This season is flooded with cookbooks that celebrate fresh produce. We've seen a lot of them here at Project Foodie, and have already featured some of our favorites (here, here and here). It's easy to become jaded after a while and yawn off yet another publication, but Fast, Fresh & Green captured my attention.

For starters, this one is devoted solely to vegetable side dishes, the bane of many a mom. Author Susie Middleton is a former chef and current editor-at-large for Fine Cooking magazine—one of my favorites. Most importantly, however, she is an avid home cook who understands the daily challenge of serving meals that are quick, creative, and enticing. The ingredients she relies upon are available at nearly any well-stocked supermarket; and her recipes are easy enough for a weeknight family supper, yet flashy enough to serve guests.

Instead of the ubiquitous season-by-season format, the 90+ recipes are divided into 9 simplified cooking methods, such as Quick-Roasting, Quick-Braising, Hands-On Sautéing, and Walk-Away Sautéing. There's even a No Cooking chapter for lazy days, and a "bonus chapter" called Baking Gratins (with the sub-title "Slower but Worth It"). In fact, this book is as much about shopping, prepping, and mastering cooking techniques as it is about vegetables.

Follow the recipes as written and you won't be disappointed. But if you want to take it one step further, you'll be in for an eye-opening experience. Follow the author's advice and you'll stock up on pantry essentials (clearly outlined in the beginning of the book), and purchase a healthy variety of fresh veggies each week. Once these components are in place, the actual meal prep begins with your decision as to how you feel like cooking on that particular day. Is it a rushed evening that dictates a super-fast meal? Or do you have a little time to linger over a glass of wine as you cook? Maybe it's time to fire up the outdoor grill. You're the cook; you're in charge. Once you decide upon the cooking method, THEN you decide which veggies and seasonings best fit into your menu.

I have tried Ms. Middleton's approach over the past couple of weeks and found that it not only stimulates creativity, it is surprisingly liberating. The author takes the ho-hum out of dinner with dishes like Colorful Chinese Kick-Slaw; Happy Stir-Fry of Zucchini, Corn, and Peanuts; Sautéed Sugar Snap Peas with Salami Crisps; and Carrots with Warm Olive and Mint Dressing. Most of these side-dishes are so appealing it's easy to blow off the whole idea of serving a traditional protein alongside, and simply feast on veggies. And why not? Ms. Middleton proves that green is not only good, it's the best part of the party.

Braised Fingerlings with Rosemary and Mellow Garlic

amazon.com

Fingerlings. Just the name of these potatoes tickles me, and then there's that great knobby shape.  They're fun to cook with, and because they're relatively high in starch, braising is a great way to treat them. The starch helps them brown up quickly in the pan, but the braising liquid keeps their fluffy texture from drying out.

2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
8 large garlic cloves, each peeled and cut crosswise into 2 or 3 pieces
1/2 tsp kosher salt, and more as needed
12 oz/340 g small fingerling potatoes, halved lengthwise
1/2 cup/120 ml low-sodium chicken broth, and more if necessary
1 Tbsp unsalted butter
2 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 to 1 tsp sherry vinegar

1. In a 10-in/25-cm straight-sided sauté pan with a lid, heat the olive oil over medium heat, add the garlic, and sauté just until the oil becomes fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle the salt over the bottom of the pan and arrange the potato halves, cut side down, in the pan among the garlic. Cover the pan loosely, leaving the lid partially askew to let a little steam escape, and cook until the bottoms of the potatoes are nicely browned, 7 to 9 minutes. (Move the pan around occasionally for even browning.)

2. Pour in the broth (it will sputter a bit), partially cover again, and reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook, without stirring, until the chicken broth reduces to 1 or 2 Tbsp, 5 to 7 minutes. Pierce a potato with a paring knife. It should be just tender. (If not, add 1/4 cup of broth or water to the pan, partially cover, bring to a simmer, and cook until reduced to 1 or 2 Tbsp. Check again.) Add the butter and rosemary to the pan and stir the vegetables. Cook until the butter has melted and the rosemary has softened a bit and released its aroma, 1 to 2 minutes. As the butter melts, stir and scrape the bottom of the pan to incorporate any browned bits. Season the potatoes with a little more kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, and season with sherry vinegar to taste. Transfer the vegetables to a serving dish and stir and scrape out any remaining pan sauce over them. Serve warm.

