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Rising to the Occasion

A few years ago I was bit by the bread-baking bug. While I own several stellar bread-focused cookbooks, I can't help myself from pouring over every new release--always searching for ways to improve my technique, or for unique bread...

Wine Country Cheese Explorations

Sonoma County is well known for wine and has great restaurants, but did you know it has cheese treasures? The rolling hills and mild climate are also ideal for...

Foodie Fodder

COOKBOOK SPOTLIGHTS

An enormous number of cookbooks are published each year making it extremely difficult to decide which cookbooks to welcome into our kitchens. To help make that process easier, Project Foodie Cookbook Spotlights present and describe interesting cookbooks along with example recipes from those cookbooks.

Eating Local: The Cookbook Inspired by America’s Farmers

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Written by Heather Jones   

Image"Eating Local" is a phrase that's come to define the way a whole new generation of Farmers, Chefs, Foodies, Moms, and Average Joes are eating. 

The funny thing is there was a time when "Eating Local" was the norm, before the days of big agribusiness.  But it would seem that America is starting to see the error of her ways and going back to what once worked before: purchasing milk from dairy farms within a 100 mile radius, starting a victory garden, or, at the very least, soliciting the local farmers' markets and taking the time to get to know the farmer who grows your favorite Brandywine Tomatoes.  "Eating Local" is being celebrated in the food community in a way that I've never seen with any other food trend, and maybe that's because at heart it really isn't a trend but a way of life. 

Premier Kitchen Retailer Sur La Table and James Beard Award winning author Janet Fletcher have teamed up to write "Eating Local: The Cookbook Inspired by America's Farmers".  This book is truly a love letter to the eating local movement.  It is packed with delicious seasonal recipes, stunning photography, and stories about today's farmers -- people who are working hard to bring you the very best in local ingredients.  In addition there are tips for the "Urban Homesteader", those who grow tomatoes on fire escapes instead of in backyards and front lawns.  It also has a guide for storing all that fresh produce that you invariably buy too much off at the farmers' markets when in season. 

The recipe I chose to feature today is one that shows you just how satisfying a simple meal can be when you're using the freshest ingredients possible.  Grilled Romaine with a Six-Minute Farm Egg (see recipe below) is the kind of meal I would prepare for myself after a long day at the office or an even longer day at the computer when I don't feel like spending lots of time in the kitchen.  Initially I would have never thought of grilling romaine, the first thing that comes to mind is soggy lettuce, but romaine is one salad green that can stand up to the heat while still retaining its texture and flavor.  I have a real weakness for farm fresh eggs, (so much that I'm trying to convince my husband to let me get a few backyard chickens) and they prove themselves to be the perfect accompaniment for this deconstructed Caesar salad minus the anchovies.  This dish would also be great for impromptu guests, trust me they will be pleasantly surprised -- romaine has never looked so good or tasted so delicious.   

Grilled Romaine with a Six-Minute Farm Egg    

From Eating Local: The Cookbook Inspired by America's Farmers by Sur La Table and Janet Fletcher, Andrews McMeel Publishing 2010.

Serves 4

Why six minutes? Because that timing produces a picture-perfect boiled egg, with a firm white and a creamy, brilliant yellow yolk. If you have never grilled romaine hearts, a delightful surprise awaits. Thanks to their natural sugar, they color up beautifully on the grill. Cook them until they hover on the brink between tender and crisp. Shower with Parmigiano Reggiano and accompany with lemon wedges and your impeccable eggs. Serve as a first course or side dish for a grilled T-bone steak.

  • 4 large eggs, at room temperature
  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 4 hearts of romaine, each 5 to 6 ounces, halved lengthwise with the core attached
  • Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Chunk of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, for grating
  • 4 lemon wedges


Prepare a moderate charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill to medium (375ºF)

Put the eggs in a saucepan with water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat, then immediately cover and set aside for 6 minutes exactly. Drain and quickly run under cold running water until cool, then peel and set aside.

Put the olive oil on a tray or platter. Turn the romaine hearts in the oil to coat them all over. Season with salt.

Place the romaine hearts directly over the coals or gas flame. Cook, turning as needed, until they are lightly browned on both sides, crisp in spots, and tender yet still a touch crunchy, 5 to 7 minutes.

Transfer the romaine hearts to a serving platter or individual plates. Grind some pepper over the romaine, then grate Parmigiano Reggiano over them, using as much as you like. Cut the eggs in half and place them alongside the romaine. Sprinkle a little salt on the eggs. Accompany with the lemon wedges. Serve immediately.

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Entertain Like a Pro

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Written by Peggy Fallon   

ImageEver wonder how Hollywood celebrities entertain? They usually hire Denise Vivaldo. From intimate dinners at home to the Governor's Ball at the Academy Awards, she's done it all. And now she has written The Entertaining Encyclopedia.

