TEAM PROJECT FOODIE
What's Cooking November 2009? This month's "What's Cooking" is special - November marks the beginning of the holiday cooking frenzy. Sadly, this month is also special because it brings the last issue of... |
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PEGGY FALLON
Gather Entertaining cookbooks abound, but this one by veteran food pro Georgeanne Brennan stands out from the rest-a refreshing blend of practicality and style. The chapters are first divided into seasons-which... |
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SOPHIA MARKOULAKIS
In Season: Heirloom Apples variety choices and recipes to try Apples are some of the most adaptable fruits in nature and in the kitchen. Throughout their lengthy history, the apple has reinvented itself several times over, often overcoming... |
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HEATHER JONES
I have always loved Bread; I was one of those kids who would happily walk around the house eating it by the slice, but it would be many years... |
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HEATHER JONES
Frugal Foodie - A Very Frugal Thanksgiving For some, the idea of entertaining is positively frightening, especially during the Holiday season. Once you have the guest list put together, you develop your menu, write up that... |
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VIRGINIA WILLIS 
Thanksgiving Favorites: Don't Mess with the Mess Written by Virginia Willis Turkey is a given. Some families may experiment with some other form of roast beast for Christmas, but in our family,... |
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About Sophia Markoulakis Sophia Markoulakis is a Sacramento girl who grew up diving after just-picked fruit on hot summer days. She met her husband at UC Berkeley, where she graduated in English Lit and Classical Civilizations, and moved across the Bay to raise a family. Along the way she graduated from the California Culinary Academy, developed two neighborhood grocery stores with her husband, and has freelanced for many years at Sunset Publishing and the San Francisco Chronicle. She also is the creator of the lemons4all blog.
Sophia's Articles
In Season: Heirloom Apples variety choices and recipes to try |
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Written by Sophia Markoulakis
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Tuesday, 10 November 2009 |
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 Apples are some of the most adaptable fruits in nature and in the kitchen. Throughout their lengthy history, the apple has reinvented itself several times over, often overcoming the threat of extinction. Today, heirloom apples are experiencing a renaissance as consumers discover that there's more to an apple than dull uniformity and one-dimensional sweetness. And like all things in life, it's the balance of characteristics or flavors that makes an item desirable or delicious. Michael Pollan's non-fiction book, The Botany of Desire, and recently released documentary profiles the apple and its centuries-old journey from the remote and mountainous regions of central Asia to the hard cider rage of the late 18th and early 19th century to the monoculture decline of the 20th century to its current resurgence as a fruit to foster and save from disappearing altogether. This past fall, Slow Food USA launched a nationwide scavenger hunt and campaign to save endangered apple varieties. The organization, along with RAFT (Renewing America's Food Traditions), which is managed by Slow Food USA, asked consumers and community members to discover, collect cuttings, graft, and educate their local community on the importance of saving the heirloom apple. So what's all the fuss about a tart, easily bruised, misshaped apple? Well, it goes back to our desire to crave something perfect like the apple, yet still be drawn to the romance of a fruit being unique and unusual. Now that we have grown tired of the half dozen perfected varieties of apples that saturated the market for the last thirty years, we're discovering and celebrating the complexities of an heirloom apple and appreciating their journey. Apples with names like ‘Ashmead's Kernal', ‘Cox Orange Pippin', and ‘Orleans Reinette' speak to their relevance in American history. A delicious heirloom apple has retained its intricacies over the years and provides flavor nuances such as musk, butterscotch, lemon, and spice that conventional and over-bred apples just can't match. Yes, there is a gamble when selecting an heirloom. It might be overripe, soft in spots, have tough skin, or be overly tart, but perfection usually ends up being overrated anyway. Very