I received this assignment by default. Well, okay, maybe I sort of begged for it. St. Patrick's Day is the only time of year when my people take center stage. Both of my parents emigrated from Ireland in the 1920's, so my 5 siblings and I are first generation Americans and 100% Irish. Forget the stupid green beer, the "Kiss Me I'm Irish" buttons, the sappy music, dancing leprechauns, and spirited parades down rainy city streets. I just wanna eat (See my St. Patrick's Day menu below).

This is the day when everybody can be Irish. I can't blame all the poor unfortunates for climbing onto our bandwagon-it really is a wonderful heritage, if I do say so myself. Centuries of political oppression spawned a dark sense of humor that lives on to this day. Never mind our characteristic lack of height, predisposition toward freckles, and lifelong addiction to sunscreen. The Irish know how to party, and everybody wants a piece of the action on March 17.

Fifty years ago Irish cooking was little more than the punch line to a joke-a cuisine so scorned, it was ranked only slightly better than England's. Ireland was a poor country with a less-than-sunny climate, so its cooks merely played the hand they were dealt. Oh, the Irish enjoyed food-but no one else in the world was clamoring to eat their overcooked meat and mushy root vegetables. Salad? Huh? Dessert? How about some fruitcake? These choices weren't considered Spartan-it was just life.

My parents were a product of that era, so that is pretty much the food I grew up on. (Don't even get me started on dulse, my family's answer to Beluga caviar.) While other kids in our neighborhood popped strange tart-like things into the toaster and slurped their way through bowls of sugary American cereal, breakfast at our house was often crisp bacon and soft-boiled eggs (served in egg cups, of course), mopped up with Mom's raisin-studded Irish soda bread and washed down with steaming hot cups of tea- made kid-friendly with plenty of milk and sugar. In retrospect we were incredibly fortunate, though at the time friends viewed our meals as freakishly quaint.

A talent for making decent libations was about the only thing that earned the Irish a spot on the culinary map. Maybe this is why Americans invented their own misguided version of what Irish food should be: corned beef boiled-to-death with spuds and smelly cabbage. I suppose if you drank enough, you might even enjoy it.

But sometimes time heals all ills. A generation-or-two ago the economy of Ireland began to thrive. The young became well educated and well traveled, and suddenly a big ol' pot of greasy lamb stew was no longer the solution to every entertaining dilemma. Food magazines began to celebrate the natural bounty of Ireland-organically grown vegetables; artisan cheeses; free-range meats; and fish plucked from clean waters. Suddenly farmhouse cuisine was chic. Even soda bread got some respect. Irish chefs became sophisticated locovores, and their country has now become a destination for world-class food.

To celebrate this revolution (one of Ireland's more successful ones, I might add), I've scoured Project Foodie in search of recipes to explore your inner Irish…everything from the slightly tacky (boozy green milkshakes) to the sublime (roasted wild salmon with dill). Some recipes feature traditional fare; while others were selected merely for that irresistible touch of green. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, desserts, appetizers, and drinks-we've got 'em all. It's never been easier to decide how you want to roll on March 17.

My personal menu selections follow; but I encourage you to scan through the dozens (and dozens) of recipes I've tagged. At the top of the Project Foodie webpage, look beneath the Recipe Search box, and you'll see lots of "tag" topics written in red. Simply click on "St. Patrick's Day" (or click on the big green Shamrock) and wait for the fun to unfold.

A Cozy Dinner for Four

Beer-Battered Asparagus

Aunt Polly's Lamb Shanks

Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes 

Country Rhubarb Cake

Irish Coffee

Peggy Fallon's "Irish Potato" Candies

I am an absolute sucker for anything trompe l'oeil…the French term for "trick the eye." Every March for about as long as I can remember, a local premium candy maker has been selling "Irish potato" candies. The sight of them makes me squeal with delight, but the overly sweet flavor of the marshmallowy confection is always a disappointment. Now I make my own bite-size spuds, using a basic chocolate truffle recipe-such as the following-spiked with an Irish liqueur or whiskey. Instead of forming into balls, I  roll the mixture into small, irregular ovals that resemble tiny fingerling potatoes; then roll them in a blend of sweet ground chocolate and cocoa powder, such as Ghirardelli brand. (I think its lighter color makes better "dirt" than plain unsweetened cocoa powder.) For the final touch, I insert a couple of randomly-spaced toasted pine nuts into each truffle to resemble sprouting eyes. Too cute…and perfectly yummy. PF