Denise is a celebrity in her own right: a classically trained chef; professional recipe developer; award-winning author of 5 cookbooks; UCLA Culinary Program professor; accomplished food stylist; and renowned caterer for 20+ years. Who could be better qualified to write about entertaining?

The book features 25 menus as diverse as a Neighborhood Block Party; Garden Brunch; Barcelona Bash; and Grecian Get-Together. There are also over 200 clearly written, tried-and-true recipes from the author's private files. None of them require daunting skills or impossible-to-find ingredients, yet each has enough pizazz to make a lasting impression. (You don't need to be rich or famous to enjoy Prosciutto-Wrapped Mango; Seared Ahi Tuna Salad; Couscous with Raisins and Caramelized Onions; or Death-by-Chocolate Cookies.) As an added bonus for those who entertain larger groups, each recipe indicates how many times it can be multiplied successfully.

The first half of the book is loaded with tips. Seriously. The amount of practical information is staggering—things like choosing the perfect menu; creating ambiance; figuring out how much food and drink you'll need; choosing the right glass for the right beverage, and just about every other dilemma a host might encounter. The secrets to success are all here—even ones you may have never considered.

The most refreshing surprise is that the book doesn't read like some dry instructional manual. Slip in-between the covers with Denise and you'll learn about her surprise encounter with Elizabeth Taylor, and how she met Frank Sinatra—twice.

There are certainly flashier books on the subject of entertaining—glossy coffee table tomes with more style than substance—but none contain the invaluable minutiae this author has crammed into less than 500 pages. My personal inclination is to say this book is a necessary resource for anyone who ever answers the doorbell; but suffice it to say that the knowledge contained within these pages is truly encyclopedic.

Roasted Chicken Chopped Salad with Blue Cheese Vinaigrette

From The Entertaining Encyclopedia: Essential Tips for Hosting the Perfect Party  by Denise Vivaldo, Robert Rose 2009.

SERVES 6 or can be multiplied up to 4 times

There's so much variety and potential in this chopped salad, and it's an easy one to serve on a picnic blanket. Take liberties with the ingredients and personalize it however you please. Buy a roasted chicken at your grocery store to make this recipe quicker.

Make Ahead: Chopped salads can be prepped a day in advance if you store the ingredients separately in the refrigerator.

  • 1 head romaine lettuce, chopped   
  • 6 green onions, sliced   
  • 3 tomatoes, diced   
  • 1 large carrot, diced   
  • 1 red bell pepper, finely chopped   
  • 1 yellow bell pepper, finely chopped   
  • 1 cucumber, peeled and diced   
  • 1 can (14 to 19 oz/398 to 540 mL) chickpeas, drained and rinsed
  • 1 lb fresh mozzarella cheese, diced   
  • 1 lb bacon, cooked crisp and crumbled   
  • 2 cups diced roasted chicken   
  • 1/2 cup sliced cooked or drained canned red beets   
  • 3/4 cup Blue Cheese Vinaigrette (see recipe below)   


Divide romaine among serving plates. Arrange green onions, tomatoes, carrot, red pepper, yellow pepper, cucumber, chickpeas, mozzarella, bacon, chicken and beets attractively on top. Serve with dressing on the side.

Easy Extras: This is the place to exercise your imagination. Add any ingredients that strike your fancy, such as artichoke hearts, corn kernels, edamame or other beans, almonds, pecans or sunflower seeds.

Blue Cheese Vinaigrette

From The Entertaining Encyclopedia: Essential Tips for Hosting the Perfect Party  by Denise Vivaldo, Robert Rose 2009.

MAKES 1 CUP (250 ML) or can be multiplied up to 4 times

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese   
1/4 cup champagne vinegar or seasoned rice vinegar
2 tsp Dijon mustard
1/4 tsp salt
Pinch freshly ground black pepper

In a food processor or blender, pulse oil, blue cheese, vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper until creamy.

Variation: The blue cheese can be replaced with feta, Gorgonzola or cream cheese.

Place servings of dressing in small containers with lids, such as Mason jars or disposable plastic condiment cups, and pack them with the salads so the dressing won't make the salad go to mush before you're ready to serve it.

Make Ahead: This dressing can be made up to 3 days in advance if refrigerated in an airtight container.

Spiced Lamb Kebabs

ImageFrom The Entertaining Encyclopedia: Essential Tips for Hosting the Perfect Party  by Denise Vivaldo, Robert Rose 2009.

SERVES 6 or can be multiplied up to 4 times

The addition of cinnamon gives this dish a wonderfully exotic taste.

Tips: Kebabs can be served as sandwiches with flatbread.

If you prefer your lamb cooked to medium, broil or grill for 7 to  8 minutes; medium-well for 9 to 10 minutes; well for  11 to 12 minutes.

