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Great Small Town America Food?

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Written by foodie pam   
Saturday, 02 December 2006
I've read many articles on the great unexplored food in small town America.  You probably have to.  Articles that describe small "hole in the wall type" restaurants with exceptional food despite their location and appearance; in other words, just great food.  This past summer, Husband and I tried to find some of this food and sadly we failed.  As I've mentioned before we took a 3 week road trip to see some of the mid-to-western northern United States.  We primarily stayed in small towns and national parks.  We searched for hidden culinary gems in these small towns. 

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Yet another diner
Your mileage may vary, but we did not find any hidden gems.  Instead, we mostly found diners, greasy diners at that, where things like chicken fried steak were the specialty and barely edible.  One night, in South Dakota, we tried 3 different small towns before even finding a single restaurant that was open, it was 7pm, and the one we found was a bar!  In several places, including north eastern California, Wyoming, and Idaho we found diners.  The majority of these places seemed to specialize in grease. 

We did find one restaurant that we really enjoyed. The restaurant, Jake’s, located in The Midnight Star in Deadwood, SD is owned by Kevin Costner.  I can't recall what we had but I remember enjoying the meal very much.  We also had great service and enjoyed the view looking down on to the tourist filled street including a mock gun fight.  This isn't a hidden small town America gem, however, because it’s not the kind of restaurant small town American would eat at.  This is a fine dining restaurant with high quality food.  The only reason this restaurant is in Deadwood is because of the mostly out-of-state, gambling, tourists that visit.  So, while we enjoyed it, it didn't fit the undiscovered small town restaurant we sought.

I really wanted to find some great small town food.  Even though we didn't find good food in any of the towns we continued to search in each new place we went.  But after three weeks of eating greasy, mushy, and mostly tasteless or just plain bad tasting food I have to ask: Do hidden small town American restaurant gems really exist anywhere?  I hope so, but at the end of our trip I had such a large craving for good food that I cooked non-stop for weeks.  I'm sure the next time we take a road trip we'll try to find the hidden gems but right now I'm not looking forward to it...

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Last Updated ( Tuesday, 24 June 2008 )
It's a different food world o
Carol (Unregistered) 2006-12-07 12:00:35

This reminds me of a trip to southern Utah last spring (and many other trips to "small town America"). Those of us spoiled by the great food in the Bay Area (and cities in general) forget that food has not changed much outside those zones and will rarely meet our standards. For one thing, they can't get/afford the good ingredients (unless they grow/make them... which is a real find), and knowledge of nutrition and gourmet cuisine generally comes from experience cooking in cities or high-priced cooking schools, neither of which is part of the woodwork in economically/educationally challenged areas. Usually the out-of-the-way gems are located near sources of tourists who have $$ and gourmet appetites, like a small Mex place we found in Escalante (not much of a town, but a very popular area for hikers, etc. due to the incredible natural beauty). It’s run by someone from urban California… as is not uncommon.
There used to be...
Margaret (Unregistered) 2006-12-12 17:58:06

I have the book "Where The Locals Eat" that was published in 1998. It's a shame that this book hasn't been updated and put up as a web resource someplace. I found many of the choices in the areas where I am familiar to be credible. The editors, Magellan Press, culled "best of" lists from various local publications, critics and even reviewers. I liked having a short list of places I could at very least find a decent meal when I was traveling. Unfortunately, the publishers only have an updated version for Nashville--their home town. The global list is now somewhat obsolete...six years is a long time in restaurant years. However, the restaurant you mentioned, Jakes in Deadwood, SD, is mentioned as a winner in the "Best Restaurant in Town" category for the area. Chalk one up for Magellan Press.
pam (Publisher) 2006-12-12 18:30:40

Carol - Sure they may not have cooking school behind them but I wasn't expecting gourmet food just interesting local fare. It seems in many places that equates to greasy diners

Margaret - Actually we found Jakes through the restaurant section of one of our tour books. Although, a book devoted to local food would certainly have been a much better reference...
writer/blogger
Mimi (Unregistered) 2006-12-18 11:43:22

I live in a small town in Wisconsin. My observation is that the legendary small-town dinner food is mostly greasy. Is it bad? No, just greasy. My little town has two legendary hamburger joints. The locals and others rave about the burgers and they are good, just not what I would eat day after day. It's more about the legends than the burgers, I suspect.

All I can say is that small towns have been slow to move toward healthier fare. Frying is still big here.
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