Serves 3 to 4

Provençal Green Beans with Lemon-Pepper Oil and Herbed Sea Salt

From Fast, Fresh & Green by Susie Middleton (Chronicle Books, 2010)
            
My friend Ruth Lively, who's a terrific gardener and cook, tipped me off to dressing green beans while they're still warm with nothing but a really flavorful extra-virgin olive oil and a generous sprinkling of coarse sea salt. The fragrant olive oil mixing with the warmth of the beans creates a flavor that's just naturally delicious. Notching the flavor up just a bit isn't a bad idea either, so I often use an infused oil and an herb salt to dress the beans. The Provençal combination I'm including here is a lemon-pepper oil and an herb salt that you can make with either rosemary or lavender.

I have a lot of lavender growing in my yard, and it's taken me a while to figure out how to use it in the kitchen. I've found that just a little bit combined with a good sea salt, like fleur de sel, makes an intriguing condiment, not just for green beans, but also for other vegetables and grilled meats. That said, I certainly understand if it sounds too floral for you-opt for rosemary or just plain sea salt, but don't be shy about the amount of salt you use. The lemon-pepper oil is really versatile, too; drizzle any extra on grilled fish or grilled bread. (Make some extra and keep it in the fridge.)

You will have to taste the green beans after a few minutes of cooking to get a sense of how firm they are-that way when you taste again in another minute, you'll feel the difference. Keep cooking the beans just until you can easily bite through them (you won't feel resistance). I assure you that they'll still be green. You don't want to overcook them, but undercooked beans have a slightly unpleasant, rubbery texture to them. How fast your beans cook will depend in part on how old and how big they are; you can remove thinner ones sooner than the rest.

Serve these beans in high summer with mustardy grilled chicken. Or just eat them with your fingers after dressing them.

• 2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1 pound/455 g green beans, stem ends trimmed
• 2 tablespoons Quick-Infused Lemon-Pepper Oil (recipe follows) or best-quality extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/2 to 1 teaspoon Provençal Herb Salt (recipe follows) or coarse sea salt, preferably fleur de sel

1. Fill a large saucepan half full with water, add the salt, and bring to a boil. Arrange a few layers of dishtowels on a work surface to drain the beans. Add the beans to the boiling water and begin timing immediately. Boil until the beans are tender to the bite but still green, 5 to 8 minutes. (Begin tasting after 4 minutes; the cooking time will vary, depending on the age of the beans and how quickly your stove top returns water to a boil.) Don't undercook, as toothy green beans are not the goal here. Drain the beans, or use tongs to lift them out of the water, and spread them out on the towels to let excess moisture drain and evaporate, about 5 minutes.

2. Transfer the beans to a shallow serving dish and drizzle most of the oil over them. Sprinkle with some of the herb salt or sea salt. Toss gently and add more oil to coat well and more herb salt. Taste a bean and add still more salt if you like (be generous!). Serve warm.

Serves 4

Quick-Infused Lemon-Pepper Oil

From Fast, Fresh & Green by Susie Middleton (Chronicle Books, 2010)

This oil keeps well in the fridge, so double or triple the amounts if you like and use it on grilled fish or any steamed vegetable.

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon packed grated lemon zest
• 8 coarse grinds black pepper

1. Pour the olive oil into a small bowl and add the lemon zest and pepper. Let sit for 15 to 20 minutes before using.

Yields 2 tablespoons
 

Provençal Herb Salt

From Fast, Fresh & Green by Susie Middleton (Chronicle Books, 2010)

This salt delivers a lot of flavor. Lavender can be overpowering, though, so take care not to include more than 1/4 teaspoon of chopped buds per 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Mix this not too long before using. This salt is delicious on roast lamb, as well as on warm green beans.

• 1/4 teaspoon chopped fresh lavender buds or rosemary leaves
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt

In a small bowl, combine the lavender with the salt and mix well with your fingers. Let sit for a few minutes before using.

Yields 3/4 teaspoon

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Do you stir-fry? 

I used to get various assortments of vegetables at the Farmers' Market, cook them in a skillet and serve them over rice - stir-frying right? Well... I'm not saying the result wasn't tasty but it certainly wasn't a stir-fry. 

