Project Foodie - Cecilia Chiang: The Seventh Daughter

Cecilia Chiang: The Seventh Daughter

Save Recipe: Green-Onion Oil-Tossed Noodles

Photo by Leigh Beisch

Cecilia Chiang's restaurant, the Mandarin, introduced authentic northern Chinese cuisine to San Francisco in 1961. Chinese dinning in the United States hasn't been the same since. In "The Seventh Daughter" Cecilia tells us not only about her life at the Mandarin but also of her childhood in China, life in Tokyo, and the transition to life in United States that culminated with the creation of the Mandarin. Her stories are intriguing and even on their own make "The Seventh Daughter" a great read. But "The Seventh Daughter" is also a compilation of some of Cecilia's favorite recipes from the Mandarin. The recipes present her northern Chinese cuisine at a level attainable by the home cook. The recipes are accompanied with an introduction by Cecilia and very helpful preparation and cooking tips by Lisa Weiss. The result is a great collection of Chinese cuisine recipes and a can't stop reading story of the hurdles that Cecilia Chiang has overcome in her exceptional life.

Green-Onion Oil-Tossed Noodles

From The Seventh Daughter by Cecilia Chiang with Lisa Weiss, 10 Speed Press, 2007

In Shanghai, these simple but flavorful noodles are very popular in restaurants, in homes, and from street vendors. My mother, who came from a town near Shanghai called Wuxi, often made them at home for us. They're super simple and very tasty. I also like the green-onion oil drizzled over rice or baked potatoes. The dried shrimp, which is an ingredient that Chinese love but that I realize is an acquired taste, can be left out if you'd like. The noodles are still delicious without them.

The flavor of this dish depends on the freshness and quality of the green onions. Be sure to by onions with a firm texture and vibrant green stalks. Any onions with wilted green should be avoided.

Dried shrimp come in packages in the refrigerator section of Asian markets and are sold according to size. Check the color of the shrimp in the package - they should be pink-orange, never gray. They keep in a sealed bag in the refrigerator for 3 months or can be frozen for up to 6 months. -L.W.

Serves 4

½ ounce extra-large dried shrimp (optional)
3 T peanut oil
Pinch of kosher salt
2 bunches green onions, thinly sliced lengthwise on the bias into very thin, 2-inch-long strips (about 4 cups)
1/3 cup soy sauce
1 lb fresh 1/8-inch-wide Chinese noodles

Put the shrimp in a bowl, covered with hot water, soak for 30 minutes, or until softened. Drain the shrimp over a small bowl, reserving the soaking liquid separately, and set both aside.

To cook the sauce, heat a large wok over high heat until a bead of water dances on the surface and then evaporates. Add the oil and a healthy pinch of salt and swirl, then toss in the green onions and cook until they have just started to wilt and turn bright green, about 20 seconds. Add the shrimp and 2 tablespoons of the reserved soaking liquid and toss to combine with the green onions. Pour in the soy sauce, bring the liquid to a boil, stir to thoroughly coat, and continue to cook 30 seconds more. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and set aside to cool to room temperature.

To cook the noodles, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Remove the noodles from their package and fluff the strands to separate. Have a colander ready by the sink for draining. Add the noodles to the boiling water and cook until they are tender, about 2 minutes. Drain the noodles and rinse them under cold water. Drain them again and remove as much water as possible. Transfer the noodles to a large serving bowl. Top the noodles with the green-onion mixture. This dish is best served at room temperature.

About The Seventh Daughter

A pioneer in the food world, Cecilia Chiang introduced Americans to authentic northern Chinese cuisine at her San Francisco restaurant, the Mandarin, in 1961, earning the adoration of generations of diners, including local luminaries such as Marion Cunningham, Ruth Reichl, and Chuck Williams. In THE SEVENTH DAUGHTER, Chiang presents a classic collection of recipes framed by her gripping life's story. Beginning with her account of a privileged childhood in 1920s and 1930s Beijing, Chiang chronicles a 1,000-mile trek on foot in the wake of the Japanese occupation, her arrival in San Francisco, and her transformation from accidental restaurateur to culinary pioneer. The book's recipes feature cherished childhood dishes and definitive Mandarin classics, while showcasing Cecilia's purist approach to authentic Chinese home cooking.

The Seventh Daughter is available at Amazon.com.

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