Crème Anglaise" recipe (see recipe here) left me slapping my forehead, wondering why I had never thought of it before (and annoyed that I'm going to have to wait another 9 months before eggnog is available in grocery stores).

I should also note that Gold has a chef's eye for appealing presentation, and a delightful sense of whimsy that comes through in both her writing and the names of her recipes. In short, this book is a gem. And that is simply as radical as it gets.

The Little Black Dress Chocolate Cake

Recipe from Radically Simple: Brilliant Flavors with Breathtaking Ease by Rozanne Gold (Rodale Books, 2010)


Like the legendary little black dress, this dessert is something I can't live without, a mousse-y rich cake with a soft, oozing center (provided you don't overbake it). And like the L.B.D., you can accessorize it in myriad ways: with fresh raspberries placed side by side and glazed with melted currant jelly; with sweetened crème fraîche and fresh orange segments; or with my "crème anglaise" (see recipe here) or a scoop of Lemon-Buttermilk Ice Cream.

  • 10 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 5 extra-large eggs
  • 16 ounces top-quality semisweet chocolate, chopped
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, espresso powder, or orange zest

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan with parchment. Butter the sides of the pan with 1/2 tablespoon of the butter. Using an electric mixer, beat the eggs with a pinch of salt until tripled in volume, about 8 minutes. Melt the chocolate and the remaining 10 tablespoons butter slowly over low heat in a heavy medium saucepan; stir until smooth. Fold the chocolate mixture into the egg mixture with a flexible rubber spatula until completely incorporated. Add the vanilla. Pour into the pan. Bake 18 minutes: The center will be quite soft. Cool 30 minutes.

SERVES 8

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Learning about wine at your own pace

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Written by Foodie Husband   

ImageLiving an hour from the Northern California wine region (Sonoma & Napa Valley's) there's quite a focus on wine wherever one goes. Over time, my interest in wine has grown and I eagerly seek out new wine related books. When I pick up a new wine related book my excitement peaks in anticipation of learning more about wines around the world. Often though, I'm disappointed to find page after page of encyclopedic winery descriptions coupled with details on specific bottlings to purchase that are usually hard to find and very expensive. I rarely make it through the whole book without losing interest and I'm no closer to being able to effectively navigate a restaurant wine list or stroll through my local wine purveyor's with confidence.

Three recently published wine related books depart, however, from usual: The Sommelier Prep Course by Michael Gibson, Oldman's Brave New World of Wine by Mark Oldman, and Secrets of the Sommeliers by Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay. Each book is different from the other, but they all have one theme in common: they try to teach you to navigate the wild and twisty passages of the wine world rather than provide a list of vintages and chateaus to remember. There's no getting away from having to learn about regions, vineyards, chateaus and varietals, but these books tend to approach that learning from the top down so you can go into it as deeply as you're comfortable with at any point in time. I see myself going back to these books periodically to pick up more detail over time. 

But enough chit-chat let's get on to the books!

The Sommelier Prep Course by Michael Gibson (2010, Wiley)

Gibson's book is by far the most academic of the bunch and lays a wide foundation of all that is wine. There are introduction chapters on viticulture (growing grapes) and viniculture (making wine from grapes). The rest of the book is a dissection of grape varietals and the regions where they're grown. The detail gets deeper and deeper.  You can happily  just learn that there's red and white which may come from either the new world or old word. Or you can keep going and drill down into the various countries, how their wines laws are organized, what grapes are available, and the various regions and sub regions within. This is all presented extremely well and consistently throughout with charts, tables, and even some quizzes at the end of each chapter to keep you on your toes.