few heirlooms have made it into mainstream markets. Most are discovered at farmers' markets and independent grocers. Some heirlooms to look for include: Ashmead's Kernal: an old English variety with russetted skin and an intense sweet-tart flavor. It's a good storage apple that works well in all cooked desserts. Baldwin: A variety from Massachusetts, dating back to 1750. It's got spicy flavors with thick skin and yellow flesh. Use it in pie or cider. Laxton's Fortune: A cross between ‘Cox's Orange Pippin' and ‘Wealthy'. It's an early 20th century variety with crisp and juicy flesh. Pink Pearl: A novel looking variety with pink flesh and tart flavor, and is great for cooking. Esopus Spitzenburg: A favorite of Thomas Jefferson and a parent of the ‘Johnathan'. Its skin is red-orange and has fragrant crisp-sweet flesh. Winter Banana: A large specimen with waxy yellow and red-blushed skin and musky sweet flavor that works cooked and uncooked in recipes. When cooking with heirlooms, consider the weight and texture before incorporating in recipes. Apples that feel lightweight won't hold their shape when cooked and should be used raw in recipes. Overly tart apples work great in recipes that call for a lot of sugar or other sweet flavoring. Sweet-tasting apples work well in savory dishes. And firm-fleshed apples are going to work in both raw and cooked recipes. These are more cooking guidelines, not flavor guidelines. If you find an heirloom variety that you love, then have fun experimenting with them in the following recipes. Just make sure that the heirloom's texture matches the recipe's suggested apple texture. This month's selection of recipes is geared towards the holidays. Almost all of them could be served as part of a holiday meal. Check out Michael Pollan's book or learn about heritage apples from Slow Food USA and educate guests while they enjoy one of these dishes. Salads
- Arugula Salad with Manchego, Apples, and Caramelized Walnuts could easily be deconstructed and turned into a first course cheese plate. Save the walnut recipe and make them as holiday gifts.
| | |   | Arugula Salad with Manchego, Apples, and Caramelized Walnuts | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Red and Napa Cabbage Salad with Braeburn Apples and Spiced Pecans combines healthy cabbage and apples in a crunchy flavorful salad.
| | | | | Red and Napa Cabbage Salad with Braeburn Apples and Spiced Pecans | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Smoked Trout Salad with Apples and Pecans is a bit time consuming since it requires smoking the trout. If short on time, purchased smoked trout or other white fish at your local deli.
| | | | | Smoked Trout Salad with Apples and Pecans | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Soups and Sides - Whole-Grain Stuffing with Apples, Sausage and Pecans is a great holiday recipe that's fairly simple and bound to be a favorite.
| | | | | Whole-Grain Stuffing With Apples, Sausage And Pecans | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Root Vegetable Pan Roast with Chestnuts and Apples is a great vegetarian dish with meaty chestnuts taking the place of a protein.
| | | | | Root Vegetable Pan Roast with Chestnuts and Apples | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Roast Butternut Squash Soup with Apples and Garam Masala is deceptively rich with very little fat.{pfRecipe full}
Main Course Meals
- Lamb Curry with Apples uses an inexpensive cut of lamb with exotic flavors and is perfect as a comforting winter meal.
| | | | | Lamb Curry with Apples | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Chicken Normande with Mashed Apples and Potatoes is a make-ahead casserole that's perfect for a potluck.
| | | | | Chicken Normande with Mashed Apples and Potatoes | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Bacon-Wrapped Pork Loin with Roasted Apples is reminiscent of applewood-smoked bacon since it combines those two ingredients in this special-occasion dish.
| | | | | Bacon-Wrapped Pork Loin With Roasted Apples | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Apple-Sage Glazed Grilled Whole Turkey with Grilled Apples is great for those that like to grill year round.
| | | | | Apple-Sage Glazed Grilled Whole Turkey With Grilled Apples | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Molasses-Balsamic Pork Kabobs with Green Apples and Peppers is a great way to serve apples in a savory grilled dish.
| | | | | Molasses-Balsamic Pork Kabobs With Green Apples And Peppers | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Baked
- Baked Apples Stuffed with Dried Fruit and Pecans can be prepared hours before company arrives and baked while enjoying dinner.
