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From the Chef
Explore the interests and food of Chefs as they write about what interests them most!

Cooking for Kids II: Toddler Café Print E-mail

A few weeks ago I wrote about my desire to find new and innovative ways to get our more picky eaters to eat foods that are a little better for them without resorting to extremes.  Armed with a box full of kids cookbooks I set out to test things out on my young panel to see if there are any tell tale techniques out there that would get my daughter (Jaymi 2 ½) to eat more protein and her cousin (Douglas, 6) to eat more green vegetables.  

ImageThe book I used on these two taste testers was “Toddler Café” by Jennifer Carden (Chronicle Books, 2008).  What I loved about this 50 recipe book is Jennifer’s old school approach to feeding kids and getting them involved in the cooking process.  The recipes are straightforward and they are things that the whole family can enjoy. Like me Ms. Carden doesn’t always buy into having to make two or three different meals to satisfy the eaters in your family.  I mean seriously who has time for that.  Isn’t that one of the reasons why we yearn for the day when our babies can eat table food?  No more jars of this or bottles of that or time spent pureeing up your own goodies which is an awesome thing to do if you can and something we’ll talk about in a later article, but let’s be honest, it’s a great day when you don’t have to do it anymore. 

First we’ll start with Jaymi, my kid, child of one parent who is a foodie and the other parent who thinks he’s a foodie (ha ha).  Jaymi is probably a parent’s dream in some respects because she eats most vegetables except for corn, carrots, and potatoes.  She also doesn’t really care for sweets, no cakes and pies for her, its mainly fresh fruit, ice cream, and the occasional chocolate chip cookie.  The problem?  She doesn’t eat a lot of protein.  She likes eggs, American cheese slices (deli brand not Kraft), but no fish, meat or beans other than a beef hot dog (I’m in a voluntary state of denial about how terrible they are for our kids) or chicken nuggets.  All of the recipes featured in the protein chapter of Toddler Café were absolute winners but the two that Jaymi really loved were the “Lord of the Apple Rings” and the “A-maize-ing egg scramble”. 

“Lord of the Apple Rings” had many of the flavors that Jaymi already loves, apples & spinach but this time chopped up and combined with Chicken apple sausage and shaped into finger friendly meatballs. I can’t remember the last time I’d seen her that excited at the dinner table! Even better I didn’t feel like I was deceiving her, I simply enhanced the flavor by combining it with things that she is familiar with.  The added spinach and fresh apple didn’t change the flavor of the sausage one bit, if anything it brought the flavor out and it also created a bit of a different texture, which I often think is another one of the issues that Jaymi has with meat.  My husband and I also happily dined on these little meat sensations with her, accompanied with some buttery orzo pasta. 

The “A-maize-ing egg scramble” was something I tried out one Saturday morning as a substitute to the pancakes her father usually makes for her.  One thing I forgot to mention about Jaymi is that she loves “chips” and “chip-like” snacks.  Chips, pretzels, cheese puffs (I blame my mother who I believe single handedly keeps Lays in business with the amount of chips she buys).  When I saw that this recipe combining scrambled eggs with crushed tortilla chips I knew it was going to be a winner.  The dish combines two scrambled eggs with crushed tortilla ships and shredded cheddar cheese. The fact that Jaymi ate another cheese besides American nearly brought tears to my eyes (just imagine how I’ll be when she finally tries goat cheese!).  It was quick, simple, a combination I would have never thought of and pretty darn good.  Huevos Rancheros for the younger set.  Now that I think about it, a little added tomato sauce would have been a nice touch too.  I could go on and on about the other great protein recipes that continued to wow my youngster but I have to move on to my next taster. 