Oldman's Brave New World of Wine by Mark Oldman (2010, W. W. Norton & Company)

Next up is Oldman's book, which has a lighter and more airy feel to it. Oldman doesn't take the same structured approach as Gibson's book to wine discovery, but there are many similarities in their style and presentation. Oldman also provides plenty of charts and summaries to help you navigate wine. His premise is that different wines excel in different areas of the world and these wines aren't always correlated with price. He takes the reader on a world-wide trip where he points out various grapes and then discussions each grape and region, while providing  interesting back stories from someone that's been living this for many years. What's really great is the concise summary and "cheat sheet" after each grape. The summary includes a quick to read graph containing price and "adventure" level, other similar types of wines, and even a small section that has other wines to try if you liked the one from that section.  The cheat sheet is indispensable, with pronunciations, food pairing suggestions, and a small list of producers that Oldman likes.

Secrets of the Sommeliers by Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay (2010, Ten Speed Press) 

Finally in our trio of wine books, there's Parr and Mackay's book, which takes on a different tone. Where our first two books are a gentle stroll with a helping hand, here we're pushed running full speed ahead into the wine world. Parr and Mackay's book is verbose with many stories about the wine industry, wineries, famous sommeliers, tasting, pairing, serving, and even ordering wine. I found parts of the book fascinating--providing an inside look into how the professional wine industry works. There are some great tidbits in there too about uncovering great wines from specific areas, but that information is hidden in the text. There are also a few recommendations for specific wines, but I find that information much less useful that the general background that the book provides.

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Sweets for Your Sweetheart

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Written by foodie pam   
Looking for some sweets for your sweetheart this Valentine's Day?  Here are some yummy new cookbooks with plenty of  baked goodies no matter you're looking for cakes, cookies, chocolate or even boozy sweets this Valentine's Day…

 
The Green & Black's Organic Ultimate Chocolate Recipes by Micah Carr-Hill

Green & Black's is synonymous with delicious organic chocolate. Their latest cookbook, written by "Head Chocolate Taster" Micah Carr-Hill, is packed with equally delicious chocolate centric recipes perfect for Valentine's Day or really any day you have a chocolate craving.

Recipes to try: 2 viewable recipes from "The Green & Black’s Organic Ultimate Chocolate Recipes".



The Boozy Baker by Lucy Baker

 
As the whimsical name of this book suggests you'll find some interesting, booze centric recipes.  My favorite is the Dirty Girl Scout cookie based on the ever so fun (and tasty) Dirty Girl Scout drink.

Recipes to try: 2 viewable recipes from "The Boozy Baker".



Tea and Cookies by Rick Rodgers
 
What better way to relax away a cold winter afternoon than with a hot cup of tea and tasty cookies?  Rick Rodgers has paired classic cookie recipes (and some more adventurous ones as well) with both hot and cold teas to make tea and cookie lovers happy all year long.

Recipes to try: 3 viewable recipes from "Tea and Cookies".



Coffee and Cake by Rick Rodgers
 
If you prefer cake over cookies then Rick Rodgers still has a book for you with "Coffee and Cake". While the book title may hint at a breakfast theme the book spans all types of cakes ranging from coffee cakes to over the top dessert cakes.

Recipes to try: 2 viewable recipes from "Coffee and Cake".



The Art of the Chocolatier by Ewald Notter
 

Ewald Notter shares his glorious skills as a Chocolatier in this book aimed primarily at professionals, but it is also for serious home confectionary bakers.  Still, even if you're not game for making some of these masterpieces the amazing photos and details on chocolate work will keep you entertained and drooling.

Recipes to try: 2 viewable recipes from "The Art of the Chocolatier".


Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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More winter wonderland cookbooks and recipes

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Written by foodie pam   
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When the winter weather keeps you in the house then home cooked meals and adventures in cooking are great ways to spend the day.  Today's selection of recently published cookbooks have a bit of both with roast chicken, slow cooker dishes, homemade sausage and charcuterie and some simple one-pot meals thrown in for those who want quick meals no matter what time of year it is…
 
A Bird in the Oven and Then Some: 20 Ways to Roast the Perfect Chicken Plus 80 Delectable Recipes by Mindy Fox
 
Are you a roast chicken lover? Mindy Fox has assembled the book for you.  She starts with 20 diverse (and wonderful) roast chicken recipes.  Next, she provides recipes that incorporate roast chicken, in case you're looking for dishes that incorporate all the luscious roast chicken.  And to help even more she provides some great sides to make a wonderful roast chicken meal. Roast chicken lovers will be roasting the rest of the winter with this one-I know we have been…

Recipes to try: 2 viewable recipes from "A Bird in the Oven and Then Some".


