Asian Dumplings: Mastering Gyoza, Spring Rolls, Samosas, and More by Andrea Nguyen (Ten Speed Press, 2009)  is a 2010 IACP Cookbook awards finalist in the Single Subject category. For a list of all the finalists check out the Project Foodie IACP Finalists Guide.

Photo by Penny De Los Santos © 2009

Nepalese Vegetable and Cheese Dumplings (Tarkari Momo)

Reprinted with permission from Asian Dumplings: Mastering Gyoza, Spring Rolls, Samosas, and More by Andrea Nguyen, copyright © 2009. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.

Makes 32 dumplings, serving 4 as a main course, 6 to 8 as a snack or starter

Tarkari momo are strikingly similar in concept to Italian ravioli with a ricotta-based filling, but the seasonings in these Nepalese dumplings reveal their Asian roots. Cumin, ginger, and Sichuan peppercorn commingle with chenna, or crumbly curds of Indian cheese (a precursor to paneer). Those ingredients combine with fresh chile, vegetables, and butter to make a wonderful vegetarian dumpling. The eye-poppingly spicy tomato sauce is a fabulous pairing with the delicate, rich filling.

The cheese is very easy to prepare, but you can substitute 1/3 pound paneer, crumbling or mincing it before using. For a pretty presentation, consider tinting the wrappers orange or gold by using some carrot juice or turmeric (see page 23).

Filling

• 4 cups whole milk
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or 1 1/2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar or cider vinegar
• 3 cups lightly packed chopped green cabbage
• 2 cups lightly packed coarsely chopped spinach
• 3 tablespoons ghee or unsalted butter  
• 1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion
• 1 large clove garlic, minced
• 1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger
• 1 large medium-hot red chile, such as Holland or Fresno, finely chopped  
• 1/2 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorn, toasted in a dry skillet for 2 to 3 minutes, until fragrant, then crushed with a mortar and pestle
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
• 2 large scallions (white and green parts), chopped
• 1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 2 teaspoons cornstarch dissolved in 1 tablespoon water
• 
  

• 1 pound Basic Dumpling Dough (see below)
• 1 1/2 cups Spicy Roasted Tomato Sauce (see below)

1. Put the milk in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and heat over medium-high heat, stirring frequently. Meanwhile, line a colander with a flour-sack towel, a piece of muslin, or four layers of cheesecloth.

When the milk begins to boil, decrease the heat to prevent boiling over. Add the lemon juice, stirring gently for about 10 seconds, or until white curds start forming and separating from the clear green-yellow whey. Remove from the heat and strain through the fabric-lined colander. Rinse the curds under cold water at a medium flow for about 5 seconds, to cool slightly and remove residual tang.

Gather up the towel around the curds, gently twisting to extract excess water. (If the cheese is still too hot, try again after it has hung for 10 minutes.) Tie up the corners of the towel, then hang the cheese to drain (I use the sink faucet) for 30 to 45 minutes, or until cool.

Transfer the cheese to a bowl, then mash it into a crumble; there should be about 1 cup. Cover to prevent drying. The cheese can be made up to 4 days in advance and refrigerated.

2. Half-fill a pot with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the cabbage. When the water returns to a boil, add the spinach, stirring to wilt it. Remove from the heat, drain the cabbage and spinach, rinse with cold water, then drain again. Expel excess water by squeezing batches of the vegetables in a towel or the same cloth used for making the cheese. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. There should be about 1 1/2 packed cups.

3. Melt the ghee in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for about 2 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft and fragrantly sweet. Add the garlic, ginger, and chile, stirring for 30 seconds, or until aromatic. Sprinkle in the Sichuan peppercorn and cumin, stirring for another 30 seconds, or until fragrant. Add the cabbage and spinach, and continue cooking for 1 to 2 minutes, until heated through. Stir in the cheese, scallions, and cilantro to combine. Sprinkle in the salt and mix well. Cook for about 1 minute to heat through.

Give the cornstarch mixture a stir and add to the filling mixture. Gently stir and fold until the mixture coheres. Transfer to a bowl, partially cover, and set aside to cool completely before using. You should have about 2 cups. (Or, cover in plastic wrap, refrigerate overnight, and return to temperature before proceeding.)

4. Meanwhile, form 16 wrappers from half of the dough (see page 24). Aim for wrappers that are about 31/4 inches in diameter.

5. Before assembling the dumplings, line steamer trays and/or a baking sheet with parchment paper. (If you are making the dumplings in advance, or plan to freeze them, lightly dust the paper with flour to avoid sticking.) For each dumpling, hold a wrapper in a slightly cupped hand. Scoop up about 1 tablespoon of filling with a bamboo dumpling spatula, dinner knife, or fork and position it in the center of the wrapper, pressing and shaping it into a mound and keeping about 1/2 to 3/4 inch of wrapper clear on all sides. Use your fingers to pleat and pinch the edge together to enclose the filling and form a closed satchel (see page 52). If that shape is too challenging, make the dumplings into half-moons, pea pods, big hugs, or pleated crescents (see pages 26 to 29 for instructions).