Beer-Battered Asparagus (Gourmet, March, 2005) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Aunt Polly’s Lamb Shanks (Saveur, March, 1999) Tender, fall-off-the-bone lamb, slow-roasted vegtables, and a sprinkling of mint combine in a dish that easily serves as a meal. My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes (Everyday Food, September, 2006) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Country Rhubarb Cake (Gourmet, March, 2004) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Irish Coffee (Martha Stewart Living, March, 2009) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Chocolate Truffles (Sunset, February, 2002) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (1) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments: On March 7, 2010, 2:02 pm peggy said: For a wonderful St. Patrick's Day treat, flavor these with your favorite Irish liqueur or whiskey. On March 7, 2010, 2:02 pm peggy said: For a wonderful St. Patrick's Day treat, flavor these with your favorite Irish liqueur or whiskey.

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Photo by Leigh Beisch

Sticky, Chewy, Messy, Gooey Treats for Kids caters to the kid in each of us. Just to be on the safe side, the author employed an official tasting panel that ranges from her husband and two young daughters to the local Brownie troop and kids in the park. I mean, how can you not like someone whose official bio ends with the line, "She firmly believes every earthquake survival kit should include a case of Marshmallow Fluff." You go, girl.

Ms. O'Connor's talent in the kitchen is not just some lucky fluke--she is a bonafide pro who studied at the International Pastry Arts Center in New York and holds a certificate from the Cordon Bleu in London.  I've been a big fan of her books for many years; this latest volume comes on the coattails of her utterly wonderful Sticky, Chewy, Messy, Gooey: Desserts for the Serious Sweet Tooth.

In addition to standard baking information, the book contains three chock-full chapters brimming with kid-friendly recipes. The first covers breakfast, with wake-up wonders like Sticky Butterscotch French Toast, Banana Split Pancakes, and Curiously Sticky Caramel Monkey Bread, guaranteed to catapult any sleepy-head out of bed. The next chapter honors every day as a holiday - either real or imagined - with Heaven-Sent Angel Biscuits, Wicked Good Chocolate Peanut Butter Pudding Cups, and Quickberry! Quackberry! Blackberry-Apple Crumble. The final chapter concentrates on sweets suitable for parties (or any other celebration), with recipes like Pinkalicious Princess Cupcakes (surely the stuff little girls' dreams are made of), Flufftastic Fudge, and The Best Chocolate Birthday Cake Ever. What's not to like?

Photo by Leigh Beisch

I snagged a copy with the intention of baking for my grandchildren, but I know plenty of grown-ups - myself included - who will gladly gobble up this collection of recipes.

Hunka Chunka Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies 

From Sticky, Chewy, Messy, Gooey Treats for Kids by Jill O'Connor (Chronicle Books, 2009)

There is nothing like watching a group of 7-year-olds taste a batch of chocolate chip cookies - they do so with the same intensity and concentration usually reserved for sampling a fine, aged Bordeaux. These big, fat, saucer-size cookies are crisp around the edges but lusciously soft and chewy in the center. Chockfull of chips and picture perfect, they have been sampled many times to great acclaim-touted as much for their simplicity as their flavor. Starting the batter with melted butter keeps these cookies chewy and dense, and chilling the dough for a little while before baking yields cookies that one young tester told me "look like they came from the bakery." Compliments, indeed.

Makes 18 big cookies

• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
• 1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
• 2 eggs, plus 1 egg yolk
• 3 cups all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 3 cups semisweet chocolate chips
  

{Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or coat lightly with nonstick cooking spray. Set aside.

In a large bowl, mix together the melted butter, sugars, vanilla, eggs, and egg yolk. Sift the flour, baking soda, and salt into the bowl and stir the ingredients together to form a soft dough. Stir in the chocolate chips.

Using a 2-ounce self-releasing ice-cream scoop or a 1/4-cup measuring cup, form large balls of cookie dough. Place on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet, 9 to a sheet to allow room for spreading, and chill the dough for at least 30 minutes or up to overnight.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Bake the cookies until they are golden brown and crisp around the edges but still slightly soft in the center, 15 to 17 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and allow cookies to cool completely on the baking sheet before eating.