So what is stir-frying?  Grace Young sought out Chinese cooks from all over the world to find the answer to just that question. The result is "Stir-Frying to the Sky's Edge". From simple to not so simple, from meat to meat-less, and from traditional to modern Grace teaches you how to produce great stir-frys.

I've only begun, but already I've learned enough to know that dinner after a trip to the Farmers' Market won't be the same again.  Of course, the recipes require a bit more than fresh vegetables - the Chinese pantry can be a bit overwhelming if you aren't familiar with it, but Grace helps with that too.  

I started with Stir-Fried Eggs with Velvet Shrimp (see recipe below) because I have a thing for eggs and have always wanted to create a velvet dish. The dish is also fairly straightforward and doesn't require a bunch of new pantry items. 

I can't say I've mastered Stir-Frying yet, but that's the fun part of tackling a new cookbook isn't it?  Practice makes perfect… 

Stir-Fried Eggs with Velvet Shrimp

amazon.com

Velvet shrimp radically transform stir-fried eggs into a sophisticated dish. The shrimp are not velveted in the true sense of the technique (see Velvet Stir-Fry, page 100) because they are not blanched in oil or water. Nonetheless, the light egg white-cornstarch marinade gives the shrimp the "crisp" silky texture revered by Chinese food devotees. I take the teaspoon of egg white needed for the marinade from one of the eggs rather than break open a fifth egg. After refrigerating the marinated shrimp, be sure to let them stand at room temperature for 15 minutes

before stir-frying; if the shrimp are ice cold, they will not be cooked by the time the eggs are just set. I prefer to stir-fry these eggs in a wok. If you want to use a skillet, it may require another tablespoon of oil to prevent the eggs from sticking.

• 4 ounces small shrimp, peeled, deveined, and patted dry
• 4 large eggs, 1 teaspoon egg white reserved
• 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch
• 2 1/2 teaspoons Shao Hsing rice wine or dry sherry
• 1/8 plus 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon plus 2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil
• 1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper
• 1/3 cup chopped scallions
• 1 tablespoon minced ginger
• 1/3 cup frozen peas, defrosted

1. In a medium bowl combine the shrimp, the 1 teaspoon egg white, cornstarch, 1/2 teaspoon of the rice wine, and 1/8 teaspoon of the salt. Stir until the cornstarch has dissolved. Stir in 1 teaspoon of the oil. Put the shrimp uncovered in the refrigerator for 15 minutes. Bring the shrimp to room temperature for 15 minutes. In a medium bowl beat the eggs, pepper, and the remaining 2 teaspoons rice wine and 1/4 teaspoon salt.

2. Heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or 12-inch skillet over high heat until a bead of water vaporizes within 1 to 2 seconds of contact. Swirl in the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, add the scallions and ginger, then, using a metal spatula, stir-fry 10 seconds or until the aromatics are fragrant. Add the shrimp and stir-fry 1 minute or until the shrimp begins to turn color but is not cooked through. Add the peas, swirl the egg mixture into the wok, and stir-fry 1 minute or until the shrimp is cooked through and the eggs are just set but still moist. Do not overcook.

Serves 2 as a main dish with rice or 4 as part of a multicourse meal.

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"Eating Local" is a phrase that's come to define the way a whole new generation of Farmers, Chefs, Foodies, Moms, and Average Joes are eating. 

The funny thing is there was a time when "Eating Local" was the norm, before the days of big agribusiness.  But it would seem that America is starting to see the error of her ways and going back to what once worked before: purchasing milk from dairy farms within a 100 mile radius, starting a victory garden, or, at the very least, soliciting the local farmers' markets and taking the time to get to know the farmer who grows your favorite Brandywine Tomatoes.  "Eating Local" is being celebrated in the food community in a way that I've never seen with any other food trend, and maybe that's because at heart it really isn't a trend but a way of life. 

Premier Kitchen Retailer Sur La Table and James Beard Award winning author Janet Fletcher have teamed up to write "Eating Local: The Cookbook Inspired by America's Farmers".  This book is truly a love letter to the eating local movement.  It is packed with delicious seasonal recipes, stunning photography, and stories about today's farmers -- people who are working hard to bring you the very best in local ingredients.  In addition there are tips for the "Urban Homesteader", those who grow tomatoes on fire escapes instead of in backyards and front lawns.  It also has a guide for storing all that fresh produce that you invariably buy too much off at the farmers' markets when in season. 