If you are steaming right away, place each finished dumpling in a steamer tray, sealed side up, and 1 inch away from the edge if you are using metal steamers. Repeat with the remaining wrappers, placing them in the steamer about 1/2 inch apart. If you don't have enough space on your steamer trays to steam all the dumplings at once, or if you are not steaming them right away, place the waiting ones on the prepared baking sheet, spaced a good 1/2 inch apart.

Keeping the finished dumplings covered with a dry kitchen towel, form wrappers from the remaining dough and fill them.

6. Assembled dumplings can be covered with plastic wrap, refrigerated for several hours, and cooked straight from the refrigerator. Or, freeze them on the baking sheet until hard (about 1 hour), transfer them to a zip-top plastic bag, pressing out excess air before sealing, and keep them frozen for up to 1 month; partially thaw, using your finger to smooth over any cracks that may have formed, before steaming. 7. To cook, steam the dumplings (see page 17 for guidance) over boiling water for about 8 minutes, or until they have puffed slightly and become somewhat translucent. Remove each tray and place it atop a serving plate.

8. Serve immediately with the sauce in a communal bowl for guests to help themselves. Enjoy with fork and spoon.

Basic Dumpling Dough

Reprinted with permission from Asian Dumplings: Mastering Gyoza, Spring Rolls, Samosas, and More by Andrea Nguyen, copyright © 2009. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.

Makes about 1 pound, enough for 32 medium or 24 large dumplings

This dough is the foundation of many excellent dumplings, including Chinese ji?aozi, Korean mandu, and Nepali momo. The process of making the dough is easy to master, especially with a little help from modern tools such as a food processor (though you can mix the dough by hand).

Asian wheat flour wrappers may be made with cold or hot water-the temperature is traditionally dictated by the cooking method. Boiled dumplings are said to require thicker skins made from cold-water dough in order to withstand the pressures of boiling, whereas panfried and steamed dumplings require thinner skins made from hot-water dough for their gentler cooking processes. Over the years, I've found that homemade wrappers of medium thickness, a scant 1/8 inch thick in the center and about 1/16 inch thick at the rim, work well for all cooking methods. If dumplings are gently boiled as described for shujiao on page 31, there is no need for thicker wrappers. Producing medium-thick wrappers is easier with hot-water dough as it is more yielding than its cold-water counterpart. The resulting wrappers taste superior to store-bought ones, and they need no water to seal. Grocery store all-purpose flour with a moderate amount of gluten, such as Gold Medal brand, works exceptionally well.

• 10 ounces (2 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
• About 3/4 cup just-boiled water (see Note)

1. To prepare the dough in a food processor, put the flour in the work bowl. With the machine running, add 3/4 cup of water in a steady stream through the feed tube. As soon as all the water has been added, stop the machine and check the dough. It should look rough and feel soft but firm enough to hold its shape when pinched. If necessary, add water by the teaspoon or flour by the tablespoon. When satisfied, run the machine for another 5 to 10 seconds to further knead and form a ball around the blade. Avoid overworking the dough.

2. Alternatively, make the dough by hand. Put a bowl atop a kitchen towel to prevent it from slipping while you work. Put the flour in the bowl and make a well in the center. Use a wooden spoon or bamboo rice paddle to stir the flour while you add 3/4 cup water in a steady stream. Aim to evenly moisten the flour. It is okay to pause to stir or add water-it is hard to simultaneously do both actions. When all the water has been added, you will have lots of lumpy bits. Knead the dough in the bowl (it is not terribly hot) to bring all the lumps into one mass; if the dough does not come together easily, add water by the teaspoon.

3. Regardless of the mixing method, transfer the dough and any bits to a work surface; flour your work surface only if necessary, and then sparingly. Knead the dough (it is not hot) with the heel of your hand for about 30 seconds for machine-made dough, or about 2 minutes for handmade dough. The result should be nearly smooth and somewhat elastic; press on the dough; it should slowly bounce back, with a light impression of your finger remaining. Place the dough in a zip-top plastic bag and seal tightly closed, expelling excess air. Set aside to rest at room temperature for at least 15 minutes and up to 2 hours. The dough will steam up the plastic bag and become earlobe soft, which makes wrappers easy to work with.

4. After resting, the dough can be used right away to form the wrappers. Or, refrigerate it overnight and returned it to room temperature before using.

Note: Recipes for hot-water dough often call for boiling water to hydrate the dry ingredients, but I find that practice too dangerous and prefer to let the water rest first. For the just-boiled water, half-fill a kettle or saucepan with water and bring it to a boil. Turn off the heat and after the bubbling action subsides, 30 to 90 seconds (depending on the heating vessel), pour the amount needed into a glass measuring cup and use for making the dough. I typically wait no more than 2 minutes after boiling to use the water.

Spicy Roasted Tomato Sauce

Reprinted with permission from Asian Dumplings: Mastering Gyoza, Spring Rolls, Samosas, and More by Andrea Nguyen, copyright © 2009. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.

Makes 1 1/2 cups

When you present dumplings with this sauce, the combination may recall an Italian pasta dish, but the sauce's zesty qualities resemble the Latin flavors of Mexico more than of Europe. But on closer analysis, the combination of chile, ginger, herbs, and spices is definitely Asian, specifically Nepal's Himalayan cuisine, which blends Chinese, Indian, and Tibetan traditions. In the Nepalese repertoire, this sauce is a type of achar (a moniker for chutneys and pickles) and is what typically accompanies momo; it's great with Tibetan momo, too.