Peanut Butter-Pretzel Bonbons

From Sticky, Chewy, Messy, Gooey Treats for Kids by Jill O'Connor (Chronicle Books, 2009)

If you love peanut butter in your chocolate, and chocolate in your peanut butter, these baby bonbons were born just for you. Sweet and creamy, with a savory, crunchy kick from crushed pretzels and a lively crackle from bits of chopped English toffee, these candies will knock your socks off. They have been sampled by hungry elementary school teachers, skeptical culinary students, and little kids at the park, and everywhere they went these fat little bonbons were met with astonished delight at how tasty they were-and you will be amazed at how easy they are to create in your own kitchen.

Makes 35 to 40 bonbons

• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 2 cups confectioners' sugar, sifted
• 2 cups creamy peanut butter
• 2 cups (about 10 ounces) finely chopped pretzel sticks
• 1 cup crushed Heath English Toffee Bits, or Heath Almond Brickle Bits
• 1 1/2 pounds finely chopped semisweet chocolate melted with 4 tablespoons vegetable shortening, or 1 1/2 pounds dark chocolate confectionery coating, melted, or 2 tubs (7 ounces each) dipping chocolate
• 1 cup finely chopped salted peanuts for rolling (optional)
• 1 cup Belgian chocolate jimmies (or vermicelli) for rolling (optional)  

In a large bowl, using a hand-held electric mixer set at medium speed, beat together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Beat in the peanut butter until combined. Using a large rubber spatula, fold in the pretzel sticks and toffee bits.

Cover and refrigerate the mixture until it is very firm, 2 to 3 hours. Roll the mixture, by heaping tablespoons, into 1-inch balls. Place on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Cover the bonbons with plastic wrap and freeze until they are very firm, about 30 minutes.

Combine the chopped chocolate and shortening, cut into small bits, on a large, microwave-safe dinner plate. Microwave at half-power for 1 minute. When melted, the chocolate will appear soft and shiny but will still hold its shape; stir smooth. If the chocolate is not completely melted, heat in 30-second increments, stirring until smooth. Transfer the chocolate to a medium bowl.   If using confectionery coating, repeat this process without using the shortening.  If using dipping chocolate in a tub, follow the dipping directions listed on the container.

To make dipping the bonbons easy, and less messy, try wearing latex gloves, available in most pharmacies. Working with one bonbon at a time, quickly dip it in the melted chocolate, rolling it around to coat it completely. Rest the bonbon on a fork and let any excess chocolate drain away. Immediately roll the bonbon in the chopped peanuts or chocolate jimmies and place on the parchment-lined baking sheet to harden.

Alternatively, place the dipped bonbon without the jimmies or nut coating, on the parchment-lined baking sheet and top with one perfect salted peanut or a sprinkling of crushed English toffee, or when the bonbon is firm, drizzle lightly with melted white chocolate.

About Sticky, Chewy, Messy, Gooey Treats for Kids

Teeny tummies love yummy treats. Sticky Chewy Messy Gooey Treats for Kids is bursting with 30 tasty but simple recipes for sticky sweets and gooey breakfasts. Such delights as Pinkalicious Princess Cupcakes, Wicked Good Chocolate Peanut Butter Pudding Cups, Banana Split Pancakes, and Hunka Chunka Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies are the kinds of treats kids will love. With a lay-flat binding, an easy-to-clean cover, and step-by-step instructions, this book gets the whole family gathered around the mixing bowl.

Available at Amazon.com

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Contrary to what jewelry ads might lead to you believe, Valentine's Day is whatever you want it to be. For young children it's all about scoring as many Valentines as possible - with the prospect of a little chocolate thrown in for added incentive. Typical teenage fantasies require nothing less than romantic overtures from a secret crush. For some adults it's a time to paint the town red…literally. But for most of us, Valentine's Day is a welcome break from the doldrums of winter. Regardless of the weather, we are reminded of the promise of spring and all the sweet times ahead.

No self-respecting foodie can let this day pass without cooking at least something. Whether it's a single batch of brownies or a full-blown meal, it's time to spread the love. Years ago when preparing for a Valentine dinner party I would do slightly manic things like whittle away at whole carrots, forming notches so the resulting slices were heart-shaped. (Oh yes I did.) No doily was left unturned; no vase unfilled. It was the Super Bowl of Precious. Fortunately I got over this, but I still keep a few tricks up my sleeve.