Another one of the great things about “Toddler Café” is that even though it is a cookbook that targets kids from ages 2-5 it is still a winner for the older set.  In the book the author covers teaching children how to clean up after themselves when preparing meals and other ways your kids can assist you in the kitchen.  Plus, the recipes are easy enough for that older child to make some of them on their own.  Douglas is the total opposite of Jaymi; he’s a real meat and potatoes man who won’t touch his vegetables.  Douglas’s mother is a smoking hot Latina who cooks traditional Latin American cuisine, lots of pork, rice, potatoes, and beans, no green veggies or fresh fruits. I knew I’d have my work cut out for me.  The first recipe I made for him was something called “let us roll-up”.  A combination of seasoned ground beef with a little chopped broccoli and carrots served on romaine lettuce leaves and garnished with chopped peanuts.  At first he took one look at it and pushed his plate aside.  Even a stern talking to by his police officer father wasn’t enough to sway him.  But eventually I won him over by promising him a trip to the zoo.  Initially, he just ate the ground beef and I was happy with that since it had carrots and broccoli mixed in, but he did end up nibbling on a piece of lettuce after I told him that was what bunny rabbits eat to make them strong.  I also had his mother season the ground beef with flavors that were familiar to him, garlic powder, spicy peppers, etc again to enhance the flavor of the unfamiliar with the familiar.  I found out that his mother made the dish a second time and this time he ate everything, so did his 12 year old sister and 14 year old brother. 

The other recipe that converted Douglas into a now occasional vegetable eater was the “Swamp Soup”. A six year old boy’s dream - something that looks like slime: vegetable broth, onion, garlic, zucchini, and avocado. At first he did look at his mother and I like we were crazy but we waited patiently and finally he took one piece of a toasted baguette and dipped it into the soup, then another, and after what felt like an eternity he finished the whole bowl and ran away from the dinner table at lightening speed.  His mother swears that he only ate those things because his favorite big cousin (me) asked him too.  But the good news is that now he will at least try eating vegetables and his older siblings are following suit.  

I’ve got to say I didn’t think I’d have such good luck my first time out with my taste testers, especially Douglas, but I truly believe that if you arm yourself with the right recipes and some patience, you’ll be pleasantly surprised at the results.  If all else fails you could go really old school on them “You don’t leave the dinner table until you clean your plate”. How many of you remember that?  Sometimes I think we still need a little old school with these new school kids.  Next article I’m going to check in on my buddy Jake, age 11, who is learning how to cook for himself and see how he made out with some of the items I gave him. 

About Chef Heather

Chef Heather (aka Foodie Princess) is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education in New York City (formerly Peter Kumps New York Cooking School). She has worked for Gourmet Magazine, TV Personality Katie Brown, and the New York based Indian-fusion restaurant Tabla. Chef Foodie Princess resides in New Jersey with her husband and daughter and is in the process of launching her own Personal Chef Service "The Princess & The Pea".

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Zafiris’ World: Recipe for Zucchini and Eggs Print E-mail

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ImageZafiris is a man of his island, his village and his times.  Except for a brief, much remembered, stint in the Greek Army, he’s spent his entire life in the village.

The German Army occupied the island during World War II and closed the schools, thus ending Zafiris’ formal education.  He was in fourth grade.  Zafiris’ lack of book learning never held him back; he is a smart, successful farmer and village leader.

A proud self-made man, Zafiris weaves his life into stories.  For the last few years, he’s been semi-retired, which gives him more time to share stories with all who’ll listen. 

Like many Greek men, Zafiris holds strong opinions about pretty much everything.  His opinions are usually framed by stories that demonstrate how and why his opinion is the only one a reasonable, enlightened person could hold.

If you are bold enough to ask “why” something should be done his way, Zafiris typically responds it’s because his opinions and his directions are “correct.”  No further explanation is necessary or possible.

ImageDespite his semi-retirement, Zafiris’ gardens, pastures, fields and vineyards still supply much of what he and his wife, children, and grandchildren eat every day.  He does this to protect his family’s health; Zafiris explains that store-bought food has limited nutrients when compared to what he grows, which is always picked at its peak of freshness.

Froso, Zafiris’ wife, is a talented cook from whom I have learned much.  Since their marriage, Froso has prepared the vast majority of Zafiris’ meals.  Whether she cooks for the two of them, their large extended family, or their frequent drop-in visitors, Froso consistently serves wonderful food.

Zafiris rarely cooks and enjoys telling funny stories of his abysmal kitchen failures. Of course, he also holds quite definite opinions about the “correct” way to cook pretty much everything.

