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From the Chef Explore the interests and food of Chefs as they write about what interests them most!
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Baking with the Kids -- Are You Crazy? |
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Pizza Dessert Tart with the Works
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Pâte Brisée with Cream Cheese
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Baking with kids is not only fun but it can also provide the perfect opportunity for some incidental learning to occur (not to mention spending quality time with the little squirts).
The kitchen is a great vehicle to learn reading skills (reading the recipe); math skills (such as addition, subtraction, and fractions); science skills (such as how carbon dioxide, yeast, and air help baked goods to rise); and don't get me started on the organizational and sanitary skills it teaches. Kids of all ages can learn to bake as long as the recipe and the skills involved to prepare it can be broken down into steps that the child can manage. No one, not even you parents, should be overwhelmed by the experience. Look at the kitchen as the ultimate science laboratory where you can create and eat your own experiments. A great way to start would be to take a recipe that you would like to prepare and re-write it into clearly defined steps. I do this when I develop recipes for my kid's baking camp. And it need not be too easy. My motto is never dummy down to kids! I have successfully prepared some of the best breads, Danish pastry, and croissants (and it doesn't get much more complex than that, folks) that I have ever tasted with 10-14 year old kids! Know what your kids are capable of before deciding how involved the recipe should be. For a first time baking experience, start with something relatively easy -- pizza dough or bread dough from scratch. Perhaps some muffins or cookies. Watching the fermentation process of yeast can be very cool and can possibly fuel your child's interest in science. When you prepare a yeast dough, did you know that proteins in wheat flour mixed with water form a network of proteins known as gluten? Gluten is sort of the foundation and framework of a house. It gives strength and structure to baked goods and prevents them from collapsing after baking. When carbon dioxide gas bubbles form inside a batter or dough they get stuck inside the gluten network. These trapped gas bubbles expand during the baking process forcing the dough to puff up and rise. Take a peek through the oven window and see the baked good rising, but remember not to open the oven door or heat will escape lowering the temperature. What is so wonderful about baking with your children is that without even thinking about it -- they will have learned so much. And don't think that this is the end of it! Your kids will see the same concepts they learned about while baking with you in school during science and math class. However, these topics of science could never have been presented to them in a more delicious manner than you did, and with so much love! Once the recipe has been read aloud, divvy out jobs according to age. Remember each child's capabilities will vary with age, development, and maturity level. I know a 10 year old who can chop carrots into brunoise (very small dice). Not all 10-year-olds are as capable at such a young age! So know what your child can and cannot do. Fine motor skills need to be developed to handle knives, peelers, or graters. In general, I do not recommend children using knives before the age of 10. Children of any age should be monitored carefully in the kitchen. A good way to start baking with very young children (under six or seven years of age) would be to pre-chop any ingredients that need it and allow the kids to sift the flour, crack the eggs, and mix ingredients. Shaping a pizza and rolling out cookie dough can be great fun too. When my daughter was little, she loved shaping pizza dough so much that after one hour of shaping (and re-shaping) I nicely had to demand that we bake it off (after all it was dinner)! In my experience, never, ever crack an egg directly into an electric mixing bowl full of ingredients (good advice whether you are baking with kids or not, even if you are a professional chef). Crack eggs into a liquid measuring cup or into a small bowl. This way, if a piece of shell gets in, you can fish it out with little effort. Right now, you are probably wondering if I am "two pancakes short of a stack" for advocating you to join your children in the kitchen. All you probably see is the mess that they will make. Okay, they will probably create some sort of mess. But I am way ahead of you. There is more to baking than just getting the baked good into the oven. Teaching kids how to see tasks through and clean up after themselves is an invaluable lesson not to mention preventing foodborne illness. Baking with kids can be one of the best experiences you will ever share with your children. Creating lifelong memories of the luscious baked goods you have prepared as a "team" truly evokes the love that you share. Suggestions:
- Set aside one day a week to bake something with your child for a breakfast, brunch, or dessert treat to be enjoyed throughout the week.