When dining à deux, it's a good idea to ease off on garlic, raw onions, beans, or other foods that might trigger a less-than-romantic reaction. And unless you have been fully briefed on your lover's medical status, don't make anything with peanuts, shellfish, or other ingredients known to aggravate allergies. (Hospital emergency rooms are rarely conducive to romance.) A big platter of spaghetti may have ignited a spark for Lady and the Tramp, but unless you have the willpower to limit yourself to small portions it's best to avoid a heavy meal that will leave both of you feeling sluggish…if you catch my drift.

No special someone in your life? Quit your moping and think again. Anyone who has ever improved the quality of your everyday life - be it a best friend, librarian, or auto mechanic - deserves some sweet gratitude. Explore your inner Martha (and search Project Foodie for recipes, of course) to come up with a little something delicious to lift your spirits as well as the recipient's.

Make this day a special one, even if you're dining alone. (Consider the bright side: a flannel nightgown and fuzzy slippers are a heck of a lot more comfortable than scratchy lingerie and stilettos.) And this year's Valentine's Day coincides with the beginning of the Chinese New Year celebration; so if all else fails, order take-out. 

For those motivated to cook their little hearts out, however, here are a few menus to get those juices flowing.

Breakfast in Bed with the one you love

Rosé Champagne, sparkling wine, or fruit juice

Scrambled Eggs with Herbed Croutons - Assuming there will only be two of you in bed (!), cut this recipe in half.

Scrambled Eggs With Herbed Croutons (Food & Wine, October, 2008) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Grilled Ham Steak With Peppered Peach Glaze - Instead of grilling outdoors, cook the ham on a stovetop grill pan, or under the broiler, watching carefully.

Grilled Ham Steak With Peppered Peach Glaze (Bon Appétit, August, 1996) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Fresh Strawberries

Milk Chocolate Pudding - When it comes to chocolate I usually travel to the dark side; but I make an exception for this pudding. The secret to success is best-quality milk chocolate-don't try to make-do with a candy bar from the office vending machine. (You only need 4 ounces, so you can afford to splurge.) Make the full recipe-if things go according to plan, you'll want leftovers for later.

Milk Chocolate Pudding (Gourmet, February, 2007) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Brunch with Foodie Friends

Dates With Bacon - Here's one way to ensure that everyone has a date on Valentine's Day.

Dates with Bacon (Sunset, July, 2006) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Campari, Grapefruit & Pomegranate Cocktail

Campari, Grapefruit & Pomegranate Cocktail (EatingWell, May/June, 2008) Balance herbaceous Campari with the sweet-tart flavors of pomegranate and grapefruit. This dusty pink drink looks festive in a stemmed wineglass with a twist of orange zest. For a slightly sweeter drink, use orange juice instead of grapefruit. To make a nonalcoholic version, omit the Campari and add an extra 1/3 cup of each juice. My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Cinnamon-Raisin Bread Custard With Fresh Berries

Cinnamon-Raisin Bread Custard With Fresh Berries (Food & Wine, September, 2008) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Golden Sausages and Shallots in White Wine

Golden Sausages and Shallots in White Wine (Food & Wine, March, 2002) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Double-Chocolate Bundt Cake with Ganache Glaze

Double-Chocolate Bundt Cake with Ganache Glaze (Food & Wine, November, 2006) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

A Romantic Dinner for Two

"Red Hot" Beet Salad with Goat Cheese Toasts  - Since you need only two servings, it makes sense to cut the recipe (and your work) in half. And do find a way to work the name of the recipe into the conversation!

"Red Hot" Beet Salad with Goat Cheese Toasts (Food & Wine, August, 2002) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Herb-Crusted Rack of Lamb

Herb-Crusted Rack Of Lamb (Bon Appétit, February, 2003) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Roasted Baby Potatoes with Capers and Rosemary - This potato recipe makes more than is needed for two. (Even for an Irish person like me.) I suggest dividing the recipe into thirds, using 1 pound of potatoes, 5 teaspoons oil, 1 sprig of rosemary, 1 garlic clove, 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, and 1 tablespoon capers.

Roasted Baby Potatoes with Capers and Rosemary (Bon Appétit, April, 2006) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Prosciutto Tied Asparagus - Vegetables in bondage: a little something to amuse the cook. Cut this recipe in half, if you like, or make the full recipe and serve the leftovers cold the next day, drizzled with a light vinaigrette.