ImageAlthough his practical kitchen talents are limited, Zafiris makes one dish very well: Zucchini and Eggs.  If you complement Zafiris on his Zucchini and Eggs, he’ll patiently explain the key to success is fresh eggs. He uses eggs from Froso’s backyard chicken coop or, when he can find them, from hidden nests in his fields, where Zafiris lets chickens run wild.  

Zafiris is right about the fresh eggs, as he is about many things.  The flavor of farm-fresh eggs is incomparable, and I use them whenever I can find them.  Anyone who hasn’t tried farm eggs should seek them out; they’re a revelation about eggs’ depths of flavor.  Farmers’ markets and natural food stores are good places to look for fresh farm eggs.

Even if you can’t find farm eggs, Zucchini and Eggs is wonderful fare.  Zafiris’ recipe makes a quick, easy, and delicious meal, especially when you follow Zafiris’ lead and top it with a healthy squeeze of fresh lemon juice.

Zucchini and Eggs (Κολοκυθάκια με Αυγά)

Serves 2 as a main course or 4 as part of an appetizer spread

  • 2 medium zucchini (1 pound)
  • 3 Tbsp. olive oil
  • Salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 cup diced yellow onion, 1/4” dice
  • 4 eggs
  • Lemon wedges

Cut the zucchini in 1/4” slices.  Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Heat the oil in a skillet and spread out half the zucchini in a single layer in the pan. Cook, without disturbing, until the zucchini is browned on the bottom; turn the zucchini over and brown on the second side.  Remove to paper towels to absorb excess oil.  Repeat with the remaining zucchini.

In the same pan, adding olive oil if necessary, sauté the onions, lightly seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper, until they soften and begin to turn golden. Add the cooked zucchini and gently mix the zucchini and onion.  Spread the vegetables out evenly over the bottom of the skillet.

Whisk together the eggs, and pour evenly over the zucchini.  Sprinkle with a little salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Cover, turn down the burner, and cook over low heat until the eggs are set.  Slide the Zucchini and Eggs onto a serving platter, cut into wedges, garnish with lemon wedges, and serve immediately.

Zafiris serves Zucchini and Eggs with slices of feta cheese, olives, bread, and a glass or two of ouzo.

About Laurie Helen Constantino

ImageLaurie Helen Constantino and her husband have homes in Anchorage, Alaska, and on a rural Greek island. In both kitchens, the foods of the Mediterranean play a starring role. She writes about Greek and Mediterranean cooking for her blog, Mediterranean Cooking in Alaska. In 2007, her first cookbook "Tastes Like Home: Mediterranean Cooking in Alaska" was published.

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Cooking for Kids Print E-mail

ImageI remember planning my wedding and then a year later preparing for the birth of my daughter and thinking that weddings and babies are two of the biggest money making ventures in this country, with weight loss coming in a close third.  People want to have the most beautiful wedding; they want the best for the children and for their children to be the best; and who doesn’t want to lose a little weight.  But, a more recent discovery of mine is how difficult it has become to feed our kids; we are a country that now has some of the pickiest eaters in the world.  Having my own toddler who has her picky moments I can sympathize with many parents about the trials of getting kids to want something other than Chicken nuggets and French fries. 

When it comes to feeding our kids, especially kids of Foodies, the list of advice is endless. There are now countless books and techniques designed to get our kids to love the foods that we love without having to fight them on it.  But what techniques really work? A co-worker of mine whose only child is now 25 said that it’s the parents that are creating these picky eaters.  I have to wonder if there is some truth to that.  Growing up I don’t remember there being too much discussion or a choice about what was for dinner, I just simply ate what I was given.  I actually remember being most picky when I was a teenager (that would be because my mom was constantly dieting and back then low calorie meals were pretty low on flavor as well). Are we giving our kids too many choices? Are we not being firm enough with them? 