| | | | | Baked Apples Stuffed With Dried Fruit And Pecans | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Baked Apples with Cranberry Molasses Bread Pudding is a great recipe for using up extra bread.
| | | | | Baked Apples With Cranberry Molasses Bread Pudding | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Baked Apples with Mexican Chocolate combines two unexpected ingredients in this Martha Stewart recipe.
| | | | | Baked Apples with Mexican Chocolate | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Desserts
- Autumn Trifle with Roasted Apples, Pears, and Pumpkin-Caramel Sauce is time consuming but nevertheless a showstopper for a special occasion.
| | | | | Autumn Trifle with Roasted Apples, Pears, and Pumpkin-Caramel Sauce | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Buckwheat Crepes with Sauteed Apples and Gruyere Cheese is classic northern France cooking with hearty buckwheat. Though not billed as a dessert, use it in place of an after-dinner cheese course.
| | | | | Buckwheat Crepes with Sautéed Apples and Gruyčre Cheese (Things Cooks Love by Sur La Table and Marie Simmons, 2008) | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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- Crostata with Apples, Walnuts and Gorgonzola also isn't a typical dessert, but is satisfying as an after-dinner ending.
| | | | | Crostata With Apples, Walnuts And Gorgonzola | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Last Updated ( Monday, 09 November 2009 )
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Written by Sophia Markoulakis
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Sunday, 11 October 2009 |
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 Figs are sexy. Actually figs are sex. Well, that is, according to Bunny Crumpacker's The Sex Life of Food: When Body and Soul Meet to Eat, who cites several fig euphemisms from different cultures. From the infamous fig leaf to Hindu and Arabic slang for the word, the fig is enveloped in sexual connotations. Cut a fig open and you'll see what I mean. Better yet, peel away the skin, from its stem end down to its base, take a big bite of its candy-sweet flesh and you get an instant rush of syrupy goodness.
But this sexual reference doesn't end with the fruit. It actually starts with the tree, which is capable of being bisexual, producing both male and female flowers. Unlike traditional fruit tree blossoms, the fig blossom develops from the outside in, enticing the tiny fig wasp to enter an opening at the base of each developing flower where either the male or female wasp wait for a mate to "pollinate" it and the flower. That's right, the inside of a developing fig is a love den for the fig wasp. These tiny, ant-size wasps are so important to the survival of the fig tree that one cannot co-exist with the other. In fact, each of the 900 or more species of fig wasp is perfectly paired with a unique species of fig tree.
But all of this business is long over by the time a fig has reached full maturity and is ready for harvest. If you happen to own a fig tree, then you know it's a mad competition between you and the birds. Even shopping for figs can be more a matter of strategy and luck since fig season is now and ending soon. In California, the Black Mission fig rules, but the yellowish green Kadota is also a favorite for its more delicate, floral flavor. Don't be surprised if you spy an unknown variety of fig in your area since there are hundreds of species, although most are not viable for commercial trade.
Since figs are highly perishable, they should be enjoyed immediately. All varieties should be treated the same from the time the come home to the recipes that you select. For storage and safe keeping:
- *Examine figs as soon as you bring them home. Separate over-ripe specimens and use immediately or discard.
- *Remove from basket and place, single layer, in a storage container, seal, and refrigerate for up to one week.
One of the first things you can do after inspecting your fig stash is to make a quick batch of fig jam with the ripe, bruised, or soft ones that need to be used immediately. September's issue of Food and Wine Magazine has a very simple refrigerator jam recipe that takes about 30 minutes and can simmer away while you prepare your other figs for storage. | | | | | Fig Jam | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Fresh figs can be frozen, but their texture will change and become softer regardless of whether they are frozen whole or in half. To freeze, wash and dry completely. Place on a cookie sheet and freeze until solid. Remove from sheet and store in a freezer bag and use within 6 months. Don't stress about freezing them if you don't have enough; dried figs make a great substitution for fresh figs in most slow-cooked recipes.