Gourmet Vegetarian Slow Cooker: Simple and Sophisticated Meals from Around the World by Lynn Alley

When you think of warm home cooked meals without the fuss, a slow cooker is a great option. The twist here is that these are not your standard meat centric slow cooker recipes-they are vegetarian!  And they span the globe with recipes from India, Mexico, Greece and more. 

Recipes to try: 2 viewable recipes from "Gourmet Vegetarian Slow Cooker".

Mr. Sunday's Soups by Lorraine Wallace and Chris Wallace

Cold weather and soup go hand-in-hand so a soup book is a must for the winter.  Here Lorraine Wallace shares her family's soup recipes-the ones that nourish Chris Wallace (aka TV's Mr. Sunday) after a long day on the set.

Recipes to try: 2 viewable recipes from "Mr. Sunday’s Soups".

Sausage: Recipes for Making and Cooking with Homemade Sausage by Victoria Wise

If you're tired of the same old sausages from your local meat counter then making your own could be the solution.  Victoria Wise provides all the details with recipes for various types of sausages along with various recipes to use them setting the stage for some great culinary adventures this winter.

Recipes to try: 3 viewable recipes from "Sausage: Recipes for Making and Cooking with Homemade Sausage".

The Art of Charcuterie by The Culinary Institute of America

If making sausage sounds like child's play then you may want to kick the adventure up a notch with homemade charcuterie.  This Culinary Institute of America tome provides detailed directions on the preparation of items ranging from relatively simple sausage, to salami, to increasingly more adventurous forms of charcuterie.

Recipes to try: 2 viewable recipes from "The Art of Charcuterie".



Simply Ming One-Pot Meals by Ming Tsai and Arthur Boehm

And for those looking for simplicity enter Ming Tsai who focuses on cooking methods that use only one pot.  Ming delivers quick recipes that continue the "East Meets West" theme he's known for.

Recipes to try: 2 viewable recipes from "Simply Ming One-Pot Meals".

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Flour Child

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Written by Peggy Fallon   
List of viewable recipes from "Flour: Spectacular Recipes from Boston’s Flour Bakery + Cafe" by Joanne Chang

ImageYears ago I noticed that many of my tried and true dessert recipes came from articles written by a baker named Joanne Chang for Fine Cooking magazine. Since that time I have made a point of following her work whenever it appears in print. With the release of Flour: Spectacular Recipes from Boston's Flour Bakery + Café, written with Christie Matheson, Chang delivers her collected wisdom in one impressive volume.

Chang was raised in a traditional Chinese household where desserts were scarce. Growing up she developed a fascination with the standard kid-friendly sweets she tasted at friends' homes. This passion never waned, even as she earned a degree in applied mathematics from Harvard. After much soul-searching, she eventually traded in her slide rule for a whisk.

I get very cranky when bakers tweak a perfectly decent, classic recipe simply to make it their own. The change is often gratuitous and rarely an improvement on the original. Chang, however, has the innate ability to elevate the familiar to the sublime.

With the eye of a scientist and the heart of a baker, the author deftly mixes in numerous tips for success, including advance prep and storage. Chang's charming recipe headnotes also share fascinating stories, like how she learned the secrets to making her best-selling Vanilla Cream-Filled Doughnuts from a French pastry chef at Payard.

Once you've tasted Flour's Lemon Marshmallow Meringue Pie, Old-Fashioned Pineapple Upside-Down Cake, or Double-Chocolate Cookies, you'll probably decide to forgo your mom's trusted back-of-the-box recipes forever. Oreo's, Pop-Tarts, crispy rice treats, and yes, even iconic s'mores undergo mini-makeovers in Chang's kitchen. There's also a recipe for Homemade Dog Biscuits guaranteed to elicit drools from your favorite pooch.