Unfortunately, I don’t think there is one answer to these questions because, quite simply, every child is different. As the parent you have to find ways to see what works for your child and, for some reason, when it comes to feeding kids, toddlers especially, there is a bit of trade off involved.  For example my 2½ year old loves green vegetables, but doesn’t like carrots, corn, or potatoes (other than a French fry) and she’s not a big meat eater either.  I don’t allow myself to get hung up on the fact that she doesn’t like corn on the cob or mashed potatoes. Instead, I tend to look at the positive side of things, look at the vitamins and nutrients that she is getting (she eats spinach for God sake) and see what’s missing in her diet that she really needs. For me, the biggest thing she’s missing is protein so I do make that my mission to try and find ways to get more protein in her.

What I plan to do in this series of articles is do some of the leg work for you, see what’s out there in terms of recipes, techniques, and general advice on cooking for kids.  I’ll let you in on the information that in my opinion is doable or may even work in most households.  I have a panel of kid testers that I will use for various recipes: Jaymi Lee (2½), Amaya (6), Douglas (5), and Jake (11). Hopefully, when I’m done some of you that have picky eaters will have found something that works for you.  Also, feel free to email me any techniques or tricks that you are currently using that work for you and your family.   

Before I go, I do find it necessary to let you know that I do not subscribe to the school of thought promoted by the Sneaky Chef or Mrs. Jessica Seinfeld.  Although I applaud the work of these ladies and envy their level of success following the publication of their cookbooks, I don’t believe in deceiving our children.  I think kids need to know what foods are really supposed to taste like. How is putting pureed spinach in Brownies going to get our kids to appreciate Spinach? Now, before you start firing off the nasty emails to me, I realize that in some extreme cases these techniques are necessary to get any sort of nutrients in your child, but for the most part I feel that with a little research and what little patience we have left there are other ways to get our kids to eat what we want them too without having to puree everything and hide it.  In my next article, I’ll review a few of the more popular kid friendly cookbooks and let you know what my panel of testers thinks about some of the recipes. 

About Chef Heather

Chef Heather (aka Foodie Princess) is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education in New York City (formerly Peter Kumps New York Cooking School). She has worked for Gourmet Magazine, TV Personality Katie Brown, and the New York based Indian-fusion restaurant Tabla. Chef Foodie Princess resides in New Jersey with her husband and daughter and is in the process of launching her own Personal Chef Service "The Princess & The Pea".

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Food and Wine Pairing Made Simple: Zinfandel Print E-mail
ImageIn this series, we’ve talked about Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Syrah(Shiraz). And now I’ve saved the best for last, California’s current darling, Red Zinfandel!  I love it when a wine has the type of cult following that Zinfandel has, so when you finally discover it for yourself it’s like being let in on a great secret.  I remember the days when Pinot Noir had such a following. 

For years Zinfandel was known as the “mystery grape” a grape that seemed native to California, but in the 1970s scientists and historians tracked down its roots to Italy.  Although today California has the largest acreage of Zinfandel, the grape is also grown in South Africa and Australia.  Loved most in its traditional form, Zinfandel is often used as a base for Sparkling wines and has received unprecedented success in the form of White Zinfandel.  Zinfandel, much like Pinot Noir, is an incredibly versatile wine that ranges from light to hearty and robust depending on age and maturity.  Because of these variations some find it hard to pair Zinfandel with food, but as I hopefully have drilled into your psyche by now, trust your nose (aroma) and your palate (taste). 

A couple of things to remember about Zinfandel, it has a higher alcohol content (which isn’t necessarily a bad thing) and can be pretty tannic, so you will get some of that lingering astringent type mouth feel. The aromas and flavors range from heavy berry and plum to woody, cedar and oak.  When pairing food with these wines, if you are fortunate enough to have one more on the woody side, I have one word for you – barbecue.  Barbecued chicken and ribs are divine with a heartier Zinfandel.  If you come upon one with more fruit flavors follow some of the same suggestions as the other red wines with heavy fruit flavors.  Pasta, Pizza, Pork, and of course Beef.   

And so we end our series on Food and Wine pairing, I hope you have found my suggestions simple and easy to follow and I hope that I have given you the courage to try something new.  Remember, acquiring the basic knowledge is easy, learning to trust your own nose and palate can sometimes be hard, but like so many other things practice makes perfect.  Find a wine that you like and enhance your dining experience by matching with some of your favorite foods.

