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FOODIE PAM

Making things from scratch

As far back as I can remember I've always wanted to make things from scratch.  In high school this manifested itself through baking - brownies, cookies, cakes, you name...

SOPHIA MARKOULAKIS

In Season: Rhubarb - more than just for pie

Rhubarb is one of those foods that you see and think, "Why would I eat that, let alone trouble myself with it in the kitchen?" It's got a lot...

HEATHER JONES

I am so excited about today’s featured Cookbook Author, Marie Simmons.  Very rarely do you find that an author that makes you want to run out and...

AMY SHERMAN

Remarkable Rum

Rum has a long history, with precursors dating all the way back to ancient India or China. But the modern and best known versions of rum are from the...

Thoroughly Modern Milkshakes

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ImageI've watched Adam Ried wax poetic on the pros and cons of various features of blenders, cookie sheets, and all sorts of other kitchen gadgets. Given his dedication to all things kitchen, I had high expectations of his book about milkshakes, a seemingly simple subject that after Adam's treatment, is not so simple after all. Fortunately, his book met my expectations in both detail and personality. Adam provides a similar attention to detail in his book as he does in his product reviews on America's Test Kitchen. All this with light-hearted, easy to read prose.

While "Thoroughly Modern Milkshakes" is, as the name suggests, a modern take on the milkshake, I was looking for a bit of taste nostalgia too... When I was very young I lived in New York City. One of my few strong memories of that time was when my parents would take me to my great-aunt's candy shop in Brooklyn. I'd sit at the counter and she'd make me an Egg Cream. Over the years I've lived in or visited most of the major (and quite a few of the minor) metropolitan areas in the United States, and had never had another milkshake quite like that. Of course, one of the first things I did when picking up Adam's book was to look to see if he listed an Egg Cream, made with milk, U-Bet (and only U-Bet) chocolate syrup, and seltzer water. Right there, in a special section at the end of the Introduction, was the Egg Cream!

ImageAlso nestled in the introduction are details on ingredients and various techniques. As with everything Adam Ried, milkshakes are serious business.  For example, Adam says that one of the keys to great milkshakes is using a combination of ice cream and sorbet for a rich flavoring. Not to disappoint fans of America's Test Kitchen, Adam spends the next chapter talking about equipment, especially the all important blender. After that, the book is broken down into Basic Shakes, Vanilla Shakes, Chocolate Shakes, and then additional variations with fruit, spice, tea and coffee, beer, and other ingredients. Going with one of the current culinary trends, there's even a milkshake with bacon.
 
All totaled, almost 100 different milkshakes are included. I'm not talking about a handful of milkshakes with the same variations over and over, there truly are that many different variations of milkshake. For my first milkshake I had to try a classic, but couldn't decide on chocolate or vanilla. Luckily, I found the VanBan Black & White Shake, which has layered chocolate and vanilla, with some banana thrown in for an extra kick. Delicious!

VanBan Black & White Shake

From Thoroughly Modern Milkshakes by Adam Ried.  W.W. Norton & Co. 2009.

I admit to taking liberties with the notion of black & white, which is commonly recognized as a shake made with chocolate syrup, the black, and vanilla ice cream, the white. Well, I couldn't shake (pun intended) the vision of New York black & white cookies; one half is frosted with chocolate fondant, and the other half with vanilla fondant. Both are present and accounted for, yet separate and distinct. So that is the route we'll take with our VanBan Black & White-separate and distinct chocolate and vanilla shakes, layered in the glass.

As if layering two flavors wasn't enough, I also give the vanilla portion of the program a little twist by adding some banana (hence the VanBan moniker), which goes so well with the chocolate. It's very helpful to have two blenders for this shake. If you don't, make one of the shakes first and store it in the refrigerator while you rush to make the second flavor.

MAKES ABOUT 3 1/2 CUPS | 28 OUNCES | 850 MILLILITERS

Place 1/4 cup of the milk, 1 teaspoon of the vanilla extract, and the banana in a blender and blend to mix thoroughly, about 30 seconds. Add the vanilla ice cream and pulse several times to begin breaking it up. With the blender motor off, use a flexible spatula to mash the mixture down onto the blender blades. Continue pulsing, stopping, and mashing until the mixture is well blended, thick, and moves easily in the blender jar, roughly 30 to 90 seconds. Pour the shake into a small pitcher, and refrigerate while making the other flavor (if you have two blenders, keep the shake in the blender jar).
If necessary, rinse the blender jar, shake out any excess water, and return it to the base. Place the remaining ¼ cup milk, the remaining 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract, and the chocolate ice cream and sorbet in the blender and pulse several times to begin breaking up the ice cream and sorbet. With the blender motor off, use a flexible spatula to mash the mixture down onto the blender blades. Continue pulsing, stopping, and mashing until the mixture is well blended, thick, and moves easily in the blender jar, roughly 30 to 90 seconds.

Into one or two tall, chilled glasses, pour a layer of VanBan shake, followed by a layer of chocolate, another layer of VanBan, another layer of chocolate, and finishing with a last layer of VanBan on top. Serve at once.

  • 1/2 cup cold whole or lowfat milk (about 4 ounces/125 milliliters)
  • 1 1/4 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
  • 1/2 ripe medium banana (2 to 3 ounces/57 to 85 grams), peeled and mashed
  • 4 medium scoops French vanilla ice cream (about 1 pint/12 ounces/340 grams), softened until just melty at the edges
  • 2 medium scoops chocolate ice cream (about 1/2 pint/6 ounces/170 grams), softened until just melty at the edges
  • 2 medium scoops chocolate sorbet (about 1/2 pint/6 ounces/170 grams), softened until just melty at the edges

About Thoroughly Modern Milkshakes

ImageAmerica's frosty favorite goes twenty-first century. Milkshake. Frappe. Cabinet. Velvet. Whatever you call it, the quintessentially American combination of milk, ice cream, and syrup has delighted generations, invoking memories of soda fountains and high-school sweethearts. In this collection of recipes, Adam Ried infuses the classic shake with unexpected flavor twists that bring the milkshake into the twenty-first century. 

Available from Amazon.com

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Down Home with the Neelys – A Southern Family Cookbook

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ImageUnless you are from Memphis or Nashville your first introduction to the Neelys and their infamous BBQ restaurants was probably through the Food Network, but this vivacious couple has been cooking up a storm together for over 15 years.  They love to cook and they love to eat; their new cookbook is a celebration of both.  High School sweethearts Pat & Gina Neely had their first foray into television when they were discovered by those handsome Deen Brothers (as in “my mama is Paula Deen”) on a Food Network special, next thing you know they were showing up in kitchens and living rooms across America on the Food Network, but trust me it wasn’t that easy.  This is a hard working family that has rightfully earned every bit of success they have.

Best known for their “Memphis” BBQ this latest venture isn’t your typical BBQ book, oh sure there is enough BBQ in it.  But it really is a family cookbook, almost like a scrapbook filled with photos of the couple and their family, personal anecdotes, and the story behind their restaurants. There are tons of recipes for good old fashioned southern food with a modern twist.  I am still working my way through this book, but already I can tell you that the Barbecue Spaghetti (see recipe below) and Two-Potato Salad with Creole Mustard, Bacon, and Arugula (see recipe below) are now family favorites.  Do yourself a favor and bring a little of that Neely’s southern charm into your home with this new cookbook, you will be so glad that you did.

Barbecue Spaghetti

From Down Home with the Neelys by Patrick and Gina Neely. Knopf 2009

Pat: A passion for pasta via Memphis equals . . . barbecue spaghetti?!? Initially, our customers were skeptical about trying this dish-that is, until Tony and I started giving out free samples to everyone who came through the door. After about two weeks, the sampling wasn't necessary, because people were hooked. These days we go through about 200 gallons of barbecue spaghetti a week; people from all over the country go wild for the tangy, saucy noodles tossed with smoky chunks of meat (it's become one of our best- selling dishes). And we promise, after making this dish, you'll understand why. Serve it as a side dish (with barbecued or roasted meats) or a meal.

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1/4 cup diced yellow onion
  • 1/2 cup diced green bell pepper
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 4 cups Neely's Barbecue Sauce (see below)
  • 2 pounds cooked spaghetti
  • 2 pounds smoked pork, beef, or chicken, coarsely chopped (see note)
  • Hot sauce, as desired (optional)

NOTE: You can also use grilled or roasted meat, although it won't deliver the same smoky flavor.