Although this baking pro excels at homestyle desserts, she readily lends her sensibilities to a goodly number of more complex ones like Lemon-Raspberry Cake with Lemon Buttercream, Hazelnut-Almond Dacquoise, Brioche au Chocolat, and Sticky Sticky Buns—a recipe that triumphed over Bobby Flay's efforts in a spirited episode of Throwdown on the Food Network.

As many of us nibble our way through a Spartan diet this New Year, I suggest a special dispensation for Valentine's Day. I further recommend you celebrate this 24-hour moratorium on sensible eating by baking as many recipes as possible from this delightful book. It will be worth every single calorie.

Chocolate Cupcakes with Crispy Magic Frosting

Recipe from Flour: Spectacular Recipes from Boston’s Flour Bakery + Cafe by Joanne Chang (Chronicle Books, 2010)

Makes 12 cupcakes

In Amanda Hesser's lovely book Cooking for Mr. Latte, she shares an appealing recipe for chocolate cake that she calls Dump Cake. Okay, maybe the name isn't so appealing, but after years of making cakes that involve folding two-thirds of this into one-eighth of that and timing the mixer for one minute and fourteen seconds, I was taken with the idea of making a cake that simply requires dumping this into that and you're done. I've started with her recipe, added some cocoa, and removed some egg and liquid. The result is a wonderfully chocolaty, moist cupcake that is one of the most popular items at the bakery. Do what we do to best enjoy the cupcake: Pop off the top half of the cupcake, put the bottom half on top of the frosted top, and voilà! You have a cupcake sandwich that gives you cupcake and frosting in each bite. The Crispy Magic Frosting forms a delicate sugary crust as it rests and it's so easy, it's magic!

  • 2 ounces (56 grams) unsweetened chocolate, chopped
  • 1/4 cup (30 grams) Dutch-processed cocoa powder
  • 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
  • 1/2 cup (1 stick/114 grams) unsalted butter
  • 1/3 cup (80 grams) water
  • 1/2 cup (120 grams) milk
  • 1 egg
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 cup (140 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Crispy Magic Frosting

  • 2/3 cup (140 grams) granulated sugar
  • 2 egg whites (60 grams)
  • 1 1/2 cups (3 sticks/342 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 2-inch chunks
  • 1 2/3 cups (230 grams) confectioners' sugar
  • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 2 tablespoons milk
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla extract

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter and flour a standard 12-cup muffin tin, or line with paper liners.

In a small heatproof bowl, combine the chocolate and cocoa powder. In a small saucepan, heat the granulated sugar, butter, and water over medium-high heat, whisking occasionally, for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the butter is melted and the sugar is dissolved. Pour the hot butter-sugar mixture over the chocolate-cocoa mixture and whisk until the chocolate is completely melted and the mixture is homogeneous.

Whisk the milk, egg, egg yolk, and vanilla into the chocolate mixture until thoroughly combined.

In a bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt until well mixed. Dump the flour mixture on top of the chocolate mixture. Whisk until the dry ingredients are totally mixed into the chocolate mixture. Let the batter sit for at least 1 hour at room temperature, or transfer to an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. (This allows the liquid to be totally absorbed into the batter, so the batter thickens up a bit and isn't so soupy.)

Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin cups, dividing it evenly and filling the cups to the rim. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until the tops spring back when pressed with a fingertip. Let cool completely in the pan on a wire rack.

To make the frosting: While the cupcakes are cooling, in a small heatproof bowl, whisk together the granulated sugar and egg whites to make a thick slurry. Place the bowl over (not touching) simmering water in a saucepan and heat, whisking occasionally, for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the mixture is hot to the touch. It will thin out a bit as the sugar melts.