Twelve 12-inch (30 cm) metal or wooden skewers
2 1/2 lb boneless leg of lamb   
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tsp ground cumin   
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
Pinch cayenne pepper
1 red onion, cut into large pieces   

1. Trim fat from lamb and cut into 1 1/2-inch (4 cm) cubes.

2. In a sealable plastic bag, combine oil, cumin, black pepper, cinnamon and cayenne. Add lamb, seal and toss to coat. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight, shaking bag occasionally to redistribute marinade.

3. Preheat broiler, or preheat barbecue grill to medium-high. If using wooden skewers, soak them in water for 10 minutes.

4. Separate onion into pieces of 2 to 3 layers. Remove lamb from marinade, discarding marinade. Thread lamb and onion onto skewers, with 3 slices of onion between each piece of lamb. If broiling, place on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Broil or grill for 5 to 6 minutes, turning to sear all sides, until medium-rare, or until desired doneness.

Easy Extras: Add other vegetables with the onions: cubes of zucchini, sliced bell peppers or small pieces of eggplant would work well. Salt eggplant generously, drain for at least 1 hour and rinse well before using.
 

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Cider Beans, Wild Greens, and Dandelion Jelly

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Written by Heather Jones   

ImageDo you know the phrase "Everything Old is New again".  Well when it comes to food, sometimes that's exactly how I feel. 

Joan Aller's cookbook Cider Beans, Wild Greens, and Dandelion Jelly: Recipes from Southern Appalachia reminds me of the way my grandparents cooked when I was coming up. Although neither of my grandparents were from the Southern Appalachia region, the food in this book is quite similar to the food of the coastal Carolina regions they are from. 
Southern cuisine is quite in vogue at the moment, but if you ask me it should have always been.  While I used to be embarrassed by the grilled Okra, Corn Pone, and Catfish of my youth - I now wish I had paid more attention in the kitchen! It's not that the food I grew up on wasn't delicious because believe me it was.  It's just that like many kids I wanted to eat what my friends were eating:  Grilled Cheese with Tomato soup out of the infamous red and white can, not Black eyed Pea stew or Smothered Cabbage with white rice. What was I thinking?  I'm the one who had it good. 

One of my favorite childhood meals, whose roots are quite Southern, is fried catfish with grits.  Grits, often referred to as the polenta of the south, are usually coarse ground and made from white cornmeal instead of yellow. It's a perfect accompaniment to any meal; breakfast, brunch, or dinner. 

Grits have certainly gotten a culinary makeover over the years and one dish that is loved by everyone even those who say they don't like grits is the now classic Shrimp and Grits (see recipe below), plump well seasoned shrimp on a bed of creamy buttery grits…I think I may need some right now and I think you do too.

So, if you're looking for a nice introduction to Southern cuisine, or Southern Appalachia cuisine in particular, with all the history and folklore that goes along with it, then this book is for you. 

Shrimp and Grits

From Cider Beans, Wild Greens, and Dandelion Jelly: Recipes from Southern Appalachia by Joan E. Aller (Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2010).

Serves 2 to 4

The Inn at Merridun in Union, South Carolina, is an antebellum mansion listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Situated in the gently rolling upstate region of South Carolina, it is surrounded by shady oaks and century-old magnolias. It was once known as Keenan Plantation, and today the Georgian house is one of the most regal homes in Union. This recipe from the inn combines two southern favorites-shrimp and grits.

  • 8 ounces peeled, deveined shrimp
  • 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • Salt and cayenne pepper, or Old Bay seasoning
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil, butter, or bacon grease
  • ½ small yellow onion, finely chopped
  • ¼ cup chopped bell pepper (green, red, or yellow)
  • ¼ cup white wine
  • 2 to 4 cups cooked creamy grits

In a bowl, sprinkle the shrimp with the lemon juice and seasonings; set aside.

Heat the oil in a medium skillet over medium heat and sauté the onion and bell pepper until the onion begins to turn transparent, 7 to 10 minutes. Add the shrimp to the skillet and sauté for about 2 minutes, or until the shrimp turns pink.

Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

Add the wine to the skillet and deglaze the pan, stirring to scrape up any browned bits. Return the shrimp mixture to the skillet and heat just until warm. Serve immediately over the hot grits.

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Is Your Food Voluptuous?

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Written by Heather Jones   

ImageMove over Nigella there's another sexy, British Domestic Goddess in town, although we all know there's plenty room on Food TV for everyone.  Allow me re-introduce you to Sophie Dahl.  Why a re-introduction you wonder?  Well, for those former wanna-be fashionista's like myself I remember when Ms. Dahl graced the pages of Vogue back in the 90's and there was also that rumored involvement with a certain Rolling Stone…but back to the Food.  Ms. Dahl who is also the granddaughter of author Roald Dahl has traded her Dior for an Aga and has joined the ranks of celebutantes that are eager to share their love of food and cooking. 

In her first cookbook, "Miss Dahl's Voluptuous Delights", Sophie shares with us not only some of her fondest food memories, but also a lovely assortment of  "voluptuous" recipes that offer something for everyone regardless of the season, mood, or diet.  The dishes aren't overly complicated works of art or ones that fall under a certain calorie count. They are simply the kind you would make on any given week night, using whatever you have on hand, or what you may have just picked up from the local market.  These are dishes that are perfect for when friends drop by or for when you're dining alone.

