Heirloom Tomato Panzanella

amazon.com

It's a Tuscan peasant dish through and through: stale bread moistened with juicy tomatoes and olive oil. But with a little tweaking--colorful heirloom tomatoes, haricot verts, ricotta salata--this citified panzanella is posh enough to serve to your well-heeled friends without reservation.

SERVES 4 TO 6

Croutons

• 1/2 loaf rustic Italian bread, cut into 1" cubes
• 6 garlic cloves, minced
• 3 tablespoons dried oregano
• 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Vinaigrette
• 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 1/2 cup red wine vinegar
• 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Salad

• 1 pound haricot verts
• 2 1/2 pounds (about 4 medium) assorted heirloom tomatoes, cored and each cut into 8 wedges
• 1 pound ricotta salata, shaved with a vegetable peeler
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup torn fresh basil leaves

TO MAKE THE CROUTONS: Preheat the oven to 300°F. Combine the bread, garlic, oregano, and olive oil in a large bowl and toss until the cubes are completely coated. Spread on a rimmed baking sheet in a single layer, season with salt and pepper, and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until golden brown. Set aside to cool.

TO MAKE THE VINAIGRETTE: Combine the mustard and vinegar in a small bowl. Whisk in the olive oil in a slow, steady stream. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

TO MAKE THE SALAD: Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Prepare an ice bath. Blanch the haricots verts in the boiling water for 2 to 6 minutes, or until barely tender, with a slightly firm bite still left to them. Drain the beans and transfer to the ice bath to chill quickly, then drain again and dry on paper towels. Cut each in half. Combine the haricots verts and tomatoes in a large bowl. Shave the ricotta salata into the bowl using the large holes of a box grater. Add the croutons and toss to combine thoroughly. Pour the vinaigrette over the salad and croutons and gently toss with wooden spoons. Season with sea salt and pepper. Transfer the salad to a serving bowl or platter, garnish with the basil, and serve.

Strawberry Semifreddo

From  Donatella Cooks by Donatella Arpaia. Rodale Books (2010).

Literally translated, semifreddo means "partially frozen." Its texture is achieved by incorporating air into the strawberries and cream mixture. It's simpler to make than ice cream, more intriguing than mousse, yet shares the best qualities of both. The beauty of semifreddo is that you can mold it in just about any container, from wax-coated paper cups (torn away before serving), a loaf pan (for slicing in slabs), or silicone muffin tins (for shaped desserts). If you chill it in a tub, you can scoop it straight from the container.

Tuaca is a golden liqueur made in Tuscany. It infuses the semifreddo with the subtle flavors of orange and vanilla.

SERVES 6 TO 8

YOU'LL NEED: loaf pan, food processor, electric mixer

• 4 cups strawberries, hulled, plus more for garnish
• 1/4 cup sugar
• 3 tablespoons Tuaca or Grand Marnier, optional
• 1 cup heavy cream
• Fresh mint, cut in thin strips, for garnish (optional)
  

LINE AN 8" OR 9" x 5" x 3" LOAF PAN, if using, with plastic wrap and set aside.

COMBINE THE STRAWBERRIES, sugar, and Tuaca in the bowl of a food processor and puree. Reserve 1 cup. Pour the remaining puree into a large bowl. Whip the cream in another bowl using an electric mixer until soft peaks form when you lift the beaters out of the bowl. Fold the cream into the puree using a rubber spatula, working from the bottom of the bowl, until there are no signs of cream. Pour the mixture into the loaf pan, cover with plastic wrap, and freeze until firm, about 2 hours.

INVERT THE SEMIFREDDO onto a serving plate. Remove the plastic wrap and, when slightly softened, smooth the top with a knife. Cut into 3/4"-to 1"-thick slices and garnish with the strawberries, mint, and some of the reserved puree drizzled on top.

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This season is flooded with cookbooks that celebrate fresh produce. We've seen a lot of them here at Project Foodie, and have already featured some of our favorites (here, here and here). It's easy to become jaded after a while and yawn off yet another publication, but Fast, Fresh & Green captured my attention.

For starters, this one is devoted solely to vegetable side dishes, the bane of many a mom. Author Susie Middleton is a former chef and current editor-at-large for Fine Cooking magazine—one of my favorites. Most importantly, however, she is an avid home cook who understands the daily challenge of serving meals that are quick, creative, and enticing. The ingredients she relies upon are available at nearly any well-stocked supermarket; and her recipes are easy enough for a weeknight family supper, yet flashy enough to serve guests.

