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The Importance of Being Irish

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Written by Jeannette Ferrary   
Tuesday, 16 March 2010

ImageI consider myself fortunate indeed to be half Irish. For one thing, this background provided me, in one short childhood, with enough Irish cooking to last me the rest of my life. My mother made all our meals, day in and day out, morning, noon and night, week after week, year upon year. She never complained. We never complained. We never talked about it. What was the use?

She took inspiration from the fact that there were five of us, and we all had to eat every day, three times a day, no matter what. Her culinary style derived from an Irish childhood that included nine children, all of whom had also shown similar thrice-daily tendencies. Thanks to that background, she understood, in its most profound and urgent meanings, exactly what cooking was: it was her job.

By some sort of Irish osmosis, we knew instinctively, my brothers and I, exactly what food was all about. Food was to eat. You felt hungry. You went into the kitchen. You expressed the fact that you were hungry and received the appropriate response: Go play outside until supper is ready. What do you think this is? A restaurant?

Life isn't a restaurant. That was one of the Irish things we grew up knowing for sure. Even restaurants weren't restaurants, at least the ones we went to. Usually they were a lot like Woolworth's, with a few booths across from the counter, and they kept up the quality of their hot cheese sandwiches so you could think you were actually eating at home.

"They put out a good spread," my mother would say to her sister Mildred across the table, and both of them nodded with equal expertise. "And you can't beat the price," Mildred added who, though economy-minded, was a stickler for quality. "I see they use the real Velveeta," she'd remark approvingly, "and the thin-sliced baloney."
Thanks to these family-wide standards of excellence, my mother knew what she needed to know without wasting time clipping recipes and searching through cookbooks. She didn't need any advice on how to boil a cabbage to rags or to what degree of hardness one should bake a pork chop. This wisdom was inherent in the reality-based cookery which she'd inherited, and which protected her from being bamboozled into the culinary acrobatics of other taste-driven cuisines.  She understood the benefits of non-intimidating presentation, never once making us feel that something was too beautiful to eat. A bowl of succotash, she knew, was a bowl of succotash; it wasn't there to look at.

Nor was there any need for the unexpected; quite the contrary. The roast beef, the ham, the chicken, etc--once she'd organized the sequence of meals, it was immutable. And why not? Doesn't the human soul yearn for the phases of the moon, the inexorable cycles of life: the spaghetti, and then the hot dogs, and then the hamburgers. Nor were our taste buds ever assaulted by the shock of a spice. There was no necessity for dried or powdered herbs and even less for fresh.

She believed vegetables were essential, usually defrosting two different kinds per meal. We also had potatoes every night, except when we had sweet potatoes, which happened only twice a year. But even when we had sweet potatoes, we had real potatoes right alongside, just in case. After all, sometimes you're not in the mood for exotic potatoes. My mother understood the importance of variety every once in a while, as long as it didn't become a habit.

Mom's refreshing emphasis on no-frills cooking was easy to learn. Anyone who could boil water was already qualified, if not over trained. But boiling water was just the beginning. Putting something into the water was the next hurdle; and the real test was leaving it in too long. When cooking in this style, knowing when to stop was a disadvantage. What's done is done, we learned; and usually overdone.

Like all the other mothers in our Brooklyn neighborhood, my mother went to Bohacks, around the corner, for all her shopping needs. It was part and parcel of her belief in simplicity: you went to one store, you bought everything you needed in that store. If they didn't have it in Bohacks, as she used to say, who could have it? What's to have? Why drive halfway around the world for some crazy mustard that, when you find it, they charge you an arm and a leg? If you don't have mustard at home, use some catsup for one day. What's the difference?  There was one admissible exception to one-stop shopping, however, and that was Ebinger's Bakery. That was special partly because they wrapped everything up in a green box tied with red-striped string, and because they made Blackout Cake, but mostly because Ebinger's wasn't just around the corner. You had to go there on purpose.

Finally, Mom's cookery was a celebration of unrelenting naturalness. This was back to basics cooking, a return to original meanings. Perhaps nothing captures its nuances better than Archie Bunker's haunting question, years later, "What could be more natural than baloney?"

Irish Potatoes

You don't have to eat potatoes every day, but you could do worse. These are especially good when you're cooking a big roast of something, which you'd also be doing every day if you were really Irish.

