Classic training … keeping on the traditions

How did these classically trained European chefs teach these values?  Jeffrey relates this through a story from when he was 17 or 18 working with a chef in a private club in New York.  He says that at that time he had "total blind faith, whatever the chef said that was the work, I hung on every breath of it".  He also quickly learned that "you didn't ask for nice things to be said" this was because "doing a good job was an expectation".  Jeffrey says that one winter day the Chef went to do an event and he decided to clean all of the copper in the kitchen.  Of course, being an eager and determined aspiring chef Jeffrey decided to "clean the copper the old fashioned way with salt and lemon, no polish".  He worked hard doing this and "couldn't wait for the chef to get back".  Once he returned, however, Jeffery quickly learned a very important lesson.  As he relates it "As soon as chef walked in the door, the first thing he said was 'missed a spot'.  That is when I learned the idea that you double check what you do and make sure it is perfect".  Reflecting on the lesson he learned that day Buben says he is not sure which was the better lesson "that he missed a spot or whether I wanted to be as mean as that". I asked Jeffrey if he is "as mean as that" when teaching aspiring chefs - his reply "At times, yes! Because you realize the success of the people that work for you is your success and you have to make them as successful as possible".

Onions, onions, onions - even for dessert!

Modern food expectations

Culinary trends - the constant evolution

Reflecting on culinary trends Jeffrey talks about how extreme an influence Chefs have on the food we eat even in our own homes.  Looking back on the evolution of ingredients such as Radicchio and Kiwi he says that at one time "radicchio was considered almost a foreign object"  but then in the 80's it became "an exotic gourmet ingredient" and now it's everywhere.  Mesclun salad is another example that followed a similar path and now as he says "is everywhere, it's even at McDonald's!".  What does this mean for chefs?  According to Buben "each time that evolves the bar must be raised".  Where does Buben believe this evolution of cuisine is going next?   He says he believes "the ingredient driven trend is over and that chefs are now embracing ingredients that are not going to go mainstream such as Berkshire pork and so forth".  As he views it, the trend is now "Small producers and things that are going to be special should only be available at the finest places".   

This is a stark contrast to the past where it used to be, as he says "an ingredient such as Fiddle Heads simply had to be on the plate because they were something different.  But now, maybe it is the maturity of cooking, you realize what you want to do with them and how you want to approach them as opposed to putting them on a plate simply because they are different.  You embrace it from the idea that it is seasonal and use it in its short season".  To illustrate he talks about the Stiniging Nettles that his Chef de Cuisine, RJ Cooper, wanted to use because of their taste and seasonality.  Initially he says, "RJ tried to use them as a green like kale".  But laughing, Buben says "finally I told him - you know no matter what you do it is still going to be like eating a shammy cloth!  Ultimately, we incorporated the Stinging Nettles into a Viscchysois, as a puree where they are much more delicate and softer".  As Jeffery describes this, it is clear that in the past this lack of visual presence would have been problematic, but with the evolving culinary style "embracing the ingredient" is what's important.  Culinary style is not the only thing that evolves.  This year, Vidalia's Chef de Cuisine RJ Cooper followed in Chef Buben's footsteps by winning the James Beard Mid-Atlantic Best Chef for 2007.  It seems that Vidalia is also evolving…

Vidalia Onion "Tatin"

From "Vidalia Restaurant"

Serves 6

• ½ cup sugar
• ¼ cup water
• 1 medium Vidalia onion
• 2 medium Granny Smith apples
• ¾ cup all purpose flour
• ¾ cup almond flour
• 1 ½ cups unsalted butter
• 6 egg whites
• 1 1/3 cups sugar

1. Preheat oven to 350.

2. In a small saucepan, combine sugar and water.  Cook over medium heat until it becomes a caramel (approximately 355 degrees on a candy thermometer). Carefully pour the hot caramel into the bottom of a 10 inch layer cake pan, cool.

3. Slice the onion and apple thinly with a knife.  Layer them in the bottom of the pan with the caramel. 

4. In a sauté pan, cook the butter over medium heat until nut brown and foamy.  Remove from heat and set aside.

5. In a mixing bowl, combine the sugar and the egg whites with a whisk.  Add the almond flour and all purpose flour and gently fold together.  Slowly add the brown butter and mix until thoroughly combined.  Pour the batter over the apples and onions. 

6. Bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes.

7. Allow to cool slightly and invert to un-mold.

8. Cut into 6 equal wedges and serve warm with your favorite vanilla ice cream.
    
***Almond flour can be found a gourmet cooking shops.  Almond flour can also be made by grinding blanched almonds (without skin) in a spice grinder.

Braised Rabbit Pappardelle with Spring Vegetables

Serves 6

• 1 fresh whole rabbit (2 ½ - 3 pounds)
• 2 ounces blended oil (we have a blend of 25% olive oil and 75% canola oil on hand at all times)
• 1 large carrot, peeled & chopped
• 2 celery ribs, chopped
• 1 large yellow onion, chopped
• 4 cloves peeled garlic
• 3 Roma tomatoes, chopped
• 1 cup red wine (we use syrah)
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 bunch fresh thyme
• 10 black peppercorns
• 5 cups veal stock or chicken stock
• 3 bunches baby carrots, blanched & peeled
• ½ cup English peas, blanched
• ½ cup fava beans, blanched & peeled
• ½ cup roasted garlic cloves
• 1 pound pappardelle
• 2 tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• 4 tablespoons whole grain mustard
• 6 ounces diced (¼") & cooked pancetta
• 4 tablespoons butter
  

Preheat oven to 350.

Break down the rabbit (or have butcher do for you) into front and hind legs and saddle.  Reserve the trimmings and rib cage.  Place the bones and trimmings on a sheet tray or roasting pan and roast in 350' oven until golden brown.  Set aside.

Heat a heavy bottomed Dutch oven or similar oven proof pan over medium-high heat.  Season the rabbit legs and saddle generously with salt and pepper.  Add the blended oil to pan and sear the rabbit on all sides until golden brown, remove and set aside.

Keep the pot over heat and add the carrot, celery, onion, garlic & tomatoes and cook until ingredients have caramelized.  Deglaze with the red wine.  Add the herbs, peppercorns, rabbit, roasted bones and trimmings, and stock and bring to a simmer.  Cover and place the entire pot in the oven.  Cook until the rabbit meat begins to pull away from bone (between two & three hours).  Remove the pot from oven and let cool until you can remove items with your hands.  Remove the saddle and legs from the pot and pull the meat from the bones.  Set aside.
Strain the cooking liquid and skim any fat off the top.  Place the liquid back in the pot and reduce by half and set aside.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil.  Cook the pasta until just tender or al dente.  Toss lightly with olive oil and set aside. 

In a large sauté pan (large enough to hold all ingredients) place 5 cups of the braising liquid, whole grain mustard, pancetta and rabbit.  Bring the ingredients to a simmer and cook until the mixture begins to thicken slightly.  Add the baby carrots, English peas, fava beans, roasted garlic and pasta.  Cook until heated through, finish with butter, season with salt and pepper as needed.

Portion into six large bowls and serve immediately.