Prosciutto Tied Asparagus (Semi-Homemade Cooking With Sandra Lee, Episode: Daffodil Parade, Season: 9) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Chocolate Fondue with Candied Orange Peel, Raspberries, and Almond Macaroons 

Chocolate Fondue With Candied Orange Peel, Raspberries, And Almond Macaroons (Gourmet, February, 2007) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) hide comment | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

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Hot dogs have been getting a lot of press lately. Not the mystery-meat variety encased in plastic and found in every supermarket, but a new breed of dog developed to satisfy both the palate and the pocketbook. Leave it to chefs Gayle Pirie and John Clark to lead the dog race in the San Francisco bay area.

This wildly talented husband-wife team spent years cooking at landmark restaurants like Zuni Café and Chez Panisse; and then developed a restaurant consulting business servicing clients all over North America, Asia, and Canada. In 2001 the pair took over the kitchen at Foreign Cinema (one of my very favorite San Francisco restaurants), where their ever-changing Mediterranean-inspired menu has won critical acclaim from just about every local publication, as well as the New York Times and Gourmet magazine.
     

When I heard they had recently opened a "hot dog joint" on a busy corner in downtown San Francisco's historic theater district, it took me about 30 seconds to slip into my rain boots and head out the door - but first, a quick telephone conversation with Gayle. (Quick because she was in her car, headed to the northern California wine country for yet another consulting appointment.)

Despite their impeccable credentials, these chefs are no food snobs. They live and eat in the real world…just with standards a little higher than some of us. With two children aged 11 and 4, their busy lives have another important dimension, often causing one parent to remain close to home while the other oversees a restaurant. Like many families, their evenings often revolve around homework and other school-related activities. Even amidst all this craziness, they eat together as a family every day, and do their best to maintain a creative, stress-free environment where solitary computer-time is kept to a minimum.

Dinner en famille may feature a "gourmet" mac & cheese, a beloved fettuccine, or a favorite hash made from leftover steak. Preferred late-night snacks include hot chocolate, popcorn, and fresh fruit. (Needless to say, these "ordinary" treats are made extraordinary at Chez Clark - using only best-quality organic products.)

Lest we mistake her for Super Woman, Gayle readily admits she offsets periodic anxiety attacks with a massage, a pedicure, or acupuncture. (My kind of gal.) And like many parents on particularly busy days, it's not unusual for them to order take-out sushi from a neighborhood restaurant.

The couples' many consulting stints led them to explore the fast-food restaurant concept; particularly one that would elevate the common to the sublime. Inspired by a lifelong love of boudin blanc - as well as the occasional really good American hot dog - the answer became clear.

Show Dogs offers a globally-inspired menu of artisan hot dogs produced by a variety of local meat purveyors; complemented by an ingenious selection of house-made condiments and carefully selected local beers and wines. And don't look for any anemic, cottony hot dog buns here….theirs are custom-made daily by the legendary Acme Bread Company. House sides include Grass Fed Beef Chili, simply perfect Onion Rings, and Fresh Cut Fries - with or without their signature "barbecue dust".

Photography by John A. Benson

Gayle Pirie and John Clark are the authors of the Williams-Sonoma Bride & Groom Cookbook (Free Press 2006) and Country Egg, City Egg (Artisan 2000). Read more about their restaurants at www.showdogssf.com and www.foreigncinema.com.

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If you live long enough, you'll probably see it all. I've celebrated New Year's Eve in swanky restaurants as well as friends' cramped apartments. Some years in a noisy ballroom packed with strangers; other times at home in front of the fireplace, with one special person. My attire has run the gamut from sequins and stilettos to bathrobe and slippers. I have quaffed vintage champagne with no less glee than when I swilled cheap jug wine. (Okay, admittedly that year was a long time ago.) But the point is that each celebration ushered in a new year filled with new experiences; and each of these diverse memories is a good one. The only thing that never changed throughout the years is the abundance of delicious food---usually doled out in small portions. Be it corn chips or caviar, everyone loves to nibble on New Year's Eve.

No matter where you are-geographically or emotionally-it's the perfect night to revel in whichever way you choose; and no time to spend locked in a kitchen, crafting dozens of intricate little doodads destined to be consumed within minutes. Instead, keep labor to a minimum and whip up a flavor-packed assortment of dips and spreads. Paired with ingenious dippers and served with flair, this is creative entertaining without angst.

