Project Foodie - From the Fishmonger

Happy as a clam - the quahog

Also called the quahog, the hard clam (Mercenaria mercenaria ) is usually about 4 inches wide with a thick shell that is grayish white on the outside and white on the inside with a purple patch near the rear. Its shells originally had a sacred significance to the Indians; later the shells were used for wampum (money).

The hard clam lives in sandy-bottomed bays and coves, and along beaches from Canada to Texas; however, they are found only sporadically north of Cape Cod. Recreational fishermen gather the clams with rakes and hoes, or simply by probing the bottom with their feet. At low tide, experienced gatherers can spot siphon holes on the bottom where quahogs are actively feeding.

This species supports a substantial recreational and commercial fishery, including aquaculture of clams. There is a minimum legal catching size that varies from state to state. The smallest clams are called "little necks", next are the "cherrystones", and the largest is called a "chowder". In some markets, you may also find "top necks" which fall between the size of little necks and cherrystones. In addition, you may find markets where top necks fall between cherrystones and chowders.

The price of the clam is determined by its size - the smaller the clam, the more expensive it will be. The reason for this pricing strategy is that the smaller the clam, the more tender and sweet it will be, and thus, the more desirable. All of this depends, of course, on how you plan to prepare your clams.

All clams have a sweet, light flavor, but this is more evident in the smaller, more tender little necks. Steamed until they pop completely open, little necks have almost a buttery flavor. Larger clams don't seem as sweet because they are chewier. The chowder clams, which are the least expensive, need to be chopped and cooked to help tenderize them; hence, as the name implies, they are best for clam chowder.

Since the little necks are the most tender they can be steamed with garlic and olive oil or a little wine for a delicious dish. Steamed little necks complement mussels very nicely; the two can be steamed together. Preparation is easy - you can simply use your microwave to steam oysters, clams, and mussels. No water is necessary. Place them in a shallow dish with the hinge toward the outside cover, vent, and "microsteam" on HIGH for 6-8 minutes.

Cherrystones are typically used for baked clam appetizers such as clams casino. Chowder size are best if they are cut up or chopped and cooked. Smaller chowder clams may be cut into strips and breaded. Also, chopped clams are excellent for making a white sauce to top your favorite pasta.

As you can see, the key to a great meal with clams is ensuring you use the right sized clam for the type of dish you are preparing. Once you've done that, the clam will complement and enhance your meal and make you - happy as a clam!

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Getting the kids into fish...

Save Recipe: Oven-Fried Seafood Sticks

School's out and the kids are home. You have a few camps and a vacation planned, but they still seem to have some time on their hands. Well, why not get them to work making dinner or a super lunch for themselves? When I was growing up, our family had fish sticks for dinner on many a Friday night. These were usually the store-bought frozen kind. Mom would also, on occasion, bread and deep fry cod or flounder fillets defrosted from one pound packages of fish. Someone would also make a sauce for the fish sticks - just a quick combo of mayonnaise and ketchup (we called it glop) that was mostly mayo and light pink in color after adding the ketchup. We loved them.

These days, as a seafood consumer educator, I have often been asked for kid friendly recipes. Here is a recipe for making what I call fish sticks from scratch. This recipe does not require any deep frying or lots of oil. A light spray of oil on a non-stick pan is all you need. You can even use a simple shake and bake type routine. First, coat all the fish sticks in the egg white mixture. Next, put the crumb mixture in a plastic bag that you can easily keep closed, add the egg coated fish and shake. Lift the breaded fish out with tongs, shake off the excess coating and place on your cookie sheet. You can choose from a variety of fish filets including tilapia, catfish, grouper, cod, hake, pollock, or flounder. Or if there is a place to catch your own - I bet the kids would be excited about being able to catch - cook - and then eat their bounty.

Oven-Fried Seafood Sticks

Serves 4

1-1/4 pounds fish fillets
1 egg white
1 tablespoon prepared mustard (optional)
1 tablespoon water
1/2 cup bread crumbs
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper
2 ounces sharp cheddar cheese (optional)

Cut fish fillets into equal sticks. In a shallow bowl, whisk together egg white, prepared mustard, and water with a fork until thoroughly blended.

In another shallow bowl, mix together bread crumbs, dry mustard, and pepper.

Coat a baking sheet with vegetable cooking spray. Dip fish sticks into egg white/mustard mixture and coat on all sides, then dredge in seasoned bread crumbs, coating evenly. Place on prepared baking sheet and bake in a 450 F oven for 6 minutes. Turn sticks over and continue baking for 4 minutes.

Remove sticks to a serving platter. Quickly sprinkle cheddar over tops of fish sticks and serve immediately, with lemon wedge, if desired.