The recipe I chose to feature today is one that shows you just how satisfying a simple meal can be when you're using the freshest ingredients possible.  Grilled Romaine with a Six-Minute Farm Egg (see recipe below) is the kind of meal I would prepare for myself after a long day at the office or an even longer day at the computer when I don't feel like spending lots of time in the kitchen.  Initially I would have never thought of grilling romaine, the first thing that comes to mind is soggy lettuce, but romaine is one salad green that can stand up to the heat while still retaining its texture and flavor.  I have a real weakness for farm fresh eggs, (so much that I'm trying to convince my husband to let me get a few backyard chickens) and they prove themselves to be the perfect accompaniment for this deconstructed Caesar salad minus the anchovies.  This dish would also be great for impromptu guests, trust me they will be pleasantly surprised -- romaine has never looked so good or tasted so delicious.   

Grilled Romaine with a Six-Minute Farm Egg    

amazon.com

Serves 4

Why six minutes? Because that timing produces a picture-perfect boiled egg, with a firm white and a creamy, brilliant yellow yolk. If you have never grilled romaine hearts, a delightful surprise awaits. Thanks to their natural sugar, they color up beautifully on the grill. Cook them until they hover on the brink between tender and crisp. Shower with Parmigiano Reggiano and accompany with lemon wedges and your impeccable eggs. Serve as a first course or side dish for a grilled T-bone steak.

• 4 large eggs, at room temperature
• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 4 hearts of romaine, each 5 to 6 ounces, halved lengthwise with the core attached
• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Chunk of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, for grating
• 4 lemon wedges

Prepare a moderate charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill to medium (375ºF)

Put the eggs in a saucepan with water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat, then immediately cover and set aside for 6 minutes exactly. Drain and quickly run under cold running water until cool, then peel and set aside.

Put the olive oil on a tray or platter. Turn the romaine hearts in the oil to coat them all over. Season with salt.

Place the romaine hearts directly over the coals or gas flame. Cook, turning as needed, until they are lightly browned on both sides, crisp in spots, and tender yet still a touch crunchy, 5 to 7 minutes.

Transfer the romaine hearts to a serving platter or individual plates. Grind some pepper over the romaine, then grate Parmigiano Reggiano over them, using as much as you like. Cut the eggs in half and place them alongside the romaine. Sprinkle a little salt on the eggs. Accompany with the lemon wedges. Serve immediately.

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Ever wonder how Hollywood celebrities entertain? They usually hire Denise Vivaldo. From intimate dinners at home to the Governor's Ball at the Academy Awards, she's done it all. And now she has written The Entertaining Encyclopedia.

Denise is a celebrity in her own right: a classically trained chef; professional recipe developer; award-winning author of 5 cookbooks; UCLA Culinary Program professor; accomplished food stylist; and renowned caterer for 20+ years. Who could be better qualified to write about entertaining?

The book features 25 menus as diverse as a Neighborhood Block Party; Garden Brunch; Barcelona Bash; and Grecian Get-Together. There are also over 200 clearly written, tried-and-true recipes from the author's private files. None of them require daunting skills or impossible-to-find ingredients, yet each has enough pizazz to make a lasting impression. (You don't need to be rich or famous to enjoy Prosciutto-Wrapped Mango; Seared Ahi Tuna Salad; Couscous with Raisins and Caramelized Onions; or Death-by-Chocolate Cookies.) As an added bonus for those who entertain larger groups, each recipe indicates how many times it can be multiplied successfully.

The first half of the book is loaded with tips. Seriously. The amount of practical information is staggering—things like choosing the perfect menu; creating ambiance; figuring out how much food and drink you'll need; choosing the right glass for the right beverage, and just about every other dilemma a host might encounter. The secrets to success are all here—even ones you may have never considered.

The most refreshing surprise is that the book doesn't read like some dry instructional manual. Slip in-between the covers with Denise and you'll learn about her surprise encounter with Elizabeth Taylor, and how she met Frank Sinatra—twice.