  • 5 lbs russet potatoes (the oven's on anyway; why stint?)
  • salt and pepper
  • a roast already cooking in the oven

Cut the potatoes into quarters and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Arrange them around the roast about 2 hours before you're planning to take it out.

Baste the potatoes occasionally with the pan juices. Don't bother rummaging around the drawers for the baster you got for the turkey. Just use a spoon.

If the potatoes stick to the pan, pry them loose and sprinkle them with the sticky stuff. It's the best part.

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Jeannette Ferrary's latest book is Out of the Kitchen: Adventures of a Food Writer.  Author of the memoir/biography of M. F. K. Fisher and six cookbooks, she teaches food writing at Stanford and U. C. Berkeley extension.

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Last Updated ( Tuesday, 16 March 2010 )
 

Feeding the Famished O'Foodie

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Written by Peggy Fallon   
Thursday, 11 March 2010

ImageI received this assignment by default. Well, okay, maybe I sort of begged for it. St. Patrick's Day is the only time of year when my people take center stage. Both of my parents emigrated from Ireland in the 1920's, so my 5 siblings and I are first generation Americans and 100% Irish. Forget the stupid green beer, the "Kiss Me I'm Irish" buttons, the sappy music, dancing leprechauns, and spirited parades down rainy city streets. I just wanna eat (See my St. Patrick's Day menu below).

This is the day when everybody can be Irish. I can't blame all the poor unfortunates for climbing onto our bandwagon-it really is a wonderful heritage, if I do say so myself. Centuries of political oppression spawned a dark sense of humor that lives on to this day. Never mind our characteristic lack of height, predisposition toward freckles, and lifelong addiction to sunscreen. The Irish know how to party, and everybody wants a piece of the action on March 17.

Fifty years ago Irish cooking was little more than the punch line to a joke-a cuisine so scorned, it was ranked only slightly better than England's. Ireland was a poor country with a less-than-sunny climate, so its cooks merely played the hand they were dealt. Oh, the Irish enjoyed food-but no one else in the world was clamoring to eat their overcooked meat and mushy root vegetables. Salad? Huh? Dessert? How about some fruitcake? These choices weren't considered Spartan-it was just life.

My parents were a product of that era, so that is pretty much the food I grew up on. (Don't even get me started on dulse, my family's answer to Beluga caviar.) While other kids in our neighborhood popped strange tart-like things into the toaster and slurped their way through bowls of sugary American cereal, breakfast at our house was often crisp bacon and soft-boiled eggs (served in egg cups, of course), mopped up with Mom's raisin-studded Irish soda bread and washed down with steaming hot cups of tea- made kid-friendly with plenty of milk and sugar. In retrospect we were incredibly fortunate, though at the time friends viewed our meals as freakishly quaint.

A talent for making decent libations was about the only thing that earned the Irish a spot on the culinary map. Maybe this is why Americans invented their own misguided version of what Irish food should be: corned beef boiled-to-death with spuds and smelly cabbage. I suppose if you drank enough, you might even enjoy it.

But sometimes time heals all ills. A generation-or-two ago the economy of Ireland began to thrive. The young became well educated and well traveled, and suddenly a big ol' pot of greasy lamb stew was no longer the solution to every entertaining dilemma. Food magazines began to celebrate the natural bounty of Ireland-organically grown vegetables; artisan cheeses; free-range meats; and fish plucked from clean waters. Suddenly farmhouse cuisine was chic. Even soda bread got some respect. Irish chefs became sophisticated locovores, and their country has now become a destination for world-class food.

To celebrate this revolution (one of Ireland's more successful ones, I might add), I've scoured Project Foodie in search of recipes to explore your inner Irish…everything from the slightly tacky (boozy green milkshakes) to the sublime (roasted wild salmon with dill). Some recipes feature traditional fare; while others were selected merely for that irresistible touch of green. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, desserts, appetizers, and drinks-we've got 'em all. It's never been easier to decide how you want to roll on March 17.

ImageMy personal menu selections follow; but I encourage you to scan through the dozens (and dozens) of recipes I've tagged. At the top of the Project Foodie webpage, look beneath the Recipe Search box, and you'll see lots of "tag" topics written in red. Simply click on "St. Patrick's Day" (or click on the big green Shamrock) and wait for the fun to unfold.