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, green pepper, and garlic, and cook, stirring frequently to prevent from sticking, until the vegetables have softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce heat to low, stir in the Neely's Barbecue Sauce, and simmer for about 5 minutes, until slightly reduced. When you're ready to serve the dish, add the spaghetti, smoked meat, and hot sauce, if desired, and toss well to combine.

SERVES 8 TO 10

Neely's Barbecue Sauce

From Down Home with the Neelys by Patrick and Gina Neely. Knopf 2009.

Pat: My brother Tony has a terrific palate, and his true genius is in having developed the right "tempo" for our barbecue sauce-and, boy oh boy, he never lets us forget it! This recipe, which includes Neely's Barbecue Seasoning and eleven other ingredients, became one of the keys to our success as restaurateurs. Now it can be the base of your own kitchen success. Memphis barbecue sauce is known for its sweet and tangy tomato base. Ours keeps true to that tradition, striking a perfect balance between the sweet (we use brown and white sugar), the tangy (cider vinegar), and the tomato base (good ole ketchup!). Any self-respecting Memphis pit master will tell you that the sauce must complement the meat without overpowering it, and ours does just that.

At the restaurant we simmer the sauce for five hours, and we always taste the blend before cooking it, making sure we've got all the ingredients working. Over the years, we've learned that if it tastes good before it cooks, it's gonna be outstanding after a long, slow simmer. The end result: an insanely thick, rich, and sweet sauce, and the perfect adornment for any rack anywhere.

  • 2 cups ketchup
  • 1 cup water
  • 1/4 cup brown sugar
  • 1/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons onion powder
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons dry mustard powder
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
  • 1/2 cup apple- cider vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons light corn syrup
  • 1 tablespoon Neely's Barbecue Seasoning

Combine all of the ingredients in a large pot or Dutch oven. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring frequently to prevent sticking. Reduce temperature to very low and simmer, uncovered, for at least 2 hours, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat, cool, and use as needed. Stored in a tightly sealed container, this sauce will keep in the fridge for up to 2 months.

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

NOTE: We never salt our Barbecue Sauce because of the sodium content in the ketchup and because other ingredients like onion powder and Worcestershire sauce provide so much flavor. Since our sauce is mostly used on grilled items (that are seasoned) and combined with other foods (like Barbecue Spaghetti and Molasses-Baked Beans), we don't want to end up with food that is too salty. So we error on the side of slightly underseasoning this sauce (although believe me, no one ever says that it lacks for flavor). If your taste buds yearn for a little more salt, you can season the sauce-at the end of the cooking time-as you please.

Two- Potato Salad with Creole Mustard, Bacon, and Arugula

From Down Home with the Neelys by Patrick and Gina Neely. Knopf 2009

Here's a more contemporary take on potato salad: Two kinds of potatoes give it eye appeal and a richer flavor. Tossing the potatoes with arugula and bacon adds a peppery crunch and plenty of smoky goodness (and you know how we feel about the smoke!)-and practically makes this salad a meal. Because sweet potatoes are so dense, and they take a few minutes longer to cook than regular potatoes, we cook them separately. This salad doubles easily for a party, and goes great with barbecued brisket or grilled sausages.

  • 4 strips thick- sliced smoked bacon
  • 1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1- inch cubes
  • 1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1- inch cubes
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 4 scallions, finely chopped
  • 2 celery stalks, finely chopped
  • 2 serrano chiles, stemmed, seeded, and minced
  • 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons mayonnaise
  • 2 tablespoons Creole mustard (see note)
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh
  • tarragon leaves
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 6 ounces arugula

Fry the bacon in a large skillet over medium heat until crisp and browned. Transfer the bacon to a plate lined with paper towels and set aside. Place the sweet potatoes and Yukon Gold potatoes in two separate saucepans. Cover the potatoes with water (by 2 inches), add 1?2 teaspoon salt to each pot, and bring the pots to a boil over medium- high heat. Reduce the heat, and simmer the potatoes until they are just cooked through and tender. The sweet potatoes will cook in about 15 minutes, and the Yukon Gold potatoes should be finished in about 12 minutes. Drain the potatoes, and allow them to cool. Combine the potatoes, scallions, celery, and serrano chiles in a large bowl. Add the mayonnaise, mustard, tarragon, salt, and pepper, and combine. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt or pepper, as desired. Toss the potato salad with the arugula, and serve on a large platter, garnished with the crumbled bacon.

SERVES 6 TO 8

NOTE: Creole mustard is a whole- grain mustard with a creamy texture and a zippy horseradish flavor. In other words, it's a mustard with a little extra kick, so it's right up our alley!

About Down Home with the Neelys

ImageThe Neelys' down-home approach to cooking has earned them the highest accolades from coast to coast. It has also won them millions of viewers on the Food Network. Simply put, the Neelys are all about good food and good times. In this, their eagerly awaited debut cookbook, the Neelys share the delicious food they have been cooking up for years both at home and in their restaurants.

Available at Amazon.com

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Family-Style Meals at the Hali'imaile General Store

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Image
Photography by Laurie Smith
'Planning a stay-cation this summer? Even when dining in your own backyard, there's no excuse for serving the same boring meals. This eclectic collection of family-friendly recipes just may be enough to transform your cement patio into a lush island paradise. Well, at least as far as your mouth is concerned.

Author-chef Beverly Gannon certainly has the credentials. In addition to running two very successful restaurants on Maui-The Hali'imaile General Store and Joe's in Wailea-she is a founding member and ardent supporter of the Hawai'i Regional Cuisine movement. Gannon also serves as the Executive Chef for Hawaiian Airlines and oversees Celebrations Catering. But with all her expertise in fancy foods, her first love is serving hearty meals to members of her family-both actual and extended.

A previous volume helped readers recreate the elegant meals served at The Hali'imaile General Store, but this book covers the subject closest to the author's heart: dishes scaled for family-style brunches, lunches, and suppers for 6 or more. Plenty of lush photographs add to its appeal.

Image
Photography by Laurie Smith
Just as our home meals are a conglomeration of dishes accumulated over our lifetimes, so are the author's; Gannon just has a more interesting collection than most of us. Her recipes are a glorious jumble of deliciousness, influenced by the cuisines of Asia, the Pacific, and the Hawaiian Islands…with a healthy dose of family favorites from her Texas childhood tossed in for good measure.

I'd be hard-pressed to name another single cookbook that includes such diverse selections as Hali'imaile Really Sticky Buns; Mexican Chicken Enchilada Casserole; Dynamite Salmon with Coconut Curry, Baby Bok Choy and Jasmine Rice; Braised Lamb Shanks with Goat Cheese Grits; Shiitake Mushroom Bread Pudding; Vanilla Crêpes with Caramelized Bananas and Tropical Fruit Salsa; and her family's favorite Noodle Kugel. What ties them all together is the author's love of big flavors and the generous spirit with which they are served.

So the next time a warm summer breeze wafts through your patio, make yourself a fancy umbrella drink, crank up the volume on that old Don Ho album, and wiggle your toes in the sandbox-soon you will realize it's time for some fine family meals, Hawaiian-style.

Corn, Edamame, and Jicama Slaw

Reprinted from Family-Style Meals at the Hali'imaile General Store by Beverly Gannon with Joan Namkoong. Photography by Laurie Smith. Copyright © 2009. Ten Speed Press, Berkeley, CA. www.tenspeed.com

Growing up in Texas, Mexican food was everywhere. Once I fell in love with it, I loved-and still love-to cook it. I love each element in this dish-the jicama, mint, sweet corn, and edamame, and together they're terrific. In the summer when corn is the sweetest, it can be rubbed with the olive oil and cooked on the grill, cooled, and then taken off the cob. Add the lime juice to the bowl of warm corn kernels and then cool.

  • 2 ears fresh corn
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1/2 cup cooked and shelled edamame (green soybeans)
  • 2 tablespoons, plus 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice
  • 1/2 cup mayonnaise
  • 1/2 cup sour cream
  • 1 tablespoon ground cumin
  • Zest of 1 lime
  • 2 pounds jicama, peeled and julienned to a medium width
  • 2 cups thinly shredded Chinese cabbage
  • 1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
  • 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh mint
  • Salt
  • Freshly ground white pepper
  • Mint sprigs, for garnish

1. With a knife, remove the corn kernels from the cob; you should have 1 cup of corn kernels.

2. In a sauté pan over high heat, add the olive oil and heat for 1 minute. Add the corn kernels and sauté for one minute. Add the edamame and sauté for one minute. Add one tablespoon of the lime juice, stir, and remove from the heat. Transfer the corn and edamame into a strainer over a bowl and set aside to drain and cool.

3. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, sour cream, cumin, lime zest, and the remaining 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons of lime juice.

4. In a large mixing bowl, toss together the jicama, cabbage, cilantro, and mint. Add the mayonnaise mixture and blend well. Add the corn and edamame and mix well. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with sprigs of fresh mint to serve.

Serves 6

Kona Mud Pie

Reprinted from Family-Style Meals at the Hali'imaile General Store by Beverly Gannon with Joan Namkoong. Photography by Laurie Smith. Copyright © 2009. Ten Speed Press, Berkeley, CA. www.tenspeed.com

When I first moved to Hawai'i, I had a mud pie at the Chart House in Honolulu and loved it. This is my version of it: a chocolaty crust, brownies, and coffee ice cream, and then I top it with hot fudge sauce. The best thing is that you can make this dessert, keep it in the freezer, and have dessert for a few days. That is, of course, if it doesn't get eaten the first night!

Brownies

  • 1/4 cup butter
  • 2 ounces semisweet chocolate chips
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1/2 cup flour
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 cup diced macadamia nuts     

Pie Crust

  • 2 cups Oreo cookie crumbs, about
  • 12 cookies
  • 1/4 cup butter, melted

1/2 gallon coffee ice cream
Hot fudge or caramel sauce, for garnish
Whipped cream, for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F.

2. Grease and flour a 9 by 9-inch cake pan.

3. To prepare the brownies, in a microwavable bowl, melt the butter. Stir in the chocolate to melt the morsels and blend together.

4. In a large mixing bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the eggs, sugar, and vanilla for 1 minute, or until well blended. Add the melted chocolate and beat until the chocolate is incorporated. Mix in the flour and salt until well blended. With a rubber spatula, fold in the macadamia nuts. Pour the mixture into the pan and bake for 25 to 30 minutes.

5. Remove the brownies from the oven; keep the oven on. Cool the brownies, then cut them into 1/2-inch squares and set aside.

6. To prepare the crust, in a medium bowl, mix the Oreo crumbs and butter. Press the mixture into the bottom of a 10-inch springform pan. Bake for 7 minutes. Remove from the oven. Cool, then place the crust in the freezer until frozen.

7. To make the filling, cut the ice cream into small chunks. (This will help prevent straining the mixer.) In a large mixing bowl, using an electric mixer with a paddle attachment, add half of the coffee ice cream chunks and turn the mixer on. Mix for 1 minute, then add the rest of the chunks slowly. Continue to mix until the ice cream is smooth.

8. Using a rubber spatula, fold the brownie chunks into the ice cream, being careful not to smash up the brownies. Pour the ice cream mixture into the Oreo crust, smoothing the top. Return the pan to the freezer and freeze overnight.

9. To serve, release the sides of the springform pan and transfer the pie to a serving plate. Cut the pie into wedges and serve with hot fudge or caramel sauce, and whipped cream.

Makes 1 (10-inch) pie

About Family-Style Meals at the Hali'imaile General Store

Image On the road to Haleakala, Maui's most famous dormant volcano, is one of the island's favorite destinations--where a laid-back atmosphere and top-flight menu welcome both residents and tourists. Developed from the restaurant's ever-popular repertoire, this all-new recipe collection is scaled for sit-down family suppers, lunches, and brunches, with built-in expandability for impromptu gatherings or full-on entertaining. Ingredient substitutions are included to help move dishes from the kitchen to the table with ease, and leftovers are skillfully adapted into future meals. Recipes are organized by the days of the week, based on a schedule Gannon's mother used, and are interwoven with charming family anecdotes.

Available from Amazon.com

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Cocktail hour is here!

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ImageI enjoy cocktails, and with each newly published cocktail book I hope to find new exciting drinks to try out.  Unfortunately, those new drinks are often very elaborate to make - as much as I like to cook I'm not really interested in spending hours preparing a cocktail so I can relax!   

I was pleasantly surprised to find the cocktail recipes in Sips & Apps by Kathy Casey were not overly complicated while still using some neat flavor enhancing ingredients such as jalapeño, thyme, pears, and beets to create new and exiting drinks.  That's because Kathy Casey uses the ingredients raw rather than cooked or processed.  In fact many of her drink recipes only add a small step of cutting the non-liquid components so the overall task of making the drink isn't much longer than without the added ingredient.  Lots of the cocktail recipes appealed to me.  For the fall I can't wait to make the Pear Thyme Fizz, but for a nice summertime cocktail the Strawberry Shag (recipe below) is my pick.

ImageWhile I remain firm that I don't want to cook in order to make a cocktail I am making an exception for Kathy's Ginger Sake Cocktail "Sushi".  This is a cocktail you eat rather than drink. It looks like a bit of sushi and functions more like an appetizer than a drink (which is why I'm ok with bending my no cooking rule).   It's made from gelatin with a hefty dose of vodka that forms a square and sits atop a cucumber slice.  You won't want to serve too many to your guests, but then again you won't need too since after one look (and bite) they'll be impressed.

Last but not least, Sips & Apps has some great appetizers.  You see, Kathy Casey is a chef and mixologist who used both those skills to create this fun book.  In the first half of the book she focuses on the cocktails and the second half appetizers.  To link the two together, she refers to suitable appetizers for many of the cocktails - what better way to create a cocktail party than with paired appetizers and cocktails!  For example, the Pear Thyme Fizz is paired with the Roasted Pear Crostini with Gorgonzola.  Others include the Douglas Fir Sparkletini paired with D'Lish Peppadew Peppers (goat cheese stuffed peppers) or Red Square Martine paired with Mini Scallion Biscuits with Smoked Salmon Spread & Pickled Onions.  All of which makes Sips & Apps both a great cocktail recipe book and a great cocktail party book!

Strawberry Shag

From Sips & Apps by Kathy Casey, Chronicle Books 2009

Fresh basil lends a fun flavor note to the classic combination of strawberries and lemonade. Soda water introduces a lively sparkle.

Makes 1 drink

  • 1 to 2 large sprigs fresh basil
  • 1/4 cup Sugared Strawberries, with juice (recipe follows)
  • 1 1/2 ounces vodka
  • 1 ounce fresh lemon juice
  • 3 to 4 ounces chilled soda water

For garnishing

  • Fresh strawberry
  • Small basil leaf

In a cocktail shaker, press the basil and strawberries together with a muddler to release the basil's flavor. Fill the shaker with ice. Measure in the vodka and lemon juice. Cap and shake vigorously. Pour into a large glass, top with soda water, and stir. Garnish with a strawberry and basil leaf.

Sugared Strawberries

From Sips & Apps by Kathy Casey, Chronicle Books 2009

Makes enough for about 6 drinks

  • 1 pint fresh strawberries, stemmed and thinly sliced
  • 1 1/2 cups powdered sugar

Mix the ingredients and let sit for 15 minutes before using.

Ginger Sake Cocktail "Sushi"

From Sips & Apps by Kathy Casey, Chronicle Books 2009

Makes 25 to 30

These sophisticated little "hip sips" can be eaten in one bite, like sushi.  They're super-fun to pass at a party along with appetizers.  Just don't eat too many - they're quite potent!

  • 3 (1/4-ounce) packets Knox unflavored gelatin
  • 6 ounces sake
  • 10 ounces simple syrup
  • 1 tablespoon very finely minced peeled fresh ginger
  • 12 ounces vodka
  • 6 ounces fresh lime juice

For garnishing

  • 25 to 30 thin slices cucumber
  • Edible gold flakes
  • Tiny-julienne candied ginger (optional)

In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over the sake and let soak for 5 minutes to bloom the gelatin.

In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the simple syrup and ginger just to a boil.  Remove from the heat.  Add the gelatin and sake mixture, and stir to completely dissolve the gelatin.  Stir in the vodka and lime juice.

Carefully pour the mixture into a plastic wrap-lined 8-inch-square glass baking dish.  Cover tightly with plastic wrap, not touching the liquid surface, and refrigerate until the gelatin is completely set, preferably overnight.

To serve, unmold the gelatin onto a parchment- or wax paper-lined baking sheet.  Remove the plastic wrap and cut gelatin into desired shapes.  (I like to use a 1-inch round cutter or to cut the gelatin into squares.)  Serve each piece on a slice of cucumber, and top with a tiny sprinkle of gold and/or ginger, if using.

