Do you stir-fry? 

I used to get various assortments of vegetables at the Farmers' Market, cook them in a skillet and serve them over rice - stir-frying right? Well... I'm not saying the result wasn't tasty but it certainly wasn't a stir-fry. 

So what is stir-frying?  Grace Young sought out Chinese cooks from all over the world to find the answer to just that question. The result is "Stir-Frying to the Sky's Edge". From simple to not so simple, from meat to meat-less, and from traditional to modern Grace teaches you how to produce great stir-frys.

I've only begun, but already I've learned enough to know that dinner after a trip to the Farmers' Market won't be the same again.  Of course, the recipes require a bit more than fresh vegetables - the Chinese pantry can be a bit overwhelming if you aren't familiar with it, but Grace helps with that too.  

I started with Stir-Fried Eggs with Velvet Shrimp (see recipe below) because I have a thing for eggs and have always wanted to create a velvet dish. The dish is also fairly straightforward and doesn't require a bunch of new pantry items. 

I can't say I've mastered Stir-Frying yet, but that's the fun part of tackling a new cookbook isn't it?  Practice makes perfect… 

Stir-Fried Eggs with Velvet Shrimp

amazon.com

Velvet shrimp radically transform stir-fried eggs into a sophisticated dish. The shrimp are not velveted in the true sense of the technique (see Velvet Stir-Fry, page 100) because they are not blanched in oil or water. Nonetheless, the light egg white-cornstarch marinade gives the shrimp the "crisp" silky texture revered by Chinese food devotees. I take the teaspoon of egg white needed for the marinade from one of the eggs rather than break open a fifth egg. After refrigerating the marinated shrimp, be sure to let them stand at room temperature for 15 minutes

before stir-frying; if the shrimp are ice cold, they will not be cooked by the time the eggs are just set. I prefer to stir-fry these eggs in a wok. If you want to use a skillet, it may require another tablespoon of oil to prevent the eggs from sticking.

• 4 ounces small shrimp, peeled, deveined, and patted dry
• 4 large eggs, 1 teaspoon egg white reserved
• 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch
• 2 1/2 teaspoons Shao Hsing rice wine or dry sherry
• 1/8 plus 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon plus 2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil
• 1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper
• 1/3 cup chopped scallions
• 1 tablespoon minced ginger
• 1/3 cup frozen peas, defrosted

1. In a medium bowl combine the shrimp, the 1 teaspoon egg white, cornstarch, 1/2 teaspoon of the rice wine, and 1/8 teaspoon of the salt. Stir until the cornstarch has dissolved. Stir in 1 teaspoon of the oil. Put the shrimp uncovered in the refrigerator for 15 minutes. Bring the shrimp to room temperature for 15 minutes. In a medium bowl beat the eggs, pepper, and the remaining 2 teaspoons rice wine and 1/4 teaspoon salt.

2. Heat a 14-inch flat-bottomed wok or 12-inch skillet over high heat until a bead of water vaporizes within 1 to 2 seconds of contact. Swirl in the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, add the scallions and ginger, then, using a metal spatula, stir-fry 10 seconds or until the aromatics are fragrant. Add the shrimp and stir-fry 1 minute or until the shrimp begins to turn color but is not cooked through. Add the peas, swirl the egg mixture into the wok, and stir-fry 1 minute or until the shrimp is cooked through and the eggs are just set but still moist. Do not overcook.

Serves 2 as a main dish with rice or 4 as part of a multicourse meal.

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What's your 'problem' dish? You know that dish you just never seem to be able to make right. We all have them.  

For years mine has been potato salad. 

I've tried numerous recipes and none of them measure up to the taste and texture I was looking for.  To be clear I wanted a creamy, thick, eggy, potato salad with some dill flavor.  Since I couldn't make my own I've been buying prepared potato salad at my local market . Now that may not sound bad, but when you consider I make my own bread, pasta and nearly anything else it really was very big breach of character for me.

That's why I had to seek help.  Thankfully, for me, food help is only an email away to a dear friend who was very kind to help.  I simply asked her:

"Do you have a favorite potato salad recipe? I'm never happy with any I make..."

Her reply was quick, but not exactly what I was hoping for. She said:

"hmmm. I can't say that I use a recipe.  Here's the basic gig:

1. Boil russet potatoes in their skins, or boil unpeeled Yukon Gold or red-skinned potatoes, just until tender

2. Meanwhile, make a full-flavored, mustardy vinaigrette.

3. When the spuds are cool enough to handle, peel the russets (leave skins on the other potatoes) and cut into bite-size chunks & put in a large bowl. Pour in the vinaigrette and toss gently with a rubber spatula to coat evenly. The potatoes will absorb the vinaigrette. Leave to cool at room temp.