With a tangy edge, moderate heat, and spiced depth, the sauce has a multilayered punch that begins seemingly subtle but finishes with a certain feistiness. Sometimes ground toasted sesame seeds are added for richness, but I find that they mute the other flavors too much.

• 3/4 pound ripe tomatoes
• 1 medium-hot red chile, such as cayenne, Fresno,  Holland, or jalapeño
• 1 clove garlic, chopped
• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 3 tablespoons water
• 1 teaspoon fresh lime or lemon juice (optional)
• 2 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro or mint leaves
• 1/4 teaspoon ground, toasted cumin seed or Sichuan peppercorn (optional)

1. Position an oven rack about 4 inches away from the broiler. Put the tomato and chile atop a piece of aluminum foil on a baking sheet and broil for about 6 minutes, or until the skins have pulled away and are a bit charred. Turn over and broil the other side for another 2 minutes. Continue, if necessary, to roast and char all over. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

2. Remove and discard the skins from the tomatoes and chile. Cut away the stems and, if you like less heat, scrape out and discard the chile seeds. Coarsely chop and set aside.

3. Combine the garlic, ginger, and salt in a mortar and pound with the pestle into a fragrant paste. Add the chile and pound to a rough texture. Add the tomatoes and gently mix to break the tomato apart. It will remain chunky. Transfer to a bowl, then stir in the water, lime juice, cilantro, and cumin. (For a fine texture, use an electric mini-chopper and process in stages to ensure a smooth consistency. Blend the water and lime juice with the tomato. Stir in the cilantro and cumin to finish.)

4. Set the sauce aside for 30 minutes to blend the flavors. Taste and add extra salt for depth, lime juice to cut the heat, or water to thin out the sauce. Aim for a medium-hot tang. This sauce is best enjoyed the day you prepare it, but it can be refrigerated overnight and returned to room temperature before serving.

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Rose's Heavenly Cakes by Rose Levy Beranbaum (John Wiley & Sons, Inc, 2009) is a 2010 IACP Cookbook awards finalist in the Baking: Savory or Sweet category. For a list of all the finalists check out the Project Foodie IACP Finalists' Guide.

Today we're kicking off Project Foodie's IACP Cookbook Award Finalists profile series with one of my personal favorites -  Rose's Heavenly Cakes by Rose Levy Beranbaum. 

While I made cakes from scratch before getting my hands on this book, my cake baking has definitely been propelled forward knowing that Rose's clear instructions and guiding voice are only an arm's reach away.  The recipes are detailed, but approachable, and the mix of great pictures and enticing recipe head notes lures you into making more and more cakes. 

The Chocolate Banana Stud Cake (recipe below) is a great example of how luring the recipes are.  This cake not only has a great ingredient combination with bananas and chocolate, but it also has great visual appeal with all those chocolate chip studs.  

For more on Rose's Heavenly Cakes check out my review with the recipe for Lemon Poppy Seed-Sour Cream Cake. 

Chocolate Banana Stud Cake

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SERVES: 8 to 10

BAKING TIME: 35 to 45 minutes

Although this is a fun and easy cake to make and decorate, I'd be lying if I said it was quick: Studding the frosting with chocolate chips takes a bit of time. It's a great project for kids to help with, provided they don't eat most of the chocolate chips as they are putting them on the cake! To save time, another attractive option is to use fewer chocolate chips and leave more space between them. Banana makes an excellent addition to this chocolate cake because it adds moistness, a dense texture, and blends well with the three chocolate flavors of the cake, frosting, and chocolate chips.

PLAN AHEAD Make the ganache several hours before using.

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT: One 9 by 2-inch round cake pan, encircled with a cake strip, bottom coated with shortening, topped with a parchment round, then coated with baking spray with flour.

MIX THE COCOA AND WATER: In a medium bowl, whisk the cocoa and boiling water until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap to prevent evaporation and cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes. To speed cooling, place it in the refrigerator. Bring it to room temperature before proceeding.

PREHEAT THE OVEN: Twenty minutes or more before baking, set an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F/175°C.

MIX THE LIQUID INGREDIENTS: In a food processor, process the banana and sour cream until smooth. Pulse in the cocoa mixture, eggs, and vanilla and process briefly just to blend.

MAKE THE BATTER: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the flat beater, mix the flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, and salt on low speed for 30 seconds. Add the butter and half the banana-cocoa mixture. Mix on low speed until the dry ingredients are moistened. Raise the speed to medium and beat for 1 1/2 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Starting on medium-low speed, gradually add the remaining banana-cocoa mixture in two parts, beating on medium speed for 30 seconds after each addition to incorporate the ingredients and strengthen the structure. The batter will be light but creamy. Using a silicone spatula, scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the surface evenly with a small offset spatula.

BAKE THE CAKE: Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until a wire cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean and the cake springs back when pressed lightly in the center. The cake should start to shrink from the sides of the pan only after removal from the oven.

