A light white mist gently cascades over lush green hills of tea bushes as our little grey van climbs its way up a bumpy country road.  This is my first visit to a tea farm as I travel with friends through Hangzhou, a beautiful city on the coast of China, a detour that was made just for me because of my interest in tea.  As we come closer to the hills I can see the tea pickers nimbly harvesting the tea shoots with such speed and accuracy that it leaves me speechless.  Here amid the tea bushes that seem to cover the surrounding landscape and the wafting scent of wok firing green tealeaves, I can see why China is also known as “The Homeland of Tea.”

My First Tea in China

As we enter the teahouse on the grounds of the tea farm we are greeted by a young lady who invites us in for tea.  She scoops some Dragonwell green tea into a glass as she retells the classic legend of the discovery of tea in China.  Five thousand years ago, during the birth of the Chinese civilization, a legendary figure by the name of Shen Nong, the bringer of agriculture and medicine, first tasted tea when the leaves of the tea plant fell into water he was boiling.  This legend gives us our first glimpse into the development of tea in China.  Through the centuries and passing of dynasties, tea went from medicinal herb, to flavored soup, to everyday beverage, to imperial tribute, to cultural icon.  Tea is an integral part of Chinese culture and this young lady is certainly not letting us forget that.  As she tells the story she has poured hot water into the glass and gracefully pulls the kettle up and down, churning the bright green leaves, creating a wonderful dance of color in the glass.  The resulting brew is buttery and rich, hints of soybean and vegetables.  This is definitely not your everyday green tea bag!  Sitting here amid the lush tea gardens sipping tea, I somehow feel very much connected to the past.

A Sip in Taiwan

From its roots in China, tea crossed a strait and situated itself firmly in the culture of Taiwan.  My first tea experience in Taiwan was not in a tea field but selecting teas for the Tillerman Tea Company with proprietor, David Campbell, in the small office of a tea master in Taipei city, who must know more about Taiwanese tea and tea culture than anyone else.  Master Chen Huan Tang regales us with all the varieties of Taiwanese oolongs, a semi-oxidized tea that can be 20% oxidized, resulting in a more floral vegetal tea, to 80% oxidized, a more toasty nutty tea.  The tradition in Taiwan might have come from China but there is now a distinct style of tea on this beautiful island.  The misty mountainous terrain of Taiwan creates unique flavor profiles and the Taiwanese tea masters take full advantage of this.  Master Chen brews a Lishan (the direct translation would be Pear Mountain) oolong for us and the brew has a wonderful balance of floral sweetness and a buttery creaminess. David and I both know this is a must have for our Napa based tea shop.  This is one of Taiwan’s most famous oolongs and Master Chen produces it in the traditional method, a slightly higher oxidization followed by a low firing.  It is this process that produces the balance of elegant aromatics and full-bodied mouth feel.  My experience with Master Chen certainly opened my eyes to the great teas of Taiwan.

In my travels between China and Taiwan I have discovered one element that runs through the traditions: brewing tea is an art form, active meditation, and personal expression, an international beverage in this modern day that links to the traditions of the past.

About David Wong and Tillerman Tea

David Wong is the Director of Tea Culture and Education for the Tillerman Tea Company based in the Oxbow Public Market, Napa.  He leads the educational Tea Talks and the daily tastings at the tea bar.  For more information about Tillerman Tea, please visit our website at www.tillermantea.com or contact us at This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it or call (707)-265-0200.