- Bake something special for a friend or grandparent to say "I love you".
- Read the recipe together to see if you have all the necessary ingredients, tools, and equipment prior to assembling the recipe.
- Shop together with your child for the "special" ingredients you will need.
- Explain to your child the role of different mixing tools you may need such as a whisk, spoon, rubber spatula, etc.
- Give the youngest bakers a chance to do something like rolling small pieces of cookie dough into balls to be placed on a sheet pan.
- Always be sure you and your child wash your hands before and after baking.
- Be careful when handling raw eggs, which can carry the Salmonella bacteria.
- Halve or double the recipe's ingredients with your child. This can be a great opportunity to learn multiplication or division.
- Make a fun, simple fruit sauce based on osmosis to serve with cake or pancakes. Place 1-2 cups of mixed fresh berries (strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, or blackberries work well -- quarter or slice very large strawberries) and gently mix in one quarter cup of granulated sugar. In about one hour the sugar will draw out moisture from the berries creating its own sauce!
- Be open-minded and above all else -- have fun. If the recipes do not come out as expected, adjust each of your mistakes and try again!
Here is a great dessert pizza recipe to use when baking with your kids!
Pizza Dessert Tart with the WorksRecipe makes 1 12-in. pizza. Step A. Make one recipe of Pâte Brisée with Cream Cheese, see below Step B. Make one recipe of Mixed Berry Pizza Sauce, see below Step C. Gather the following Pizza Toppings
- 1 tablespoon milk
- 2 teaspoons coarse sugar
- 1 cup diced fresh, or drained, canned pineapple
- ¼ cup dried cranberries or cherries
- ½ cup high-quality white chocolate warmed in a microwave for 20-30 seconds on low power and shredded using a vegetable peeler
- 1/3 cup mini semisweet chocolate chips or coarsely chopped semisweet chocolate
- 1/3 cup coarsely chopped walnuts, toasted in a 400°F oven for five minutes
- 1/3 cup shredded coconut, toasted
- Approximately 1 tablespoon confectioners' sugar put through a sieve for dusting over the top of the pizza
- Nonstick cooking spray
Step D. Assemble as follows: 1. Set the oven rack on the lowest position and preheat the oven to 4000F. Spray a 12-inch pizza pan with nonstick cooking spray. 2. Roll out the pâte brisée dough onto a lightly floured surface into a 12-inch circle, using the pizza pan as a guide, about ¼ inch thick. Fit the dough into the pizza pan. Roll the edges over like a cuff on a pant leg, if desired. With a pastry brush, brush the edges with milk and sprinkle them with coarse sugar. 3. Spread the mixed berry pizza sauce over the crust. 4. Scatter the crust with the pineapple and the dried cranberries or cherries. Bake for about 40 minutes until the crust is golden brown. 5. Remove the pizza tart from the oven and immediately sprinkle the shredded white chocolate "cheese", mini-chocolate chips, walnuts and coconut evenly over the top. Allow the pizza to cool. Dust the top with confectioners' sugar and serve the pizza at room temperature cut into slices.
