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 Apples are some of the most adaptable fruits in nature and in the kitchen. Throughout their lengthy history, the apple has reinvented itself several times over, often overcoming the threat of extinction. Today, heirloom apples are experiencing a renaissance as consumers discover that there's more to an apple than dull uniformity and one-dimensional sweetness. And like all things in life, it's the balance of characteristics or flavors that makes an item desirable or delicious. Michael Pollan's non-fiction book, The Botany of Desire, and recently released documentary profiles the apple and its centuries-old journey from the remote and mountainous regions of central Asia to the hard cider rage of the late 18th and early 19th century to the monoculture decline of the 20th century to its current resurgence as a fruit to foster and save from disappearing altogether. This past fall, Slow Food USA launched a nationwide scavenger hunt and campaign to save endangered apple varieties. The organization, along with RAFT (Renewing America's Food Traditions), which is managed by Slow Food USA, asked consumers and community members to discover, collect cuttings, graft, and educate their local community on the importance of saving the heirloom apple. So what's all the fuss about a tart, easily bruised, misshaped apple? Well, it goes back to our desire to crave something perfect like the apple, yet still be drawn to the romance of a fruit being unique and unusual. Now that we have grown tired of the half dozen perfected varieties of apples that saturated the market for the last thirty years, we're discovering and celebrating the complexities of an heirloom apple and appreciating their journey. Apples with names like ‘Ashmead's Kernal', ‘Cox Orange Pippin', and ‘Orleans Reinette' speak to their relevance in American history. A delicious heirloom apple has retained its intricacies over the years and provides flavor nuances such as musk, butterscotch, lemon, and spice that conventional and over-bred apples just can't match. Yes, there is a gamble when selecting an heirloom. It might be overripe, soft in spots, have tough skin, or be overly tart, but perfection usually ends up being overrated anyway. Very few heirlooms have made it into mainstream markets. Most are discovered at farmers' markets and independent grocers. Some heirlooms to look for include: Ashmead's Kernal: an old English variety with russetted skin and an intense sweet-tart flavor. It's a good storage apple that works well in all cooked desserts. Baldwin: A variety from Massachusetts, dating back to 1750. It's got spicy flavors with thick skin and yellow flesh. Use it in pie or cider. Laxton's Fortune: A cross between ‘Cox's Orange Pippin' and ‘Wealthy'. It's an early 20th century variety with crisp and juicy flesh. Pink Pearl: A novel looking variety with pink flesh and tart flavor, and is great for cooking. Esopus Spitzenburg: A favorite of Thomas Jefferson and a parent of the ‘Johnathan'. Its skin is red-orange and has fragrant crisp-sweet flesh. Winter Banana: A large specimen with waxy yellow and red-blushed skin and musky sweet flavor that works cooked and uncooked in recipes. When cooking with heirlooms, consider the weight and texture before incorporating in recipes. Apples that feel lightweight won't hold their shape when cooked and should be used raw in recipes. Overly tart apples work great in recipes that call for a lot of sugar or other sweet flavoring. Sweet-tasting apples work well in savory dishes. And firm-fleshed apples are going to work in both raw and cooked recipes. These are more cooking guidelines, not flavor guidelines. If you find an heirloom variety that you love, then have fun experimenting with them in the following recipes. Just make sure that the heirloom's texture matches the recipe's suggested apple texture. This month's selection of recipes is geared towards the holidays. Almost all of them could be served as part of a holiday meal. Check out Michael Pollan's book or learn about heritage apples from Slow Food USA and educate guests while they enjoy one of these dishes. Salads
- Arugula Salad with Manchego, Apples, and Caramelized Walnuts could easily be deconstructed and turned into a first course cheese plate. Save the walnut recipe and make them as holiday gifts.
| |   | Arugula Salad with Manchego, Apples, and Caramelized Walnuts | | Ingredients: finding ingredients... | My Rating: | | More Actions: | | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Red and Napa Cabbage Salad with Braeburn Apples and Spiced Pecans combines healthy cabbage and apples in a crunchy flavorful salad.
| | | | Red and Napa Cabbage Salad with Braeburn Apples and Spiced Pecans | |  | Ingredients: finding ingredients... | My Rating: | | More Actions: | | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Smoked Trout Salad with Apples and Pecans is a bit time consuming since it requires smoking the trout. If short on time, purchased smoked trout or other white fish at your local deli.
