 James Beard Best Chef - Mid-Atlantic 1999, Jeffrey Buben, recently spoke with us about his ChefLife. Chef Buben, the owner and chef at restaurants Vidalia and Bistro Bis in Washington, DC, describes his culinary style as a reflection of his classical French training. Although he graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, when talking about his training Jeffrey primarily speaks about working under French chefs in New York. These chefs instilled upon him "classic fundamentals" the old fashioned way. These fundamentals included both "the importance of learning your craft, respecting the disciplines of the kitchen, and working within a brigade". These days he enjoys teaching these same fundamentals to the current generation of aspiring chefs saying "It was something I was given by European chefs therefore I see it as an important thing to give back".
Classic training … keeping on the traditionsHow did these classically trained European chefs teach these values? Jeffrey relates this through a story from when he was 17 or 18 working with a chef in a private club in New York. He says that at that time he had "total blind faith, whatever the chef said that was the work, I hung on every breath of it". He also quickly learned that "you didn't ask for nice things to be said" this was because "doing a good job was an expectation". Jeffrey says that one winter day the Chef went to do an event and he decided to clean all of the copper in the kitchen. Of course, being an eager and determined aspiring chef Jeffrey decided to "clean the copper the old fashioned way with salt and lemon, no polish". He worked hard doing this and "couldn't wait for the chef to get back". Once he returned, however, Jeffery quickly learned a very important lesson. As he relates it "As soon as chef walked in the door, the first thing he said was 'missed a spot'. That is when I learned the idea that you double check what you do and make sure it is perfect". Reflecting on the lesson he learned that day Buben says he is not sure which was the better lesson "that he missed a spot or whether I wanted to be as mean as that". I asked Jeffrey if he is "as mean as that" when teaching aspiring chefs - his reply "At times, yes! Because you realize the success of the people that work for you is your success and you have to make them as successful as possible".
Onions, onions, onions - even for dessert!
Vidalia and Bistro Bis each reflect Chef Buben's classic French training but Vidalia also imparts a Southern twist with contemporary American flare. We asked Buben why he named his restaurant after an onion. Jeffrey explains "We didn't start out being on onion restaurant. The Vidalia started as our icon and it represented a unique American product, seasonal food and that kind of approach. But between the Vidalia as our icon and my wife's Southern accent when she answered the phone, we became a Southern restaurant noted for Vidalia Onions. Once that groundswell started we needed dishes that were onion centric and influenced". Today Buben and Vidalia fully embrace the Vidalia Onion presenting an all onion tasting menu when the Vidalia Onions are in season. The menu incorporates Vidalia Onions in every course, even dessert! The "Vidalia Onion Tatin", recipe below, has become very popular and is now one of Vidalia's signature dishes.
Modern food expectations
Jeffrey describes Bistro Bis as "classic French cooking with a bit of a modern angle". As he says "Everything is round in classic French cooking ... doing classically named dishes and interpreting them for modern expectations of customers." Part of the modern expectations that Chef Buben imparts in his food is the use of rare breed animals along with heirloom and seasonal vegetables. He not only enjoys these food items but believes "It's important that people are doing this. You have to support it otherwise they won't be able to do it." as a result he "seeks out those ingredients". He is quick to point out, however, that he does not go ingredient shopping nor does he shop by specific cooking trends, saying " I cook what I want to eat … and my food is a reflection of my style, of what's on my mind and my palate at that time of year".
Culinary trends - the constant evolution
Reflecting on culinary trends Jeffrey talks about how extreme an influence Chefs have on the food we eat even in our own homes. Looking back on the evolution of ingredients such as Radicchio and Kiwi he says that at one time "radicchio was considered almost a foreign object" but then in the 80's it became "an exotic gourmet ingredient" and now it's everywhere. Mesclun salad is another example that followed a similar path and now as he says "is everywhere, it's even at McDonald's!". What does this mean for chefs? According to Buben "each time that evolves the bar must be raised". Where does Buben believe this evolution of cuisine is going next? He says he believes "the ingredient driven trend is over and that chefs are now embracing ingredients that are not going to go mainstream such as Berkshire pork and so forth". As he views it, the trend is now "Small producers and things that are going to be special should only be available at the finest places".
This is a stark contrast to the past where it used to be, as he says "an ingredient such as Fiddle Heads simply had to be on the plate because they were something different. But now, maybe it is the maturity of cooking, you realize what you want to do with them and how you want to approach them as opposed to putting them on a plate simply because they are different. You embrace it from the idea that it is seasonal and use it in its short season". To illustrate he talks about the Stiniging Nettles that his Chef de Cuisine, RJ Cooper, wanted to use because of their taste and seasonality. Initially he says, "RJ tried to use them as a green like kale". But laughing, Buben says "finally I told him - you know no matter what you do it is still going to be like eating a shammy cloth! Ultimately, we incorporated the Stinging Nettles into a Viscchysois, as a puree where they are much more delicate and softer". As Jeffery describes this, it is clear that in the past this lack of visual presence would have been problematic, but with the evolving culinary style "embracing the ingredient" is what's important. Culinary style is not the only thing that evolves. This year, Vidalia's Chef de Cuisine RJ Cooper followed in Chef Buben's footsteps by winning the James Beard Mid-Atlantic Best Chef for 2007. It seems that Vidalia is also evolving… | Vidalia 1990 M Street, NWWashington, DC 20036202.659.1980 | Bistro Bis
15 E Street, NW
Washington, DC 20001
202.661.2700 |
Vidalia Onion "Tatin"From "Vidalia Restaurant" Serves 6
- ½ cup sugar
- ¼ cup water
- 1 medium Vidalia onion
- 2 medium Granny Smith apples
- ¾ cup all purpose flour
- ¾ cup almond flour
- 1 ½ cups unsalted butter
- 6 egg whites
- 1 1/3 cups sugar
1. Preheat oven to 350.
2. In a small saucepan, combine sugar and water. Cook over medium heat until it becomes a caramel (approximately 355 degrees on a candy thermometer). Carefully pour the hot caramel into the bottom of a 10 inch layer cake pan, cool. 3. Slice the onion and apple thinly with a knife. Layer them in the bottom of the pan with the caramel. 4. In a sauté pan, cook the butter over medium heat until nut brown and foamy. Remove from heat and set aside. 5. In a mixing bowl, combine the sugar and the egg whites with a whisk. Add the almond flour and all purpose flour and gently fold together. Slowly add the brown butter and mix until thoroughly combined. Pour the batter over the apples and onions. 6. Bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes. 7. Allow to cool slightly and invert to un-mold. 8. Cut into 6 equal wedges and serve warm with your favorite vanilla ice cream.
***Almond flour can be found a gourmet cooking shops. Almond flour can also be made by grinding blanched almonds (without skin) in a spice grinder.
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