Pâte Brisée with Cream Cheese- 1 ½ cups pastry flour
- 1/8 teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon grated orange zest
- 3 ½ ounces cream cheese, cut into cubes
- 4 ounces unsalted butter, cut into small cubes, wrapped in plastic wrap and frozen for 20-30 minutes
- 3 tablespoons ice cold orange juice
1. In the bowl of a food processor, add the flour, the salt and the orange peel. Pulse the mixture to blend. 2. Add the cream cheese to the dry ingredients and pulse the mixture a few times to distribute it until the cream cheese resembles small pea sized pieces. Open the top and feel the pieces to make sure they are the right size. 3. Add the frozen butter and pulse the mixture 8 to 10 times to reduce the butter to pea-sized pieces. 4. Add half of the orange juice pulsing the machine only until the mixture is just combined. Pour the mixture into a bowl and with your hands gather the dough together to form a ball. If the dough feels too dry, add the remaining orange juice. Shape the dough into a disk. Wrap it in plastic wrap and allow it to rest in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or overnight. Mixed Berry Pizza Sauce- 1 cup frozen raspberries, thawed and drained
- ½ cup fresh strawberries, sliced or frozen strawberries, thawed and drained (it is not necessary to slice them, if they were frozen)
- ¼ cup strawberry or raspberry jam or preserves
- 1 teaspoon fresh orange juice
- 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
In a food processor, purée all of the ingredients and pour the mixture into a bowl. Refrigerate the sauce until needed. About Chef Gail SokolGail D. Sokol is an award-winning professional in the culinary arts industry with demonstrated success in baking and pastry arts, supervision and training, and classical cuisine. Chef Sokol brings her expertise and unique teaching style to the serious home baker and professional in her book, About Professional Baking for which she was a Finalist for the International Association of Culinary Professionals Cookbook Awards for 2007. In addition, she has been featured on many weekly radio and television programs. Chef Sokol is currently an instructor of baking at Schenectady County Community College (SCCC) in Schenectady, New York. She is also creator and director of the Children's Baking Camp at SCCC 's Continuing Education Division.
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Game Sausage |
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Hand Made Game Sausage
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 Photo courtesy of Chef Jason Bangerter Chef Jason Bangerter from Auberge du Pommier in Toronto Canada recently sent Project Foodie this gorgeous picture of his hand made sausages. The sage leaf and caul fat wrapping grabbed our eyes, but when Chef Bangerter described the sausages we knew we had to share his creation. Read on to learn about these interesting sausages from Chef Bangerter himself: "The sausages are game sausages. In the fall we use all sorts of game at Auberge. Squab, venison, boar, bison, hare, rabbit and pheasant to name a few. Quite often we end up with little bits and pieces left over, for example, legs of birds, chains of loins, trotters and tongues So, we make these beautiful little sausages topped with a sage leaf and wrapped in caul fat. We hand cut the meat into fine little dice and mix it together with herbs and seasonings rolled up into either a canapé size or as a main course for lunch. These are beautiful with a smooth pommes puree and port wine jus. The mix may also be rolled in pastry and served as a small pie or baked in a terrine chilled and served with toast and Cumberland sauce.
Enjoy!"
I'm sure we will, thanks Chef Bangerter.
Hand Made Game SausageFrom Chef Jason Bangerter, Auberge du Pommier - 4 oz Venison loin, diced
- 2 oz Duck breast, diced
- 2 oz Smoked duck breast, diced
- 4 oz Boar loin, diced
- 4 oz Rabbit leg, diced
- 1 oz Brunoise double smoked bacon
- 1 oz Brunoise cured pork fat
- 1 oz Brunoise boar bacon
- 1 oz Brunoise orange peel, blanched
- 4 oz Shallots, brunoise & cooked gently until tender
- 2 tsp Parsley, picked & chopped fine
- 2 tsp Marjoram, picked & chopped fine
- 1 tsp Thyme, picked & chopped fine
- 1 tsp Rosemary, picked & chopped fine
- 1 tsp Chives, chopped fine
- 1 tsp Pommery mustard
- Salt & Pepper
Dice all the game meat a little bigger than a brunoise. This makes for a fantastic marbled look when the sausage is cooked and sliced