About Sips & Apps

ImageWhen it comes to cocktails and appetizers chef Kathy Casey is an expert at balancing flavors and textures. Sips & Apps has 100 recipes that include not only classics like the Martini and Manhattan but also creative new concoctions like the Douglas Fir Sparkletini and the Blue Thai Mojito. Appetizers include simple finger foods like Roasted Pear Crostini with Gorgonzola and ChaCha Cashews and more substantial treats like Asian Shrimp Cakes with Sweet Chili Sauce. Lots of info on stocking a home bar and plenty of techniques and extras (like a nifty double ribbon marker labeled "sips" and "apps") make it easy to match up the right sip with the right app.

Available at Amazon.com

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A Delcious Career - Cookbook Author Marie Simmons

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ImageI am so excited about today’s featured Cookbook Author, Marie Simmons.  Very rarely do you find that an author that makes you want to run out and get every single thing she’s ever written. 

I know for me this is the first time it’s happened outside of the fiction genre.

ImageImageFor those of you who aren’t familiar with Marie Simmons, she took the food world by storm with her James Beard Award winning book “The Good Egg”, but she was creating great recipes long before then.  Marie holds a degree in food and nutrition from the Pratt Institute in New York and has written/co-written over 20 cookbooks.  She wrote a monthly column for Bon Appetit magazine for over 18 years (“Cooking for Health”) and was writing about “Fresh & Fast” meals for the Los Angeles Times Syndicate long before the age of the 30 minute meal. 

Not only is Marie a prolific food writer, but she is also a Cooking Instructor, and she has taught hundreds of classes all across the country including the Sur La Table Cooking Schools.  Her latest book “Things Cooks Love: Implements, Ingredients, Recipes” is the first cookbook ever written for the popular retailer.   She has also made several television appearances as well on programs such as Good Morning America, CNN Cooking 101, and CBS This Morning.

Recently, I had the pleasure of speaking with Marie about her career and her love of food.  Marie was kind enough to share some of her favorite recipes with me too.  Keep reading to find out more about this sensational food personality.

Heather:  Marie, it sounds like you were a real foodie before being a foodie became the “in” thing so tell me about your culinary journey?

Marie Simmons: For as long as I can remember back into my childhood, I loved being in the kitchen. I was especially fond of my grandmother and would spend hours on Saturdays baking and hanging out with her. We drank weak tea (two cups one tea bag) and chatted up a storm. Today I think I am a lot like her. But I digress. I grew up in an Italian family of great cooks. Everyone cooked. Everyone got along. We all loved family gatherings. It was always about the food, love of family and lots of laughter. We were 17 grandchildren on my Mom’s side. Only 4 girls and I was the only one who liked to hang out in the kitchen. My mentor in high school was my Aunt who was the Home Ec teacher. She greatly influenced my college major, foods and nutrition, and my goal to work in a magazine test kitchen. I met my husband in college and he was a foods (restaurant management) major also. We’ve been married forever. Our lives, our friends, everything we do is always about the food.

Heather: You’ve written quite a few single subject cookbooks, Fig Heaven, The award-winning The Good Egg (my personal favorite), 365 Ways to Cook Pasta, The Amazing World of Rice.  What food would you like to focus on for a future cookbook, pomegranate perhaps?
 
Marie Simmons: I love pomegranates, but I think I’m off the single subject theme for awhile. I really wanted to do a book on whole grains, but that field is covered for the moment. I think my next book (or maybe books) will take a broader look at my style and love of food and cooking.

Heather: Speaking of The Good Egg, how has your career changed since winning that James Beard award?

Marie Simmons: The truth is that awards offer benefits in more subtle ways than one would think. I’m proud of that award, simply because it recognized the sincere effort and caring that went into those pages. The real benefit of winning a cookbook award is the peer recognition. The recognition isn’t always in the form of personal recognition, but in recognizing the work (or the book). For me, that’s really what it all about. Cooks and chefs who have never met me and perhaps don’t know my name have The Good Egg on the shelf in their kitchen. I’m proud of the award, but I mostly proud of the book.

Heather: You recently penned Sur La Table’s first cookbook “Things Cooks Love” and you guest blogged on Project Foodie about some of your own favorite tools, but I’m curious if you could only have just one kitchen gadget/appliance what would it be?

Marie Simmons: I guess if I could only have one (gosh, this is hard) it would be a sharp knife. Not necessarily a chef’s knife, but a good sharp, well balanced long blade utility knife that I could use to cut cheese, spread butter, cut up a peach or an onion.

Heather: In 1996 you published a gem of a book called “Fresh and Fast”, some would say you were well ahead of the mainstream as now we are inundated with books on seasonal cooking and getting dinner on the table under 30 minutes, what was your inspiration for this book?

Marie Simmons: Thank you for calling F & F a gem. That’s so nice to hear. The inspiration for Fresh & Fast was/is my life. That book is 101% me and the way I like to cook. People are still buying it and I’m still looking through it myself searching for recipes for classes or something to cook. The longevity of F & F is amazing.

Heather: I have a couple of quick fire questions for you.  Sweets or Savory? What is your favorite Sweet or Savory Dish?

Marie Simmons: I favor savory over sweet so I’ll answer savory first:  Anything with melted cheese or anything with cheese. I love, love, love cheese. My fave: a grilled Comte cheese and bacon or ham sandwich.

Sweet: I’m not a big dessert or cake fan. I love oatmeal cookies, but for a treat I’m a huge dried fruit fan: Dried cherries, figs, prunes, cranberries, even golden raisins. If it's fruit and it’s dried I crave it.

Heather: Local or Organic?  Given what we know about food production in this country what is more important to you, buying organic or buying locally produced ingredients?

Marie Simmons:  Both are very important to me. I buy organic when it’s available, but local is also important. If I had to choose between an organic product that has been shipped from afar and a local non-organic product I think I would first consider the quality and then select the local. On the other hand if both products were local, I’d select the organic.

Heather: Who is your favorite cookbook & cookbook author
 
Marie Simmons:  For pure enjoyment I love the old Elizabeth David and Jane Grigson books. I don’t necessarily cook from them, but I love to read them. For recipes and reference, I tend to go to books by trusted friends and colleagues. For chocolate I’ll look in Alice Medrich’s wonderful books. For Italian I’ll look in Marcella Hazan or a good friend from NYC, Michele Scicolone’s books. For cheese, Janet Fletcher. For meat, Bruce Aidells’ books. You get the picture. I have a library of hundreds of books, but I must say there are only about 20 books I keep within arms distance for easy reference.

Heather:  What’s next for you? Will you be joining the ranks of TV chef celebrities soon?

Marie Simmons:  That’s funny. Unless I get a call from the AARP station (Is there one? I doubt it!) I have a feeling I’ll just keep doing what I do and loving it. I have no desire to be a celebrity. Never have. I just like to cook and to feed people. I’m deeply grateful that I’ve been able to build a career and earn a living doing what I love. 

Heather:  Thank you so much Marie for taking the time to speak with us. I know I'm not only speaking for myself when I say that you and your work are truly culinary inspiration.

We also asked Marie to share with us some of her favorite recipes, here are a few of her choices...

Italian Stuffed Eggs with Parsley and Olive Oil

From The Good Egg by Marie Simmons, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt 2000

Tim Biancalana, a talented cook and friend, suggested this recipe. The most important ingredient is the olive oil. It makes the yolks light and creamy, and the olive flavor comes through loud and clear.

  • 4 large eggs, hard-cooked, peeled and halved lengthwise
  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • 1/4 teaspoon minced garlic
  • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • Paprika (optional)

1. Carefully remove the yolks from the whites. Place the whites cut side up on a plate. With the back of a spoon, press the yolks through a sieve into a small bowl, or mash them in the bowl with a fork. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil, 1 tablespoon of the parsley, the garlic, salt and a generous grinding of pepper. Mash with a fork until blended. Using a wooden spoon, gradually beat in the remaining 2 tablespoons oil until the yolk mixture is smooth and fluffy. Taste and add more salt or pepper, if desired.

2. Using a teaspoon, carefully stuff the whites with the yolk mixture, mounding the tops. Sprinkle the tops of the stuffed eggs with the remaining 1 tablespoon parsley and paprika, if desired. Serve at room temperature or chilled.