Cheers!

About Chef Heather

Chef Heather (aka Foodie Princess) is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education in New York City (formerly Peter Kumps New York Cooking School). She has worked for Gourmet Magazine, TV Personality Katie Brown, and the New York based Indian-fusion restaurant Tabla. Chef Foodie Princess resides in New Jersey with her husband and daughter and is in the process of launching her own Personal Chef Service "The Princess & The Pea".

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Lenten Fare in Greece with Recipe for Mushroom Stifado Print E-mail

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ImageNature’s seasons and religious fasting periods profoundly influence what our Greek village relatives eat for dinner.

Many are farmers, relying on the fruits (and vegetables) of their labors for sustenance.  Most supplement their diets with wild greens and snails, mushrooms and sea urchins, rabbits and octopus.  All generously share abundant seasonal harvests with friends and neighbors.

To honor church teachings, religious Orthodox Greeks follow a near-vegan diet (certain seafoods are allowed) on most Wednesdays and Fridays throughout the year.  Greeks also fast during Great Lent (starting seven weeks before Orthodox Easter), Christmas Lent, and the first 15 days of August.

In modern Greece, not everyone fasts with the same rigor.  Many younger people exclude only meat and poultry from their diets, while the devout also fast from dairy products, fish, olive oil, and alcoholic beverages. The fasting structure is complex enough that a church calendar is helpful to determine the precise nature of the fast required on any given day.

The first day of Great Lent is called Clean Monday, and marks the end of Carnival indulgence (called Apokreas - Απόκριες in Greek).  Clean Monday is a national holiday; and the highways are full of urban Greeks leaving the city for country picnics or seaside tavernas. 

Island families celebrate the day with a picnic of what is best and freshest from the fields and sea.  On the island, sea urchins are a perennial Clean Monday treat and are hand-gathered by the gunnysackful.

One year on the island, the confluence of perfect rains and temperature brought forth an unexpected bounty, just in time for Clean Monday.  My husband returned home from surveying a mountain pasture with a big bag of horse mushrooms.  After vetting their edibility with a knowledgeable Aunt (the primary rule of wild mushroom gathering is “when in doubt, throw it out”), I constructed a hearty stew using this unexpected treasure.      

Mushroom Stifado (Μανιτάρια Στιφάδο)

Mushroom Stifado tastes best when made with wild mushrooms or a mixture of cultivated cremini, oyster, and shiitake mushrooms.  Even when made with a single type of mushroom, this hearty stew is wonderful.  Serve it over pasta, with roasted potatoes, or as an appetizer.  The chopped leftovers, with the addition of vegetable (or chicken) stock, make a very flavorful soup.

  • 2 cups pearl onions (1 pound) or 14-ounces frozen
  • 6 Tbsp. olive oil, divided
  • 6 cups mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed, and cut in 1” chunks (1 1/2 pounds)
  • 2 cups diced yellow onions, 1/2” dice
  • 2 Tbsp. minced garlic
  • 1 tsp. Aleppo pepper or 1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper (optional)
  • 1 cup red wine
  • 1 15-ounce can diced tomatoes or 2 cups fresh, with juices
  • 1 Tbsp. minced rosemary
  • 2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
  • 2 tsp. sugar 

Peel the pearl onions and cut an X in the root end to help hold the onion layers together.  An easy way to peel the onions is to drop them in boiling water for a minute and then slip off the peels.

Sauté the peeled (or frozen) pearl onions, lightly seasoned with freshly ground black pepper, in 2 Tbsp. olive oil until the onions are well browned on all sides and cooked through.  Remove the browned onions from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Sauté the mushrooms, lightly seasoned with freshly ground black pepper, in the oil from the onions until they are well browned on all sides, adding olive oil as necessary.  Scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.  Remove the browned mushrooms from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Sauté the diced onions, lightly seasoned with freshly ground black pepper, in the same oil until they soften and begin to turn golden, adding olive oil as necessary.  Scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.  Stir in the garlic and Aleppo pepper, and cook for one minute.  Stir in the wine and cook until reduced by half.  Stir in the tomatoes, rosemary, vinegar, and sugar.  Bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer for 15 minutes.  Stir in the browned mushrooms and simmer for 15 minutes.  Stir in the browned pearl onions and simmer for 5 minutes. 