What I've enjoyed most about this book is how every dish has a great story that goes along with it.  Think about some of your favorite recipes, I'm sure you too have an interesting story about how you learned to cook it or when you first tasted it.  Hmmm…I suppose it's those stories and memories that can make our food seem voluptuous. 

I love a dish that takes a single ingredient and showcases its natural flavor to perfection. Sophie's Avocado Soup (see recipe below) does just that. I've had Avocado soups before, but this soup is special. I can't seem to place exactly what it is though; maybe it's the apple, the red pepper flakes, or even the lime. Whatever it is, it has made these 90 degree days of summer just a little bit cooler.

In addition to the release of her first book Sophie Dahl also has a cooking show on British Television. We've included a video clip for you to watch of her TV Show.  I have no doubt it will just be a matter of time before Ms. Dahl brings her Voluptuous Delights to American television. 

Avocado Soup

From Miss Dahl's Voluptuous Delights by Sophie Dahl. William Morrow Cookbooks (2010).

Yet another easy blendery thing. Perhaps this book should be renamed "on a bender with Miss Dahl's blender" . . . maybe not. Peel the avocados and remove the pits. Into the blender go the apple, avocados, yogurt, chile flakes and lime juice. Warm the stock to release the flavor. Add the stock to the blender and purée until the soup is a rich, smooth green velvet. Put it in the fridge for a few hours and add some chopped cilantro on top of each bowl when ready to serve.

SERVES 2

  • 2 ripe avocados
  • 1 apple, cored, peeled and sliced into chunks
  • 1 cup of plain yogurt
  • (full-fat works better here)
  • 1 teaspoon of dried red
  • chile flakes
  • Juice from ½ a lime
  • 2 cups of chicken or vegetable stock
  • Fresh chopped cilantro, to garnish

 

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Farmers' Market Desserts

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Written by foodie pam   

ImageSummer is the high season for fresh fruit and vegetables; so much so that I often find the fruit too plentiful.  It's probably my own fault.  When I go to the farmers' market and sample all those fruits I'm lured in by their wonderful fresh-picked flavor and I buy more than I should.  Sometimes so much extra that I really don't even need to go to the farmers' market again the next week.

While I'm not sure my particular predicament was the motivation, but Jennie Schacht's Farmers' Market Desserts is a great source for uses of my extra fruit. 

Take blueberries, which are at their peak right now here in California.  The blueberry stand at my market was overflowing with blueberries this week.  While I could have bought just a half-pint to eat with my cereal for breakfast it seemed a waste to not get more, especially since they are at their peak for such a short time each year.  But I didn't want to make the old-standby blueberry muffins - don't get me wrong I love blueberry muffins but its not really my favorite choice for fresh blueberries.  Instead, Jennie offers a great parfait that uses the blueberries whole. It also uses rhubarb, something I don't eat nearly as often as I'd like to, but since rhubarb isn't always available at the same time as blueberries Jennie suggests strawberries or raspberries as great alternatives.

That's just one example but I'm sure you get the idea.  Farmers' Market Desserts lets me enjoy the best fruit of summer in great dishes while also introducing new fruits you might not normally try out. 

And as Jennie says, if the blueberries are still in-season for you on July 4th the parfait has the perfect Red, White and Blue theme!

Rhubarb, Blueberry & Cream Parfait

Farmers' Market Desserts by Jennie Schacht. Chronicle Books (2010).
This is the perfect red, white, and blueberry dessert to celebrate the Fourth of July, or the entire blueberry-rhubarb season, which runs from about May to July. Depending on your location, Independence Day should hit close to the end of the blueberry season, just in time for a final celebration of that bright berry's bursting fireworks of flavor.

The crunchy topping is a great complement to the smooth cream and rhubarb. It is also a delicious topping for ice cream and fresh fruit. Alternatively, you can use granola or crumble your favorite gingersnaps over the parfaits. The crunchy topping and rhubarb can be prepared in advance for a quick-fix dessert.

Season to Taste: Substitute strawberries or raspberries for the rhubarb, reducing the sugar to 1/4 cup. Or, substitute blackberries or olallieberries for the blueberries.