Makes 4 servings

Oven-Roasted Halibut with Herb Citrus Vinaigrette

From Fresh & Fast by Marie Simmons, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt 2004

Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 10 to 12 minutes
Serves: 4

This recipe demonstrates the quick, foolproof method of roasting thick cuts of fish in a very hot over (450-degree) for 10 minutes per inch. Then the fish is "dressed" with a piquant mixture of lemon juice, fresh herbs, grated lemon and orange zest and bits of sun-dried tomato. For a change, add a few capers and vary the fresh herbs to taste. This preparation can also be used for salmon, cod or swordfish.

  • 4 pieces halibut steak or thick portion of fillet, 3/4 inch thick (about 6 ounces each)
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Herb Citrus Vinaigrette

  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 2 tablespoons ice water
  • 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
  • 1/2 teaspoon grated orange zest
  • 1 small clove garlic, crushed through a press
  • 1 tablespoon minced sun-dried tomato (packed in oil or dry and reconstituted in boiling water for 5 minutes)
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
  • 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, stripped from the stems
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • 4 very thin slices of lemon, for garnish (optional)
  • Herb sprigs, for garnish (optional)


1. Preheat the oven to 450 degrees F. Arrange the fish in a large baking pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bake just until the center turns from translucent to opaque, 10 to 12 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, make the Herb Citrus Vinaigrette: Whisk together the oil, lemon juice, water, lemon and orange zests and garlic. Stir in the sun-dried tomato, parsley, dill and thyme; add salt and pepper.


3. Transfer the fish to a platter or individual serving plates and spoon the vinaigrette on top. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature, garnish with lemon slices and herb sprigs if using.

Peach and Blueberry Crisp with Toasted Almonds

From Fresh & Fast by Marie Simmons, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt 2004

Preparation time: 20 minutes
Baking time: 50 minutes
Serves: 6 to 8

I make this crisp all the time in July and August, when peaches and blueberries are in season. To save time, substitute nectarines for the peaches, since the skins don't need to be peeled. In midwinter, this crisp topping of oats, brown sugar, flour and butter perfectly complements apples and pears. Just slice hard fruits thin so that they will cook in the same time it takes to brown the crisp topping. Serve warm, topped with heavy cream, ice cream or frozen yogurt.

  • 1/2 cup whole natural (with skins) almonds, coarsely chopped
  • 8 large peaches
  • 2 tablespoons plus 1/3 cup all-purpose flour
  • 2 tablespoons plus 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1 pint (2 cups) blueberries, rinsed, sorted, drained on a paper towel
  • 1 cup quick-cooking (not instant) oats
  • Pinch salt
  • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
  • Heavy cream, vanilla ice cream, or frozen vanilla yogurt


1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Spread the almonds in a shallow pan and bake until lightly toasted, about 10 minutes. Set aside to cool; leave the oven on.

2. Half fill a large saucepan with water and heat to boiling. Have ready a large bowl half filled with cold tap water and a few ice cubes. Place the peaches in the boiling water and let sit for 3 minutes in the simmering water to loosen their skins. Transfer the peaches to the cold water. Let sit for 2 minutes. Lift the peaches out of the water and slip off the skins. Cut the peaches into large wedges and discard the pits.

3. In a large bowl, combine the 2 tablespoons flour, 2 tablespoons of the brown sugar and cinnamon; stir to blend. Add the peaches and stir to coat. Spread the peaches and blueberries in a shallow (13-x-9-inch) rectangular baking dish.

4. In a separate bowl, combine the toasted almonds, oats, remaining 1/3 cup flour, remaining 1/2 cup brown sugar and salt; stir to blend. Add the butter and work it into the oat mixture, using a fork or fingertips, until crumbly. Sprinkle evenly over the peaches.

5. Bake until the top is browned and crisp and the peaches are bubbly, about 35 minutes. Serve warm, topped with cream, ice cream or frozen yogurt.
 

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Making things from scratch

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ImageAs far back as I can remember I've always wanted to make things from scratch.  In high school this manifested itself through baking - brownies, cookies, cakes, you name it I baked it.  Unlike the box mixes my mom used when I was growing up, I baked things from scratch as early as I can remember; and I was dang proud of it.  

The irony is that when I was growing up my mom made lots of other things from scratch - canned vegetables, canned tomatoes, homemade jams, jellies and more.  But, I never appreciated any of it - what she did was a necessity; use of the garden bounty, not something done for taste, quality, or even fun.  

All grown-up, and hopefully more mature, I now wish I'd paid more attention and gave mom credit for all her hard word.  Over the past couple of years the urge to follow in my mom's footsteps has grown stronger. This is partly out of necessity and partly out of desire.   During the summer, I seek uses for my bounty of home grown fruits and vegetables.  During the winter, I yearn for canned tomatoes from my own garden rather than mass produced tomatoes.  

While the reward of using your own garden vegetables throughout the year is one aspect of making things from scratch, one can easily do the same with produce from the local farmers' market.  And it doesn't end with fresh fruit and vegetables - I've made my own corned beef and would like to cure my own fish and make my own sausages.  In fact, the range of things one can 'make from scratch' is amazingly broad.  

As luck would have it, this year several cookbooks are out aimed at helping with just that.  OK - so luck really doesn't have that much to do with it.  As I observed while growing up, making things yourself can help the pocket book making the books very timely.  But, whether or not it is by necessity, as you'll discover in the following books, making things yourself is fun and produces some great foodie creations.

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In "Preserved " by Nick Sandler and Johnny Acton, you can learn how to preserve a wide range of items including meat, fish, vegetables and fruit through techniques such as drying, smoking, salting, pickling, infusing, fermenting, canning and freezing.  The book is a great read even if you don't ever make any of the items, but I found several things I can't wait to make including my own cured meats, sausages, dried veggies and infused oils.
The dried tomatoes (see below), in particular, sang out to me.  The method is simple and Nick and Johnny offer several options for how you can build your own 'drier' using not much more than a light bulb and a box.  In addition to the broad range of techniques and types of food explored in Preserved, one thing I really like is that they not only present the details on how to 'preserve' something but they also give a recipe that uses the item.  Although I do wish they'd have provided more than one recipe per item, that choice is understandable given they present details on 'preserving' more than 100 items.

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"Jam it, Pickle it, Cure it " by Karen Solomon presents a broad range of  'make-it-from-scratch' home cooking projects.  Karen shows how to make items as diverse as potato chips, ketchup, pasta dough, cured fish and meat, butter and even marshmallows.

Again thinking of my tomato plants, the recipe for homemade ketchup caught my eye as a great use for garden excess. But, if you're looking for something to try before the excess of tomatoes arrive then the potato chips are a great option - both fried and baked versions are provided (see below).  It's that kind of detail and breadth of items that Karen presents that I really liked about "Jam it, Pickle it, Cure it".

And if you're wondering what about ways to can?  While both of the above books mention canning and provide a recipe or two, these books do not focus on that aspect of preserving.  But don't worry, I'll be sharing some books that do focus on canning in an upcoming post…

Dried Tomatoes

ImageExcerpted from Preserved by Nick Sandler and Johnny Acton, Kyle Books 2009.

In recent times, sun- and semi-dried tomatoes have become indispensable to cooks wherever they happen to live. But unless you can reliably predict several days of breezy weather with low humidity and daytime temperatures in excess of 90°F, which is rarely where we live, you'll have to fall back on other methods. As usual, the chief options are using a dehydrator, a low oven with the door ajar, or your homemade drying box. An ingenious alternative is to place a rack of tomatoes on the shelf under your car's rear window on a hot day.

Fully Dried Tomatoes

Drying times will vary according to the size of your tomatoes, but as a rule of thumb, 15 hours in a low oven or 30 in a drying box is about right. However, tomatoes in any given batch will not dry at exactly the same rate, so you need to remove them individually as they become ready. This is when they are firm but no longer juicy.
    
Whichever method you use, you have two main choices. The first is to cut the tomatoes in half and lay them face up on a fine-meshed rack, sprinkling a few grains of sea salt or kosher salt on each face. The second is to dry them intact on the vine. This involves laying the tomatoes on a similar rack, vine stalk down, before cutting a small cross on the top of each and filling it with a pinch of salt.

Once dried, tomatoes can be stored at ambient temperatures in sealable containers for up to six months. Before use, they will need to be rehydrated by soaking in warm water for half an hour. Dried tomatoes should always be cooked before they are eaten.