COOL AND UNMOLD THE CAKE: Let the cake cool in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Run a small metal spatula between the sides of the pan and the cake, pressing firmly against the pan, and invert the cake onto a wire rack that has been coated lightly with nonstick cooking spray. To prevent splitting, reinvert the cake so that the top side is up.

Cool completely.

Ganache Studded with Chocolate Chips

MAKES: 1¾ cups/16.5 ounces/466 grams

MAKE THE GANACHE: In a food processor, process the dark chocolate until very fine. In a 2-cup or larger microwavable cup with a spout (or in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring often), scald the cream (heat it to the boiling point; small bubbles will form around the periphery).

With the motor of the food processor running, pour the cream through the feed tube in a steady stream. Process for a few seconds until smooth. Pulse in the vanilla and liqueur or cream, if using. Scrape the ganache into a glass bowl and let it sit for 1 hour. Cover it with plastic wrap and allow it to cool at room temperature for several hours, until the mixture reaches frosting consistency. The ganache keeps for 3 days at room temperature, for 3 weeks refrigerated, and for 6 months frozen.

COMPOSE THE CAKE: When the cake is completely cool, spread a little ganache onto a 9-inch cardboard round or serving plate and set it on top. If using the plate, slide a few wide strips of wax paper or parchment under the cake to keep the rim of the plate clean. Frost the top and sides of the cake with the ganache.

Stud the cake all over with chocolate chips, pointed ends in. It will take about 45 minutes to place the chips close together. Fewer chips more widely spaced also are very attractive. Or, if desired, form a design with a combination of dark and milk chocolate or peanut butter chips. If using the paper strips, slowly slide them out from under the cake before serving.

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We've also got some great events planned between now and the April 22nd announcement of the IACP cookbook award winners. Join us as we celebrate IACP cookbook award season by checking out the finalists' guide, voting for your favorite nominated books, and reading our cookbook profiles for selected finalists...

The Project Foodie IACP 2009 Cookbook Nominations Guide (see below). Our IACP cookbook nominations guide is aimed at providing information about the nominees including helping you figure out which books you will enjoy.  The cookbook nominations guide includes the list of nominees along with links to reviews of the books from a variety of sources including top magazines, newspapers and bloggers. And for your cooking pleasure we've got some recipes for you to try from the nominated books!

Vote for your favorite IACP nomination.   On April 22nd the IACP will announce the winners, but why wait for that?  Participate in Project Foodie's Straw Poll; vote now and tell us who you think should win!  Voting is open for the Project Foodie Straw Poll from now until April 20th.  On April 21st we'll announce the results and then on April 22nd we'll compare the Foodie's top choices to those of the IACP. 

Finalist cookbook profiles:  Starting on Monday, March 8th we'll be presenting profiles for nominated cookbooks including selections of recipes to try.

Now, sit back and check out the Project Foodie guide to the IACP nominations.  Once you have, be sure to vote for your favorites!

Did we miss a review? If you have links to more reviews on these books let us know ( This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it ) and we'll add them to the list.

Project Foodie IACP 2009 Cookbook Nominations Guide

American | Baking: Savory or Sweet | Chefs and Restaurants | Children, Youth and Family | Compilations | Culinary History | First Book: The Julia Child Award | Food and Beverage Reference/Technical | Food Photography and Styling | General | Health and Special Diet | International | Literary Food Writing | Professional Kitchens | Single Subject | Wine, Beer or Spirits

American

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DamGoodSweet by David Guas and Raquel Pelzel (Taunton Press, 2009) Reviews: Project Foodie | New Orleans Food | Baking Bites | Slashfood | San Francisco Examiner | The Kitchn | Orangette | Cookbook of the Day Recipes: Viewable Recipe

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My New Orleans: The Cookbook by John Besh, (Andrews McMeel, 2009) Reviews:  Sacramento Book Review | Louisiana Travel | LA Times | Boston Herald | Fine Cooking | New York Times | Saveur | Slashfood | Houston Chronicle | Eat Me Daily | In Mama's Kitchen | The Atlantic | New Orleans Food Project Foodie Top General Cookbook Selection Recipes: Viewable Recipes

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New American Table by Marcus Samuelsson and Heidi Walters (John Wiley & Sons, 2009) Reviews: Slashfood | Eat Me Daily | LA Times | The Food Paper | Star Chefs.com | Village Voice | The Kitchn | LA Weekly | TribLive Recipes: Viewable Recipes

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Real Cajun by Donald Link and Paula Disbrowe (Clarkson Potter, 2009) Reviews: Slashfood | New Orleans Cuisine | San Francisco Examiner | Kroll Travel | Food 52 Recipes: Viewable Recipes

Baking: Savory or Sweet

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All Cakes Considered by Melissa Gray (Chronicle Books, 2009) Reviews: NPR | Running With Books | Suite101.com Recipes: Viewable Recipes

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My Bread by Jim Lahey and Rick Flaste (W.W. Norton, 2009) Profile: Kid's change everything, even how we cook.  The result? These days I have just as many “Kids” cooking books in my collection as non-kid centric cookbooks. But, only a few of those books have the ability to stand out... - read more Reviews: Project Foodie | Men's Journal | MSNBC Video | Martha Stewart Video | Macheesmo | The Kitchn | Macleans | Zester Daily | LA Weekly Serious Eats Project Foodie Top Baking Cookbook Selection Recipes: Viewable Recipes