4. When the potatoes are cool, this is when you make it your own:

-add a generous amount of Best Foods mayo, or a combo of about 2 parts may to 1 part sour cream.

-taste, and then add salt and pepper to taste. If it seems a bit bland, pour in a little dill pickle juice straight out of the jar. (I hate pickles in potato salad. I find this far more civilized...but it's your party, so make it however you want :o)

-sometimes I'll add coarsely chopped hard-cooked eggs or chopped fresh parsley, if I'm in the mood

-Lots of chopped celery is a must; as well as about half as much sliced green onions (or maybe even 1/3, if you're not crazy about scallions) cover & refrigerate for at least a couple of hours to blend the flavors...you may have to add some more mayo

If you prefer to follow a recipe, I'd probably trust Ina Garten.

Hope this helps.?

At first I wasn't sure it would help,  it sure doesn't look like a magic bullet potato salad recipe does it?  And I admit I really did want a full-fledged recipe.  I'm not a big improviser and given the problems I've had with potato salad I had doubts anything short of a very specific recipe would help. But I am a foodie so I took the challenge head on.

The potato salad I made following these directions was not only the best I've ever made but far better than any I've bought!  

Here's how I made it.

• 1. Boil 3 pounds of Red potatoes.
• 2. Prepare Perfect Mustard Vinaigrette from Martha Stewart Living,
  
  

  Perfect Mustard Vinaigrette (Martha Stewart Living, April, 2001) Ingredients: finding recipe... finding ingredients... My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) close comment | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

   
• 3. When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, cut into bite-size chunks & put in a large bowl.
• 4. Pour in about ¾ cup vinaigrette and toss gently with a rubber spatula to coat evenly. The potatoes will absorb the vinaigrette. Leave to cool at room temperature.  [You could easily use more of the vinaigrette, especially if you want a bit more mustard flavor. In fact next time I'm probably going to use all of the vinaigrette.]
• 5. Slice about 3 stalks of celery, half of a bunch of scallions, some parsley, and fresh dill. Set aside in small bowls for mixing in.
• 6. Prepare four hard-boiled eggs.
• 7. When the potatoes are cool mix in mayonnaise, salt, pepper and the above items. I didn't measure the amounts. I started with two large spoonfuls of mayonnaise and about half of the celery/scallions.  Then I seasoned with salt/pepper and added small amounts of parsley, dill and more mayonnaise until I got the taste/texture I wanted.  
• 8. Refrigerate for a few hours to let the flavors meld.
  

Nope it's not a hard-set recipe. but I'm confident I'll never again have any problems making potato salad !

However, if the thought of improvising for this salad does scare you here are a couple of Ina Garten's potato salad recipes :

French Potato Salad (Barefoot Contessa, Episode: I Scream For Ice Cream, Season: 2) Ingredients: finding recipe... finding ingredients... My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) close comment | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Herb Potato Salad (Barefoot Contessa, Episode: Flavors And Flowers, Season: 8) Ingredients: finding recipe... finding ingredients... My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) close comment | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

New Potato Salad (Barefoot Contessa, Episode: Barefoot Reunion, Season: 4) Ingredients: finding recipe... finding ingredients... My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) close comment | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

Sweet-and-Sticky Baby Back Ribs (Ribs, Chops, Steaks, & Wings by Ray Lampe, 2010) My Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 View: finding recipe... More Actions: add comment cancel add comment | view comment (0) close comment | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share Edit Tags Rename Tag to My Notes: - Private info just for you! Add Comment: Comments:

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Summer is the high season for fresh fruit and vegetables; so much so that I often find the fruit too plentiful.  It's probably my own fault.  When I go to the farmers' market and sample all those fruits I'm lured in by their wonderful fresh-picked flavor and I buy more than I should.  Sometimes so much extra that I really don't even need to go to the farmers' market again the next week.

While I'm not sure my particular predicament was the motivation, but Jennie Schacht's Farmers' Market Desserts is a great source for uses of my extra fruit. 

Take blueberries, which are at their peak right now here in California.  The blueberry stand at my market was overflowing with blueberries this week.  While I could have bought just a half-pint to eat with my cereal for breakfast it seemed a waste to not get more, especially since they are at their peak for such a short time each year.  But I didn't want to make the old-standby blueberry muffins - don't get me wrong I love blueberry muffins but its not really my favorite choice for fresh blueberries.  Instead, Jennie offers a great parfait that uses the blueberries whole. It also uses rhubarb, something I don't eat nearly as often as I'd like to, but since rhubarb isn't always available at the same time as blueberries Jennie suggests strawberries or raspberries as great alternatives.