| | | | Smoked Trout Salad with Apples and Pecans | | Ingredients: finding ingredients... | My Rating: | | More Actions: | | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Soups and Sides - Whole-Grain Stuffing with Apples, Sausage and Pecans is a great holiday recipe that's fairly simple and bound to be a favorite.
| | | | Whole-Grain Stuffing With Apples, Sausage And Pecans | |  | Ingredients: finding ingredients... | My Rating: | | More Actions: | | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Root Vegetable Pan Roast with Chestnuts and Apples is a great vegetarian dish with meaty chestnuts taking the place of a protein.
| | | | Root Vegetable Pan Roast with Chestnuts and Apples | | Ingredients: finding ingredients... | My Rating: | | More Actions: | | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Roast Butternut Squash Soup with Apples and Garam Masala is deceptively rich with very little fat.{pfRecipe full}
Main Course Meals
- Lamb Curry with Apples uses an inexpensive cut of lamb with exotic flavors and is perfect as a comforting winter meal.
| | | | Lamb Curry with Apples | | Ingredients: finding ingredients... | My Rating: | | More Actions: | | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Chicken Normande with Mashed Apples and Potatoes is a make-ahead casserole that's perfect for a potluck.
| | | | Chicken Normande with Mashed Apples and Potatoes | |  | Ingredients: finding ingredients... | My Rating: | | More Actions: | | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Bacon-Wrapped Pork Loin with Roasted Apples is reminiscent of applewood-smoked bacon since it combines those two ingredients in this special-occasion dish.
| | | | Bacon-Wrapped Pork Loin With Roasted Apples | | Ingredients: finding ingredients... | My Rating: | | More Actions: | | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Apple-Sage Glazed Grilled Whole Turkey with Grilled Apples is great for those that like to grill year round.
| | | | Apple-Sage Glazed Grilled Whole Turkey With Grilled Apples | | Ingredients: finding ingredients... | My Rating: | | More Actions: | | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Molasses-Balsamic Pork Kabobs with Green Apples and Peppers is a great way to serve apples in a savory grilled dish.
| | | | Molasses-Balsamic Pork Kabobs With Green Apples And Peppers | | Ingredients: finding ingredients... | My Rating: | | More Actions: | | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Baked
- Baked Apples Stuffed with Dried Fruit and Pecans can be prepared hours before company arrives and baked while enjoying dinner.
| | | | Baked Apples Stuffed With Dried Fruit And Pecans | |  | Ingredients: finding ingredients... | My Rating: | | More Actions: | | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Baked Apples with Cranberry Molasses Bread Pudding is a great recipe for using up extra bread.
| | | | Baked Apples With Cranberry Molasses Bread Pudding | |  | Ingredients: finding ingredients... | My Rating: | | More Actions: | | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Baked Apples with Mexican Chocolate combines two unexpected ingredients in this Martha Stewart recipe.
| | | | Baked Apples with Mexican Chocolate | |  | Ingredients: finding ingredients... | My Rating: | | More Actions: | | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Desserts
- Autumn Trifle with Roasted Apples, Pears, and Pumpkin-Caramel Sauce is time consuming but nevertheless a showstopper for a special occasion.
| | | | Autumn Trifle with Roasted Apples, Pears, and Pumpkin-Caramel Sauce | |  | Ingredients: finding ingredients... | My Rating: | | More Actions: | | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Buckwheat Crepes with Sauteed Apples and Gruyere Cheese is classic northern France cooking with hearty buckwheat. Though not billed as a dessert, use it in place of an after-dinner cheese course.
| | | | Buckwheat Crepes with Sautéed Apples and Gruyère Cheese (Things Cooks Love by Sur La Table and Marie Simmons, 2008) | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Crostata with Apples, Walnuts and Gorgonzola also isn't a typical dessert, but is satisfying as an after-dinner ending.
| | | | Crostata With Apples, Walnuts And Gorgonzola | | Ingredients: finding ingredients... | My Rating: | | More Actions: | | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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articles 
) The growers who sell at farmers' markets are a veritable fount of knowledge. Don't be shy--ask them which varieties they prefer for their own cooking; I've gotten some of my best tips this way.
On November 7, 2009, 3:45 pm spm said:
Could easily be deconstructed and turned into a first course cheese plate. Save the walnut recipe and make them as holiday gifts.