Makes 4 servings

Rhubarb Sauce

  • 1/2 cup granulated sugar
  • 2 tablespoons water
  • 1 pound rhubarb (about 4 medium to large stalks), leaves discarded and stalks cut into 1/2-inch pieces
  • Small pinch of kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice

Crunch Topping

  • 1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 cup old-fashioned rolled oats
  • 1/3 cup gently packed light brown sugar
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger
  • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
  • 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cold, cut into 8 pieces
  • 1/2 cup sliced almonds

Filling

  • 1/2 cup heavy cream
  • 1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
  • 2 teaspoons granulated sugar
  • 1 pint (2 cups) blueberries

To make the sauce, stir together the sugar and water in a nonreactive saucepan over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Add the rhubarb and stir to coat with the sugar syrup. Reduce the heat to a slow simmer, cover, and cook until the fruit is quite soft, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat. Process until smooth using an immersion blender or standard blender, or mash and stir with a fork. Stir in the salt and lime juice, then taste and adjust with sugar or lime, if needed. (It will taste sweeter chilled than hot.) Let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate in a covered container until cold, at least 2 hours or up to 2 days.

To make the topping, stir together the flour, oats, brown sugar, ginger, and salt in a bowl. Sprinkle the vanilla evenly over the mixture, then scatter the butter over the mixture. Using your fingertips, rub in the butter until the mixture looks like wet, clumpy sand. Scatter the almonds over the top and mix them in with your fingers. Cover and refrigerate the topping for 30 minutes.

While the topping chills, preheat the oven to 375oF, with a rack near the center. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper.

Use your fingers to crumble the topping mixture onto the baking sheet. It should look roughly like granola, with a few larger clumps. Bake until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes, stirring and turning with a spatula once or twice during baking. Let cool completely before using. (It will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.)

To serve, using a chilled bowl and beaters, whip together the cream, crème fraîche, and sugar until the mixture holds medium-firm peaks.

Layer the cream, rhubarb, crunch topping, and berries in 4 parfait glasses. As a guide-without worrying about using exact quantities-divide one-third of the cream among the 4 glasses. Layer half of the rhubarb sauce over the cream. Sprinkle about 1 tablespoon of the topping into each glass. Then, sprinkle one-third of the berries over the topping in the 4 glasses. Repeat the layers, using half of the remaining cream, all of the remaining rhubarb, about 1 tablespoon of crunch topping for each glass, and half of the remaining berries. Top the parfaits evenly with the remaining cream, and then sprinkle evenly with the remaining berries. Finally, sprinkle lightly with some crunch topping. (You will have some crunch topping remaining.)

Serve immediately, or cover tightly and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. The crunch will soften but will still add great flavor and texture.

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Berrilicious and the Perfect Finish

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Written by foodie pam   

ImageHow do you know when you've found a great dessert?  For me, it's when I want to make the dessert again (and again), almost immediately after having devoured what I made the first time.

Thanks to Bill Yosses, I've found several such recipes in his "The Perfect Finish".  While I don't think any recipe can really be perfect these are certainly perfect ways to finish a meal.

It's berry season right now and thanks to Bill Yosses I'll be enjoying my berries in luscious, berrilicious desserts as long as they remain in season.  My two favorites are the Blueberry Angel Muffins and the Blackberry Buttermilk Bundt Cake (recipes below), although he's also got a great looking strawberry cake.   

And before you say blueberry muffins? How boring?  Think again -- these aren't your standard blueberry muffins by any stretch of the imagination.  They are actually little tiny angel food cakes packed with blueberries!  If you have blueberries on hand, or if you want to use up some extra egg whites (from say some pasta making like I did), this is the perfect choice.

ImageAs great as the blueberry muffins are the Blackberry Butermilk Bundt Cake really stole my heart and is the dish I've made again and again.  The cake is topped with an orange glaze, which combined with the buttermilk, makes for a super moist and tasty cake.  Blackberries are in season in California for several more weeks so I'm positive this cake will serve as the Perfect Finish to more of my summer meals.

I can't wait to try all the other desserts in The Perfect Finish - once I get done with my Blackberry Buttermilk Bundt Cake fetish that is…

Blackberry Buttermilk Bundt with Orange Glaze

From The Perfect Finish by Bill Yosses and Melissa Clark. W.W. Norton & Company (2010).

When working at Bouley Restaurant we were always thrilled to find a celebrity looking over our shoulder in the kitchen. It was just the nature of the place, I guess, and the nature of the irrepressible maître d', Dominique Simon, who delighted in telling the well-known celebrity that because of their elevated status they would be "allowed" into the kitchen. Most paid a visit to the kitchen, if only to stretch their legs between courses. One person in particular stands out, and I suppose I can talk about it now that it is more than ten years ago. The great actor Liam Neeson said something I will always remember: "I feel like my craft is like whittling wood, I want to remove all the excess until I find the perfect and smallest place to be, without anything extra." I think anyone who loves their work can relate to this, and I am always trying to find that perfect, unadorned dessert item, the one that has all it needs and nothing more, nothing less. One of the reasons I love the Blackberry Buttermilk Bundt is that it fits that bill, it has the taste of blackberries, a sweet and semiwild flavor, and the sour note of buttermilk to counteract the sugar, and finally the glaze to give it just a little edge. I put "buttermilk" in the title of this dessert because it does so much to change the flavor radically, and its sour kick is what sets this soft-textured yellow cake apart. The buttermilk tang, combined with the sweetness of the berries and richness of the butter, is what makes you want to reach for the next piece. Balance is the most important part of any dessert, or savory dish for that matter, and the blackberry/buttermilk duet here is in perfect harmony. Because of its simplicity, this cake is a good choice for a brunch.