That's just one example but I'm sure you get the idea.  Farmers' Market Desserts lets me enjoy the best fruit of summer in great dishes while also introducing new fruits you might not normally try out. 

And as Jennie says, if the blueberries are still in-season for you on July 4th the parfait has the perfect Red, White and Blue theme!

Rhubarb, Blueberry & Cream Parfait

amazon.com

• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 2 tablespoons water
• 1 pound rhubarb (about 4 medium to large stalks), leaves discarded and stalks cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• Small pinch of kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice

Crunch Topping

• 1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1/4 cup old-fashioned rolled oats
• 1/3 cup gently packed light brown sugar
• 1 1/2 teaspoons ground ginger
• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cold, cut into 8 pieces
• 1/2 cup sliced almonds

Filling

• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• 1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
• 2 teaspoons granulated sugar
• 1 pint (2 cups) blueberries

To make the sauce, stir together the sugar and water in a nonreactive saucepan over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Add the rhubarb and stir to coat with the sugar syrup. Reduce the heat to a slow simmer, cover, and cook until the fruit is quite soft, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat. Process until smooth using an immersion blender or standard blender, or mash and stir with a fork. Stir in the salt and lime juice, then taste and adjust with sugar or lime, if needed. (It will taste sweeter chilled than hot.) Let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate in a covered container until cold, at least 2 hours or up to 2 days.

To make the topping, stir together the flour, oats, brown sugar, ginger, and salt in a bowl. Sprinkle the vanilla evenly over the mixture, then scatter the butter over the mixture. Using your fingertips, rub in the butter until the mixture looks like wet, clumpy sand. Scatter the almonds over the top and mix them in with your fingers. Cover and refrigerate the topping for 30 minutes.

While the topping chills, preheat the oven to 375oF, with a rack near the center. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper.

Use your fingers to crumble the topping mixture onto the baking sheet. It should look roughly like granola, with a few larger clumps. Bake until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes, stirring and turning with a spatula once or twice during baking. Let cool completely before using. (It will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week.)

To serve, using a chilled bowl and beaters, whip together the cream, crème fraîche, and sugar until the mixture holds medium-firm peaks.

Layer the cream, rhubarb, crunch topping, and berries in 4 parfait glasses. As a guide-without worrying about using exact quantities-divide one-third of the cream among the 4 glasses. Layer half of the rhubarb sauce over the cream. Sprinkle about 1 tablespoon of the topping into each glass. Then, sprinkle one-third of the berries over the topping in the 4 glasses. Repeat the layers, using half of the remaining cream, all of the remaining rhubarb, about 1 tablespoon of crunch topping for each glass, and half of the remaining berries. Top the parfaits evenly with the remaining cream, and then sprinkle evenly with the remaining berries. Finally, sprinkle lightly with some crunch topping. (You will have some crunch topping remaining.)

Serve immediately, or cover tightly and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. The crunch will soften but will still add great flavor and texture.

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How do you know when you've found a great dessert?  For me, it's when I want to make the dessert again (and again), almost immediately after having devoured what I made the first time.

Thanks to Bill Yosses, I've found several such recipes in his "The Perfect Finish".  While I don't think any recipe can really be perfect these are certainly perfect ways to finish a meal.

It's berry season right now and thanks to Bill Yosses I'll be enjoying my berries in luscious, berrilicious desserts as long as they remain in season.  My two favorites are the Blueberry Angel Muffins and the Blackberry Buttermilk Bundt Cake (recipes below), although he's also got a great looking strawberry cake.   

And before you say blueberry muffins? How boring?  Think again -- these aren't your standard blueberry muffins by any stretch of the imagination.  They are actually little tiny angel food cakes packed with blueberries!  If you have blueberries on hand, or if you want to use up some extra egg whites (from say some pasta making like I did), this is the perfect choice.

As great as the blueberry muffins are the Blackberry Butermilk Bundt Cake really stole my heart and is the dish I've made again and again.  The cake is topped with an orange glaze, which combined with the buttermilk, makes for a super moist and tasty cake.  Blackberries are in season in California for several more weeks so I'm positive this cake will serve as the Perfect Finish to more of my summer meals.