1. Take all prepared ingredients and mix in a bowl.
2. Make a patty and sauté to check seasoning. Do not overcook the sausage. It should be medium (pink) and juicy for best results. By testing the mix this way you may add more of an ingredient if you would like before rolling all the sausages. 3. When ready, roll into 3 oz portions and top with a sage leaf. Wrap in a thin layer of crepinette or pipe into casing. About Jason BangerterChef de Cuisine, Auberge du Pommier
At the helm of Auberge du Pommier since 2002, Bangerter has proven time and again that French cuisine, while rooted in the classics is ready and waiting for exciting, creative reinterpretation. Classically trained in Britain under uber-chef Anton Mosimannan and seasoned by his experience running top-rated Mosimann dining rooms throughout France and Switzerland, Bangerter continually draws on his gastronomic repertoire to push Auberge du Pommier's culinary vision higher, faster, smarter. Auberge du Pommier4150 Yonge StreetToronto, ON Canada M2P 2C6416-222-2220
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French Cuisine by a True Canadian Chef |
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 Photo courtesy Jason Bangerter, Auberge du Pommier Imagine overlooking the sea from a small fishing village on the coast of Brittany as you inhale the salty steam wafting up from a bowl of freshly cooked mussels. Savour the lingering smells of fresh baguette, pain au chocolat and rich dark roast café as you enjoy open-air breakfast on a quaint bistro terrace. Sample cheese and charcuterie in a family owned shop that has stood in its cobble stoned location for the past 300 years.
This is how it happens. Spend any amount of time in France and you will come away with an unparalleled respect and appreciation for food, whether you consider yourself a "foodie" or not. You can't help but drink in the passion and pride of the artisans producing the world's richest and most flavorful ingredients. Their traditions are centuries old; their techniques and recipes have been perfected by generation after generation. For an eager young chef, as I was when I first arrived in France, there can be no experience more intoxicating.
From as early as I can remember I knew I wanted to be a chef. And by no coincidence, also as early as I can remember, my family began spending summers on the coast of Nova Scotia with my grandparents at their cottage on Amherst shore. It was a time of relaxation, family gathering, tradition and good food - very good food! My grandparents are wonderful cooks, who enjoyed preparing great feasts of family rooted dishes. They would spend hours preparing, using only local ingredients and tinkering endlessly in the kitchen. I recall vividly the aroma of fresh breads, pies and cookies in the morning, simmering braises in the afternoon and the sweet salty smell of the seafood we would boil in the early evenings after a bountiful clam dig on the beach or visit to the lobster docks. Nova Scotia for me came to represent the very best of my culinary heritage; what my family and my country had to offer. When I arrived in France, I understood clearly what was available to me - a whole new country and a whole new family's worth of cooking.
Perhaps it goes without saying, but food in France is amazing. There is resourcefulness in the way the French cook so that an ingredient is used to its maximum potential for maximum flavour. As well, I was astonished by the endless variety of dishes that were being prepared, each one so distinctive and unique. And each region has specific ingredients for which it is known and respected. Normandy for example is renowned for its lush dairy pastures and apple laden orchards, Burgundy for its fine wine and abundant forests filled with game and wild mushrooms and Provence for its fresh herbs, seafood and beautiful vegetables. French dishes all start from some simple pure ingredient and evolve into a complex multi-layered flavour experience. I loved this because I grew up watching my grandparents evolve and perfect each and every family recipe. The process is what advances a dish - everyone's input - trying a new spice or a new technique. Creating depth of flavour is what's most captivating, and no one understands that better than the French.
My extraordinary culinary experience in Europe has led me to Auberge du Pommier in Toronto, an Oliver Bonacini restaurant. I could think of no better place, based on my commitment to providing inspired classic French cuisine but with a modern twist. Plus visually, Auberge pays homage to the rustic richness and patina of French country living. It feels like a place where a wonderful French meal and fine bottle of wine should be savored and enjoyed.
People sometimes shy away from French cuisine for health reasons, perceiving it to be heavy, full of cream and butter. But this is not the case, certainly not at the Auberge. French cooking has evolved considerably. Our flavors are derived from vegetable pureés and the reduction of natural juices. We use lovely, interesting oils, unique vinegars, lots of fresh citrus and fine herbs. In fact, I pride myself on taking a classic French recipe and evolving it to a lighter, more refined dish.
