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PEGGY FALLON

Feeding the Famished O'Foodie

I received this assignment by default. Well, okay, maybe I sort of begged for it. St. Patrick's Day is the only time of year when my people take center...

FOODIE PAM

What's Cooking March, 2010

While it may not seem like Spring yet, the official start of Spring is just a few weeks away.  For the March magazines, the transition from winter to spring...

SOPHIA MARKOULAKIS

In Season: Cauliflower

Tracking enthusiasm and disdain for cauliflower is like watching a cable news channel's election night blue and red map-divisive and often unpredictable. Love it or hate it, cauliflower generates...

HEATHER JONES

Do you know any vegetarians? Of course you do.  There's your temperamental teen-age niece, boomer parents, or in my case a four-year old who leans towards vegetarian eating habits...

About Sophia Markoulakis

Sophia Markoulakis is a Sacramento girl who grew up diving after just-picked fruit on hot summer days. She met her husband at UC Berkeley, where she graduated in English Lit and Classical Civilizations, and moved across the Bay to raise a family. Along the way she graduated from the California Culinary Academy, developed two neighborhood grocery stores with her husband, and has freelanced for many years at Sunset Publishing and the San Francisco Chronicle. She also is the creator of the lemons4all blog.



Sophia's Articles


In Season: Cauliflower

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Written by Sophia Markoulakis   
Saturday, 13 March 2010

ImageTracking enthusiasm and disdain for cauliflower is like watching a cable news channel's election night blue and red map-divisive and often unpredictable. Love it or hate it, cauliflower generates some heat. I happen to love it and would love to see it incorporated into more recipes (see below for a selection of recipes to try), either raw or roasted.

As a member of the cruciferous family, cauliflower does share a few familial characteristics with broccoli and cabbage. But roasting as opposed to steaming or boiling mitigates some of those unpleasant flavors and smells. Shaving cauliflower and enjoying it raw is another way to lessen the cabbage-like flavor while still getting the full health benefits of this nutritionally packed vegetable.

One cup of cauliflower provides almost a full serving of Vitamin C in addition to a good amount of Vitamin A, folate and fiber. If you come across any of the colored cauliflower, grab some because they have additional nutrients not found in the white version.

Some claim that colored cauliflower has a nuttier flavor and a softer curd than white. Decide for yourself with any of the colors below:

  • * Green cauliflower has the same nutritional properties as white cauliflower with chlorophyll bred with the white
  • * Orange cauliflower has high amounts of beta-carotene
  • * Purple cauliflower has anthocyanins (the compound found in red wine and red cabbage)

Thinly sliced or shaved raw cauliflower can be transformed into all types of salads when mixed with various lettuces and other greens such as endive and radicchio. Add proteins such as legumes, cheese and nuts and you've got a healthy meal. Cauliflower can also be incorporated into pasta, rice, and grain dishes, added at the last minute, either tossed when the rice or grain is still hot or added to the pasta right before draining. Shaved cauliflower on top of pizza and focaccia is also a great way to use it raw, allowing the edges to caramelize in the few minutes that the dish is in the oven.

ImageRoasting cauliflower is another cooking method that sidetracks the effects of steaming, creating a nutty sweet morsel. Once small florets are cut from the main head, they can be tossed in any type of oil and seasoned with spices and herbs. Allums such as garlic and onions can be added for additional flavor and mixed in as well. You can even add cauliflower florets to any cut of roast, especially when already surrounded by potatoes or root vegetables.

Today's cauliflower recipes have progressed from simply boiling it to death or covering it with melted cheese, but we've still got a ways to go. There are plenty of rich and decadent gratins and casseroles in this month's list of cauliflower recipes to satisfy those self-proclaimed cauliflower haters, but there are also other recipes that apply the roasted and raw method. Test them out on yourself or others who claim disdain for this versatile vegetable. Your kitchen might turn out to be a swing state.