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Rose's Heavenly Cakes  by Rose Levy Beranbaum (John Wiley & Sons, Inc, 2009) Profile: While I made cakes from scratch before getting my hands on this book, my cake baking has definitely been propelled forward knowing that Rose's clear instructions and guiding voice are only an arm's reach away... - read more Rose's Blog on Creating the Book Reviews: Project Foodie | The Gastronomer's Bookshelf | Publisher's Weekly Best of 2009 | Super Chef | LA Times Project Foodie Top Baking Cookbook Selection Recipes: Viewable Recipes

Chefs and Restaurants

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Ad Hoc At Home by Thomas Keller and Dave Cruz (Artisan Books, 2009) Reviews: Project Foodie | The Gastronomer's Bookshelf | Eat Me Daily | Food Gal | The Kitchn | The Food Paper | Michael Ruhlman | LA Times | Wall Street Journal | New Yorker Project Foodie Top General Cookbook Selection Recipes: Viewable Recipes

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Bottega Favorita by Frank Stitt (Artisan Books) Reviews: The Oregonian | The Global Gourmet | Serious Eats | Cookbook of the Day Recipes: Viewable Recipes

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How to Roast a Lamb by Michael Psilakis (Little, Brown and Company, 2009) Reviews: Project Foodie | Publisher's Weekly Best of 2009 | Super Chef | Montreal Gazette | Bookfoolery and Babble | Washington Post | SF Gate | The Atlantic | Gourmet | NPR Recipes: Viewable Recipes

Children, Youth and Family

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Baking Kids Love by Cindy Mushet and Sur La Table (Andrews McMeel, 2009) Reviews: Wall Street Journal | Super Chef | Modesto Bee | ABC Video | Arizona Foothills Magazine | Orange County Register | Parent Magazine Recipes: Viewable Recipes

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Mad Hungry by Lucinda Scala Quinn (Artisan Books, 2009) Reviews: Douglas Dispatch | The Oregonian | Detroit News Recipes: Viewable Recipes

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Williams-Sonoma Family Meals by Maria Helm Sinskey (Oxmoor House, 2009) Reviews: KQED

First Book: The Julia Child Award

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Seasonal Spanish Food by Jose Pizarro (Kyle Cathie, 2009) Reviews: caterersearch | Matt Bites | Culinary Travels | Hello magazine | JS online Recipes: Viewable Recipes

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The Brazilian Table by Yara Castro Roberts and Richard Roberts (Gibbs Smith, 2009) Reviews: The Gastronomer's Bookshelf | Sara Hohn | Delicious Brazil

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The New Portuguese Table: Exciting Flavors From Europe's Western Coast by David Leite (Clarkson Potter, 2009) Reviews: Project Foodie | Publisher's Weekly Best of 2009 | The Gastronomer's Bookshelf | The Kitchn | NJ | Three Dog Kitchen | Andrea's Recipes | Charlotte Observer Recipes: Viewable Recipes

Food Photography and Styling

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Hot and Hot Fish Club: A Celebration of Food, Family & Tradition by Chris Hastings and Idie Hastings, Stylist Chris Hastings (Running Press, 2009) Reviews: Wall Street Journal | Charleston City Paper | Pittsburgh Live | Cookbook of the Day Recipes: Viewable Recipes

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Restaurant Nicholas: The Cookbook by Nicholas Harary and Peter Zuorick, Photographer Steve Legato, Stylist Chris Fenison (Pediment Publishing, 2009) Recipes: ChefTalk | Cooking through Restaurant Nicholas Coobkook

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Williams-Sonoma Cooking for Friends by Alison Attenborough and Jamie Kimm, Photographer Petrina Tinslay, Stylists Alison Attenborough and Jamie Kimm (Oxmoor House, 2009) Recipes: The Kitchn

General

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Get Cooking by Mollie Katzen (HarperStudio, 2009) Reviews: Project Foodie | Free Lance-Star | Chicagoist | LA Times | KFSM Recipes: Viewable Recipes

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Stephanie Alexander's Kitchen Garden Companion by Stephanie Alexander (Penguin Group, 2009) Reviews: Taste.com.au | Gastronomy Gal | The Gastronomer’s Bookshelf | Cuisine.co.nz |  Puke Ariki | Visit Vineyards

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Williams-Sonoma Family Meals by Maria Helm Sinskey (Oxmoor House, 2009) Reviews: KQED

Health and Special Diet

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Golden Door Cooks at Home: Favorite Recipes from the Celebrated Spa by Dean Rucker and Marah Stets (Clarkson Potter, 2009) Reviews: Global Gourmet | Family Fresh Cooking | Blisstree | San Francisco Examiner | Basil and Spice | Keys News Recipes: Viewable Recipes

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Lucid Food: Cooking for an Eco-Conscious Life by Louisa Shafia (Ten Speed Press, 2009) Reviews: Saveur | Tasting Table | Philadelphia City Paper | Cooking with Amy | Not Eating Out in New York | Sustainable Table |  Chester County DWell | Susty Project Foodie Top Seasonal Cookbook Selection