I suppose it seems strange that a Canadian boy who found his passion for cooking on a beach in Nova Scotia would end up as a fine dining chef of haute French cuisine. But all great cooking is rooted simply in tradition, family and the availability of wonderful, fresh ingredients. Canadian food will also evolve to the level of French cuisine. Just give us a few more centuries. Written by Jason Bangerter
About Jason BangerterChef de Cuisine, Auberge du Pommier
At the helm of Auberge du Pommier since 2002, Bangerter has proven time and again that French cuisine, while rooted in the classics is ready and waiting for exciting, creative reinterpretation. Classically trained in Britain under uber-chef Anton Mosimannan and seasoned by his experience running top-rated Mosimann dining rooms throughout France and Switzerland, Bangerter continually draws on his gastronomic repertoire to push Auberge du Pommier's culinary vision higher, faster, smarter. Auberge du Pommier4150 Yonge StreetToronto, ON Canada M2P 2C6416-222-2220
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Feng Shui of the Kitchen |
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There is no question, I am preoccupied with food. Some people focus their minds by going through a stack of papers to be filed, or looking through photos as they add them to the album. I focus my mind by rummaging around my pantry shelves, placing all the rolled up bags, bits of this and tidbits of that, on the counter and then returning to the shelves to see if I have something else to serve as the perfect vehicle for these accents. Perhaps it is my interest in Feng Shui, perhaps my aversion to seeing food wasted, but the joy and self-righteousness I feel in giving old food new life is incredibly satisfying and leaves me feeling squeaky-clean. Towards the end of the year, I start looking through my refrigerator and pantry and take stock of all the jars and bags of food I have been moving around month after month. I begin thinking about all the things I could make with them, so that I might keep it a little longer but would be more apt to use it. One Sunday morning before the holidays I get up, pull the French canning jars off the top shelf, and begin the transformation; Dijon, stone ground, and red wine mustards become the base for a Honey Mustard Dipping Sauce, mounds of olives - green or black, small or meaty - are pitted and chopped into Tapenade, and boxes of rock salt, covered with a thin layer of dust, are poured into a large stainless mixing bowl where whatever dried herbs I have around are added to become Herbe de Provence Roasting Salt or Lemon Verbena Bath Salts. Voila holiday gifts for workmates and relatives are taken care of. I don't reserve this habit only for the end of the year, however, as I also practice it on an on-going, subtler basis, January through December, (otherwise, I wouldn't be able to fit anything in my pantry for all the half empty jars!). It involves popping the lid on all the Tupperware in the refrigerator every few days and incorporating the contents into dinner that night, or adding it to the stockpot with whatever leftover bones I have after dinner, or tossing with a few greens the next day and bringing them to lunch as a salad. On the days I get a haul of fresh produce, I remove everything from the fruit bowl and vegetable drawer and decide whether I will use it, as it is, in the next 24 hours or whether it warrants preserving in some manner. My schedule is crazy on some days and impossible on others, so I try and prep a lot of what I buy the day it comes into the house. For instance, when I find big beautiful red beets at the market, I get them home, remove the greens and scrub the beets. If the greens are fresh and tender, I wash them well and dry them in a lettuce spinner, and they are added to whatever vegetables I sauté that evening. If they are old and limp, they are compost. I roast the beets while I putter about in the kitchen preparing the rest of that night's meal. Once the beets are tender, I remove them from the oven and set them aside to cool while we eat dinner. During kitchen clean up I throw the beets, skin on, in an airtight plastic container and store them in the refrigerator so I can add them to salads over the next day or two. If they are still around at the end of the week, I toss them with vinegar, salt, sugar, and spices - voila - pickled beets and I've bought myself a few more days. It's all about habit, and not letting things go forgotten for too long. I equate my routine of examining the contents of my kitchen shelves to physical exercise or meditation. The more you do it the easier it becomes. But if you go too long between sessions, it is hard to get the ball rolling again.