A Cozy Dinner for Four

Beer-Battered Asparagus

Aunt Polly's Lamb Shanks

Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes 

Country Rhubarb Cake

Irish Coffee

Peggy Fallon's "Irish Potato" Candies

I am an absolute sucker for anything trompe l'oeil…the French term for "trick the eye." Every March for about as long as I can remember, a local premium candy maker has been selling "Irish potato" candies. The sight of them makes me squeal with delight, but the overly sweet flavor of the marshmallowy confection is always a disappointment. Now I make my own bite-size spuds, using a basic chocolate truffle recipe-such as the following-spiked with an Irish liqueur or whiskey. Instead of forming into balls, I  roll the mixture into small, irregular ovals that resemble tiny fingerling potatoes; then roll them in a blend of sweet ground chocolate and cocoa powder, such as Ghirardelli brand. (I think its lighter color makes better "dirt" than plain unsweetened cocoa powder.) For the final touch, I insert a couple of randomly-spaced toasted pine nuts into each truffle to resemble sprouting eyes. Too cute…and perfectly yummy. PF


Beer-Battered Asparagus

(Gourmet, March, 2005)

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Aunt Polly’s Lamb Shanks

(Saveur, March, 1999)

Tender, fall-off-the-bone lamb, slow-roasted vegtables, and a sprinkling of mint combine in a dish that easily serves as a meal.
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Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes

(Everyday Food, September, 2006)

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Country Rhubarb Cake

(Gourmet, March, 2004)

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Irish Coffee

(Martha Stewart Living, March, 2009)

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Chocolate Truffles

(Sunset, February, 2002)

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Comments:

On March 7, 2010, 2:02 pm peggy said:

For a wonderful St. Patrick's Day treat, flavor these with your favorite Irish liqueur or whiskey.


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Last Updated ( Thursday, 11 March 2010 )
 

Spice & Ice Virtual Cocktail Party

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Written by Heather Jones   
Tuesday, 02 March 2010

ImageI recently had the opportunity to attend a phenomenal food writers conference in New York City where I listened to a panel on wine & spirits writing that featured cookbook author Kara Newman. Although I was remiss in introducing myself to Ms. Newman I did have an opportunity to check out her recently released book Spice & Ice and was thrilled to hear that she was going to be holding a “Virtual Cocktail Party”. 

The party commences on Wednesday, March 3rd with several bloggers and food writers recalling their experiences making one of the fun drinks from Kara’s book.  My real life cocktail for the virtual party included an entire brunch centering on the Red Dawn cocktail (see recipe below). 

This drink is not your mother’s Bloody Mary, all of the cocktails in Kara's book focus on the “spice” element, spicy savory flavors instead of sweet and this one is no exception.  The Red Dawn cocktail gives you the familiar flavor profile that you love in a Bloody Mary and it's frightfully easy to make. One ingredient that pulls it all together is Harissa.  Harissa is a Moroccan chili paste whose components easily replace the traditional tabasco, lemon juice, worcestershire, and celery salt combination that is normally found in a Bloody Mary. 

But please do not take my word for it.  You’ve got to try this drink for yourself. 

I've also listed a few brunch recipes below that are the perfect compliment to the Red Dawn.

Red Dawn

Spice & Ice by Kara Newman, Chronicle Books 2009.

Yield: 1 drink

While this makes a fabulous brunch drink (hence the name), and it’s less work than a traditional Bloody Mary, enjoy this harissa-spiked libation any time of day. Harissa is a Tunisian hot sauce or paste made with smoked chile peppers, garlic, olive oil, and spices like cumin or coriander. (Get harissa in a tube for longest shelf life). Masochist alert: double the amount of harissa if you dare!

2 ounces Citron-infused vodka
4 ounces Tomato juice
1/2 teaspoon Harissa
Lemon wedge, for garnish

Combine first three ingredients in a glass filled with ice, and garnish with lemon wedge.