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The Cancer-Fighting Kitchen: Nourishing, Big-Flavor Recipes for Cancer Treatment and Recovery by Rebecca Katz and Mat Edelson (Celestial Arts, an imprint of Ten Speed Press, 2009) Reviews: Food as Medicine | Search Heart Health | Belief Net

International

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Mastering the Art of Chinese Cooking by Eileen Yin-Fei Lo (Chronicle Books, 2009) Reviews: Gourmet Cookbooks | Dallas News | Epicurious | North Jersey Recipes: Viewable Recipes

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Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way by Francis Mallmann and Peter Kaminsky (Artisan Books, 2009) Reviews: Gastronomer’s Bookshelf | Eat Me Daily | Food 52 | Panache Privee | Food and Wine | Wall Street Journal | Michael Ruhlman | Serious Eats | New York Times

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The Songs of Sapa by Luke Nguyen (Murdoch Books, 2009) Reviews: City Eating | Bare Ingredients | Eat Streets

Single Subject

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Asian Dumplings: Mastering Gyoza, Spring Rolls, Samosas, and More by Andrea Nguyen (Ten Speed Press, 2009) Profile: Dumplings are something I consider a treat, something to feast on when I get the opportunity. Andrea Nguyen offers an alternative - under her guidance we can make our own dumplings right in our own kitchens ... read more Reviews: Matt Bites | Suite 101 | Michael Ruhlman | Tampa Bay Tribune | The Kitchn | MyNorthwest.com | San Francisco Examiner | Seattle Tall Poppy | Tasting Table | Seattle Magazine Recipes: Viewable Recipes

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Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way by Francis Mallmann and Peter Kaminsky (Artisan Books, 2009) Reviews: Gastronomer’s Bookshelf | Eat Me Daily | Food 52 | Panache Privee | Food and Wine | Wall Street Journal | Michael Ruhlman | Serious Eats | New York Times Recipes: Viewable Recipes

Compilations

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Cooking Light Way to Cook by Editors of Cooking Light (Oxmoor House, 2009) Reviews: Pittsburgh Post-Gazette | Jillian Frances | The Blone Mule | That’s Just Me

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Gourmet Today by Ruth Reichl (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2009) Reviews: Project Foodie | Wall Street Journal | Stovetop Readings | LA Times | Houston Chronicle | Seattle Weekly Project Foodie Top General Cookbook Selection Recipes: Viewable Recipes

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Southern Living Comfort Food by Editors of Southern Living (Oxmoor House, 2009) Reviews: The Times-Picayune

Culinary History

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Chocolate: History, Culture and Heritage by Louis Grivetti and Howard-Yana Shapiro (John Wiley & Sons, 2009) Reviews: New York Times | Smithsonian | UC Davis | Candyaddict.com

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From Demon to Darling: A Legal History of Wine in America by Richard Mendelson (University of California Press, 2009) Reviews: The Wine Economist | bookforum.com | Wines and Vines | The World of Fine Wine

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Of Sugar and Snow: A History of Ice Cream Making by Jeri Quinzio (University of California Press, 2009) Reviews: bookforum.com | Ice Cream Journal

Food and Beverage Reference/Technical

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The Deluxe Food Lover's Companion by Ron Herbst (Barron's Educational Series, 2009) Reviews: Martha Stewart Show (video) | Kirkus Reviews | OChef

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The Fundamental Techniques of Classic Pastry Arts by The French Culinary Institute (Harry N. Abrams, 2009) Reviews: Fabiana Santana | The French Culinary Institute

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Why Italians Love to Talk about Food by Elena Kostioukovitch (Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 2009) Reviews: LA Times | Simply Italy

Literary Food Writing

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Appetite City: A Culinary History of New York by William Grimes (North Point Press, 2009) Reviews: New York Times | Harden’s | Omnivoracious | San Francisco Examiner

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The Sweet Life in Paris by David Lebovitz (Broadway Books, 2009) Reviews: Simply Recipes | Boston Globe | The Atlantic | Dorie Greenspan | Super Chef | LA Times

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Waste by Tristram Stuart (W.W. Norton, 2009) Reviews: Financial Times | The Daily Telegraph | New Scientist | The Sunday Times

Professional Kitchens

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Baking and Pastry: Mastering the Art and Craft 2nd Ed. by The Culinary Institute of America (John Wiley & Sons, 2009) Reviews: cheftalk

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How to Bake Bread: The Five Families of Bread by Michael Kalanty (Red Seal Books, 2009) Reviews: Whats4Eats | San Francisco Chronicle

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International Cuisine by The International Culinary Schools at The Art Institutes (John Wiley & Sons, 2009)

Wine, Beer or Spirits

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The Finest Wines of Champagne: A Guide to the Best Cuvées, Houses, and Growers by Michael Edwards, (University of California Press, 2009) Reviews: LA Times | New York Times | Wine-pages.com

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The King of Vodka by Linda Himelstein (Harper, 2009) Reviews: Wall Street Journal | USA Today | Business Week | San Francisco Chronicle | The Passionate Foodie | AOL Money & Finance

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World Whiskey by Charles Maclean (DK Publishing, 2009) Reviews: Malt Advocate Magazine

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The fast paced world we live in doesn’t promote quiet, solitary, leisurely moments, but that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t seek them out.   For me, reading is a perfect way to relax and forget the stress of the day as I lay in bed before turning the lights out each night.  More often than not I’m reading a cookbook, yet I also manage to fit in a fair number of other books (still food related of course!).  Below is my selection of books that have had the honor of helping me relax over the past few months.….

