Baking is a science and an art that often intimidates because it is one of the few aspects of cooking where you really have to follow the recipe to succeed.  Of course, while following the recipe is essential to good baking understanding why the recipe is the way it is can help even more.  That's why today's cookbook "About Professional Baking" by Gail Sokol is a treasure chest of information for anyone who wants to be a better baker even if you are not striving to be a professional baker.  In this book, Gail, who is a culinary arts professional and instructor, has incorporated her vast knowledge and experience to create a wonderful learning tool and knowledge base for all who aspire to bake well.  

An International Association of Culinary Professions cookbook awards finalist, this book is formatted much like a text book.  Unlike traditional cookbooks filled with a collection of recipes, "About Professional Baking" is broken into chapters that focus on specific skills and use recipes as examples of those skills.  The first four chapters are devoted to explaining various components and concepts of baking such as measuring, mixing, organizing and of course details on the ingredients.  A whole chapter is devoted to wheat and other flours.  The remaining eighteen chapters lead you through various skills and baking science concepts ranging from thickeners to leaveners to specific skills such as cake making.  For example, the first recipe in the book is "Individual Rhubarb Berry Cobblers" which teaches you how to prepare and use a starch-thickener for a fruit filling.

While some knowledge of earlier chapters is helpful, the detail and quality of presentation throughout this book makes it possible to simply pick and choose particular topics rather than requiring you to work through the entire book.  For example, the "Black and White Chocolate Semifreddo" recipe does not appear until chapter 18 but, as you can see below, the information provided allows you to prepare the recipe and learn all about making a semifreddo without requiring you to have gone through the rest of the book.

Gail further increases our knowledge and understanding of baking by including a chapter devoted to healthy baking.  In this chapter, she teaches how to modify recipes to use the healthier alternatives needed to create healthy baked goods.  

The amount of information in this book is substantial.  If you just want quick and easy baking recipes then this book is probably not for you. But if you want to learn some of the science behind the art of baking, if you want to improve the quality of your baking, or if you want to feel more confident baking then "About Professional Baking" can help you.

Black and White Chocolate Semifreddo

From "About Professional Baking" by Gail Sokol, Thompson Delmar Learning, 2006

Makes 1 loaf pan: 9 ¼ by 5 ¼ by 2 ¾  inches (23 by 13 by 7 cm)

• How to prepare a still-frozen dessert called a semifreddo.
• A custard base adds richness.
• Whipped cream incorporates air, creating a light, airy texture.
• Angling the pan during freezing adds visual interest to the finished dessert.

STEP A:

GANACHE CENTER

1. Place the heavy cream, butter, and sugar into a heavy medium saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil and remove from the heat.

2. Whisk the chocolate into the mixture, until it is well blended. Set aside and allow to cool to room temperature.

STEP B:

MAKE 1 RECIPE OF CREME ANGLAISE (See below) THROUGH STEP 4. MAKE SURE IT IS HOT.

STEP C:

ASSEMBLY

1. Line a metal 91/4- by 51/4- by 23/4- inch (23- by 13- by 7-cm) loaf pan with two pieces of plastic wrap, allowing the excess plastic wrap to hang over the edges of the pan. Set aside.

2. Place approximately 12 fluid ounces (11/2 cups; 360 mL) hot crème anglaise into each of two bowls, dividing it in half.

3. Using a different whisk in each bowl, whisk the chopped white chocolate into one bowl and the chopped semisweet chocolate into the other bowl until both chocolates are melted. Have ready two bowls sitting in two ice water baths with a sieve in each. Pour each mixture through a sieve and whisk each until it is cold, stirring frequently. Once cooled, the dark chocolate crème anglaise should be stored until needed in the refrigerator with a piece of plastic wrap placed directly on top of it.

4. In a bowl of an electric mixer, place 8 fluid ounces (1 cup; 240 mL) of the heavy cream. Using the whip attachment, beat the cream until it reaches soft peaks. Using a rubber spatula, fold the whipped cream into the cooled white chocolate crème anglaise. Place the prepared loaf pan at a 45-degree angle. Pour the mixture into the pan. Place it in the freezer, maintaining the 45-degree angle by propping it. Freeze until firm.

5. Spread the reserved ganache evenly over the frozen white chocolate mixture. Return to the freezer for 30 minutes, still maintaining the angle.

6. Whip the remaining heavy cream to soft peaks. Stir the chilled dark chocolate crème anglaise with a whisk in case any chocolate has settled to the bottom of the bowl. Add the whipped cream to the mixture and gently fold the two together. Remove the loaf pan from the freezer and set it flat on a smooth surface. Pour the dark chocolate mixture into the pan and spread it evenly. The mixture should now come to the top of the pan. Cover the pan with plastic wrap and freeze for several hours.

7. When ready to serve, unmold the semifreddo onto a cutting board. Allow it to sit at
room temperature for 10 minutes to warm up slightly. Using a sharp knife, trim both
ends off and cut the remainder into slices. Serve immediately.

Crème Anglaise

From "About Professional Baking" by Gail Sokol, Thompson Delmar Learning, 2006

Makes approximately 16 fluid ounces (2 cups, 473 ml)

1. Using a small, sharp knife, scrape down the length of the inside of the vanilla bean and put the black pulp along with the bean into a heavy medium saucepan.  Add the heavy cream and the milk. Bring the mixture to a boil.  Remove the pan from the heat and cover it to allow the milk and cream to become infused with vanilla flavor.

2. Set up an ice water bath using 2 bowls: 1 large and 1 medium sized.  Fill the larger bowl one third of the way with ice.  Add cold water to the ice until the ice cubes are just floating.  Place the smaller bowl into the ice water and the strainer into the smaller bowl.  Set aside.

3. In a heatproof mixing bowl, whisk the egg yolks and the sugar until well combined.  Slowly dribble in some of the hot milk mixture to temper the eggs and then gradually add the remaining milk mixture, discarding the vanilla bean.

4. Pour the custard back into the saucepan and place over medium low heat.  Stir constantly with a wooden spoon until a thermometer reaches 180°F (82°C).  You may have to move the pot on and off the heat if the custard gets too hot.  It should never come to a boil.  When the custard is done, it should coat the back of the spoon.  To ensure the custard is done, once it coats the back of the spoon, take a finger and drag it across the back of the spoon.  If a path remains, the custard has thickened to the correct consistency.  Do not place the spoon back into the custard sauce.

5. Remove the custard from the heat and immediately pour the sauce through the strainer into the reserved bowl set over the ice water.  The strainer will catch any curdled egg protein to ensure a smooth sauce.  Stir the sauce until it cools.  Pour it into a smaller container and place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the custard.  Refrigerate.

About Professional Baking

This IACP (International Association of Culinary Professionals) cookbook finalist is designed to present the principles of science that are applicable to baking. Each distinct chapter covers one or a group of related concepts, and contains introductory narrative and background information; an exemplary recipe; and a series of culinary lessons. Additional recipes are included in each chapter, and a step by step, full color series of photos accompanies each culinary lesson. The special features of this text include discussions of science related topics; pastry history; Lessons Demonstrated boxes, which highlight important principles in each chapter; Professional Profiles sections that highlight important culinary figures; and numerous tables, charts, and photographs designed to explain the principles in recipes. The unique presentation of material, the author's accessible writing style, the culinary lessons, and the numerous recipes provided make this text the most appropriate baking text available for today's culinary student.

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