Serve with pasta or potatoes that have been tossed with olive oil, minced garlic, salt, and pepper.

About Laurie Helen Constantino

ImageLaurie Helen Constantino and her husband have homes in Anchorage, Alaska, and on a rural Greek island. In both kitchens, the foods of the Mediterranean play a starring role. "Tastes Like Home: Mediterranean Cooking in Alaska" is her first cookbook. All proceeds from the sale of Tastes Like Home go to the Holy Transfiguration Greek Orthodox Church Building Fund in Anchorage, Alaska.  For readers with questions about the cookbook or the Building Fund, please write to Laurie at This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it and she will promptly respond.

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Food & Wine Pairing Made Simple: Shiraz/Syrah Print E-mail
ImageThe saucy full bodied red wine known to the Australians and South Africans as Shiraz or to us in the good ole US of A as Syrah, has a story that rivals the best movie of the week characters.  Most well known for its history in the Rhone region of France, there is quite a bit of debate about how this stellar grape made it to Rhone.  Some say the grape was brought over from the Shiraz region of Iran (Persia), others say it was the Romans.  But one thing is for sure, regardless of its true birthplace the grape produces one of the most complex and enjoyable red wines around.

When Syrahs are first produced they are deep in color almost purplish-black and very tannic (which will give you that pucker up sensation that I mentioned in previous articles), but Syrah ages well and will eventually lighten a bit in color and the tannins will also soften.  The flavor and aroma of a Syrah run the gamut depending on the age.  A young Syrah will have a Tar, Spice, and Pepper nose and flavor where an older one will have some sweeter characteristics, blackberries, black currants, plums, but still with a bit of smokiness to it.  As you would imagine, a wine with such deep intense flavor can only be paired with some of your richer/heavier meals.  This is not a wine that will pair well with Shrimp Cocktail.  However this is a wine that goes beautifully with Mediterranean cuisine, a hearty bouillabaisse, or even something as comforting and simple as eggplant parmesan.

When looking for a Shiraz/Syrah to try, some say the best in the world comes from Australia or possibly those from the Rhone regions of France, where it is sometimes known as Hermitage, but I have found that our friends in California also produce great quality Syrah.  I would suggest trying ones from several different regions and just like all the other wines we’ve discussed, pick the one that most speaks to you and try it out with some of your favorite wintertime dishes.

Coming soon for our final article on Food and Wine pairing we have saved the best for last, America’s current darling of the wine world Zinfandel. 

About Chef Heather

Chef Heather (aka Foodie Princess) is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education in New York City (formerly Peter Kumps New York Cooking School). She has worked for Gourmet Magazine, TV Personality Katie Brown, and the New York based Indian-fusion restaurant Tabla. Chef Foodie Princess resides in New Jersey with her husband and daughter and is in the process of launching her own Personal Chef Service "The Princess & The Pea".

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Greek Village Feasting: Chicken Kokkinistos Print E-mail

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ImageChickens are ever-present in the village.  Crowing roosters wake us in the morning. Chickens that have flown the coop stroll the streets at leisure, darting in and out to catch an insect or avoid a passing car.

Meandering our way down farm roads, we keep a sharp eye out for chickens.  The field birds are free to go wherever they want, which is often scratching dirt in the middle of the road.

When you can find the hens’ hidden nests, field chicken eggs are remarkably good.  The yolks range from deep gold to bright orange and have wonderful flavor.  Making a meal from farm fresh eggs is a treat I never tire of having.

As a child of suburban America, the only live chickens I ever saw were in the smelly livestock exhibit at the county fair.  For me, chicken meant a smooth pink carcass, wrapped in plastic and stuffed with a bag of giblets.

On one of my early trips to Greece, we got off the plane and drove straight to cousin Froso’s house.  She was in her courtyard, up to her elbows in chicken feathers and blood.  One of her roosters had been a compulsive crower, so was headed for the pot.  Two hens were stacked nearby, waiting to be plucked.

