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 The cookbook "Grains, Greens, and Grated Coconuts" by Ammini Ramachandran provides an amazing collection of exquisite Southern Indian vegetarian cuisine from Kerala. But "Grains, Greens, and Grated Coconuts" has much more. Ammini provides a fascinating narrative into life in Kerala including culture, customs, and of course cuisine. The recipes are authentic and thanks to Ammini's diligence they can readily be prepared in the western kitchen. Today's recipe, "Aviyal: Mixed Vegetable Medley in Coconut Cumin" shows how Ammini blends the history of Kerala and her knowledge of the cuisine to present an interesting and appetizing dish.
Aviyal: Mixed Vegetable Medley in Coconut Cumin Sauce From "Grains, Greens, and Grated Coconuts" by Amminia Ramachandran
Aviyal is one recipe that captures the spirit of Kerala. A tangy, full-flavored dish, it is a medley of vegetables cooked with coarsely pureed fresh coconut, cumin, green chili peppers, and yogurt all seasoned with curry leaves and a liberal drizzling of coconut oil. Like most scrumptious Kerala recipes, the flavors are robust but not heavy-handed, and the ingredients mix perfectly, melding without any one flavor standing out. Traditionally, ash gourd, snake gourd, yellow cucumbers, green plantains, string beans, telinga potatoes (suran), and drumsticks (Moringa oleifera) are used in the preparation of aviyal. In the United States, green plantains are available in Latin American grocery stores and sometimes even at American supermarkets. Long string beans, ash gourd, snake gourd, yellow cucumbers, drumsticks (fresh, frozen, and canned), and telinga potatoes (suran or zimikand) are available in Indian food stores, and ash gourd (with light green skin and white flesh) is readily available at Chinese markets. Although not traditional, zucchini, carrots, butternut squash, green beans, and potatoes also may be used in this curry. The idea is to use as many vegetables as possible. This is one dish that definitely needs curry leaves. Curry leaves, fresh coconut, and coconut oil give aviyal its authentic flavor.
- 1 green plantain
- 2 medium-sized carrots
- 1 zucchini
- 1 medium-sized potato
- 1 cup ash gourd pieces
- 8 pieces of drumstick*
- 1 cup telinga potato pieces*
- ¼ pound green beans or string beans
- Salt to taste
- ½ teaspoon turmeric powder
- 1½ cups plain yogurt
- 3 cups grated fresh coconut
- 4 to 5 fresh green chilies (serrano or Thai), less for a milder taste
- 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
For seasoning and garnish:
- 3 tablespoons coconut oil
- 12 to 15 fresh curry leaves
Peel and cut the plantains, carrots, zucchini, potato, ash gourd, drumstick, and telinga potato into pieces 2½ to 3 inches long (approximately the size of thick French fries). Cut the green beans or string beans into pieces of about the same size. Place the vegetables in a colander, wash them under running water, and drain. Place the cut potatoes, carrots, drumsticks, telinga potato, and beans in a heavy saucepan, and add just enough water to cover. Sprinkle with salt and turmeric and cook over medium heat. When they are partly cooked, add the remaining vegetable pieces and combine. Cook for five to six minutes, until all the vegetables are cooked; add a couple of tablespoons of water if necessary. Stir the yogurt with a tablespoon and pour it over the cooked vegetables. Simmer for three to five minutes. Grind the coconut, green chilies, and cumin seeds with just enough water to make a coarse, thick puree. Remove the puree from the blender, and stir it into the cooked vegetables. Simmer gently for five minutes over low heat (to prevent the yogurt from curdling). Remove from the stove and garnish with coconut oil and fresh curry leaves. Cover and set aside for ten minutes to allow flavors to blend. Serve with plain boiled rice.
*Both frozen and canned drumsticks and telinga potatoes (labeled suran) are available at Indian grocery stores. If using the canned vegetables, first drain them, wash them under running water, and drain them again. After cooking the fresh vegetables, add them along with the ground coconut puree and mix.
Makes 4 to 6 servings if served with another curry, as is traditional.
About Grains, Greens, and Grated Coconuts
 Author Ammini Ramachandran describes the recipes in "Grains, Greens, and Grated Coconuts": "Most of the recipes in this book were handed down from one generation to the next in my own extended family, and some of them are special gifts from relatives. I have purposely limited myself to a selection of family recipes, and to the geographical, cultural, and historical context of this food, so as to present the subject in its proper perspective. With most recipes, I have given Western substitutes, following the traditional recipe."
Get Grains, Greens, and Grated Coconuts: Recipes and Remembrances of a Vegetarian Legacy at:
Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.
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