Brunch recipes that pair well with the Red Dawn


Savory French Toast

(Martha Stewart Living, April, 2001)

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Winter Fruit Salad With Star Anise

(La Cucina Italiana, December, 2007)

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Crab Eggs Benedict

(Sunset, December, 2006)

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Last Updated ( Monday, 01 March 2010 )
 

My Foodie Valentine

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Written by Peggy Fallon   
Monday, 08 February 2010

ImageContrary to what jewelry ads might lead to you believe, Valentine's Day is whatever you want it to be. For young children it's all about scoring as many Valentines as possible - with the prospect of a little chocolate thrown in for added incentive. Typical teenage fantasies require nothing less than romantic overtures from a secret crush. For some adults it's a time to paint the town red…literally. But for most of us, Valentine's Day is a welcome break from the doldrums of winter. Regardless of the weather, we are reminded of the promise of spring and all the sweet times ahead.

No self-respecting foodie can let this day pass without cooking at least something. Whether it's a single batch of brownies or a full-blown meal, it's time to spread the love. Years ago when preparing for a Valentine dinner party I would do slightly manic things like whittle away at whole carrots, forming notches so the resulting slices were heart-shaped. (Oh yes I did.) No doily was left unturned; no vase unfilled. It was the Super Bowl of Precious. Fortunately I got over this, but I still keep a few tricks up my sleeve.

When dining à deux, it's a good idea to ease off on garlic, raw onions, beans, or other foods that might trigger a less-than-romantic reaction. And unless you have been fully briefed on your lover's medical status, don't make anything with peanuts, shellfish, or other ingredients known to aggravate allergies. (Hospital emergency rooms are rarely conducive to romance.) A big platter of spaghetti may have ignited a spark for Lady and the Tramp, but unless you have the willpower to limit yourself to small portions it's best to avoid a heavy meal that will leave both of you feeling sluggish…if you catch my drift.

No special someone in your life? Quit your moping and think again. Anyone who has ever improved the quality of your everyday life - be it a best friend, librarian, or auto mechanic - deserves some sweet gratitude. Explore your inner Martha (and search Project Foodie for recipes, of course) to come up with a little something delicious to lift your spirits as well as the recipient's.

Make this day a special one, even if you're dining alone. (Consider the bright side: a flannel nightgown and fuzzy slippers are a heck of a lot more comfortable than scratchy lingerie and stilettos.) And this year's Valentine's Day coincides with the beginning of the Chinese New Year celebration; so if all else fails, order take-out. 

For those motivated to cook their little hearts out, however, here are a few menus to get those juices flowing.

Breakfast in Bed with the one you love

Rosé Champagne, sparkling wine, or fruit juice

Scrambled Eggs with Herbed Croutons - Assuming there will only be two of you in bed (!), cut this recipe in half.


Scrambled Eggs With Herbed Croutons

(Food & Wine, October, 2008)

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Grilled Ham Steak With Peppered Peach Glaze - Instead of grilling outdoors, cook the ham on a stovetop grill pan, or under the broiler, watching carefully.

Grilled Ham Steak With Peppered Peach Glaze

(Bon Appétit, August, 1996)

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Fresh Strawberries

Milk Chocolate Pudding - When it comes to chocolate I usually travel to the dark side; but I make an exception for this pudding. The secret to success is best-quality milk chocolate-don't try to make-do with a candy bar from the office vending machine. (You only need 4 ounces, so you can afford to splurge.) Make the full recipe-if things go according to plan, you'll want leftovers for later.


Milk Chocolate Pudding

(Gourmet, February, 2007)

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Brunch with Foodie Friends

Dates With Bacon - Here's one way to ensure that everyone has a date on Valentine's Day.

Dates with Bacon

(Sunset, July, 2006)

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Campari, Grapefruit & Pomegranate Cocktail

Campari, Grapefruit & Pomegranate Cocktail

(EatingWell, May/June, 2008)

Balance herbaceous Campari with the sweet-tart flavors of pomegranate and grapefruit. This dusty pink drink looks festive in a stemmed wineglass with a twist of orange zest. For a slightly sweeter drink, use orange juice instead of grapefruit. To make a nonalcoholic version, omit the Campari and add an extra 1/3 cup of each juice.
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Cinnamon-Raisin Bread Custard With Fresh Berries


Cinnamon-Raisin Bread Custard With Fresh Berries

(Food & Wine, September, 2008)

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Golden Sausages and Shallots in White Wine


Golden Sausages and Shallots in White Wine

(Food & Wine, March, 2002)

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Double-Chocolate Bundt Cake with Ganache Glaze

Double-Chocolate Bundt Cake with Ganache Glaze

(Food & Wine, November, 2006)

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A Romantic Dinner for Two

"Red Hot" Beet Salad with Goat Cheese Toasts  - Since you need only two servings, it makes sense to cut the recipe (and your work) in half. And do find a way to work the name of the recipe into the conversation!