The air surrounding Froso was full of flying feathers, as she deftly and rapidly cleaned the birds.  The graphic scene was a far cry from the tidy, factory-cleaned chicken to which I was accustomed.

ImageThe day after we saw her plucking it, Froso served us rooster in tomato sauce in honor of our arrival.  It was splendid; the rooster was tender and savory and tasted better than any chicken I’d eaten in my life.

Roosters are prized on the island for their full flavor.  Long, slow cooking tenderizes the bird, which otherwise would be tough.

Rooster cooked in tomato sauce - Rooster Kokkinistos - is festive fare.  It is served on name days (celebrated in Greece and similar to birthdays in America) and to welcome those returning from abroad.  Traditional islanders make Rooster Kokkinistos for the August 15 Feast of the Virgin Mary, a major holiday in Greece.

Serving long-cooked rooster stew during August heat may seem counter-intuitive.  The wheat harvest, however, occurs mid-summer.  Chickens gorge on fresh grain left in the fields after combines pass through.  By August, they are fat and at their peak of flavor.

Except in the village, we don’t have access to roosters.  In Alaska, I make Chicken Kokkinistos using the best quality birds I can find, preferably organic and free range. The aromatic Kokkinistos sauce, rich with tomatoes, onions, and cinnamon, enhances the mild flavor of supermarket chicken.  Its flavors spirit me back to the village.

Chicken Kokkinistos with Potatoes [Πετ’νός (Κόκορας) Κοκκινιστός με Πατάτες]

Serves 6 - 8

Adapted from Συνταγές Λημνιακής Κουζίνας (Limnian Recipes) by Ουρανία Βαγιάκου (Athens 2000)

Thin egg noodles can be substituted for potatoes in this dish.  Simply add uncooked noodles to the sauce for the last 15 minutes, and simmer until the noodles are done, adding water if necessary.  The amount of cinnamon called for in the recipe is just enough to add flavor without overwhelming the sauce.  I prefer using spicy “Saigon” cinnamon in this savory dish; standard supermarket cinnamon is fine, although its flavor is milder. “Saigon” cinnamon is sold by specialty spice sellers and upscale supermarket brands.   It’s important to remove the whole cloves before serving Chicken Kokkinistos; they are not pleasant to bite into.  You can wrap the cloves in cheesecloth before adding to the sauce to make them easier to remove.  I rarely take the time to do so; I count the number of cloves and fish around in the sauce until I account for them all.

  • 3 - 3 1/2 pound chicken, cut up or 3 pounds chicken thighs
  • Salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 cup olive oil, divided
  • 4 cups diced yellow onions, 1/4” dice
  • 2 Tbsp. minced garlic
  • 2 cups dry white wine
  • 3 cups, or 2 14.5-ounce cans, diced tomatoes with their juices
  • 3 cups water
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 6 whole cloves
  • 1 tsp. cinnamon, preferably Vietnamese Cassia "Saigon" Cinnamon
  • 1 tsp. sugar
  • 2 pounds potatoes, preferably red or Yukon Gold

Wash and dry the chicken well.  Season the pieces on both sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Heat 1/4 cup olive oil in a large pot until it’s very hot but not smoking (if oil is very hot, chicken skin is less likely to stick to the pan).  Place the chicken in the pot, skin side down, and let cook until it’s well browned.  Turn over and brown the other side of the chicken.  Brown the chicken in batches; don’t try to crowd all the chicken into the pot at one time or the chicken will steam rather than brown.

Remove the chicken from the pot, and pour off most of the oil, leaving only enough to sauté the onions.  Cook the onions in the remaining oil until they soften and begin to turn golden, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot.  Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute.

Add the wine, and cook until it is reduced by half.  Stir in the tomatoes and their juices, water, bay leaves, cloves, cinnamon, and sugar.  Return the chicken to the pot, submerging it in the sauce.  Bring the sauce to a boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer uncovered for 45 minutes.  Taste and add cinnamon, as needed.

