After the holiday season is over and the New Year begins, we are often looking forward to the lighter fare and the accompanying white wines that are soon to come in spring, but its still late winter, ski season, where there is still a fair amount of cold crisp weather in many areas of the world. I’m still not done with my comfort foods, and with these, certain wines seem to come to mind when I am choosing a red wine to accompany meals.

For many wine lovers, the Sangiovese based wines of the more Mediterranean climate of Tuscany, such as Chianti or Brunello, first come to mind when thinking of great Italian wine, but some of the greatest wines in the world are produced in the northeast of Italy in the region of Piedmont. This region, sharing borders with France and Switzerland, is an alpine area sandwiched between the mountain ranges of the Alps and the Apennines. It is in this cool northerly climate that the noble dark grape varietal called Nebbiolo is made into some of the finest red wine in the world. The name of the grape is a derivation of nebbia which means fog, and it comes from the frequently foggy conditions common in October when the grapes are harvested. Nebbiolo is a late ripening varietal and it produces medium bodied wines of high acidity with powerful tannins. They often require extensive aging to soften the tannins and enhance their elegance.  It should be noted that Nebbiolo can be grown and vinified in other parts of the world including California and other New World wine producing areas, but because this grape is so distinctively shaped by the local growing conditions in Piedmont, in my experience, they are distinctly different than the classic Italian versions.

Within Piedmont, Nebbiolo is primarily harvested in the region of Alba, and the most famous versions of these are called Barolo and Barbaresco, after the respective towns where they are produced. Barolo traditionally produces wines that are austere and tannic in their youth but which evolve into beautifully balanced wines over a decade or more. Barbaresco wines are typically a little more forward and approachable in their youth, and have slightly less alcohol; both wines spend at least 3 years in the barrel before they are released to the market. In recent years there has been a trend to produce a more modern version of the traditional Barolo that is aged in new oak barrels rather than old, this adds a new world touch to the wines that sets off the natural tannic structure. It’s a good idea to ask when shopping whether the wine is newer styled or traditional Barolo, both are good, but the traditional versions will generally need several more years of cellar time to mellow the tannins.. There are also many Nebbiolo wines produced outside of these towns as well. Producers in towns like Ghemme, Gattinarra  and Alba make blends made primarily from Nebbiolo, these wines are notable for their early approachability, often coming into their own within 5 or 6 years of barrel and bottle aging; their relative affordability make them an excellent choice for an everyday meal accompaniment.

Nebbiolo wines are notable for their highly recognizable aromas of violets and tar and they often have hints of wild strawberries, mint, licorice, roses, chocolate, truffles, eucalyptus or camphor as well. Now, while you may think that tar and camphor may not be your favorite food accompaniments, these wines are wonderfully balanced and delicious with many of those meals that we love to prepare in cool weather. I serve them with tomato-based pasta dishes and roasted meats like beef, pork and lamb, venison, game birds and aged hard cheeses.

An apt comparison to Nebbiolo wines from Italy is France’s Burgundy from Pinot Noir as both are relatively high acid wines which lend themselves wonderfully to aging and although Nebbiolo is more tannic in its youth, as both of these wines age, they become more and more similar. Both are great with the cuisine of many different cultures as well as their own regional fare.

Although the more pricey versions of Barolo and Barbaresco may be out of reach except for special occasions and will require a fair amount of time in a wine cellar, you should be able to find more affordable and ready to drink versions from Piedmont with a quick search at your local wine merchants shop. I have seen several recently in the 15 to 35 dollar range, and they were ready to open today. Decant them for an hour more for the best result, and as with Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo tastes best when served in large, wide-mouthed glasses which allow its delicate aromas to expand fully.

About the Vintner 

The Wine Club has been offering fine wines and accessories at discounted prices since 1985. Today there are 3 stores in California: Santa Ana, San Francisco, and Santa Clara, and www.thewineclub.com, a web store that has a constantly changing inventory of over 1200 different wines and accessory items for you to choose from, you can pick them up or we can ship to most of the USA. Stores are open 7 days a week and each has wine tasting events scheduled on most weekends, so come on by and visit.