Semi-Dried Tomatoes

As the name suggests, semi-dried tomatoes are removed from the source of heat halfway through the drying process. They are then packed into sterilized containers that are filled with olive oil. These will keep in the fridge for up to six months. They are moist and more than good enough to incorporate in stews, sandwiches, and sauces without further ado. We've achieved our best results using various varieties of cherry tomatoes.

 

Baked Potato Chips

From Jam it, Pickle it, Cure it by Karen Solomon. Ten Speed Press 2009

Makes about 5 ounces

Time Commitment: 1 hour

The snack world is rife with doodles, twists, and puffs, but nothing can hold a candle to an honest-to-goodness homemade potato chip. For the full-fat version, skip ahead to the Fried Potato Chips recipe. If you are among the calorie conscious, this incredibly low-fat option delivers satisfying salt and crunch without the heft of the Fry Daddy. You will need mad knife skills and a surgeon's touch to slice potatoes thin enough by hand, so I recommend a mandoline for the job. Satisfy the snackers in your world with a gift of chips: wrap them in an attractive cellophane bag or a towel-lined basket, and take them to your next social gathering.
1 pound russet or waxy potatoes
Kosher salt
Instructions:  Preheat the oven to 300°F. Oil 2 large baking sheets with neutral vegetable oil.

Scrub, dry, and slice the potatoes about 1/16 inch thick. Peel them or don't.
Arrange the sliced potatoes in a single layer, covering as much of the sheet as possible, but don't let them touch. Do the same for the second sheet. Discard any slices that aren't whole or uniform in thickness.

Bake for 40 minutes, or until the chips are thoroughly dried throughout, testing the center of each chip for doneness. Sprinkle with salt to taste.

Transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely.

How to Store It: Keep chips crisp in a sealable plastic bag or airtight container. They will keep for 1 month.

Fried Potato Chips

From Jam it, Pickle it, Cure it by Karen Solomon. Ten Speed Press 2009
Makes about 6 ounces

Time Commitment: 3 hours

Unlike the Baked Potato Chips, these are the real deal: crisp, flavorful, and as good as the ones in a crinkly sack, without the extra packaging and corporate gouging. Stick to russet potatoes, which produce the most crispness and the least amount of splatter. Although I recommend soaking the sliced potatoes in water before cooking them, which will result in superior chips, you can skip this step if your schedule doesn't allow it. An inexpensive candy or frying thermometer, available at cookware stores, is essential to maintain the right temperature, which will keep the taste quotient of these chips flying high. While you can use any large saucepan or deep skillet for frying, I recommend a wok since it provides the greatest surface area for the potatoes while requiring the least amount of oil for frying.

Prep Ahead:  Spread plenty of clean kitchen towels or newspapers on a work surface-you will need them to drain and dry the potatoes. In addition, have a large amount of oil on hand: depending on the size of your saucepan or wok, you will likely go through several cups.
1 pound russet potatoes (about 3)
2 to 4 cups vegetable oil
Kosher salt
Instructions:  Scrub and dry the potatoes. Peel, or don't-I like my chips with the skin on. Slice very thinly, about 1/16 inch thick. You should almost be able to see through them. Let them soak, covered in cold water, for
1 to 2 hours.

Drain and dry thoroughly on clean kitchen towels.

In a wok or deep skillet with a candy or frying thermometer attached, heat at least 2 inches of oil on medium-high heat, adjusting the heat as necessary to keep the oil at 375° to 395°F. While the oil heats up, cover a nearby countertop with plenty of dry newspaper or kitchen towels.

When the oil is ready, make sure the potatoes are completely dry, and add a single layer of potato slices to the hot oil. Fry for 4 to 7 minutes, depending on their thickness, flipping several times with a wooden spoon or spatula, until very brown on both sides. Remove the chips from the oil with a slotted spoon, leaving as much oil behind as possible, and let drain on newspaper or kitchen towels. Sprinkle with salt to taste, or immediately toss with one of the flavor add-on variations.

How to Store It:  While still delicious, chips that aren't thoroughly fried will not keep, so make sure each chip is crisp in the middle and completely cooled before storing. Crisp chips will last in an airtight container up to 1 month.

Variations:
Cheese and Herb Chips: Combine 3 tablespoons nutritional yeast, 3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese, 11/2 teaspoons dried rosemary, 11/2 teaspoons dried oregano, and 1 tablespoon salt in a large sealable plastic bag. While the chips are still warm, but thoroughly drained, place one-third of the chips in the bag at a time and shake well enough to coat. Let them continue to cool and, if desired, add additional salt.
BBQ Potato Chips:  In a large sealable plastic bag, combine 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, 1/2 teaspoon liquid smoke, 1 tablespoon molasses, 1 large minced garlic clove (use a garlic press if you have one), and 1 tablespoon kosher salt. While the chips are still warm, but thoroughly drained, place one-third of the chips in the bag at a time and shake well enough to coat. Lay the chips in a single layer to dry and cool thoroughly. If desired, add additional salt.

Sweet Potato Chips:  Substitute sweet potatoes for russets. Fry as instructed above (without first soaking in water). Note that they cook faster-in about 3 minutes. Sweet potato chips are more delicate and cannot withstand being shaken with additional ingredients, so simply sprinkle them with salt, sugar, cayenne pepper, or all three.

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Summer Reading List

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ImageLooking for something to do this summer that is relaxing and entertaining? How about reading a good book?  Of course as foodies, a good book that is food related would be icing on the cake.  That's why we've created the Project Foodie Summer Reading List.

We've included in our Summer Reading List some tried and true, food related literature classics, along with some newer food literature books that we've recently enjoyed.  And since we'll also be busy reading (er I mean relaxing) this summer with several books we've also listed some new releases that we're in the middle of enjoying and think you'll enjoy as well.

Unlike the summer reading lists the kids come home with, however, we're not assigning you to read all the books in the list and book reports are definitely not required! (Although, if you want to leave a comment and tell what your favorites are that would be great).

So, if you're looking for a good read (or a few) this summer take a look at our Summer Reading List and then sit back and enjoy a good read this summer.

The Classics...

 

Home Cooking & More Home Cooking - Laurie Colwin

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Laurie Colwin, novelist and columnist for Gourmet magazine, who died suddenly in 1992 at the young age of 48, wrote two of the most well-loved and well-known collection of stories that capture the essence of life through food.  Laurie had a wonderful way of writing about the pure joy of being in the kitchen and the relationships that we build based on our love of food.  Her books are two of my favorites. I have read them over and over again. - selected by Heather Jones
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The Art of Eating - by MFK Fisher   

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An extraordinary collection of stories written by one of Americas greatest food writers.  Her essays are mostly autobiographical and her passion for food shines through in every word.  Imagine yourself sitting on the beach with the kids reading about MFK's adventures in France.  This book brings together five of her previously published works, "Serve it Forth", "Consider the Oyster", "How to Cook a Wolf", "The Gastronomical Me" (my personal favorite), and "An Alphabet for Gourmets". - selected by Heather Jones

Recent Releases...

 

A Homemade Life - Molly Wizenberg

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I often tell people that Molly's work is a delightful combination of Laurie Colwin and MFK Fisher.  Writer and creator of the award winning blog Orangette, Molly Wizenberg will share with you some of the most important moments of her life and the delicious meals that accompanied them.  Through love and loss and everything in between, she will have you rushing to the kitchen anxious to cook while reminiscing about your own memorable moments.  - selected by Heather Jones

Too Many Cooks - Emily Franklin

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Best known for her bestselling young adult novels, Emily Franklin switches things up a bit by chronicling a year in the life of her family (husband, and four kids under 10) and their many cooking and eating adventures.  She will have you laughing out loud with her "keep it real" attitude about cooking and feeding kids.  Any parent that's ever struggled with feeding their children will find themselves cheering Emily on from start to finish.  - selected by Heather Jones

Spiced by Dalia Jurgensen

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Dalia chronicles her rise from an office worker without any culinary training to an executive pastry chef.  Along the way she tells stories from some of New York's best restaurants that give you a birds eye view of life in the kitchen.   Dalia will entice you, entertain you and have you craving to read more as you turn the pages eager to see what she does where and how she rises to the top. - selected by Foodie Pam

Julie and Julia by Julie Powell

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This hilarious memoir, soon to be a movie directed by Nora Ephron, should be on everyone's summer reading list.  The story begins when Julie Powell, a lowly temp secretary in New York City who is pushing thirty and still doesn't know what she wants to do with her life, embarks on the Julie/Julia Project-cooking every meal in Julia Child's "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" in one year.  She recounts each hilarious, tasty and harrowing (think boiling live lobsters for the first time) trial in her blog, which becomes an internet sensation and leads to great success as a writer.    - selected by Meredith Adams

