 Photographs copyright (c) 2008 by Gregor Halenda. Published by Clarkson Potter, a division of Random House, Inc.
As those of you who've had the pleasure of tasting his desserts know, Chef Iuzzini has a wonderful talent of transforming even the simplest of ingredients into luscious desserts. As at Jean Georges, the desserts in Dessert FourPlay are "tasting" desserts - groupings of four different, but related, desserts on one plate termed "fourplays". Clearly, this is not an ordinary dessert cookbook. Every dessert presented in Dessert FourPlay is a work of art, from the creative flavor combinations, innovative preparations and wonderful photography.
Dessert FourPlay is also, clearly, a Chef cookbook. The recipe below for Chocolate-Chipotle Soup is one of the more home-cook friendly desserts. The soup is served with a foam and a side of brioche croutons, but to make it simpler you can skip the foam and just make the Chocolate-Chipotle soup. It's an interesting flavor combination that will surprise the lucky person you make it for with the added kick from the Chipotles.
For some of the more complex recipes, Chef Iuzzini presents ways to simplify his creations, at least to a degree. But, you need not actually make any of Chef Iuzzini's creations to learn from his creativity. For each recipe, Chef Iuzzini provides a description with information on things such as the inspiration for the flavor combinations, alternative uses, and preparation tips. You'll also find that Dessert FourPlay is a great visual guide of Chef Iuzzini's creations since every dessert is accompanied with a gorgeous photo.
Creative combinations, luscious photos, and hints on how to make things simpler, that's what you'll find in Dessert FourPlay by Chef Johnny Iuzzini. Chocolate-Chipotle Soup ~ Milk Chocolate-Coconut Foam
Reprinted from the book DESSERT FOURPLAY by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Copyright (c) 2008 by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore.
Serves 4 to 6 on its own or 8 as part of a fourplay
Working in a restaurant affords me the opportunity to learn the food cultures of many of my colleagues, who often bring home cooking to share for lunch. When that home cooking is Mexican, the dishes are sometimes flavored with chipotles or another chile, and I've come to crave that little kiss of heat, even in dessert. The gentle kick in the chocolate soup is tamed by the soothing chocolate-coconut foam.
For the Milk Chocolate-Coconut Foam
- 5 ounces (150 g) whole milk chocolate (preferably Valrhona Jivara 40% cacoa), chopped
- 1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk
Put the chocolate in a glass bowl and melt in the microwave, using 30-second bursts and stirring after each burst, or melt in a double boiler. Bring the coconut milk to a simmer in a saucepan. Add the chocolate and emulsify with an immersion blender. Refrigerate until cool, then emulsify again with an immersion blender. Pour into a whipped cream maker and charge with a cream whipper charger. Shake vigorously. Refrigerate until needed or for up to 2 days.
For the Soup
(Makes about 3 1/2 cups) - Scant 1/4 ounce (6 g) chipotle chiles
- About 3 1/4 cups (780 g) milk
- 5 ounces (150 g) milk chocolate (preferably Valrhona Jivara 40% cacao), chopped
Heat a small skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium-high heat. When the skillet is hot, add the chiles, and toast them for about 90 seconds, turning them once. Let the chiles cool, then remove the seeds and chop.
Put the chiles in a small saucepan with 1 1/2 cups of the milk. Bring to a simmer, then turn off the heat and infuse for 20 minutes. Mix with an immersion blender to pulverize the chiles. Strain through a fine strainer into a measuring cup and add enough milk to make 3 cups. Pour the milk into a clean saucepan and bring to a boil. Put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl. Pour about one-third of the milk into the center and stir from the inside of the bowl out. Continue adding milk gradually as the chocolate melts. Mix with an immersion blender.
To Serve
- Chocolate brioche crouton
- Shredded unsweetened coconut, toasted
Fill a small glass or a cup about two-thirds full with the soup and top with the foam. Garnish with some croutons and toasted coconut. Repeat for each serving.
For the photograph, I held the glass on its side while I added the foam.
About Desserts FourPlay Far from the conventional slice of cake at the end of a meal, Johnny's seasonal creations-four mini desserts in a quartet of complementary flavors and textures-are a culinary adventure. In Dessert FourPlay, he shares his secrets and inspirations, delivering standout recipes for incredible desserts that can be served alone or combined into his signature fourplay groupings, creating the perfect sweet finale for any meal.
Available at Amazon.com
Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.
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