Chef's Note: I like to use a wooden spoon to fold berries into cake batter. The rough surface moves the fruit more efficiently than the smooth surface of a rubber spatula, incorporating the berries without crushing them.

Makes 1 bundt cake to serve 8 to 10

Special Equipment: 2-Quart Bundt pan, electric mixer, cake tester, skewer

  • 2 2/3 cups all-purpose flour (10.5 ounces, 300 grams)
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder (14.7 grams)
  • ½ teaspoon salt (3.35 grams)
  • ½ teaspoon baking soda (2.5 grams)
  • ½ pound unsalted butter (2 sticks), softened (8 ounces, 227 grams), plus additional for the pan
  • 1¾ cups sugar (12.25 ounces, 350 grams)
  • 4 large eggs (6.8 ounces, 193 grams), at room temperature
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract (8 grams)
  • ½ cup buttermilk (4.25 ounce, 121 grams)
  • 2 pints blackberries (16 ounces, 454 grams)

Orange Glaze

  • ½ cup freshly squeezed orange juice (from about 1 medium orange) (4.25 ounces, 121 grams)
  • ½ cup confectioners' sugar (2 ounces, 57 grams)

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 2-quart anti-adhesive Bundt pan with some butter, then spray lightly with nonstick cooking spray. You don't want this cake to stick! The new anti-adhesive cake pans prevent the bottom of the cake from sticking to the pan.

2. In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda.

3. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium-high speed until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs one at a time until incorporated. Beat in the vanilla. Reduce the speed to low and mix in half the flour mixture. Mix in the buttermilk, then the remaining flour mixture. Using a wooden spoon, gently fold in the blackberries.

4. Pour the batter into the prepared Bundt pan. Bake the cake until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean, about 1 hour. Let the cake cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then invert onto the serving platter.

For the Glaze

1. While the cake cools, combine the orange juice and sugar in a small saucepan and simmer over low heat until the sugar is dissolved.

2. Using a skewer or long thin knife, prick deep holes all over the surface of the cake. Pour half the glaze over the cake, letting it seep into the holes. Let the cake cool for 20 minutes more. Pour the remaining glaze over the cake and let set for 10 minutes. Slice and serve.

Blueberry Angel Muffins

From The Perfect Finish by Bill Yosses and Melissa Clark. W.W. Norton & Company (2010).

These muffins have so much going for them. Not only do they happen to be fat free, they're also a cake, small and fruit filled. Thus they allow you to tap into the psychic pleasure of eating cake-a virtuous cake-for breakfast, with your nice cup of coffee. For the most stupendous results, make these muffins just a few hours before you serve them; they will be buoyantly fluffy, with only a tiny bit of pleasing chewy resistance before they melt in your mouth, leaving the amazing flavors of blueberries and vanilla lingering on your tongue.

If you somehow manage to have muffins left over, toast them before serving. They can even be frozen, then toasted. The toasted muffins won't have that same airy texture, but they'll still be tasty. In fact, Melissa likes to spread toasted blueberry muffins with butter-a good antidote if you miss the fat in angel food!

Chef's Note: In order to keep the muffins light, once you beat the egg whites to their peak volume, you don't want to disturb the batter any more than necessary. That's why I toss the vanilla and berries together in a bowl, then fold half of them into the batter and top the muffins with the rest, rather than mixing in the vanilla earlier and stirring all the berries in, as you might in a conventional blueberry muffin recipe. (If you want to know more about meringue, the key to this muffin's fluffiness, see the discussion of meringue on page 15.) The goal is to avoid crushing the airiness-better to mix the berries in less evenly than to lose all that lift.

Makes 12 standard-size muffins

Special Equipment: 12-cup standard-size muffin tin, sifter, electric mixer, cake tester       

  • Nonstick cooking spray, for the muffin cups
  • 2/3 cup cake flour (2.67 ounces, 76 grams)
  • ½ cup confectioners' sugar (2 ounces, 57 grams)
  • ¼ teaspoon salt (1.25 grams)
  • 1¼ cups blueberries (6.5 ounces, 185 grams)
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract (8 grams)
  • 8 large egg whites (7 ounces, 200 grams), at room temperature
  • Pinch of cream of tartar
  • ½ cup granulated sugar (3.5 ounces, 99 grams), plus 6 teaspoons additional for sprinkling
  • Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven. Lightly grease a standard-size muffin tin with nonstick cooking spray, or use ungreased paper muffin cups.

2. Sift the cake flour, confectioners' sugar, and salt onto a piece of parchment or waxed paper and set aside. In a small bowl, toss the blueberries with the vanilla.