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I Scream, You Scream |
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Although ice cream tastes great year-round, nothing cools the senses or evokes more memories from childhood than ice cream on a warm summer's day. And homemade ice creams - well they are even better! Creating your own flavors can range from avocado to tutti fruiti. Ice cream falls under the category of a churn-frozen dessert. That means that the ingredients that make up the ice cream, which usually has a custard base, are combined and churned (or rotated) as they are being frozen. The ingredients are rotated in some sort of an ice cream machine by a paddle also known as a dasher. Air also gets mixed in and lends a specific texture depending on how much is incorporated into the mixture. This is known as overrun. Old-fashioned ice cream makers (and yes, they still exist) consist of an insulated tub where salt, ice, and ice water are combined to form an icy-cold brine. A smaller metal container, containing the unfrozen custard, fits inside the outer tub. Then, a large handle on the outside is turned manually and rotates the liquid custard as it freezes. The salt keeps the ice water at a below-freezing temperature while still remaining a liquid. This super cold liquid surrounds the base, freezing it very quickly. The freezing time depends on the machine's capacity, and depends on whether or not the machine is manual or electric. Most modern ice cream machines have become quite high-tech so that salt and ice are not even needed. These electric mixers have an inner metal tub that needs to be frozen for several hours before the base can be poured into it and then frozen. Larger, more commercial-style machines may not require this pre-freezing of the tub. Most ice creams consist of a custard base containing (but not limited to) heavy cream, whole milk, sugar, eggs (sometimes extra egg yolks to add richness), and flavorings. Some are even made with tofu, for vegans and those who cannot tolerate dairy products. The base is usually cooked, much the same way as a custard sauce - on top of the stove. It is important to keep a watchful eye to make sure that the egg proteins do not curdle. Once the appropriate temperature is reached (approximately 180 to 185 F), the custard should be poured through a sieve into a bowl placed over an ice water bath. This last step is crucial to catching any particles of lumpy egg protein that may have curdled. At this point, the custard needs to chill in the refrigerator for several hours or even overnight. This accomplishes two goals: First, a cold custard base will freeze more quickly and evenly with fewer large ice crystals. And smaller ice crystals means a smoother, creamier ice cream and better feel. Second, the act of chilling helps flavors to blend while allowing the fats in the base to bind with any water in the ingredients, becoming slightly thicker and developing more body. Be sure to taste the base before you begin freezing it! Cold foods dull flavors by slowing down molecules, which ultimately reach the taste buds and the nose more slowly. So adjust the flavor to your liking. After processing the base, the ice cream will be relatively soft, similar to soft-serve ice cream. This is the stage where chunky, solid ingredients can be added. This can include nuts chocolate, coconut, fruit, fudge sauce, or candy. The flavorings and chunky solid add-ins can be used to create any number of unique combinations. Anything goes! Flavors can range from savory to sweet. My personal favorite ice cream flavors tend to be on the sweeter side, and include creamy coconut, pumpkin, chocolate peanut butter cup, double malted chocolate, pistachio, apple cider bourbon, and pina colada (and getting caught in the rain-another type of fun summer memory!). The ice cream is now ready to be stored and should be packed into an air-tight plastic container, covered tightly, and frozen for several hours or overnight. After several hours, the flavors will meld together, creating your own cool, summer memories in ice cream. After realizing how easy it is to make, soon everyone will be screaming for homemade ice cream! About Chef Gail SokolGail D. Sokol is an award-winning professional in the culinary arts industry with demonstrated success in baking and pastry arts, supervision and training, and classical cuisine. Chef Sokol brings her expertise and unique teaching style to the serious home baker and professional in her book, About Professional Baking for which she was a Finalist for the International Association of Culinary Professionals Cookbook Awards for 2007. In addition, she has been featured on many weekly radio and television programs. Chef Sokol is currently an instructor of baking at Schenectady County Community College (SCCC) in Schenectady, New York. She is also creator and director of the Children's Baking Camp at SCCC 's Continuing Education Division.