Watching What We Eat - Kathleen Collins

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Author, researcher, and librarian Kathleen Collins has taken all of her research training and brought together a well-written, comprehensive book about the history of cooking shows on radio and television.  A must read for any die-hard lover of Food TV.  If you liked David Kamp's United States of Arugula you will love "Watching What We Eat."  - selected by Heather Jones

Hungry Monkey by Matthew Amster-Burton

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A laugh-out-loud funny book that has bits of kitchen wisdom and recipes to boot. Enjoy the pleasures of food and parenting without even changing one diaper. - selected by Amy Sherman   

 

The Sharper the Knife The Less You Cry by Kathleen Flinn

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You may be sitting by the pool this summer, but this book will transport you to a legendary Parisian cooking school. Kathleen Flinn shares recipes, her all too human stumbles, and inevitable romantic and culinary triumphs. - selected by Amy Sherman   

 

Bittersweet: Lessons from My Mother's Kitchen by Matt McAllester

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A deeply moving story told by a Pulitizer-prize winning writer, struggling to understand and reconnect with the mother he lost, often through recipes. Beautifully written and filled with the joy of great meals as well as the sadness and frustration of grief. - selected by Amy Sherman   

I Loved, I Lost, I Made Spaghetti by Giulia Melucci

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It's "chick lit" meets "food lit" in this light-hearted memoir of author Giulia Melucci's life-long search for romantic love and winning recipes, all of which are included.  Since her twenties, Melucci has known exactly which ingredients will make delicious meals, but, at forty, is still looking for the recipe for true love.  Nevertheless, readers will want to give her kudos for cashing in on her heartbreaks - mixing her memories together as tenderly as she would her father's minestrone to create this wonderful memoir. - selected by Meredith Adams


Not Becoming My Mother by Ruth Reich

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Those familiar with Reichl's previous books probably remember plenty of stories about her mother: some admittedly embellished; and most not terribly flattering. Having discovered private diaries and letters following her mother's death, the author uses this tome to take a more sympathetic look at her mother's life--exploring her younger years and the events that influenced the woman she eventually became. There are plenty of other books that examine the lost opportunities and sacrifices made by women of Miriam Reichl's generation; but at a mere 110 pages, Ruth Reichl's prose and gentle demeanor make this an easy yet thought-provoking read for a lazy summer afternoon.  - selected by Peggy Fallon

Blue Bistro by Elin Hildebrand

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For a true beach read you have to check out this offering by author Elin Hildebrand.  Set in my favorite vacation spot, Nantucket Island.  It's a classic girl gets job, girl falls for boss, and girl learns how to run a successful restaurant while battling the tumultuous hotbed of new love, kind of story.  A little escapism at its best with a fun foodie backdrop. - selected by Heather Jones  

What we're reading now…


What We Eat When We Eat Alone by Deborah Madison and Patrick McFarlin

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Eating alone has been a popular subject recently but this year's eating alone themed book is quite different from the compilation of stories presented in "Alone in the Kitchen with an Eggplant". Instead, renowned cookbook author, Deborah Madison and her husband, relate their friends, colleagues and acquaintances stories of their fears, joys and other intimate details of eating alone.  The result is a glimpse into the human nature of eating alone that is filled with interesting (and perhaps shocking) tales coupled with selected recipes for one.  Nestled throughout you'll also find McFarlin's wonderful drawings that help set the tone and character of this fun exposé. - selected by Foodie Pam

Let Me Eat Cake by Leslie F. Miller

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You'll find everything you ever wanted to know about cake, except for how to make one, in this exploration of all things cake.  Leslie Miller interjects humor, human nature and history into the tale of the cake and why we crave it so much… - selected by Foodie Pam

In Late Winter We Ate Pears by Deidere Heekin & Caleb Barber

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Part cookbook, part love affair "In Late Winter We Ate Pears" tells of husband and wife Deidere Heekin & Caleb Barber's year in Italy.  The stories offer a glimpse into the food and life of Italy; while the recipes enhance the stories.  If you can't get to Italy this summer, this book will let you feel as though you were there while enjoying some authentic Italian food in your own kitchen.  - selected by Foodie Pam

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First Meals & More: Your Questions Answered

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ImageI often find myself walking through the children's section of different stores amazed at the new products that have hit the shelves in the one year since I had my youngest daughter, not to mention how much things have changed since my oldest was born.  And when I go to my local bookstore it's the same thing, it seems like virtually every subject new and old is being written about and when I see something of interest I find myself saying "Where was this book three years ago"?

That was the exact reaction I had when I first looked at Bestselling Author Annabel Karmel's latest book First Meals & More.  This book has a very interesting premise that's a nice change of pace from all the other books out there aimed at teaching you about feeding your kids. Annabel has taken over 300 questions on children's eating habits, many sent in to her by fans of her books, and answered them.  Everything from the more common "Is it a good idea to put baby cereal in my baby's bottle?" to the more unusual "Could my toddler's diet be affecting her concentration?".

Many of the questions featured in this book are ones I had myself when I was just starting out as a parent and would often forget to ask the pediatrician about during routine visits.  Reading this book was almost like having a conversation with that really good friend who seems to always have the right answer.  Along with detailed answers to almost every kid food question imaginable, Annabel also gives us 50 more of her signature "recipes to the rescue" - dishes that are sure to please your pickiest eater.

ImageMy 3 year old loved the Apple-Bran muffins (see recipe below). They were so moist and naturally sweet; a nice change of pace from the daily dose of scrambled eggs and toast she'd been demanding lately.   The Blueberry-Lime Cheesecakes (see recipe below) were not only super easy to make, but also quite tasty. The first time I made them was for my daughter, but the second was strictly for me! I am glad to have this book by my side as I begin the toddler years with my youngest as this is a perfect gift for any expectant or new mother. 

Blueberry-Lime Cheesecakes

From First Meals and More: Your Questions Answered by Annabel Karmel and Karen Sullivan, DK Publishing 2009

  • 3 oz. graham crackers, or 1 cup unpacked crumbs
  • 3 Tbsp butter, melted
  • 1/4 cup cream cheese, at room temperature
  • 1/4 cup thick (Greek-style) plain yogurt
  • Grated zest and juice of 1 lime
  • 1/4 cup powdered sugar, sifted
  • 1/2 cup heavy cream


For serving

  • 1/2 - 1 cup blueberries
  • Powdered sugar


1. Put the graham crackers in a heavy-duty plastic bag and crush to fine crumbs with a rolling pin. Stir the crumbs into the melted butter. Divide among four 3 inch-diameter loose-bottomed tart molds. Press the crumbs evenly over the bottom.

2. Put the cream cheese in a bowl and beat to soften slightly. Add the yogurt, lime zest and juice, and sugar and beat to combine. Whip the cream in a separate bowl until it makes soft peaks, then fold into the cream cheese mixture.

3. Spoon the filling into the mold over the crumb bases. Cover and chill for at least 2 hours, or overnight, to set. Or freeze the cheesecakes; when needed, thaw overnight in the refrigerator.

4. Remove the side from each mold, then use a metal spatula to carefully lift the cheesecake from the bottom of the mold and place on a plate. Top each cheesecake with blueberries and dust with sifted powdered sugar before serving.

Apple-Bran Muffins

From First Meals and More: Your Questions Answered by Annabel Karmel and Karen Sullivan, DK Publishing 2009

  • 3 cups wheat bran flakes
  • 1/3 cup milk
  • 2/3 cup applesauce (homemade or from a jar)
  • 1 egg
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar
  • 7 Tbsp sunflower or olive oil
  • 1 cup whole-wheat flour
  • 2 tsp baking powder
  • 1/4 tsp baking soda
  • 1 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
  • Pinch of salt (optional)
  • 1/2 cup raisins
  • 1 Tbsp demerara or turbinado sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a small 12-cup muffin pan with paper cases.

2. Crush the bran flakes into a large bowl. Add the milk and applesauce, stir well, and let soak for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk together the egg, vanilla extract, brown sugar, and oil.

3. Add the egg mixture to the bran mixture and stir together. Sift in the flour, baking powder, baking soda, 1 tsp of the cinnamon, and the salt, if using, adding any residue from the sifter. Fold in, along with the raisins. Divide the mixture among the paper cases (an ice cream scoop is good for this). The cases will be almost full.