I can't wait to try all the other desserts in The Perfect Finish - once I get done with my Blackberry Buttermilk Bundt Cake fetish that is…

Blackberry Buttermilk Bundt with Orange Glaze

amazon.com

When working at Bouley Restaurant we were always thrilled to find a celebrity looking over our shoulder in the kitchen. It was just the nature of the place, I guess, and the nature of the irrepressible maître d', Dominique Simon, who delighted in telling the well-known celebrity that because of their elevated status they would be "allowed" into the kitchen. Most paid a visit to the kitchen, if only to stretch their legs between courses. One person in particular stands out, and I suppose I can talk about it now that it is more than ten years ago. The great actor Liam Neeson said something I will always remember: "I feel like my craft is like whittling wood, I want to remove all the excess until I find the perfect and smallest place to be, without anything extra." I think anyone who loves their work can relate to this, and I am always trying to find that perfect, unadorned dessert item, the one that has all it needs and nothing more, nothing less. One of the reasons I love the Blackberry Buttermilk Bundt is that it fits that bill, it has the taste of blackberries, a sweet and semiwild flavor, and the sour note of buttermilk to counteract the sugar, and finally the glaze to give it just a little edge. I put "buttermilk" in the title of this dessert because it does so much to change the flavor radically, and its sour kick is what sets this soft-textured yellow cake apart. The buttermilk tang, combined with the sweetness of the berries and richness of the butter, is what makes you want to reach for the next piece. Balance is the most important part of any dessert, or savory dish for that matter, and the blackberry/buttermilk duet here is in perfect harmony. Because of its simplicity, this cake is a good choice for a brunch.

Chef's Note: I like to use a wooden spoon to fold berries into cake batter. The rough surface moves the fruit more efficiently than the smooth surface of a rubber spatula, incorporating the berries without crushing them.

Makes 1 bundt cake to serve 8 to 10

Special Equipment: 2-Quart Bundt pan, electric mixer, cake tester, skewer

• 2 2/3 cups all-purpose flour (10.5 ounces, 300 grams)
• 1 tablespoon baking powder (14.7 grams)
• ½ teaspoon salt (3.35 grams)
• ½ teaspoon baking soda (2.5 grams)
• ½ pound unsalted butter (2 sticks), softened (8 ounces, 227 grams), plus additional for the pan
• 1¾ cups sugar (12.25 ounces, 350 grams)
• 4 large eggs (6.8 ounces, 193 grams), at room temperature
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract (8 grams)
• ½ cup buttermilk (4.25 ounce, 121 grams)
• 2 pints blackberries (16 ounces, 454 grams)

Orange Glaze

• ½ cup freshly squeezed orange juice (from about 1 medium orange) (4.25 ounces, 121 grams)
• ½ cup confectioners' sugar (2 ounces, 57 grams)

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 2-quart anti-adhesive Bundt pan with some butter, then spray lightly with nonstick cooking spray. You don't want this cake to stick! The new anti-adhesive cake pans prevent the bottom of the cake from sticking to the pan.

2. In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda.

3. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium-high speed until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs one at a time until incorporated. Beat in the vanilla. Reduce the speed to low and mix in half the flour mixture. Mix in the buttermilk, then the remaining flour mixture. Using a wooden spoon, gently fold in the blackberries.

4. Pour the batter into the prepared Bundt pan. Bake the cake until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean, about 1 hour. Let the cake cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then invert onto the serving platter.

For the Glaze

1. While the cake cools, combine the orange juice and sugar in a small saucepan and simmer over low heat until the sugar is dissolved.

2. Using a skewer or long thin knife, prick deep holes all over the surface of the cake. Pour half the glaze over the cake, letting it seep into the holes. Let the cake cool for 20 minutes more. Pour the remaining glaze over the cake and let set for 10 minutes. Slice and serve.

Blueberry Angel Muffins

From The Perfect Finish by Bill Yosses and Melissa Clark. W.W. Norton & Company (2010).

These muffins have so much going for them. Not only do they happen to be fat free, they're also a cake, small and fruit filled. Thus they allow you to tap into the psychic pleasure of eating cake-a virtuous cake-for breakfast, with your nice cup of coffee. For the most stupendous results, make these muffins just a few hours before you serve them; they will be buoyantly fluffy, with only a tiny bit of pleasing chewy resistance before they melt in your mouth, leaving the amazing flavors of blueberries and vanilla lingering on your tongue.

If you somehow manage to have muffins left over, toast them before serving. They can even be frozen, then toasted. The toasted muffins won't have that same airy texture, but they'll still be tasty. In fact, Melissa likes to spread toasted blueberry muffins with butter-a good antidote if you miss the fat in angel food!