Remove from the heat and scrape the mixture into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whip attachment (or use a handheld mixer). Whip on medium-high speed for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the mixture becomes a light, white meringue and is cool to the touch. Turn down the speed to medium, add the butter, a few chunks at a time, and beat for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the butter is thoroughly incorporated. Add the confectioners' sugar, salt, milk, and vanilla and continue to beat on medium speed until the mixture is smooth and satiny. You should have about 3 1/2 cups. (Use immediately, or transfer to an airtight container and store at room temperature for up to 3 days, then beat with the stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment for a few minutes until smooth before using. Or, store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, then bring to room temperature and paddle for a few minutes until smooth before using.)

Remove the cupcakes from the muffin tin. Fit a pastry bag with a small round or star tip and fill the bag with the frosting, then pipe the frosting onto cupcakes. Or, spread the frosting on the cupcakes with an icing spatula.

The cupcakes taste best on the day they are baked, but they can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Gluten-Free Girl & The Chef

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Written by Heather Jones   
List of viewable recipes from "Gluten-Free Girl and the Chef" by Shauna James Ahern and Daniel Ahern

ImageIf you are a food blog reader then I have no doubt that you are familiar with Gluten-Free Girl and The Chef (formerly Gluten-Free Girl).  Author and Blogger Shauna James Ahern is considered a notable authority on Gluten-Free cuisine after having battled for years with poor health that she eventually found to be caused by celiac disease.  She began blogging about her journey and through it created a wonderful community of readers, many who were battling celiac disease. All her readers always appreciate her quick wit and delicious recipes. 

I haven’t always been a regular reader of Shauna's blog, but when my oldest daughter was diagnosed with Autism 2½ years ago I decided to put her on a gluten-free diet. Shauna’s blog was one of the first I turned to for culinary inspiration. 

Fast forward to the current day and Shauna James Ahern, along with her chef-husband Daniel Ahern, is continuing her story with a cookbook.  Not only does this book contain 100 gluten free recipes that will appeal to all food lovers, but the Aherns have also weaved within the pages their own love story. And we all know that the best meals are ones that have that very special added ingredient, love.  Most of the recipes are so easy they take the fear out of cooking Gluten-Free. My family’s current favorite is the pasta with anchovies, lemon, and olives (see recipe below).

Pasta with Anchovies, Lemon and Olives

Recipe from Gluten-Free Girl and the Chef by Shauna James Ahern and Daniel Ahern (Wiley, 2010)

People are afraid of anchovies. They remember super-fishy bites from Caesar salads or bad chain pizza. But eating a good anchovy is a different experience than you imagine. Anchovies are distinctively fishy, but the texture is more like a meat than a fish. They are as salty as the sea, but more like the ocean water around ports. This is the food of a working man in a cloth cap taking a lunch break.

Anchovies are perfect for making a pasta dish, because the oil they are packed in helps to flavor the sauce. You won't be eating chunks of fish, because the anchovies will melt away in the hot pasta. You'll just have that indelible taste of the Mediterranean, indolent summer warmed by the sun.

Feeds 4

  • 1 pound uncooked fresh gluten-free fettuccine  or 1 pound dried gluten-free fettucine
  • 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 4 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 1 cup pitted mixed Greek olives, roughly chopped
  • 2 ounces anchovies, chopped, oil reserved
  • 1/4 cup capers
  • 1 teaspoon cracked black pepper
  • 1/4 cup dry white wine
  • 2 lemons, zest grated and juiced
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted
  • 1 tablespoon chiffonade fresh sorrel or basil

Cooking the pasta

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Toss in the pasta. Cook until the pasta is slightly al dente, about 5 minutes. Drain the pasta well, then toss with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Set aside.

Sauteing the vegetables

Set a large sauté pan over medium heat. Pour in the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the shallots and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until the shallots are softened and translucent, 2 to 3 minutes.

Making the sauce

Toss in the olives, anchovies, and reserved anchovy oil and stir. After a moment, add the capers and pepper to the pan and cook, stirring, until everything releases its smells, 1 to 2 minutes.

Pour in the wine to deglaze the pan, scraping the goodness from the bottom. Squeeze in the lemon juice and simmer until the liquid is reduced by about a third of its volume, about 1 minute. Swirl in the butter, which will emulsify the sauce.