4. Mix together the demerara sugar and remaining 1/2 tsp of cinnamon and sprinkle over the muffins. Bake until risen and firm to the touch, 25-30 minutes. Cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

5. Store in an airtight container for 2 days. Or, freeze in a freezer bag or container; thaw at room temperature for 1-2 hours before needed.

About First Meals and More: Your Questions Answered

ImageThis book gives parents all the tools they need to get their babies and toddlers started on healthy eating habits that will last a lifetime. A great collection of quick, easy, and delicious recipes is partnered with a Q&A and loads of handy hints and tips on what younger kids will and won't eat, what's good for them and what isn't, some surprising exotic foods that are actually highly beneficial, and plenty of advice on how to awaken your child's interest in a variety of foods. Expert advice helps parents address the key issues likely to affect each of the five age groups in the book, with more than 400 helpful Questions and Answers from bestselling author Annabel Karmel, a leader in the field of children's food and nutrition today. Fifty tempting, nutritious 'recipes-to-the-rescue' will appeal to the fussiest eaters that children will love and want to eat over and over again.

Available from Amazon.com

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Wood-Fired Cooking

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Image
Photo by Ed Anderson © 2009
Every so often a cookbook utterly surprises me.  Wood-Fired Cooking by Mary Karlin surprised me when I first checked it out and then again after I tried out some recipes.

My initial surprise was in the diversity of recipes that Mary Karlin presents.  I knew you could cook a lot of things over a wood-fire, but I really had no idea you could make things ranging from bread to dessert with such wonderful results.

I really shouldn't have been surprised; Mary Karlin has been teaching wood-fired cooking at Ramekins Sonoma Valley Culinary School for nine years.   That experience shows not only in the various types of recipes she presents, but also in the range of wood-fired cooking techniques she uses including wood-fire roasting; wood-fired grilling. clay-pot and cast-iron over cooking; campfire cooking; and savory tarts made on the hearth.

Now, if you thinking, sounds great but I don't have any way to cook over a wood fire - don't worry.  Nearly all of the recipes can be made without a wood fire, although the flavors will be changed some since the wood does indeed add to the overall flavor result.  But I'm not one to quibble with the details and I don't think you should either.  I don't have wood-fired cooking abilities, yet I've thoroughly enjoyed the results of Mary's recipes that I made.  My favorite is the Grilled Flank Steak with Red Peppers and Fontina Cheese (see recipe below).  The rolling of the flank steak takes a bit of patience and the combination of the gremolata stuffing and the wood-roasted red pepper wine sauce were a bit time consuming to prepare, but the result was worth it and I'd make it again.  Not only is it visually appealing, which makes it a great party dish, but the combination of flavors really worked.  The roasted red peppers within the rolled flank stead really stand out and the accompanying red pepper wine sauce ties it all together. 

But I digress, the book is focused on wood-fired cooking and Mary does a great job of outlining the basics of wood-fired cooking.  She also points out the obvious - if you've gone to the trouble of getting a wood-fire going you should be sure to plan out what you're cooking to make as much of the fire as you can.  To that end she presents tips and techniques for menu planning, not only for one night but several using a single wood-fired cooking session.

Lastly, for those that will be going camping this summer and are looking for some great new cooking ideas Wood-Fired cooking has definitely got them.  A whole chapter is devoted to campfire cooking with dishes ranging from pork and beans to stew, soup, paella, bread and dessert just to name a few. 

Grilled Flank Steak with Red Peppers and Fontina Cheese

Reprinted with permission from Wood-Fired Cooking: Techniques and Recipes for the Grill, Backyard Oven, Fireplace, and Campfire by Mary Karlin, copyright © 2009. Published by Ten Speed Press.

Italian cuisine often features stuffed and rolled meat or fish. This recipe uses inexpensive yet flavorful flank steak. Pounded chicken or turkey breast, pork loin, or fish can be substituted. The grilled rolls are sliced into beautiful spirals and serve with gremolata reserved from the stuffing and a wonderful wood-roasted wine sauce.

Serves 6 as a main course

  • 1 (11/2- to 2-pound) flank steak
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Gremolata Stuffing
  • 1 cup coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • 1/4 cup julienned fresh basil
  • 6 cloves garlic, blanched and minced 
  • Grated zest of 1 lemon
  • 1/3 cup bread crumbs or panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
  • 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil, for moistening
  • 2 red bell peppers, roasted and peeled
  • 2 cups packed spinach leaves
  • 8 ounces Italian fontina or Monterey Jack cheese, thinly sliced
  • Olive oil, for brushing
  • Wood-Roasted Red Pepper Wine Sauce (see below)

Prepare a hot fire (475º to 500ºF) in a wood-fired oven or grill.

Butterfly the steak by slicing through it horizontally (with the grain), cutting almost through, leaving halves attached by 1/2 inch. Open and flatten the cut meat and lightly season with salt and pepper. Pound the steak to create a fairly even thickness. Set aside.

To make the gremolata stuffing, combine all the ingredients in a bowl. Set aside, reserving 3 tablespoons for garnish.
Cut the roasted red peppers into 4 large slabs. Lay the spinach leaves over the opened steak. Line with cheese slices, then the red pepper slabs. Sprinkle with the gremolata stuffing. Roll up the steak tightly lengthwise. Tie the rolled steak with kitchen string about every 3 inches. Brush with olive oil and season lightly with salt and pepper.

Place the meat on a grate in the oven or on the grill and turn to brown on all sides, about 10 minutes. Move off direct heat and continue cooking for 20 to 25 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 120º to 130ºF. Transfer to a carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 10 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 130º to 135ºF. Cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds, sprinkle with the reserved gremolata, and serve with the wine sauce.

Wood-Roasted Red Pepper Wine Sauce

Reprinted with permission from Wood-Fired Cooking: Techniques and Recipes for the Grill, Backyard Oven, Fireplace, and Campfire by Mary Karlin, copyright © 2009. Published by Ten Speed Press.

This simple sauce has many applications: as a sauce for meat (page 54), as a pasta sauce, or as a soup base. Wood-roasting the peppers and onions adds great flavor. Returning them to the fire along with the wine and other ingredients adds a richness and depth to the sauce. Use a red wine that has a lot of presence such as Zinfandel or Sangiovese. You can add other spices, such as a curry blend or chipotles in adobo, as you choose.

Makes about 2 cups

  • 2 large red bell peppers
  • 1 yellow onion, halved
  • 3 cloves roasted garlic
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 1 cup dry red wine
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried herbs of choice
  • 2 teaspoons honey
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper
  • Pinch of red pepper flakes (optional)

Place the bell peppers in the embers of a wood-fired oven or over the direct heat of a grill. Roast until well blistered and charred all over. Place in a bowl, covered with plastic wrap, and let stand for 10 minutes. Remove the skin, seeds, and stem. Reserve any juice. Cut into chunks. Roast the onion, cut side down on the grill or skin side down in the embers, until slightly caramelized. Remove the skin and coarsely chop.

Combine the peppers, reserved juice, onion, garlic, olive oil, wine, and herbs in a baking dish and place on the floor of the wood-fired oven or over indirect heat on the grill. Cook, uncovered, until liquid is slightly reduced, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. Place in a blender or food processor and puree. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, pushing down on the solids with the back of a large spoon. Season with the honey and salt and pepper to taste. Add the pepper flakes, if you like. Thin with a touch of warm water or vegetable stock if needed. Use warm, or store in portions in self-sealing plastic bags in the refrigerator for 1 week or in your freezer for up to 2 months.

About Wood-Fired Cooking

ImageMary Karlin's enticing recipes explore the diverse flavor characteristics of hardwoods and live-fire cooking methods, from Plank-Roasted Porterhouse or Indian Cilantro-Mint Naan to a hearth-baked Milanese Risotto Tart or Warm Chocolate-Chipotle Cakes. Introductory chapters cover the basics of indoor and outdoor wood-fired cooking, followed by the best applications for the myriad live-fire techniques, a survey of equipment, and detailed instructions on building fires and regulating temperatures. Karlin's expert planning shows efficient cooks how to make the best use of wood-fired cooking sessions, including step-by-step instructions for preparing an entire week's worth of food in a single session. Wood-Fired Cooking is ideal for grilling enthusiasts looking for the next challenge.

Available from Amazon.com

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