Hot dogs have been getting a lot of press lately. Not the mystery-meat variety encased in plastic and found in every supermarket, but a new breed of dog developed to satisfy both the palate and the pocketbook. Leave it to chefs Gayle Pirie and John Clark to lead the dog race in the San Francisco bay area.

This wildly talented husband-wife team spent years cooking at landmark restaurants like Zuni Café and Chez Panisse; and then developed a restaurant consulting business servicing clients all over North America, Asia, and Canada. In 2001 the pair took over the kitchen at Foreign Cinema (one of my very favorite San Francisco restaurants), where their ever-changing Mediterranean-inspired menu has won critical acclaim from just about every local publication, as well as the New York Times and Gourmet magazine.
     

When I heard they had recently opened a "hot dog joint" on a busy corner in downtown San Francisco's historic theater district, it took me about 30 seconds to slip into my rain boots and head out the door - but first, a quick telephone conversation with Gayle. (Quick because she was in her car, headed to the northern California wine country for yet another consulting appointment.)

Despite their impeccable credentials, these chefs are no food snobs. They live and eat in the real world…just with standards a little higher than some of us. With two children aged 11 and 4, their busy lives have another important dimension, often causing one parent to remain close to home while the other oversees a restaurant. Like many families, their evenings often revolve around homework and other school-related activities. Even amidst all this craziness, they eat together as a family every day, and do their best to maintain a creative, stress-free environment where solitary computer-time is kept to a minimum.

Dinner en famille may feature a "gourmet" mac & cheese, a beloved fettuccine, or a favorite hash made from leftover steak. Preferred late-night snacks include hot chocolate, popcorn, and fresh fruit. (Needless to say, these "ordinary" treats are made extraordinary at Chez Clark - using only best-quality organic products.)

Lest we mistake her for Super Woman, Gayle readily admits she offsets periodic anxiety attacks with a massage, a pedicure, or acupuncture. (My kind of gal.) And like many parents on particularly busy days, it's not unusual for them to order take-out sushi from a neighborhood restaurant.

The couples' many consulting stints led them to explore the fast-food restaurant concept; particularly one that would elevate the common to the sublime. Inspired by a lifelong love of boudin blanc - as well as the occasional really good American hot dog - the answer became clear.

Show Dogs offers a globally-inspired menu of artisan hot dogs produced by a variety of local meat purveyors; complemented by an ingenious selection of house-made condiments and carefully selected local beers and wines. And don't look for any anemic, cottony hot dog buns here….theirs are custom-made daily by the legendary Acme Bread Company. House sides include Grass Fed Beef Chili, simply perfect Onion Rings, and Fresh Cut Fries - with or without their signature "barbecue dust".

Photography by John A. Benson

Gayle Pirie and John Clark are the authors of the Williams-Sonoma Bride & Groom Cookbook (Free Press 2006) and Country Egg, City Egg (Artisan 2000). Read more about their restaurants at www.showdogssf.com and www.foreigncinema.com.

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