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Wedding Season(ality) |
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According to numerologists, psychics, and students of all matters "lucky," Saturday, July 7, 2007 (7/7/7) was a perfect day for a wedding. Apparently it had something to do with energy, vibrations and patterns of something we can't see with our eyes. Personally, I don't follow numerological or psychic trends. But on the issue of July 7th weddings, I could not agree more. It was a glorious day for weddings in Toronto and I know because I catered one at a beautiful site located on an island in Lake Ontario. I guess it is possible that the date of the affair had something to do with its outcome, but I suspect that something else was at play for Penny and Marv , the couple who exchanged nuptials. I first met Penny and Marv in April. They sought me out because they wanted to hire a caterer who sources ingredients from local farmer's markets. Believe it or not, they searched high and low to no avail until they were referred to me by my old employer, The Healthy Butcher. When we met for the first time it was "local love" at first sight. Penny and Marv had very specific ideas regarding the food that would be served at their wedding. They wanted local, seasonal and preferably organic ingredients. We talked and established some basic parameters. Penny and Marv wanted organic butter and milk, fair trade coffee and their own edible flowers to be served. They had actually begun growing them in March for their July 7th wedding. They wanted the food to be prepared simply, allowing the natural flavors of pristine ingredients to shine through. I had a few stipulations too. Cooking with local ingredients requires a significant amount of flexibility. We could develop a menu as a guideline, but since the ingredients would be sourced the week of the wedding from growers who do not guarantee availability (and who would want them to?) flexibility was of the utmost importance.
From my perspective, as a chef who prides himself on the provenance of his ingredients, Penny and Marv were ideal clients. They understood the importance of allowing the seasons to dictate a menu's makeup. Local cherries, which had become available the week of the wedding were stuffed with duck confit and pistachios and served as an hors d'oeuvre. English peas, sugar snaps and snow peas picked the day before were paired with a classic accompaniment of baby carrots and bacon vinaigrette. One local baker, Alli, made perfect little potato buns to house the pulled pork and pea sprouts. Another bakery, St. John's, produced a beautiful variety of breads for the tables. Merchants of Green roasted fair trade Peruvian coffee beans the same day as the wedding resulting in fresh, almost nutty flavored coffee. All of these producers and many others contributed to Marv and Penny's wedding in a significant way. They made a very real appearance at the wedding even though they were not actually present. July 7th did, in fact, turn out to be a perfect day for a wedding. Perhaps the "triple sevens" played a part, but it is more than likely that Penny and Marv were blessed with a beautiful day, surrounded by great friends and family members, and local ingredients that were grown and produced with them in mind. Names have been changed to preserve anonymity. About Ezra Title Ezra Title has dedicated his professional career to the highest levels of restaurant cooking by working for some of the most highly accomplished chefs. From Massimo Capra in Toronto to Daniel Boulud and Dan Barber in New York to Traci Des Jardins in San Francisco, Ezra has learned classical French technique and developed an affinity for local ingredients that results in distinctive, inspired cuisine of uncompromising quality. Ezra Title is the chef/owner of chezvous, an at-home restaurant concept that brings vibrant cuisine and personalized service into the comfort of one's home. All of the chezvous menus are customized according to customer's tastes and ingredients are sourced directly from local growers and producers around Toronto. Ezra's love of classical French technique and affinity for local ingredients results in distinctive, inspired cuisine of uncompromising quality. For more information on turning your dining room into a five-star restaurant, contact chezvous at: http://www.chezvousdining.ca or email Ezra directly at
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Spring Ramps - Catch the Fever! |
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Pickled Ramps