Instead of the ubiquitous season-by-season format, the 90+ recipes are divided into 9 simplified cooking methods, such as Quick-Roasting, Quick-Braising, Hands-On Sautéing, and Walk-Away Sautéing. There's even a No Cooking chapter for lazy days, and a "bonus chapter" called Baking Gratins (with the sub-title "Slower but Worth It"). In fact, this book is as much about shopping, prepping, and mastering cooking techniques as it is about vegetables.

Follow the recipes as written and you won't be disappointed. But if you want to take it one step further, you'll be in for an eye-opening experience. Follow the author's advice and you'll stock up on pantry essentials (clearly outlined in the beginning of the book), and purchase a healthy variety of fresh veggies each week. Once these components are in place, the actual meal prep begins with your decision as to how you feel like cooking on that particular day. Is it a rushed evening that dictates a super-fast meal? Or do you have a little time to linger over a glass of wine as you cook? Maybe it's time to fire up the outdoor grill. You're the cook; you're in charge. Once you decide upon the cooking method, THEN you decide which veggies and seasonings best fit into your menu.

I have tried Ms. Middleton's approach over the past couple of weeks and found that it not only stimulates creativity, it is surprisingly liberating. The author takes the ho-hum out of dinner with dishes like Colorful Chinese Kick-Slaw; Happy Stir-Fry of Zucchini, Corn, and Peanuts; Sautéed Sugar Snap Peas with Salami Crisps; and Carrots with Warm Olive and Mint Dressing. Most of these side-dishes are so appealing it's easy to blow off the whole idea of serving a traditional protein alongside, and simply feast on veggies. And why not? Ms. Middleton proves that green is not only good, it's the best part of the party.

Braised Fingerlings with Rosemary and Mellow Garlic

amazon.com

Fingerlings. Just the name of these potatoes tickles me, and then there's that great knobby shape.  They're fun to cook with, and because they're relatively high in starch, braising is a great way to treat them. The starch helps them brown up quickly in the pan, but the braising liquid keeps their fluffy texture from drying out.

2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
8 large garlic cloves, each peeled and cut crosswise into 2 or 3 pieces
1/2 tsp kosher salt, and more as needed
12 oz/340 g small fingerling potatoes, halved lengthwise
1/2 cup/120 ml low-sodium chicken broth, and more if necessary
1 Tbsp unsalted butter
2 tsp finely chopped fresh rosemary
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 to 1 tsp sherry vinegar

1. In a 10-in/25-cm straight-sided sauté pan with a lid, heat the olive oil over medium heat, add the garlic, and sauté just until the oil becomes fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle the salt over the bottom of the pan and arrange the potato halves, cut side down, in the pan among the garlic. Cover the pan loosely, leaving the lid partially askew to let a little steam escape, and cook until the bottoms of the potatoes are nicely browned, 7 to 9 minutes. (Move the pan around occasionally for even browning.)

2. Pour in the broth (it will sputter a bit), partially cover again, and reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook, without stirring, until the chicken broth reduces to 1 or 2 Tbsp, 5 to 7 minutes. Pierce a potato with a paring knife. It should be just tender. (If not, add 1/4 cup of broth or water to the pan, partially cover, bring to a simmer, and cook until reduced to 1 or 2 Tbsp. Check again.) Add the butter and rosemary to the pan and stir the vegetables. Cook until the butter has melted and the rosemary has softened a bit and released its aroma, 1 to 2 minutes. As the butter melts, stir and scrape the bottom of the pan to incorporate any browned bits. Season the potatoes with a little more kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, and season with sherry vinegar to taste. Transfer the vegetables to a serving dish and stir and scrape out any remaining pan sauce over them. Serve warm.

Serves 3 to 4

Provençal Green Beans with Lemon-Pepper Oil and Herbed Sea Salt

From Fast, Fresh & Green by Susie Middleton (Chronicle Books, 2010)
            
My friend Ruth Lively, who's a terrific gardener and cook, tipped me off to dressing green beans while they're still warm with nothing but a really flavorful extra-virgin olive oil and a generous sprinkling of coarse sea salt. The fragrant olive oil mixing with the warmth of the beans creates a flavor that's just naturally delicious. Notching the flavor up just a bit isn't a bad idea either, so I often use an infused oil and an herb salt to dress the beans. The Provençal combination I'm including here is a lemon-pepper oil and an herb salt that you can make with either rosemary or lavender.