Whether these appetizers are the prelude to a fancy dinner or take center stage as the main event, guests control their own destiny by serving themselves. Even fussy eaters are more adventurous when given the option to taste only a dab of something new. Best of all, most dips and spreads---like the favorite recipes that follow---are easy enough for the host to throw together at the last minute. Shun those tubs of ersatz dip from the supermarket---the ones you see at every party--and opt for homemade. You'll get more bang for your buck; plus, you can refine the menu to suit your guests. Country pâté from the deli is delish; but a quickly made Wild Mushroom and Walnut Pâté will win kudos from vegetarians and carnivores alike.

When the budget is bountiful, a tin of Beluga caviar usually does the trick. But if your portfolio suffers growing pains, spread the wealth by folding golden whitefish caviar and chives into sour cream for an elegant 24-Carat Caviar Dip; then add an unexpected twist by serving spears of Belgian endive and thick-cut potato chips alongside for dipping.

Not a fan of the fish egg? Try a recipe that features another luxury ingredient suitable for this star-studded night. When made into a dip or spread, a few ounces of something pricey remains equally impressive to your guests, yet ends up feeding a small army. Few can resist the lure of creamy Crab Amandine Dip, Deviled Shrimp with Bacon, or Smoked Salmon Spread with Scotch Whisky…and no one will suspect you didn't blow your Christmas bonus to finance this party.

When it comes to no-fuss appetizers, a wheel of brie screams "extravagance" to guests but whispers "easy breezy" to the host. This month even some of the most unlikely grocery outlets carry wheels of this cheese in a variety of weights, to serve any size of group. Brie is naturally glamorous on its own, but if you are looking to gild the lily, I'm your gal. Consider slicing the wheel in half horizontally to make Brie with Pesto and Pine Nuts; or popping it into the oven briefly for Baked Brie with Cranberry Salsa.

No doubt some waif in spandex will have already begun a diet, so you'd best have a colorful display of crisp veggies on hand for nibbling. For the rest of us, include a bowl of something yummy to go along with them-perhaps Chunky Blue Cheese Dip, Hummus with Smoked Paprika, or Warm Artichoke Dip with Scallions and Jalapeño.

Round out the menu with something sweet, like luscious Chocolate Velvet Dip, surrounded with dried apricots, plain butter cookies, pretzels, cubes of pound cake, and perhaps even a few candy canes for dipping. The next day begins a new year, when there will be plenty of time to eat sensible grown-up meals.

Two-Olive Tapenade with Capers

From Great Party Dips by Peggy Fallon, Wiley 2008.

Many commercial tapenades are processed into a smooth paste, which can muddy the bright olive flavor that should permeate this condiment. To ensure proper texture, forego the food processor and chop the olives by hand with a large sharp knife; it only takes a few minutes. This tapenade is especially nice spooned over a small log of goat cheese, to spread on Crostini  or crackers.

 Makes about 1 cup; serves 4 to 6

• 2 flat anchovy fillets packed in olive oil, drained
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1/2 cup drained picholine or other meaty green olives, pitted and finely chopped
• 1/2 cup drained pitted kalamata olives, finely chopped
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons drained capers, coarsely chopped
• 1 teaspoon grated orange zest
• 1 teaspoon orange juice
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
• Freshly ground black Pepper

1. In a small bowl, combine the anchovies and garlic. Mash to a coarse paste with a fork. Add the picholine olives, kalamata olives, olive oil, capers, orange zest, orange juice, and thyme. Stir to mix well. Season with pepper to taste.

2. Transfer to a small crock or bowl and serve at once, or cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Goat Cheese Marinara with Shredded Basil

From Great Party Dips by Peggy Fallon, Wiley 2008.

Serves 4 to 6

Three simple ingredients yield triple the flavor you'd expect in this simple spread. Serve with baguette slices, crackers, Rosemary Focaccia (page 120), or Crostini (page 119).

• 1 small log (5 ounces) of soft white goat cheese (chèvre)
• 1 cup marinara sauce
• 4 large basil leaves

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

2. Cut the goat cheese into rounds about 1/2 inch thick. Arrange the slices in a single layer in a 2-cup gratin or other small baking dish. Spoon the marinara sauce over the cheese.

3. Bake until the sauce is bubbly hot and the cheese has softened but still holds its shape, 10 to 15 minutes.

4. Stack the basil leaves on top of each other and roll lengthwise into a tight cylinder. Cut crosswise into thin slices. Scatter the basil over the hot marinara sauce and serve at once.

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