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Going Back to Big Sur

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Written by Heather Jones   
Sunday, 21 February 2010

ImageA few months back the armchair traveler in me found a new place to add to my "Must Visit" list. That place was Big Sur, California. I recently had a chance to re-visit that idyllic place with the book "My Nepenthe" by writer and food stylist Romney Steele.  My Nepenthe is a wonderful combination of memoir and cookbook.  It tells the story of Romney's grandparents, Billy and Lolly Fassett, who founded Nepenthe Restaurant and Cafe Kevah in Big Sur, CA.  Nepenthe Restaurant became a favorite place to visit and temporary home to many writers, artists, and musicians throughout the 1950's and 60's.  But, more importantly, My Nepenthe talks about Romney's experiences growing up there and how so much of who she is today is because of her time spent in Big Sur.  

Big Sur was and still is one of the those places that allows you to really be who you are meant to be.  A culture and environment that is conductive to creativity, and if we're talking about it here on Project Foodie that also means great food.  The Food at Nepenthe was just as important to Big Sur as the people that passed through and like many of us, there are meals that take Romney back to some of the best times of her life, mainly those times spent at Big Sur.  

Truly a girl after my own heart, Romney shares with us her recipe for the Meyer Lemon Tart (recipe below). A simple yet elegant dessert that works every time. I'm always looking for a way to make use of my favorite tuber, the sweet potato, and her Sweet Potato Gratin (recipe below) showcases its versatility in savory dishes beautifully.

Sweet Potato Gratin

From My Nepenthe: Bohemian Tales of Food, Family, and Big Sur by Romney Steele (Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2009)

Serves 6 to 8

Here is a more elegant version of my grandmother's cheesy potato bake, and yet it is as simple to make. Serve alongside any main course, or on its own with a brightly dressed salad to counterpoint the richness of the cream.

  • 1 cup whole milk
  • 2/3 cup heavy cream
  • 1 clove garlic, peeled
  • 1 sprig fresh thyme
  • Dash grated fresh nutmeg
  • 2 pounds sweet potatoes, preferably garnet yams, peeled
  • 1 pound Yukon Gold or Yellow Finn potatoes, scrubbed
  • 2 tablespoons butter, plus more for buttering the dish
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • ¾ cup grated Gruyère cheese
  • ¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
  • 1 or 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly butter a medium gratin dish.

In a medium saucepan, combine the milk, cream, garlic, thyme sprig, and nutmeg and heat to just under a boil. Remove from the heat, cover, and steep for 10 minutes. Strain.

Thinly slice the sweet potatoes, using a mandolin or a very sharp knife. Similarly slice the unpeeled Yukon Gold potatoes. Layer half of each in the prepared gratin dish, gently pressing down as you go. Dot with 1 tablespoon butter and season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with half the Gruyère, half the Parmesan, and half the thyme. Repeat with the remaining potatoes, butter, herbs, salt and pepper, and cheeses.

Pour the cream mixture over the top.

Cover tightly with aluminum foil and bake for 50 minutes. Uncover, increase the temperature to 400°F, and continue baking for 15 to 20 minutes, until the potatoes are cooked through and the top is golden. Let sit 5 minutes before serving.

Meyer Lemon Tart

From My Nepenthe: Bohemian Tales of Food, Family, and Big Sur by Romney Steele (Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2009)

Makes 1 (8 or 9-inch) tart, serving 8 to 10

Sweet Dough:

  • ½ cup (1 stick) butter, softened
  • 4 tablespoons confectioners' sugar
  • Pinch salt
  • 1 cup flour

Lemon Curd:

  • 5 or 6 Meyer lemons (about 1 cup juice)
  • 3 eggs plus 3 egg yolks
  • 7/8 cup granulated sugar, or to taste
  • 4 tablespoons butter

A lemony custard tart is always a crowd pleaser and looks beautiful on display. It is often made around the holidays at the restaurant and is one of my most favorite desserts to make at home. The sweet dough crust is easy and simply pressed into the pan, making it a snap to put together.

To make the dough, beat the butter with the sugar, salt, and flour until just
combined. Press the dough evenly into a 9-inch round fluted tart pan. Freeze the prepared tart shell for at least 30 minutes before baking.

Meanwhile, make the lemon curd. Zest half the lemons (setting the zest aside), then extract the juice from all the lemons to make about 1 cup. In a medium nonreactive, heatproof bowl, whisk the eggs and sugar until well combined, then whisk in the lemon juice.

Place the bowl over a gently simmering pot of water and whisk continuously until it begins to thicken, about 5 minutes. Whisk in the butter in pieces; cook, stirring frequently, until the curd coats the back of the spoon, another 5 minutes or so. This is a good time to taste and adjust the sweetness, as needed.

Strain the curd into a separate bowl, then whisk in the zest. Press a piece of plastic wrap on the surface while cooling.

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Bake the tart shell for 20 to 25 minutes until golden brown. Cool slightly, then spoon the lemon curd into the shell, spreading evenly with a spatula. Bake for 7 to 10 minutes, until just set but still slightly jiggly in the middle.

Serve chilled with a dollop of lightly whipped cream or with fresh berries.

About My Nepenthe

ImageLocated on the Big Sur cliffs 808 feet above the Pacific Ocean, Nepenthe Restaurant boasts sweeping views of the rugged Santa Lucia Mountains and the wild south coast of Monterey County. Angular mountains plunge into the crashing surf below, and on a clear day there is no limit to the scenery, unspoiled and immense in nature. Opened in 1949 by the Fassett family, the restaurant is nestled among native oak trees and a historic log cabin (now faced by brick) that was once owned by Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth.

Available at Amazon.com  

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Last Updated ( Saturday, 20 February 2010 )
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