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Carolyn Banfalvi: Food Wine Budapest

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ImageContinuing on our IACP awards celebration, today’s guest blogger is Carolyn Banfalvi the author of Food Wine Budapest  a finalist in the Food Reference & Technical Category.

Carolyn, who has lived in Budapest nearly ten years, has put all of her food finds together in Food Wine Budapest which is a culinary guide to Budapest. Her book has recommendations for restaurants, cafés, specialty shops, and market along with  background on the culture of eating and drinking in Hungary, explanations of specific dishes and drinks, and a history of Hungarian cuisine. 

Today Carolyn shares her top choices of Budapest food given a mere 24 hours in the city…

24 Hours in Budapest

by Carolyn Banfalvi

Despite its vast repertoire and variety, Hungarian cuisine is possibly one of the most under-appreciated and unknown European cuisines, and there are few good Hungarian restaurants outside of the country. Most people already know about paprika and goulash. But when they come to Hungary, they’ll learn that their goulash is actually pörkölt and that Hungarian food isn’t all about paprika. Goulash is just one of the many world-class dishes that define Hungarian cuisine, and paprika is just one of the crucial Hungarian ingredients. Since moving to Budapest I’ve become passionate about exploring Hungary’s bounty of fantastic food and drink. And I love that I’m still discovering more—a tiny mom-and-pop eatery that I’d somehow never walked by before, a rarely-made dish that suddenly appears on a restaurant menu, a new boutique winery in the countryside, or a great product at the market that had somehow eluded me before.

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Photo by George Konkoly-Thege
Since Hungarian cuisine is so under-represented abroad, come to Budapest to sample everything firsthand! I’ll tell you where to go and what to eat and drink. Sadly, Hungary has been hit particularly hard by the financial crisis. Restaurants are emptier than ever before, and because of the weak forint, things are much cheaper now for those traveling with dollars. While I would definitely recommend spending as much time as possible in Budapest, here’s how I would spend one perfect day in Budapest if I had nothing to do but eat and drink.

The Gerlóczy Kávéház (V. Gerlóczy utca 1, www.gerloczy.hu) sits on a lovely little square in the heart of central Budapest. Owned by a cheesemonger (who has a shop down the street), breakfast here is an ideal way to start the day. Better yet, book a room at the Gerlóczy Rooms De lux, one of Budapest’s few personable boutique hotels, which sits above the café.

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Photo by George Konkoly-Thege
Cross the Danube and start the day browsing the lush fruits and vegetables, stacks of bacon, and fresh cheese at the Fény utca Market (II. Lövőház utca 12). Afterwards, do what Hungarians do and have a tíz órai (mid-morning snack). Cross the street and have coffee and a slice of Dobos torta at the Auguszt Cukrászda (II. Fény utca 8, www.augusztcukraszda.hu) upstairs in the traditional gilded room. While you’re in the neighborhood, check out Budapest’s premier wine shop, Bortársaság (I. Batthyány utca 59), and pick up a few bottles of Hungarian bor to stuff in your suitcase.

Head back across the river to Pest and have lunch at Kádár Étkezde (VII. Klauzál tér 9), a bustling lunch-room in the old Jewish district, serving home-style classics like stuffed cabbage and boiled beef with horseradish. Be ready to share a table with strangers. Skip coffee and dessert and instead head to Centrál Kávéház (V. Károlyi Mihály utca 9, www.centralkavehaz.hu), a favorite haunt of some of Hungary’s most famous twentieth-century writers. It was shuttered for decades and lovingly restored a few years ago to be returned to its status as one of the city’s best traditional coffee houses. 

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Photo by George Konkoly-Thege
While you’re in the neighborhood, check out the Central Market Hall (IX. Vámház körút 1-3), the city’s largest market hall and one of Europe’s finest. Buy some more drinkable souvenirs at Mester Pálinkák (V. Zrínyi utca 18), a tiny shop owned by a pálinka-specialized journalist. His shop stocks the evidence of the recent revival of Hungarian artisanal pálinka, pure fruit brandy. Mark the end of a long day with a pre-dinner glass of wine in one of Budapest’s most gorgeous (and luxurious) art nouveau buildings, the Four Seasons Gresham Palace (V. Roosevelt tér 5-6). The bar also offers a nice martini menu.

Have dinner at Klassz (VI. Andrássy út 41, www.klassz.eu), a bistro with a modern menu that always includes a few Hungarian classics. The bread is deliciously house-made, and the place is owned by Bortársaság. Start with a glass of Gellavilla Olaszrizling, a white wine made in tiny quantities at Lake Balaton by one of the restaurants owners. If you’re up to it, stay out late exploring the funky, ever-changing bar scene in the seventh district. Mumus (VII. Dob utca 18)and Szimpla (VII. Kazinczy utca 14) are two of many cool places to sample an Unicum (a Hungarian bitter liquor) or a pálinka. Egészségedre. (Cheers) 

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Only one day?!?
chznarles (Registered) 2009-04-15 17:09:20

I suppose if that's all I had, but there are so many fantastic places. I don't think I could make it past lunch without a Hortobagyi Palacsinta, for one.

Also, if you go please bring me back a bottle of Unicum. Pretty please
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