Chef's Note: In order to keep the muffins light, once you beat the egg whites to their peak volume, you don't want to disturb the batter any more than necessary. That's why I toss the vanilla and berries together in a bowl, then fold half of them into the batter and top the muffins with the rest, rather than mixing in the vanilla earlier and stirring all the berries in, as you might in a conventional blueberry muffin recipe. (If you want to know more about meringue, the key to this muffin's fluffiness, see the discussion of meringue on page 15.) The goal is to avoid crushing the airiness-better to mix the berries in less evenly than to lose all that lift.

Makes 12 standard-size muffins

Special Equipment: 12-cup standard-size muffin tin, sifter, electric mixer, cake tester       

• Nonstick cooking spray, for the muffin cups
• 2/3 cup cake flour (2.67 ounces, 76 grams)
• ½ cup confectioners' sugar (2 ounces, 57 grams)
• ¼ teaspoon salt (1.25 grams)
• 1¼ cups blueberries (6.5 ounces, 185 grams)
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract (8 grams)
• 8 large egg whites (7 ounces, 200 grams), at room temperature
• Pinch of cream of tartar
• ½ cup granulated sugar (3.5 ounces, 99 grams), plus 6 teaspoons additional for sprinkling
• Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven. Lightly grease a standard-size muffin tin with nonstick cooking spray, or use ungreased paper muffin cups.

2. Sift the cake flour, confectioners' sugar, and salt onto a piece of parchment or waxed paper and set aside. In a small bowl, toss the blueberries with the vanilla.

3. In a clean bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites and cream of tartar on medium-low speed until frothy. Add 1 tablespoon of the granulated sugar and beat at medium until soft peaks form. Beat in the remaining granulated sugar, and raise the speed to high. Beat until stiff peaks form. While the eggs are beating, preheat the oven to 375°F.

4. When you have stiff peaks, stop the machine and remove the bowl. Immediately sprinkle the dry ingredients and lemon zest over the egg whites and fold in with a rubber spatula, working carefully to avoid deflating the whites. Fold in half of the blueberries.

5. Divide the batter among the muffin cups so that each is two-thirds full. Top each muffin with a few more blueberries and sprinkle each with 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar.

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Mint Chocolate Crunch Ice Cream Cake

amazon.com

Makes 12 servings

Mixing time 10 minutes

Baking 325°F (165°C/gas mark 3) for about 6 minutes

Chocolate crumb crust

• One 9-oz (255-g) package chocolate wafers, processed to crumbs in a food processor (about 2 cups total)
• 6 tbsp (85 g) unsalted butter, melted

Mint chocolate crunch

• 2 cups (250 g) chocolate mint sandwich cookies (such as 20 Pepperidge Farm Chocolate Mint Milano cookies)
• 4 oz (115 g) semisweet (plain) chocolate, chopped
• 1 tbsp corn or canola oil
• 2 qt (2 l) mint chocolate chip or peppermint ice cream, softened just until spreadable

Position a rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C/gas mark 3). Butter a 9-in (23-cm) springform pan with at least 2 3/4-in (7-cm) sides.

To make the crust: In a large bowl, stir the wafer crumbs and melted butter together to moisten the crumbs evenly. Scrape the crumb mixture into the prepared pan. Using the back of your fingers or the back of a spoon, press the crumb mixture evenly over the bottom and 1 in (2.5 cm) up the sides of the pan. Be careful not to make the crust too thick on the bottom where it meets the sides. Bake for 6 minutes. Let cool thoroughly before adding the ice cream.

Make the mint chocolate crunch. Line a baking sheet (tray) with parchment (baking) paper. Put the cookie crumbs in a large bowl and set aside. Put the chocolate and the oil in a heatproof bowl (or the top of a double boiler) and place it over, but not touching, barely simmering water in a saucepan (or the bottom of a double boiler). Stir until the chocolate is melted and smooth.

Pour the melted chocolate over the cookie crumbs and stir until the crumbs are coated evenly. The mixture will look shiny and form pieces that vary from about 1/4 in (6 mm) to 1/2 in (12 mm). Spread the crumb mixture in the prepared baking sheet. As it cools, it will turn from shiny to dull and become crisp. You will have about 3 cups (365 g) mint chocolate crunch.

Use an ice cream spade to spread half of the ice cream in the cooled crust. Smooth the top. Sprinkle evenly with half of the mint chocolate crunch. Spread the remaining ice cream over the crunch. Sprinkle evenly with the remaining crunch. Wrap the cake, in its pan, tightly in plastic wrap (cling film) and then in heavy aluminum foil. Freeze overnight or for up to 1 week.

To serve the cake, unwrap it, and use a thin, sharp knife to loosen the cake from the sides of the pan. Remove the sides, and use a large, sharp knife to cut the cake into slices.

Choices: Substitute chocolate or vanilla ice cream for the mint ice cream.

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