Recipes to try

Salads and Soups

Marinated Cauliflower, Olive, and Arugula Salad is piquant and layered with the flavors of fresh greens and pickled cauliflower.


Marinated Cauliflower, Olive, and Arugula Salad

(Bon Appétit, November, 2003)

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Roasted Cauliflower and Radicchio Salad pairs sweet and nutty cauliflower with the bitterness of radicchio, dressed in a simple vinaigrette.


Roasted Cauliflower And Radicchio Salad

(Gourmet, November, 2004)

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Cauliflower Bisque with Buttered Breadcrumbs is pure cauliflower with the addition of creamy goat cheese.


Cauliflower Bisque with Buttered Breadcrumbs

(Love Soup by Anna Thomas, 2009)

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Cauliflower Soup with Seared Scallops, Lemon Oil, and American Caviar is not as complicated as it sounds, pairing a straightforward pureed soup with the richness of seared scallops.


Cauliflower Soup with Seared Scallops, Lemon Oil, and American Caviar

(Bon Appétit, October, 2006)

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Eggs and Tarts

Cauliflower and Feta Omelet makes a great power breakfast treat, especially with prepped cauliflower on hand.


Cauliflower And Feta Omelet

(Gourmet, February, 2008)

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Scrambled Eggs (with Cauliflower) uses cauliflower puree, disguising this healthy vegetable for little ones.


Scrambled Eggs (with Cauliflower)

(Deceptively Delicious by Jessica Seinfeld, 2007)

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Cauliflower and Caramelized Onion Tart is perfectly sweet and nutty thanks to the caramelized onions and mascarpone cheese.


Cauliflower and Caramelized Onion Tart

(Bon Appétit, March, 2007)

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Gratins and Sides

Cauliflower and Bacon Gratin would be perfect for brunch or dinner.


Cauliflower And Bacon Gratin

(Giada At Home, Episode: Food And Fun, Season: 1)

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Cauliflower Gratin with Manchego and Almond Sauce is a delicious way to incorporate almonds in a side dish.


Cauliflower Gratin with Manchego and Almond Sauce

(Food & Wine, February, 2005)

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Cauliflower and Couscous Pilaf has Moroccan flavors and would be great served with roasted game hens.


Cauliflower & Couscous Pilaf

(EatingWell, January/February, 2008)

Pilaf is usually made with rice plus nuts, fruit, vegetables or even meat. In this version we use couscous instead of rice, so it’s nearly instant, and add a sweet accent of orange and currants.
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Caramelized Green Cauliflower Saute has sweet-savory flavors thanks to chili sauce and honey.


Caramelized Green Cauliflower Sauté

(Monterey County Herald, February, 2009)

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Brown Butter Cauliflower Mash is decadently rich but so worth it.


Brown Butter Cauliflower Mash

(Southern Living, October, 2008)

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Balsamic and Parmesan Roasted Cauliflower is whipped together in minutes and can be prepared while the main dish is cooking on the stovetop.


Balsamic & Parmesan Roasted Cauliflower

(EatingWell, January/February, 2008)

Roast cauliflower for a sweet and nutty result. Slicing the cauliflower provides a good flat surface that browns wherever it comes into contact with the roasting pan.
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Pastas

Baked Ziti with Cauliflower: Ziti Gratinati has classic Italian flavors like anchovies and pine nuts.


Baked Ziti With Cauliflower: Ziti Gratinati

(Molto Mario, Episode: Siracusa Trattoria, Season: 9)

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Farfalle with Cauliflower and Turkey Sausage is a great weeknight dish, roasting the cauliflower and sausage in the oven together.


Farfalle With Cauliflower And Turkey Sausage

(Cooking Light, December, 2008)

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Pasta with Cauliflower, Peppers, and Walnut Pesto is great since the pesto recipe can be doubled and frozen for the next time you prepare the dish.