*Choose fish fillets such as tilapia, catfish, grouper, cod, hake, pollock, or flounder.

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Grill Up Your Summer

Can't decide what to cook for dinner tonight? How about hitting the backyard for a good 'ol summer barbeque? You've grabbed the kids and the neighbors, but now that one question consumes your mind… what to cook? To the beginner, grilling may seem a little scary, but it's not as difficult as you might think.

Fish can be the most succulent and rewarding of all grilled products. Fish is ideal for grilling, especially salmon, swordfish, halibut, mahi-mahi and peeled and deveined shrimp, just to name a few. Cooking on the grill is fast, surprisingly easy, and, best of all, doesn't make a mess in the kitchen. In addition, because there is limited oil involved, each fish will serve up a low dose of calories.

To get the desired effect, the easiest way to grill fish is to do the following:

1. First choose the fish. Look for a fish that is firm, such as salmon, swordfish, halibut, mahi-mahi and peeled and deveined shrimp.

2. Rather than spraying cooking oil on the grill, try spraying the oil only on the fish. It's a little known trick that will prevent your fish from sticking.

3. Season your cut with your favorite seasonings. Put the fish on the grill with the seasoned side down then season the other side.

4. As the fish is cooking you will notice the color on the side of the fish change from the bottom to the top. When the color changes about a third of the way up, flip the fish. Flip the fish only once, this will prevent the fish from falling apart.

5. And the ever bearing question… is it done? An easy way to tell is by sticking a fork in the middle. If the fork goes in easily and with no resistance, take it off the grill and your good to go. If you choose, just squeeze a little bit of lemon onto to the fish to enhance the flavor.

Grilled fish is a great way to start the summer and is sure to be a hit with friends and family.

About the Fishmonger

Race Street Foods has been providing quality products since 1947. While they began as a small family run business, Race Street Foods has become a premier wholesale distributor of seafood, poultry, beef and pork products within the San Francisco Bay Area. Race Street Foods also has a retail store, Race Street Fish & Poultry, which has been "The Place" to buy seafood and poultry in San Jose, CA for more than fifty years. The retail store provides a vast array of fish and poultry combined with an outstanding in-house restaurant. Stop by and check out this month's featured fish or try one of their wonderful cooked meals.

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Fresh vs. Frozen Seafood

Fresh fish is not only available but due to significant advances in commercial freezing, consumers now have a variety of high-quality products to choose from in the freezer case. "Fresh frozen" is a seafood labeling that means the fish was frozen immediately after harvesting at the peak of freshness. In fact, you'll find the quality of "fresh frozen" seafood as good as, and sometimes better, than "fresh" (i.e. never frozen).

When shopping for frozen seafood remember to select packages that are frozen solid with little or no visible ice crystals, no freezer burn (dry patches) or discoloration. The same guidelines apply for frozen prepared seafood, such as crab cakes, breaded shrimp, or fish sticks. Do not allow the package to defrost during transportation. Today "frozen" does not have a bad connotation. Frozen seafood can be superior in quality to fresh seafood, so base your purchase on product quality.

It is not always necessary to thaw seafood before cooking, depending on how it will be prepared. If thawing is not necessary, simply double the cooking time. But if your recipe calls for coating, rolling, or stuffing, or if the fish is in a block, you will need to defrost it to facilitate handling. Plan ahead; defrost the fish overnight in the refrigerator. This is the best way to thaw fish to minimize loss of moisture. A one-pound package will defrost within 24 hours.

Never defrost seafood at room temperature or with hot or warm water. Bacteria on the surface will begin to multiply and cause spoilage. If you forget to take your seafood out of the freezer ahead of time, place it in the sink under cold, running water. A one-pound package will defrost in approximately one hour. Follow the manufacturer's thawing guidelines if provided.

You may also use your microwave oven to partially thaw your fish. Use the lowest defrost setting, which is usually 30% power and follow the manufacturer's instructions for time based on amount of fish. The fish should feel cool, pliable, and slightly icy. Be careful not to overheat it and begin the cooking process. Foods defrosted in the microwave oven should be cooked immediately after thawing.

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An Introduction to Scallops

Save Recipe: Pan-Seared Scallops with Tomatoes and Pesto

Scallops are bivalve mollusks with scallop-edged, fan-shaped shells. The adductor muscle is the part of the scallop we eat here in the U.S. In Europe, the entire scallop is eaten. The adductor muscle is more developed in the scallop than in oysters and clams because scallops are active swimmers. They glide freely through the water and over the sea floor by snapping their shells together.

Scallops are primarily harvested by dredging and are shucked soon after capture. They cannot hold their shells closed; therefore, once they are out of the water, they lose moisture quickly and die. Consequently, they're shucked on board the ships, placed in containers, and refrigerated or frozen.