While the chicken is cooking, peel the potatoes, cut them into large chunks, and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Fry batches of potatoes in the remaining 1/4 olive oil until they are nicely browned on all sides, but not cooked through.  Remove potatoes from the oil and drain on paper towels.

After the chicken has cooked for 45 minutes, remove the 6 whole cloves from the sauce.  Stir in the browned potatoes and cook for 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are cooked, the chicken is tender, and the sauce has thickened.  Taste and add salt or freshly ground black pepper, as needed.

Serve with a crisp green salad, slices of feta cheese, black olives, and plenty of crusty bread for mopping up the sauce.

About Laurie Helen Constantino

ImageLaurie Helen Constantino and her husband have homes in Anchorage, Alaska, and on a rural Greek island. In both kitchens, the foods of the Mediterranean play a starring role. "Tastes Like Home: Mediterranean Cooking in Alaska" is her first cookbook. All proceeds from the sale of Tastes Like Home go to the Holy Transfiguration Greek Orthodox Church Building Fund in Anchorage, Alaska.  For readers with questions about the cookbook or the Building Fund, please write to Laurie at This email address is being protected from spam bots, you need Javascript enabled to view it and she will promptly respond.

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Food & Wine Pairing: Pinot Noir Print E-mail

ImageToday we’re going to talk about the reigning Princess of the wine world, Pinot Noir.  I have been eagerly awaiting to talk about Pinot Noir since it happens to be my favorite of all the red wines.  I often tell people the great thing about Pinot Noir is that it's a good “Gateway” wine; it’s a perfect wine to start out with when you’re trying to make that transition from white wines to red.  For many years Pinot Noir went virtually un-noticed in this country as we focused on our Merlots and Chardonnays. Only a select few seemed to appreciate a good Pinot, that is until the movie “Sideways” came on the scene.  Now practically everyone is singing the praises of Pinot Noir and that popularity has been reflected in the price point as well.  Although I have to say that there are still good ones to be found under $20, my particular favorite is from Esser Vineyards.

Pinot Noir is the red grape in France’s Burgundy wine country, but the grape itself has always had a reputation of being a bit unstable which can make it hard for Pinot Noir fans to find truly top quality wines.  With that being said, some of the best Pinot Noir wines are among the best wines in the world, period.  Although France is still the largest cultivator of the Pinot Grape, California isn’t far behind.  Areas such as Carneros, Monterey, Santa Barbara, the Russian River Valley and our friends in Oregon are all producing top notch Pinot Noirs.

Pinot Noir is a medium bodied wine, described at times as being delicate, compared to the full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  Pinot Noir has very fruity characteristics and just enough tannins to brighten the flavor like when you use a little lemon to brighten the flavor of fish.  Depending on the age of the Pinot Noir, the aromas and flavors can range from that of cherries, plums, raspberries, and strawberries to more complex flavors like chocolate, tobacco, or figs.  You can even detect an earthiness at times.  The great thing about pairing Pinot Noir with food is that because the aromas and flavors run the gamut, you can pair it with almost anything.  This is a red wine that you can drink with Chilean Sea Bass and Beef Stew. The most classic pairing is that of Pinot Noir and Roast Beef.  Other great pairings are Duck, Quail, or Lamb.  I’ve served Pinot Noir with a simple Cheese Quiche; I’ve even polished off a bottle with Pizza.  But always remember my number one rule, the flavors of the wine must compliment the flavors in your food; meaning a Pinot Noir that has flavors of Chocolate or Tobacco wouldn’t necessarily go well with that Sea Bass, but one with more fruit flavors will.  And, as with all the wines we discuss, the key is to find what you like and make it work with your favorite meals. And always taste, taste, taste as many different wines as you can. Train your palate.

Next time we will meet up with that lovely lady Syrah.


About Chef Heather

Chef Heather (aka Foodie Princess) is a graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education in New York City (formerly Peter Kumps New York Cooking School). She has worked for Gourmet Magazine, TV Personality Katie Brown, and the New York based Indian-fusion restaurant Tabla. Chef Foodie Princess resides in New Jersey with her husband and daughter and is in the process of launching her own Personal Chef Service "The Princess & The Pea".

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