That’s right it’s time for the Project Foodie Winter reading list, I hope you enjoy these books as much as I have.

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From Artisan Breads at Home

I was lured by the desire to make things myself rather than buying them at the store. What I fell in love with though is how a few simple ingredients, which on their own are less than memorable, can be turned into something absolutely delicious and heart warming.  The added bonus of preservative free bread, tailor made to my preferences simply cinched the deal.

Luckily for me bread making is a surging foodie trend - well at least, that is, if you consider the number of bread focused cookbooks published in the past year or two.   Actually, I see two different bread making trends right now.  One is the trend for no-knead bread and the other is for artisan bread.  While I'm all for making life easier, the no-knead bread trend isn't what I fell in love with.  

I like the feel of bread dough in my hands. I want to make different shapes of loaves and spend a whole day making several different types of bread.  That's not to say I want to knead bread dough, actually the opposite, and thankfully the artisan bread recipes I've fallen for don't make me do that (and some even offer no-knead type recipes).  What they do require is a mixer with a dough hook, which will do some initial kneading, and periodic stretch-and-folds.

Sound appealing?  To me it is both highly appealing and somewhat therapeutic. I also think the bread tastes better made in the artisan style.  

Several recent cookbooks provide wonderful artisan style bread recipes and teach you how to make those recipes.  My favorites are Peter Reinhart's Artisan Breads Every Day, Artisan Breads at Home, and  Baking Artisan Bread. If you're feeling a craving for making some bread these are great places to learn, but beware you may fall in love too!

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The recipes in Artisan Breads Every day still require stretch-and-fold sequences with waiting in between for the dough to develop, which in my book pushes them to the artisanal side of the fence.  But, the stretch-and-folds happen the day before you bake, unlike most other artisanal recipes, making the timing of the bread making similar to the no-knead methods. Crossing-back to the artisan world, dough shaping is a very important aspect of the technique Peter presents. Because the timing is different for these recipes, I make Peter's bread when I have less time on baking day than on the evening before - or if I have a craving for a particular recipe of his. 

A great example of the hybrid approach is in the "Pain a l'Ancienne Rustic Bread" recipe below.  The adaptability of the recipes in Artisan Breads Every Day is also appealing.  Immediately following the "Pain a l'Ancienne Rustic Bread" recipe, Peter has a "Pain a l'Ancienne Focaccia" recipe that uses the same formula but with a different method to create a wonderful focaccia.  Also, while many of the recipes have no-knead aspects others do not.  The result is a wide variety of recipes, including rich pastry-like breads that will keep you busy learning about artisan bread making while enjoying great results.

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I love the variety of recipes in Artisan Breads at Home, including several types of rolls (see the "Durum and Rosemary Rolls" recipe below), several sour dough variations and lots of mixed grain recipes.  Some of the enriched dough recipes are also really neat such as Craquelin, Concha, Day of the Dead Bread, and Stollen - a Christmas bread that you start over a month before.

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Pain à l'Ancienne Rustic Bread

Reprinted with permission from Peter Reinhart's Artisan Breads Every Day: Fast and Easy Recipes for World-Class Breads by Peter Reinhart, copyright © 2009. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc."

Makes 2 large ciabatta loaves, 3 small ciabatta loaves, or 6 to 8 mini baguettes

4 1/2 cups (20 oz / 567 g) unbleached bread flour
1 3/4 teaspoons (0.4 oz / 11 g) salt, or 2 1/2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt
1 1/4 teaspoons (0.14 oz / 4 g) instant yeast
2 cups (16 oz / 454 g) chilled water (about 55°F or 13°C)
1 tablespoon (0.5 oz / 14 g) olive oil (for ciabatta only)

Do Ahead

Combine the flour, salt, yeast, and water in a mixing bowl. If using a mixer, use the paddle attachment and mix on the lowest speed for 1 minute. If mixing by hand, use a large spoon and stir for about 1 minute, until well blended. The dough should be coarse and sticky. Let the dough rest for 5 minutes to fully hydrate the flour.

If making ciabatta, drizzle the olive oil over the dough; if making mini baguettes, omit the oil. Then mix on medium-low speed using the paddle attachment, or by hand using a large, wet spoon or wet hands, for 1 minute. The dough should become smoother but will still be very soft, sticky, and wet. Use a wet bowl scraper or spatula to transfer the dough to a clean, lightly oiled bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough rest at room temperature for 10 minutes.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled work surface. With wet or oiled hands, reach under the front end of the dough, stretch it out, then fold it back onto the top of the dough. Do this from the back end and then from each side, then flip the dough over and tuck it into a ball. The dough should be significantly firmer, though still very soft and fragile. Place the dough back in the bowl, cover, and let sit at room temperature for 10 minutes. Repeat this process three more times, completing all repetitions within 40 minutes. (You can also perform the stretch and folds in the bowl.)