Pasta With Cauliflower, Peppers And Walnut Pesto

(Food & Wine, September, 2008)

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Penne with Cauliflower, Bacon, and Creamy Tomato Sauce makes the unique pairing of cauliflower and tomato.


Penne with Cauliflower, Bacon and Creamy Tomato Sauce

(Food & Wine, March, 2003)

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Main Dishes

Chicken with Cauliflower and Parsley is a fast one-skillet meal.


Chicken With Cauliflower And Parsley

(Everyday Food, December, 2009)

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Chickpea and Cauliflower Curry is one of those "wow" recipes, using whole spices, dried chickpeas, and okra.


Chickpea And Cauliflower Curry

(Food Network Magazine, January/February, 2010)

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Lamb Chops with Cauliflower and Raisins uses one skillet, making it a fast meal prepared on the stovetop.


Lamb Chops with Cauliflower and Raisins

(Real Simple, November, 2008)

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Split Pea-Spinach Dal with Cauliflower is a great vegetarian dish with classic Indian flavors.


Split Pea-Spinach Dal with Cauliflower

(Cooking Light, April, 2003)

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Last Updated ( Tuesday, 09 March 2010 )
 

In-Season: Swiss Chard

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Written by Sophia Markoulakis   
Monday, 15 February 2010

ImageI love Swiss chard. Granted, it's usually swimming in fragrant green olive oil and tart fresh lemon juice. When I was young, we would fight over the last remains floating at the bottom of the bowl and slurp them up, mouth against bowl, dressing and all.

Yet, for someone so involved in food, I admit I'm stuck in a Swiss chard rut. I tend to treat all healthy greens the same, with that same childhood olive oil and lemon dressing. But I have vowed to try some new recipe ideas, such as those below, to help break me out of my rut including techniques such as sautéing with new flavors and incorporating Swiss chard into other dishes like ravioli and lasagna. Swiss chard, more that any other green, can be added to dishes without altering the finished dish's flavor. Tender and sweet, Swiss chard should be everyone's go-to green.

For the lucky ones, Swiss chard is available year round. For others, it's a late winter-spring vegetable that can reappear in the summer, if it's not too warm. Red and green chard seem to be the norm, but baby rainbow chard often makes an appearance at farmers markets, and when it does, it's a beautiful vegetable to use raw in salads. Colors seem to fade when heat is applied so enjoy the rainbow effect of chard as bedding for proteins like chicken or fish, allowing the heat from the protein to slightly wilt the sweet little leaves.

Nutritionally, Swiss chard is packed with vitamins A and K, minerals, and antioxidants, including lutein. Recent studies have found that lutein may prevent macular degeneration, the leading cause of blindness among the elderly. The dietary rule of "the darker the green, the healthier the green" also applies to Swiss chard. That being said, green chard is a bit sweeter than red chard. Really, it's more important to pick a fresh bunch of chard, regardless of its color over an old, wilted bunch that might have lost some of its nutrients.

Prepping Swiss Chard


Large quantities of Swiss chard are best kept wrapped loose in a plastic bag, unwashed and dry. Bunches can be stored this way for up to a week in the fridge. Once you decide to clean and use the chard, give it a good bath in a tub or bowl of water, changing the water until it is free from dirt and debris. Thoroughly dry and wrap in a damp paper towel or dish towel, place in a plastic bag and store in the fridge for up to three days.

Now that your Swiss chard is clean, you can prep it further by separating the stalk from the leaves. Fold the leaf in half and cut the leaf away from the stalk. Do this with all of the larger leaves. Prep further by stacking the leaves and cutting thin strips crosswise. You can also chop the stalks and use them like you would celery in salads and soups. When it's time to add Swiss chard to any recipe or when you're looking the fridge for a last-minute vegetable to go with dinner, you'll have a lovely chiffonade of Swiss chard ready to sauté with olive oil, salt and pepper, and garlic.

Most of this month's selection of recipes uses prepped Swiss chard in fast weeknight meals. And most of those selections are timely with our wintry weather, but really should be considered any time of the year as we all try to bring Swiss chard out into the forefront.

