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Written by Virginia Willis  Photo by Kathy Waites The amusing thing about Thanksgiving is it's the one meal that's almost immovable in terms of menu. Each family member has that one dish that is their favorite, and for some it's like the entire holiday is absolutely positively ruined if the sweet potatoes are topped with something other than toasty brown marshmallows or the Squash Casserole is missing. A day which is supposed to be a joyful gathering of family and friends instead becomes a day without sunshine. This I know. The deal is, dishes can be added, but nothing can be removed from the menu. I learned this the hard way. As a chef and now in charge of most of the savory aspects of the Thanksgiving meal (Mama still does the desserts) I have tried to branch out a bit. I once put panko breadcrumbs on the squash casserole and I sincerely felt like an enemy of the state. One dish I absolutely won't mess with is the mess of greens. I have had, without fail, some form of cooked winter greens at every Thanksgiving meal of my entire life. I dare say even longer than turkey because my grandmother, whom I called Meme, cooked them for hours until they were meltingly soft. They were indeed as appropriate as pablum for an infant. During the fall, I generally like them a bit more toothsome (see recipe below), but I know better. For Thanksgiving I cook them just like Meme did, in a salty smoky broth flavored with hog jowl (see recipe below). The fat melts and the pot likker is oily and slick, perfect for sipping later and enjoying with a wedge of cornmeal. In late November, the fields have been kissed with a touch of frost, something that Meme said brings out the sweetness in the bitter collard, kale, or mustard greens. They are at the beginning of the peak of the season and absolutely the epitome of eating local and in season. Sweet potatoes and panko are one thing. Messing with the greens is quite another.
If it's not broke... Collards with Hog Jowl Recipe by Virginia Willis
Serves 4 to 6
Kale, collards, turnip greens, and mustard greens are dark leafy winter greens that are nutritional powerhouses and familiar friends on the Southern table. Look for brightly colored greens free of brown spots, yellowing edges, or limp leaves. Try flavorful seasonings such as smoked turkey or ham hock for the meat eaters and smoked salt or chipotle chiles for the vegetarians.
The best way to clean greens is to first remove the tough stalks and stems. Fill a clean sink with cold water. Place the greens in water and swish around, allowing the grit to fall to the bottom the sink. Lift greens out of the sink and transfer to a large bowl and rinse the sink. Repeat the process at least three times or more as needed until no grit remains.
- 2 pounds assorted greens, such as collard, kale, mustard, or turnip
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 2 medium Vidalia onions, chopped
- 2 cups water
- 1/2 pound hog jowl or fat back, sliced
- Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the oil in a large pot over medium high heat. Add the onions and cook until golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the water and hog jowl and bring to a boil, gradually stir in the greens, allowing each batch to wilt before adding more; season with salt and pepper.
Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Cook, until greens are tender, stirring occasionally, about 60 minutes. Taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Using a slotted spoon, transfer greens to a serving dish.
Spicy Collards with Smoked Turkey - Not Meme's greens! Recipe by Virginia Willis Serves 8
- 5 pounds assorted greens, such as collard, kale, mustard or turnip
- 2 medium Vidalia onions, chopped
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 2 jalapeno peppers, seeded and minced
- 1 smoked turkey leg, about 1 1/2 pounds
- Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Fill a clean sink with cold water. Tear greens into large pieces and place in water to soak. Lift greens out of the sink and transfer to a large bowl, allowing grit to fall to the bottom the sink, rinse sink. Repeat process at least three times or more as needed.
Using a large pot over high heat, combine onions, oil, jalapeno and 2 cups water. Bring to a boil, gradually stir in the greens, allowing each batch to wilt before adding more. Add the turkey leg and cover with greens, season with salt and pepper.
Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Cook, until greens are tender, stirring occasionally, about 30 minutes, being careful not to over cook. Remove the turkey leg, cool slightly and remove meat from leg. Dice meat and add to greens. Using a slotted spoon, transfer greens to a serving dish. About Virginia Willis
 Virginia Willis is a French-trained chef, television producer, food stylist, cooking teacher and food writer. Formerly Martha Stewart Living's kitchen manager. She is the author of the wildly popular, Bon Appetit Y'all, and is currently working on her second book. She makes her home in Atlanta, Georgia.
Disclosure: Samples of products discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or manufacturers.
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