3. In a clean bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites and cream of tartar on medium-low speed until frothy. Add 1 tablespoon of the granulated sugar and beat at medium until soft peaks form. Beat in the remaining granulated sugar, and raise the speed to high. Beat until stiff peaks form. While the eggs are beating, preheat the oven to 375°F.

4. When you have stiff peaks, stop the machine and remove the bowl. Immediately sprinkle the dry ingredients and lemon zest over the egg whites and fold in with a rubber spatula, working carefully to avoid deflating the whites. Fold in half of the blueberries.

5. Divide the batter among the muffin cups so that each is two-thirds full. Top each muffin with a few more blueberries and sprinkle each with 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar.

6. Bake on the center rack until the muffins are lightly golden and a cake tester inserted in their centers comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove the muffins from the tin as soon as they come out of the oven and transfer them to a wire rack to cool for 15 minutes. Serve within 4 hours.

 

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Seasonal Fruit Desserts

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Written by Heather Jones   

ImageI absolutely love this time of year. I have so much fun visiting my local farmers market and seeing the rainbow of delicious fruits on display.  Strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, and peaches - oh how I love peaches. My mind instantly goes into overdrive thinking of all the fun things I can make, everything from cocktails to jam. 

Always in search of inspiration, I was thrilled to see that one of my favorite cookbook authors, Deborah Madison, had a new book out: Seasonal Fruit Desserts.  Deborah Madison is most well-known for the award winning "Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone", but she started her career working at great restaurants including Chez Panisse and Greens and is considered one of the foremost authorities on cooking using fresh, seasonal ingredients. 

Despite the title of the book, the recipes aren't listed by season or ingredient, but instead by dessert type: Fresh fruit in Syrup, Roasted and Sautéed Fruit, Pies and Tarts, Puddings and Gelees, and many more.  In the introduction Deborah talks about her own love affair with fruit, tips on growing your own, the importance of appreciating local varieties and ten hints to remember when preparing great fruit desserts. My favorite of her hints is how to "Save a falling cake", which unfortunately there have been many in my past.

Speaking of cakes, the recipe we're sharing with you today is the Olive Oil-Orange Chiffon Cake (see recipe below).  As someone who is notorious for producing the driest cakes ever, the Olive Oil cake is a godsend. This one in particular is super light in texture and moist all at the same time.  The orange flavor is not overpowering, truly one of the best cakes I've ever made.

Olive Oil-Orange Chiffon Cake

From Seasonal Fruit Desserts by Deborah Madison. Broadway (2010).

A tall 10-inch cake, serving 10 to 12

This is an impressive tall cake with a flavor that's not quite recognizable, provided by the olive oil, which is used in place of the usual bland "salad" oil. While cake flour is highly refined and a far cry from the whole-grain flours we're rightly urged to eat, it does make a cake that's flawlessly light, and this is one of the times I do use it. Use a nonstick angel-food cake pan, rub the sides and bottom with butter, and then dust it with sugar to give the cake a subtle crunch. This cake is lovely served with all kinds of fruits, from sugared strawberries to nectarines to citrus compotes.

  • 2 1/2 cups sifted cake flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon fine salt
  • 6 eggs, at room temperature, separated
  • 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
  • 1 cup organic white sugar
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2 teaspoons orange-flower water
  • Finely grated zest of 2 large tangerines or oranges
  • 1/2 cup olive oil (one pressed with lemon would be lovely)
  • Juice squeezed from the orange, plus water to make 1 cup
  • Confectioners' sugar for dusting

1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Butter an angel-food cake pan and dust with turbinado or granulated sugar.

2. Sift the cake flour after measuring it and then a second time with the baking powder and salt and set aside.

3. Using the whisk attachment of a standing mixer, beat the egg whites until just foamy, then add the cream of tartar. Whisk until they begin to form peaks and then gradually add 1/3 cup of the sugar and continue whisking until firm peaks are formed. Avoid getting them too stiff; softer whites will fold more easily. Scrape the whites into a large bowl.

4. Using the same mixing bowl (don't bother to rinse it), beat the yolks with the remaining 2/3 cup sugar on high speed until thick and light colored, 4 to 5 minutes. Lower the speed and add the vanilla, orange-flower water, and zest, then slowly add the oil.

5. Gradually pour in the juice; then sprinkle on the flour by spoonfuls until all is added. Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and reach thoroughly around the bottom of the bowl with a rubber scraper to make sure all the dry ingredients are mixed in.

6. Pour the batter over the egg whites, then fold together using about 8 strokes. Pour the batter into the pan and bake until tall, golden, and pulling away from the pan, 45 to 50 minutes.

7. When done, don't invert the cake; leave it upright to cool. To speed things up, you can lift the cake out of the pan, but leave it attached to its bottom. When cool, use a knife if necessary to separate the cake from the pan, invert it onto a platter, and dust with confectioners' sugar.