Here are some enticing Swiss Chard recipes to try...

Appetizers and Soups

Bruschetta with Swiss Chard, Pine Nuts, and Currants takes the classic Italian approach of mixing Swiss chard with sweet and savory flavors.


Bruschetta with Swiss Chard, Pine Nuts and Currants

(Bon Appétit, February, 1999)

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On February 19, 2010, 4:42 pm spm said:

This takes the classic Italian approach of mixing Swiss chard with sweet and savory flavors.




Barley and Lentil Soup with Swiss Chard is hearty, yet very quick and easy to make. With the combination of barley, Swiss chard, and lentils, there's a large amount of protein and fiber to fill you up.

Barley and Lentil Soup with Swiss Chard

(Bon Appétit, February, 2005)

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On February 19, 2010, 4:42 pm spm said:

This is hearty, yet very quick and easy to make. With the combination of barley, Swiss chard, and lentils, there's a large amount of protein and fiber to fill you up.




Pasta e Fagioli with Roasted Red Peppers and Swiss Chard is part soup, part stew and super satisfying on a cold night.

Pasta e Fagioli with Roasted Red Peppers and Swiss Chard

(Food & Wine, November, 2002)

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On February 19, 2010, 4:42 pm spm said:

This is part soup, part stew and super satisfying on a cold night.




Egg Dishes

Swiss Chard and Sausage Frittata is great for company or a large brunch gathering. It's also a great last-minute recipe since most of the ingredients are ones that we tend to have on hand.

Swiss Chard And Sausage Frittata

(Sunset, December, 2009)

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On February 19, 2010, 4:42 pm spm said:

This is great for company or a large brunch gathering. It's also a great last-minute recipe since most of the ingredients are ones that we tend to have on hand.




Leek and Swiss Chard Tart looks beautiful, pairing sweet leeks with equally sweet Swiss chard.

Leek and Swiss Chard Tart

(Bon Appétit, October, 1999)

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On February 19, 2010, 4:42 pm spm said:

This looks beautiful, pairing sweet leeks with equally sweet Swiss chard.




Frittata with Swiss Chard, Potatoes, and Fontina is similar to a Spanish torta with the addition of potatoes. Add a bit of cooked chorizo before putting it in the oven and you've got a complete meal.

Frittata with Swiss Chard, Potatoes, and Fontina

(Cooking Light, April, 2000)

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On December 23, 2008, 8:58 am pam said:

This was one of the best Frittata's I've ever made. And a perfect use for swiss chard. I wouldn't change a thing and will definitely be making this again.


On February 19, 2010, 4:43 pm spm said:

This is similar to a Spanish torta with the addition of potatoes. Add a bit of cooked chorizo before putting it in the oven and you've got a complete meal




Pasta Dishes


Swiss Chard Ravioli with Quick Tomato Sauce
uses Swiss chard as a stuffing ingredient with pine nuts and golden raisins.

Swiss Chard Ravioli With Quick Tomato Sauce

(Gourmet, February, 1997)

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On February 19, 2010, 4:43 pm spm said:

This uses Swiss chard as a stuffing ingredient with pine nuts and golden raisins.




Swiss Chard Ricotta Gnudi with Fall Mushrooms is basically Swiss chard gnocchi. These tender morsels can also be prepared and frozen before cooking.

Swiss Chard Ricotta Gnudi With Fall Mushrooms

(Bon Appétit, October, 2009)

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On February 19, 2010, 4:43 pm spm said:

This is basically Swiss chard gnocchi. These tender morsels can also be prepared and frozen before cooking.




Orecchiette with Artichokes and Swiss Chard uses canned water-packed artichokes, making it a great dish for a weeknight meal. The addition of goat cheese ties the flavor of the artichokes and Swiss chard together.

Orecchiette With Artichokes and Swiss Chard

(Health, March, 2006)

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