After the final stretch and fold, immediately cover the bowl tightly and refrigerate overnight or for up to 4 days. The dough will rise, possibly to double its original size, in the refrigerator. (If you plan to bake the dough in batches over different days, you can portion the dough and place it into two or more oiled bowls at this stage.)

On Baking Day

Remove the dough from the refrigerator about 1 hour before baking for mini baguettes, and 3 hours in advance for ciabatta (or an hour earlier if the dough hasn't increased to 1 1/2 times its original size in the refrigerator overnight).

To make ciabatta, about 1 hour after taking the dough out of the refrigerator, line the back of a sheet pan with parchment paper and generously dust the entire surface with flour. Use a wet or oiled bowl scraper to transfer the dough to the work surface, taking care to handle the dough as little as possible to avoid degassing it.

Dust the top surface of the dough with flour and also flour your hands. Using your hands or a metal pastry scraper, gently coax and pat the dough into a rough square measuring about 9 inches on each side, still taking care to degas it as little as possible.

For small ciabatta, cut the dough into 3 even strips about 3 inches wide and 9 inches long (the pieces will each weigh about 12 ounces or 340 grams). For larger ciabatta, cut the dough in half. With floured hands, gently fold the dough in thirds, like folding a letter but without applying any pressure. Gently roll the folded dough in the dusting flour to coat it, then lift the dough and place it on the parchment paper, again rolling it in the dusting flour on the parchment. Rest the dough seam side down on the parchment and repeat with the other pieces of dough.

Mist the tops of the dough pieces with spray oil and loosely cover the pan with plastic wrap or a clean, lint-free towel. After 1 hour, gently roll the pieces over so the seam side is up, lift and cradle each piece with floured hands, and, working from the underside, gently coax it to a length of 5 inches (for small ciabatta) to 7 inches (for large ciabatta). Lay the pieces back on the parchment seam side up. Straighten the sides of each piece with your hands or a pastry scraper so that they are more rectangular than oblong, mist with spray oil again, then cover loosely and proof for 1 hour more.

About 45 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 550°F (288°C) or as high as it will go, and prepare the oven for hearth baking.

Slide the dough, parchment and all, onto the stone; if you aren't using a baking stone, simply put the whole pan into the oven. Pour 1 cup of hot water into the steam pan, then lower the oven temperature to 450°F (232°C).

Bake for 12 minutes, then rotate the pan and bake for 15 to 20 minutes more, until the crust is a rich brown (streaked with the dusting flour). The bread should puff a little, and the crust should be hard when tapped (it'll soften as it cools). Cool on a wire rack for 45 minutes before slicing.

Durum and Rosemary Rolls

From Artisan Breads at Home by Eric Kastel, Wiley 2010

Durum flour-a wheat flour high in protein and gluten strength-contributes a slight yellowish hue to these aromatic rolls. Flavors of chopped rosemary and olive oil bring to mind thoughts of the Mediterranean.

yield: 22 rolls at 2 oz | FDT: 82°F

bulk fermentation: 75-90 minutes  

final fermentation: 40-50 minutes 

bake: 450°F and 18-20 minutes

1. Put the water, oil and malt in the bowl of a mixer. Combine the flours and yeast and add to the bowl, then add the salt. Place the bowl on a mixer fitted with a dough hook, and mix on medium speed for 4 minutes, making sure to scrape the bowl and flip the dough over once during mixing. Add the rosemary and mix for another minute on medium speed, making sure to flip the dough over halfway through the mixing time. Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl large enough for it to double in size and cover with plastic wrap.

2. Allow the dough to rest and ferment in a warm place for 60-75 minutes, until when lightly pressed the dough springs back halfway.

3. Place the dough on a lightly floured work surface, and stretch it out slightly. Fold the dough in thirds. Place the dough back into the bowl, re-cover it with plastic wrap, and let it rest for an additional 15 minutes.

4. Prepare a tray with a cloth that is lightly floured with durum flour.

5. Place the dough on a lightly floured work surface and divide it into 2-oz pieces. Round each piece against the tabletop. Place the rounded pieces seam-side up on the prepared tray, bringing the cloth up between each row of rolls. Cover the tray with plastic
wrap and place in a warm place for 40-50 minutes, until when lightly touched the dough springs back halfway.

6. Twenty minutes before the end of the final fermentation, preheat the oven to 475°F with a baking stone. Ten minutes before baking the loaves, place a tray filled with 3 cups of warm water below the baking area in the oven to help produce steam.

7. The bread will be baked in 2 separate batches. Lightly flour an oven peel and place the rolls on the oven peel. Spray the rolls with water and let them rest for 5 minutes, then spray with water again. Score the tops with an X using a sharp razor blade held at a 90-degree angle to the top of the roll.

8. Transfer the rolls to the baking stone and immediately reduce the temperature to 450°F. Bake for 10 minutes, then remove the steam tray and continue baking for an additional 8-10 minutes, until they form a golden brown firm crust.

9. Remove the rolls from the oven and place on a cooling rack. Raise the oven temperature and then bake the second batch immediately.

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