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I LOVE SPRING TIME!!! I can not stress that enough. I love everything about it. The longer days. The sounds of children playing outside. Beers on patios. And to be honest, I am a lot more likeable in the spring (just ask my wife). Some years it can be difficult to figure out when spring has actually arrived. Some people use the groundhog method. Did he see his shadow? Did he not? If he did, what does that mean again? Some look towards the calendar, but when it's mid-April and there's a blizzard outside… Don't get me started. It's all so confusing. However, for chefs and foodies, alike, determining the exact time when spring has arrived is actually quite simple. When the ramps, asparagus and spring garlic show up at the local farmers' markets, spring has reared its beautiful head. In Toronto, Canada, where I live, some farmers' markets operate for 12 months. Vendors sell root vegetables from storage and supplement with imported produce. But the seasonal markets that open in the spring inevitably time their kick-off with the availability of the aforementioned ingredients. It's a very exciting time. In the land where winter can last up to six months, foodies get very excited at the prospect of local green vegetables. We begin dreaming of green food. We salivate at the thought of fresh, bright, colorful dishes. Is there a danger of overdosing on asparagus? So what does one do first with the first crops of the year? That's easy. The ramps have to be pickled. Ramps, also known as wild leeks, are among the first plants to emerge in the spring. They grow in moist, deciduous forests like Maple and have a distinct aroma and flavour, similar to spring onions and garlic. I like to buy as much as my friend Dael will sell to me at the Riverdale Farmer's Market http://www.friendsofriverdalefarm.com/market.htm. I take the ramps to my kitchen (my first batch was 12 pounds), cut off the root end, separate the bulbs from the leaves, and wash them at least three times. Then I blanch the bulbs and pour my pickling liquid over the top (see below for the recipe). I carry out this procedure about five times throughout the spring until I have amassed enough pickled ramps to get me through the year. Why? Because I NEED THEM. It's not just that I like them. I actually NEED THEM. Pickled ramps accentuate so many different dishes. They pair perfectly with my terrines and pates. My brown butter sauce for soft shell crab would be lifeless without pickled ramps. I even use the pickling liquid in the form of a foam that makes roast duck and squab weep with excitement. The greens usually get folded into vegetable ragouts. I love the way they puff up as if they're saying "Look at me. Now you guys have some life." I also cook the leaves until they are very tender and blend them into a silky green puree. Mashed potatoes with ramp puree are sinful. And who can resist a green goddess sauce made from reduced chicken stock or fish fume with crème fraiche and ramp green puree? Try it on fresh, wild fish or perfectly seared sea scallops. Once the ramps have been pickled, I turn my attention to the other seasonal beauties. I find every possible incarnation for spring garlic and asparagus. I love chilled asparagus soup. I salivate at the thought of roasted asparagus with fried eggs and Parmagianna Reggiano. Spring garlic works with just about everything. Potato croquettes with spring garlic & bacon is a favorite. Or spring garlic that has been confited (cooked slowly in olive oil) and lightly grilled is a simple way to taste the essence of spring. After six months of heavy, starch-laden comfort foods it is nice to be able to savor, or should I say devour, every fresh, local, green veggie in sight. Pickled Ramps - ½ pound cleaned ramps
- 1 tsp fenugreek
- 4 tsp coriander
- 2 1/2 tsp black pepper
- 1 Thai Chili
- 3 tsp fennel seed
- 1 litre rice vinegar
- ½ litre water
- 3/4 cup sugar
1. Place the spices in a pan and roast them on a medium heat until they are fragrant. 2. Add the toasted spices to the rest of the ingredients and bring them to a boil allowing the sugar to dissolve, forming the pickling liquid. 3. Place the ramps into a clean container and pour pickling liquid over them. 4. Cover with a lid and allow them to cool at room temperature. 5. Put ramps into the fridge for one week and then begin using them with everything and anything. About Ezra Title Ezra Title has dedicated his professional career to the highest levels of restaurant cooking by working for some of the most highly accomplished chefs. From Massimo Capra in Toronto to Daniel Boulud and Dan Barber in New York to Traci Des Jardins in San Francisco, Ezra has learned classical French technique and developed an affinity for local ingredients that results in distinctive, inspired cuisine of uncompromising quality. Ezra Title is the chef/owner of chezvous, an at-home restaurant concept that brings vibrant cuisine and personalized service into the comfort of one's home. All of the chezvous menus are customized according to customer's tastes and ingredients are sourced directly from local growers and producers around Toronto. Ezra's love of classical French technique and affinity for local ingredients results in distinctive, inspired cuisine of uncompromising quality. For more information on turning your dining room into a five-star restaurant, contact chezvous at: http://www.chezvousdining.ca or email Ezra directly at
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