SERVE WITH

  • Citrus with Orange Caramel (page 59)
  • Fresh Cherry Compote (page 261) and whipped créme fraîche
  • Blackberries with Rose Water (page 42) or Blackberry Fool (page 206)
  • Whipped cream and fruit or just fruit between layers of the cake
  • 1 cup cream, softly whipped and sweetened with 1 tablespoon confectioners' sugar, 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract, 1 teaspoon orange-flower water, and the juice of a very dark blood orange to tint it pink
  • 1/2 cup apricot preserves stirred into whipped cream

 

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Putting a smile on Dad's face with a chocolate cake

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Written by foodie pam   
ImageBaking, at least for me, is a great way to say thanks and I love you.  And while I love making cookies nothing really shows your devotion like a homemake cake.

But, Father's day is a challenge for baking.  June can be hot (and you know it will be if you plan to spend the day baking).  This year I think I've found the perfect solution  - an ice cream cake courtesy of Elinor Klivans and her fun book "Chocolate Cakes - 50 great cakes for every occasion".  The cake, "Mint Chocolate Crunch Ice Cream Cake" (see recipe below), is also a perfect match for my family.  Ice cream cakes were a family gathering staple throughout my youth (although they were never homemade) and mint is a great summer flavor.  

"Chocolate Cakes" has a bunch of other cakes to choose from (uh - 49 more to be exact!) that I can't wait to try; including the Chocolate Peanut Butter Mousse Cake (which almost won over the mint cake) and a Pear and Chocolate Crumb Cake.  And if the hot weather hits when you decide to bake, Klivans has a couple of other ice cream cakes that will save you from the heat while still enjoying a scrumptious chocolate cake!

Mint Chocolate Crunch Ice Cream Cake

From Chocolate Cakes: 50 Great Cakes for Every Occasion by Elinor Klivans. Chronicle Books (2010).

This is the cake to serve after a big holiday dinner or any time you want an especially refreshing dessert. It is like a giant after-dinner ice cream mint. The cake has two crunchy layers of crushed store-bought chocolate mint sandwich cookies combined with chocolate: one between layers of ice cream and the other topping the cake. The easiest way to crush the sandwich cookies is to put them in a plastic bag and use a rolling pin to make coarse crumbs. It is best to do this in two batches. This method is preferred over using a food processor, which could turn the filled cookies into a paste.

Makes 12 servings

Mixing time 10 minutes

Baking 325°F (165°C/gas mark 3) for about 6 minutes

Chocolate crumb crust

  • One 9-oz (255-g) package chocolate wafers, processed to crumbs in a food processor (about 2 cups total)
  • 6 tbsp (85 g) unsalted butter, melted


Mint chocolate crunch

  • 2 cups (250 g) chocolate mint sandwich cookies (such as 20 Pepperidge Farm Chocolate Mint Milano cookies)
  • 4 oz (115 g) semisweet (plain) chocolate, chopped
  • 1 tbsp corn or canola oil
  • 2 qt (2 l) mint chocolate chip or peppermint ice cream, softened just until spreadable

Position a rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C/gas mark 3). Butter a 9-in (23-cm) springform pan with at least 2 3/4-in (7-cm) sides.

To make the crust: In a large bowl, stir the wafer crumbs and melted butter together to moisten the crumbs evenly. Scrape the crumb mixture into the prepared pan. Using the back of your fingers or the back of a spoon, press the crumb mixture evenly over the bottom and 1 in (2.5 cm) up the sides of the pan. Be careful not to make the crust too thick on the bottom where it meets the sides. Bake for 6 minutes. Let cool thoroughly before adding the ice cream.

Make the mint chocolate crunch. Line a baking sheet (tray) with parchment (baking) paper. Put the cookie crumbs in a large bowl and set aside. Put the chocolate and the oil in a heatproof bowl (or the top of a double boiler) and place it over, but not touching, barely simmering water in a saucepan (or the bottom of a double boiler). Stir until the chocolate is melted and smooth.

Pour the melted chocolate over the cookie crumbs and stir until the crumbs are coated evenly. The mixture will look shiny and form pieces that vary from about 1/4 in (6 mm) to 1/2 in (12 mm). Spread the crumb mixture in the prepared baking sheet. As it cools, it will turn from shiny to dull and become crisp. You will have about 3 cups (365 g) mint chocolate crunch.

Use an ice cream spade to spread half of the ice cream in the cooled crust. Smooth the top. Sprinkle evenly with half of the mint chocolate crunch. Spread the remaining ice cream over the crunch. Sprinkle evenly with the remaining crunch. Wrap the cake, in its pan, tightly in plastic wrap (cling film) and then in heavy aluminum foil. Freeze overnight or for up to 1 week.

To serve the cake, unwrap it, and use a thin, sharp knife to loosen the cake from the sides of the pan. Remove the sides, and use a large, sharp knife to cut the cake into slices.

Choices: Substitute chocolate or vanilla ice cream for the mint ice cream.

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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