"Red Hot" Beet Salad with Goat Cheese Toasts

(Food & Wine, August, 2002)

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Herb-Crusted Rack of Lamb


Herb-Crusted Rack Of Lamb

(Bon Appétit, February, 2003)

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Roasted Baby Potatoes with Capers and Rosemary - This potato recipe makes more than is needed for two. (Even for an Irish person like me.) I suggest dividing the recipe into thirds, using 1 pound of potatoes, 5 teaspoons oil, 1 sprig of rosemary, 1 garlic clove, 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, and 1 tablespoon capers.

Roasted Baby Potatoes with Capers and Rosemary

(Bon Appétit, April, 2006)

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Prosciutto Tied Asparagus - Vegetables in bondage: a little something to amuse the cook. Cut this recipe in half, if you like, or make the full recipe and serve the leftovers cold the next day, drizzled with a light vinaigrette.


Prosciutto Tied Asparagus

(Semi-Homemade Cooking With Sandra Lee, Episode: Daffodil Parade, Season: 9)

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Chocolate Fondue with Candied Orange Peel, Raspberries, and Almond Macaroons 

Chocolate Fondue With Candied Orange Peel, Raspberries, And Almond Macaroons

(Gourmet, February, 2007)

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Last Updated ( Sunday, 07 February 2010 )
 

Valentine's Day: Recipes for Baking Love

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Written by foodie pam   
Saturday, 06 February 2010

ImageHow do foodies say I love you? 

I bake. Be it Valentine's Day, a birthday or ground hog day - I bake sinfully delicious treats.  It's a tradition I started when I baked my way to my husband's heart with gooey, chocolate brownies even before our first date. 

These days his expectations are a bit higher than mere brownies. Fueled by many years of truly decadent Valentine's Day delights he expects grander and grander choices each year.  While I am planing on learning even better candy making skills, hopefully these delicious, truffles will make the grade this Valentine's Day. 


ImageTo help with your love baking we've scoured the Project Foodie recipe box to find Valentine's recipes and tagged them valentines-day. You'll find recipes ranging from breakfast, to drinks, to romantic mains, but the largest category is Valentine's Day desserts with over 100 recipes.  

Clearly, I'm not the only foodie out there baking love.  Baking, especially baking with chocolate, is one of the top ways foodies say I love you. Folklore has it that chocolate is an aphrodisiac, and although modern science wants to put out that flame who can deny that when you get a piece of chocolate decadence from your love it doesn't light you up?  

To help you weed through the chocolate love, below is my selection of favorite chocolate recipes for Valentine's Day.

And if you're looking for a bit more than recipes Better Homes & Gardens offers up party planning and romantic meal ideas, Southern Living not only has romantic menus, but romantic getaways too, and Real Simple has some neat gift ideas.  Not to be outdone by the magazines, the Food Network has Tim Allen posing as cupid dishing out romantic drink and dessert ideas.  And last, by not least, the queen of all things, Martha Stewart, has some great Valentine's Day gifts and crafts. 


Favorite Valentine's Day Treats


Simple Chocolate Truffles

(Absolutely Chocolate by the Editors of Fine Cooking, 2009)

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Brownie Heart Cupcakes

(Martha Stewart Living, February, 2009)

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Chocolate Eclair Hearts

(Martha Stewart Living, February, 2007)

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Milk Chocolate Soufflés With Nougat Whip

(Bon Appétit, February, 2010)

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On February 19, 2010, 4:32 pm spm said:

This is made easier thanks to the steps at the back if the issue. Everyone should attempt a soufflé at least once.



Angel's Heart Cookies

(Sunset, February, 2000)

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Last Updated ( Friday, 05 February 2010 )
 
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