Tossing with the pasta

Add the pasta to the sauce. Toss with tongs until the pasta is hot and coated with the sauce. Remove from the heat. Add the pine nuts, lemon zest, and sorrel and stir just a bit before serving.

Variations

If you cannot eat dairy, you can substitute a nondairy spread for the butter. Any combination of olives will do well. 

Suggestions

This sauce is also good with grilled or roasted chicken, smoked salmon, or seared prawns.

 

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Winter wonderland of cookbooks

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Written by foodie pam   

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January brings the peak of down-right cold winter weather which makes the perfect setting for warming up the kitchen with a hot oven that is baking home cooked meals.  Whether you've resolved to spend 2011 cooking with more local ingredients, cooking more homemade food, cooking more healthy food, or simply cooking more, we're sure you'll find our latest feature on recently published cookbooks a great source for recipes to try.  

Without further ado here are some recently published cookbooks that fit well with January cooking!

Falling Off the Bone by Jean Anderson

This book epitomizes my vision of winter-time cooking - stews, roasts and soups.  The recipes are also busy lifestyle friendly using lots of readily available ingredients.  In fact, in many cases prepared ingredients such as packages of sliced mushrooms are listed if you're inclined to go that route.  The book is divided into sections on beef, veal, lamb and pork with a mixture of soups, roasts, stews and braises that should keep your winter kitchen warm, inviting and aromatic.

Recipes to try: 2 viewable recipes from "Falling Off the Bone".



My Calabria by Rosetta Costantino and Janet Fletcher

Rosetta Costantino shares the regional food of Calabria (a region of Southern Italy that doesn't get much press).  This heartfelt book is packed with recipes close to Rosetta's heart.  These are recipes that generations of Calabrian Grandmothers prepared for their families and recipes that your family will love just as much.  High on do it yourself with lots of homemade pasta, canned vegetables and local ingredients (Rosetta now lives in Oakland, California) My Calabria has lots to love.  Many of the recipes have a familiar Italian feel with a bit of a twist that you will quickly learn is Calabria at its best!

Recipes to try: 3 viewable recipes from "My Calabria".



Italian Home Cooking by Julia della Croce

Italian food is diverse, which means each of us has different expectations when someone says "Let's have Italian".  If comfort food comes to mind for you then Italian Home Cooking has your kind of Italian recipes.  Subtitled "recipes to comfort the soul", these hearty dishes (think Tuscan Bean Soup, Spaghetti with Sauteed Radicchio and Tart Chicken Ala Cacciatora) hit the mark.  The recipes are also simple and quick to prepare.

Recipes to try: 2 viewable recipes from "Italian Home Cooking".



The Essential Diabetes Cookbook by Antony Thompson

We often get asked about recipes for Diabetics.  Well here's one that provides Diabetic friendly recipes with the flair of world-wide dishes showing that Diabetes doesn't mean bland or boring eating.  And since these recipes are healthy and flavorful - everyone can benefit from giving them a try.

Recipes to try: 2 viewable recipes from "The Essential Diabetes Cookbook".



Fresh from the Market: Seasonal Cooking with Laurent Tourondel by Laurent Tourondel


This French-born chef is the name behind the popular BLT restaurants (Bistro Laurent Tourendel); and oversees the operation of 10 other restaurants around the world. This book is his love letter to seasonal, market-driven cooking, all enhanced with gorgeous photos by Quentin Bacon. Whether recreating simple recipes enjoyed during his childhood, or more elaborate dishes served at his restaurants, the common thread is the use of local ingredients. Although many of the recipes call for specific brands that will not be available to all, locavores should have no trouble finding comparable products in their own locales. Tourondel's simple way with great ingredients inspires the reader to celebrate local artisans everywhere. - picked by Peggy Fallon

Recipes to try: 2 viewable recipes from "Fresh from the Market: Seasonal Cooking with Laurent Tourondel".

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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