Culinary Description

The sea scallop (Plactopecten magellanicus) is the largest of the scallops. You usually get approximately 20-40 in one pound. They can be bought fresh or frozen. Scallops freeze well, so if they are on sale or you buy too many, freeze them for later use. The raw meats are creamy white in color and sometimes slightly orange due to the food (algae) they consume. Scallops have a distinct, sweet odor when they are fresh.

There are many ways to prepare scallops. Always take care not to overcook them; they toughen easily. As soon as they lose their translucence and turn opaque, they are done, Sea scallops may be broiled, kabobed, stir-fried, baked, or microwaved. There are many recipes for scallops. In fact sea scallops are perfect for skewering and cooking quickly on the grill. Baste with your favorite seafood grilling sauce and cook until they are plump or firm up and are opaque throughout.

The bay scallop (Argopecten irradians) resides in bays and estuaries from New England to the Gulf of Mexico. Its muscle reaches about one-half inch in diameter. You usually find about 50-90 in one pound. You need to be especially careful when cooking bay scallops. Because of their size, they tend to overcook very easily and will become tough. They are sweet and tender yet firm when cooked properly. Bay scallops may be baked, sauteed, stir-fried, or microwaved. If you need cooked scallops for a seafood salad, simply wash and dry one pound, then wrap them deli- sandwich style in a microwaveable paper towel, and microwave on HIGH for 3 minutes. You will have perfectly cooked scallops. Or melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a microwaveable dish, add 1 tablespoon of lime juice and half a teaspoon of basil, mix in a pound of scallops, cover turning back a corner if you use plastic wrap and microwave on HIGH for 3 minutes. Or try them pan-seared with some tomatoes and pesto using the recipe below.

Pan-Seared Scallops with Tomatoes and Pesto

Serves 4

1 1/2 pounds sea scallops
Olive oil
1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 cups prepared bruschetta
3 tablespoons prepared pesto
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

Pat scallops dry with paper towels. Heat a large heavy skillet with 1 tablespoon olive oil. When oil just starts to smoke, add scallops in a single layer to pan; cook 2 minutes on each side or until golden brown. Remove scallops from pan; keep warm.

Reduce heat to medium. Add lemon zest and juice to pan and scrape up any browned bits. Add bruschetta, tossing to coat and heat through.

Spoon about 2 teaspoons pesto on each of 4 plates. Arrange one-quarter of scallops and about 1/2 cup tomato mixture on each plate. Sprinkle with basil.

About the Fishmonger

Doris Hicks, Seafood Technology Specialist, This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it

As seafood specialist, for the University of Delaware Sea Grant Marine Advisory Service , Hicks works with both the seafood industry and consumers to develop educational programs about the proper way to handle, store, and prepare finfish and shellfish. In addition to these outreach efforts, Hicks serves as a seafood safety instructor, providing training programs to seafood processors throughout the region. She also has conducted research with University of Delaware colleagues to explore new technologies for pasteurizing seafood. Hicks received her bachelor's degree in food science from Rutgers University and her master's degree in food science and human nutrition from the University of Delaware.

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Mahi-Mahi great for grilling

Mahi-mahi (Coryphaena hippurus) is a Hawaiian word that means "strong-strong" for dolphin fish. This species is found in tropical and subtropical waters throughout the world. Generally, smaller dolphin fish range from 2-5 pounds, while 40-50 pound fish are not uncommon. Dolphin fish have a short life span of three or four years.

Dolphin fish are not to be confused with porpoises, which at times are also called dolphin. Dolphin fish (mahi-mahi) are cold-blooded members of the fish family, while porpoises are mammals and are protected by law. The mahi-mahi is a beautiful fish also known as "dorado". The fish has green and gold flanks that light up with a rainbow of iridescent colors that fade with time. Many retailers will display whole mahi-mahi because they are so striking and to help dispel the myth that they are related to Flipper.

Mahi mahi are sought after by commercial fishermen off the Pacific Coast of Latin America, from Peru to Costa Rica; the Ecuadorians have a growing fishery. Recreational anglers also catch mahi-mahi offshore in the Atlantic Ocean from New Jersey to North Carolina and farther south.

