Santorini is an island in the southern Aegean Sea and a regular stop for cruise ships wending their way through the Greek isles.  Although it is jam-packed with tourists during the summer months, visitors to Santorini, dazzled by its dramatic beauty, write glowingly about their time on the island.

Modern Santorini was shaped by a violent volcanic eruption that occurred around 1500 BC.  The volcano blew away the center of the island, forming a huge caldera.  Some have theorized that Santorini is the site of mythical Atlantis, and the eruption that caused Atlantis to be swallowed up by the sea. Santorini’s volcano is still active.

Two years ago, we visited Santorini in early April.  Because the season had not yet begun, we often had Santorini’s narrow village streets to ourselves.  Many of the shops were closed. We had a great time.

The shopkeepers and restaurant owners were happy to see us, not yet jaded by a full season of tending tourists.   Over glasses of Santorini’s crisp Assyrtiko white wine, our hotel’s owner told us about the island’s bone-dry volcanic soil and the crops that thrive in it.

“Waterless” tomatoes, capers, yellow split peas (called fava in Greece), and wine grapes are Santorini’s most important agricultural products.  When we left, my bags were packed with jars of sun-dried Santorini tomatoes, dried capers, pickled caper leaves, and a kilo of fava.

One of the best things I ate on Santorini was locally-caught Shrimp in Tomato and Caper Sauce. The intense taste of Santorini’s sun-dried tomatoes boosted the sauce’s tomato flavor, and tangy capers made the dish truly special. 

Shrimp Santorini in Tomato and Caper Sauce (Γαρίδες Σαντορίνης)

Serves 4

Capers are salty, so don’t add too much salt until after you’ve tasted the sauce with capers in it.  Shrimp stay more tender when cooked at low temperature.  No matter the temperature, shrimp cook quickly and must be watched carefully to prevent them from overcooking and getting tough.  My husband likes this with a little fresh lemon juice squeezed over; I prefer it without.

Tomato Sauce:

• 1 1/2 cups diced onions, 1/4” dice
• 2 Tbsp. olive oil
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 tsp. Aleppo pepper (optional)
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1 14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes or 1 1/2 cups fresh, with juices
• 1 1/2 cups water
• 1 bay leaf
• 2 tsp. oregano
• 3 Tbsp. minced sun-dried tomatoes in oil or 1 1/2 Tbsp. tomato paste
• 3 Tbsp. capers, preferably salted, rinsed and soaked to remove excess salt

Shirmp:

• 1 1/2 pounds shrimp, shelled
• Lemon wedges (optional)

Sauté the onions, lightly seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper, in olive oil until the onions soften and start to turn golden. Stir in the Aleppo pepper and cook for 1 minute. Add the white wine and boil until it is reduced by half.  Stir in the tomatoes, water, bay leaf, and oregano. Bring to a boil, cover, turn down the heat, and simmer for 45 – 60 minutes or until the sauce thickens and its flavors meld together. If the sauce is too thick, add a little water. Turn off the heat and stir in the sun-dried tomatoes and capers. Taste and add salt or freshly ground black pepper, as needed. (This can be made well ahead.)

Wash and dry the shrimp. Season them with salt and freshly ground black pepper on both sides.  Bring the sauce to a simmer and add the shrimp.  Cook just until the shrimp turn pink, about 5 minutes total.  Serve immediately with chunks of feta cheese, oil-cured black olives, a crisp green salad, and plenty of crusty bread for mopping up the sauce.

About Laurie Helen Constantino

Laurie Helen Constantino and her husband have homes in Anchorage, Alaska, and on a rural Greek island. In both kitchens, the foods of the Mediterranean play a starring role. She writes about Greek and Mediterranean cooking for her blog, Mediterranean Cooking in Alaska. In 2007, her first cookbook "Tastes Like Home: Mediterranean Cooking in Alaska" was published.