Even though fresh figs taste decadently sweet, they actually fall mid-range on the glycemic index and are full of fiber and moderate amounts of vitamin K and potassium. Try incorporating fresh figs into salad recipes, swapping out other fruit such as strawberries or plums for an autumn-like side dish. Figs also pair great with full-fat foods such as a double or triple cream cheese or veined cheese like Gorgonzola. Topping vanilla ice cream with sliced fresh figs and a shot of port or other fortified wine or liqueur is a simple and delicious ending to a fall meal.
Incorporating figs into recipes
This month's round of recipes really allows the fig to shine. Any heat applied to this luscious fruit just makes it all the more sweet and delicious.
Appetizers and SaladsFigs, Almonds, Greens and Cabrales Cheese from Joyce Goldstein's Mediterranean Fresh is a simple and beautiful salad that would be delicious and palate-cleansing, served after a rich, stewed dish. | | | | | Figs, Almonds, Greens and Cabrales Cheese | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Provence-Style Pearl Couscous with Figs from Vegetarian Times pairs this popular Israeli couscous with figs. Serve as part of a light lunch. | | | | | Provence-Style Pearl Couscous With Figs | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Warm Salad of Grilled Figs, Grapes, and Bitter Greens from Cooking Light shows great contrast between sweet figs and bitter endive and radicchio. This salad would be another great ending to a fall meal. | | | | | Warm Salad of Grilled Figs, Grapes, and Bitter Greens | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Figs and Prosciutto with Mint and Shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano from Cooking Light is a classic sweet and salty first course that stimulates the taste buds for the remaining meal. | | | | | Figs and Prosciutto with Mint and Shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Main DishesBraised Chicken Thighs with Figs and Bay Leaves from Cooking Light has herbaceous notes from the bay leaves, which tempers the sweetness of the figs. | | | | | Braised Chicken Thighs with Figs and Bay Leaves | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Egg Fettuccine with Figs, Rosemary, and Pancetta from Gourmet takes pasta and figs, two ingredients that you wouldn't think would go together, and creates a delicious and quick weeknight dish. | | | | | Egg Fettuccine With Figs, Rosemary, And Pancetta | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Lamb Chops with Fresh Herbs and Roasted Figs from Bon Appetit takes two full-flavored foods and blends them beautifully in a special dish. | | | | | Lamb Chops With Fresh Herbs And Roasted Figs | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Pork Cutlets with Figs and Balsamic Vinegar from Bon Appetit would be a great dish for guests who aren't familiar with fruit being incorporated into a main dish. | | | | | Pork Cutlets With Figs And Balsamic Vinegar | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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DessertsPanna Cotta with Figs from Martha Stewart is a great make-ahead dessert that will impress guests with simple components that come together beautifully. | | | | | Panna Cotta With Figs | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Fresh Figs with Goat Cheese and Peppered Honey from Bon Appetit demonstrates how an amazing recipe can be made with only four ingredients. | | | | | Fresh Figs with Goat Cheese and Peppered Honey | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Soy Milk-Arborio Rice Pudding with Poached Figs from Food and Wine could actually be enjoyed as dessert or breakfast. | | | | | Soy Milk–arborio Rice Pudding With Poached Figs | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Hazelnut-Brown Butter Cakes with Figs from Sunset make great use of the often under-utilized muffin pan. Serve with a favorite vanilla ice cream. | | | | | Hazelnut-Brown Butter Cakes with Figs | | My Rating: | View: | | More Actions: | | show notes hide notes | show tags hide tags | share hide share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Last Updated ( Saturday, 10 October 2009 )
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On November 7, 2009, 3:45 pm spm said:
Could easily be deconstructed and turned into a first course cheese plate. Save the walnut recipe and make them as holiday gifts.