Culinary Description

Mahi-mahi is an exceptionally versatile fish, having firm, white meat and a delicate flavor. Broiled, poached, baked, sautéed, grilled, or pan-fried, mahi-mahi delivers a truly sensational taste. As warmer weather approaches, you might think about grilling Mahi. It is firm enough for grilling, and you should be sure to lightly oil the grill. A quick and simple recipe is to marinate for 15 minutes in your favorite bottled oil/vinegar and herb dressing (1 cup dressing per pound of fish). Or you can lightly coat the fillet with one tablespoon of a wet jerk seasoning or rub to which you have added one tablespoon of olive oil and marinate only 15 minutes. Place mahi-mahi prepared by either recipe on a hot grill for 8-10 minutes turning once. Mahi-mahi is one of those fish that is wonderful just about any way you can think to prepare it -- from the simple to the complex, minimal ingredients to multiple ingredients, subtle to strong flavors.

About the Fishmonger

Doris Hicks, Seafood Technology Specialist, This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it

As seafood specialist, for the University of Delaware Sea Grant Marine Advisory Service , Hicks works with both the seafood industry and consumers to develop educational programs about the proper way to handle, store, and prepare finfish and shellfish. In addition to these outreach efforts, Hicks serves as a seafood safety instructor, providing training programs to seafood processors throughout the region. She also has conducted research with University of Delaware colleagues to explore new technologies for pasteurizing seafood. Hicks received her bachelor's degree in food science from Rutgers University and her master's degree in food science and human nutrition from the University of Delaware.

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Soft-Shell Crab

Save Recipe: Soft-Shell Crab-wich with Spring Aioli, Parsley, and Crispy Fried Shallots

From the east coast of the United States, to the fresh waters of Japan, soft-shell crabs prove to be a modern-day delicacy for any seafood lover. Measuring anywhere from 3 ½ to 5 ½ inches, these crustaceans house some of the most precious ocean meat. Quite literally, soft shell crabs, also called blue crabs, are found in their molted state in which the critters are shedding their outer layer. This process of "molting", or shedding, takes place an average of 27 times throughout a crab's lifetime, each repetition taking approximately 3 hours. Beginning in May, these "peelers" are harvested at the exact time in which their molting cycle is progressing; this is what gives blue crabs their uniquely soft shells. The crabs are contained in the middle of their molting stage, just before they loose their entire shells. From the boat, they are kept in holding tanks where they are observed until the cycle ceases.

Soft-shell crab can be found at most seafood markets ranging from frozen, fresh, or live. Having a sweet yet mildly tender flavor, these crustaceans can be cooked in a variety of techniques. Soft-shell crab can be eaten almost anywhere, with anything. Served as either a main dish or an appetizer, these blue crabs live up to their standards of high quality seafood (If offered as the main course, it is recommended 2-3 crabs per person). Served in a variety of ways, soft shell crabs are often fried with breading or sautéed with lemon and butter throughout the United States. In New Orleans, the peelers are even transformed into the famous "poor boy", soft shell crab with lettuce and tomato nestled inside a simple French bread roll.

Here's a tasty soft-shell crab-wich we created just for Project Foodie!

Soft-Shell Crab-wich with Spring Aioli, Parsley, and Crispy Fried Shallots

Spring Aioli

2 cloves garlic, finely diced and smashed into a paste
1/3 cup mayonnaise
½ tsp ground mustard
¼ tsp ground cayenne pepper
1 Tbl chives, finely chopped
½ tsp red pepper flakes
½ tsp lemon juice
½ tsp olive oil

Combine all ingredients and blend thoroughly. Chill.

Crispy Fried Shallots

3 shallots, sliced thinly
1 cup vegetable oil for frying

Heat olive oil in a sauce pan. Fry shallots in small batches, 2-3 minutes, until just beginning to turn golden. Drain on paper towels. Can be eaten room temperature.

Fried Soft-Shell Crabs

4 whole soft shelled crabs
½ cup flour
½ tsp salt
½ tsp garlic powder
½ tsp black pepper, freshly ground
4 Tbl olive oil

Mix flour through pepper. Dip each crab into flour mixture.

Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. Cook crabs 3 minutes on each side. Sit on paper towels to drain excess fat.

Crab-wich

Fried Soft-shell Crabs
Spring Aioli
2 Onion rolls
Parsley
Crispy Fried Shallots

Toast Onion roll. Place bed of Parsley on bottom of roll. Place two fried soft-shell crabs on top of parsley. Top with Crispy Fried Shallots. Spread generous portion of Spring Aioli on top half of roll.

Serves 2.

About the Fishmonger

Race Street Foods has been providing quality products since 1947. While they began as a small family run business, Race Street Foods has become a premier wholesale distributor of seafood, poultry, beef and pork products within the San Francisco Bay Area. Race Street Foods also has a retail store, Race Street Fish & Poultry , which has been "The Place" to buy seafood and poultry in San Jose, CA for more than fifty years. The retail store provides a vast array of fish and poultry combined with an outstanding in-house restaurant. Stop by and check out this month's featured fish or try one of their wonderful cooked meals.

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