There are certainly flashier books on the subject of entertaining—glossy coffee table tomes with more style than substance—but none contain the invaluable minutiae this author has crammed into less than 500 pages. My personal inclination is to say this book is a necessary resource for anyone who ever answers the doorbell; but suffice it to say that the knowledge contained within these pages is truly encyclopedic.

Roasted Chicken Chopped Salad with Blue Cheese Vinaigrette

Amazon.com

SERVES 6 or can be multiplied up to 4 times

There's so much variety and potential in this chopped salad, and it's an easy one to serve on a picnic blanket. Take liberties with the ingredients and personalize it however you please. Buy a roasted chicken at your grocery store to make this recipe quicker.

Make Ahead: Chopped salads can be prepped a day in advance if you store the ingredients separately in the refrigerator.

• 1 head romaine lettuce, chopped   
• 6 green onions, sliced   
• 3 tomatoes, diced   
• 1 large carrot, diced   
• 1 red bell pepper, finely chopped   
• 1 yellow bell pepper, finely chopped   
• 1 cucumber, peeled and diced   
• 1 can (14 to 19 oz/398 to 540 mL) chickpeas, drained and rinsed
• 1 lb fresh mozzarella cheese, diced   
• 1 lb bacon, cooked crisp and crumbled   
• 2 cups diced roasted chicken   
• 1/2 cup sliced cooked or drained canned red beets   
• 3/4 cup Blue Cheese Vinaigrette (see recipe below)   

Divide romaine among serving plates. Arrange green onions, tomatoes, carrot, red pepper, yellow pepper, cucumber, chickpeas, mozzarella, bacon, chicken and beets attractively on top. Serve with dressing on the side.

Easy Extras: This is the place to exercise your imagination. Add any ingredients that strike your fancy, such as artichoke hearts, corn kernels, edamame or other beans, almonds, pecans or sunflower seeds.

Blue Cheese Vinaigrette

From The Entertaining Encyclopedia: Essential Tips for Hosting the Perfect Party  by Denise Vivaldo, Robert Rose 2009.

MAKES 1 CUP (250 ML) or can be multiplied up to 4 times

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese   
1/4 cup champagne vinegar or seasoned rice vinegar
2 tsp Dijon mustard
1/4 tsp salt
Pinch freshly ground black pepper

In a food processor or blender, pulse oil, blue cheese, vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper until creamy.

Variation: The blue cheese can be replaced with feta, Gorgonzola or cream cheese.

Place servings of dressing in small containers with lids, such as Mason jars or disposable plastic condiment cups, and pack them with the salads so the dressing won't make the salad go to mush before you're ready to serve it.

Make Ahead: This dressing can be made up to 3 days in advance if refrigerated in an airtight container.

Spiced Lamb Kebabs

From The Entertaining Encyclopedia: Essential Tips for Hosting the Perfect Party  by Denise Vivaldo, Robert Rose 2009.

SERVES 6 or can be multiplied up to 4 times

The addition of cinnamon gives this dish a wonderfully exotic taste.

Tips: Kebabs can be served as sandwiches with flatbread.

If you prefer your lamb cooked to medium, broil or grill for 7 to  8 minutes; medium-well for 9 to 10 minutes; well for  11 to 12 minutes.

Twelve 12-inch (30 cm) metal or wooden skewers
2 1/2 lb boneless leg of lamb   
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tsp ground cumin   
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
Pinch cayenne pepper
1 red onion, cut into large pieces   

1. Trim fat from lamb and cut into 1 1/2-inch (4 cm) cubes.

2. In a sealable plastic bag, combine oil, cumin, black pepper, cinnamon and cayenne. Add lamb, seal and toss to coat. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight, shaking bag occasionally to redistribute marinade.

3. Preheat broiler, or preheat barbecue grill to medium-high. If using wooden skewers, soak them in water for 10 minutes.

4. Separate onion into pieces of 2 to 3 layers. Remove lamb from marinade, discarding marinade. Thread lamb and onion onto skewers, with 3 slices of onion between each piece of lamb. If broiling, place on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Broil or grill for 5 to 6 minutes, turning to sear all sides, until medium-rare, or until desired doneness.

Easy Extras: Add other vegetables with the onions: cubes of zucchini, sliced bell peppers or small pieces of eggplant would work well. Salt eggplant generously, drain for at least 1 hour and rinse well before using.
 

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