I have a lot of lavender growing in my yard, and it's taken me a while to figure out how to use it in the kitchen. I've found that just a little bit combined with a good sea salt, like fleur de sel, makes an intriguing condiment, not just for green beans, but also for other vegetables and grilled meats. That said, I certainly understand if it sounds too floral for you-opt for rosemary or just plain sea salt, but don't be shy about the amount of salt you use. The lemon-pepper oil is really versatile, too; drizzle any extra on grilled fish or grilled bread. (Make some extra and keep it in the fridge.)

You will have to taste the green beans after a few minutes of cooking to get a sense of how firm they are-that way when you taste again in another minute, you'll feel the difference. Keep cooking the beans just until you can easily bite through them (you won't feel resistance). I assure you that they'll still be green. You don't want to overcook them, but undercooked beans have a slightly unpleasant, rubbery texture to them. How fast your beans cook will depend in part on how old and how big they are; you can remove thinner ones sooner than the rest.

Serve these beans in high summer with mustardy grilled chicken. Or just eat them with your fingers after dressing them.

• 2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1 pound/455 g green beans, stem ends trimmed
• 2 tablespoons Quick-Infused Lemon-Pepper Oil (recipe follows) or best-quality extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/2 to 1 teaspoon Provençal Herb Salt (recipe follows) or coarse sea salt, preferably fleur de sel

1. Fill a large saucepan half full with water, add the salt, and bring to a boil. Arrange a few layers of dishtowels on a work surface to drain the beans. Add the beans to the boiling water and begin timing immediately. Boil until the beans are tender to the bite but still green, 5 to 8 minutes. (Begin tasting after 4 minutes; the cooking time will vary, depending on the age of the beans and how quickly your stove top returns water to a boil.) Don't undercook, as toothy green beans are not the goal here. Drain the beans, or use tongs to lift them out of the water, and spread them out on the towels to let excess moisture drain and evaporate, about 5 minutes.

2. Transfer the beans to a shallow serving dish and drizzle most of the oil over them. Sprinkle with some of the herb salt or sea salt. Toss gently and add more oil to coat well and more herb salt. Taste a bean and add still more salt if you like (be generous!). Serve warm.

Serves 4

Quick-Infused Lemon-Pepper Oil

From Fast, Fresh & Green by Susie Middleton (Chronicle Books, 2010)

This oil keeps well in the fridge, so double or triple the amounts if you like and use it on grilled fish or any steamed vegetable.

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 teaspoon packed grated lemon zest
• 8 coarse grinds black pepper

1. Pour the olive oil into a small bowl and add the lemon zest and pepper. Let sit for 15 to 20 minutes before using.

Yields 2 tablespoons
 

Provençal Herb Salt

From Fast, Fresh & Green by Susie Middleton (Chronicle Books, 2010)

This salt delivers a lot of flavor. Lavender can be overpowering, though, so take care not to include more than 1/4 teaspoon of chopped buds per 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Mix this not too long before using. This salt is delicious on roast lamb, as well as on warm green beans.

• 1/4 teaspoon chopped fresh lavender buds or rosemary leaves
• 1/2 teaspoon sea salt

In a small bowl, combine the lavender with the salt and mix well with your fingers. Let sit for a few minutes before using.

Yields 3/4 teaspoon

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Ever wonder how Hollywood celebrities entertain? They usually hire Denise Vivaldo. From intimate dinners at home to the Governor's Ball at the Academy Awards, she's done it all. And now she has written The Entertaining Encyclopedia.

Denise is a celebrity in her own right: a classically trained chef; professional recipe developer; award-winning author of 5 cookbooks; UCLA Culinary Program professor; accomplished food stylist; and renowned caterer for 20+ years. Who could be better qualified to write about entertaining?

The book features 25 menus as diverse as a Neighborhood Block Party; Garden Brunch; Barcelona Bash; and Grecian Get-Together. There are also over 200 clearly written, tried-and-true recipes from the author's private files. None of them require daunting skills or impossible-to-find ingredients, yet each has enough pizazz to make a lasting impression. (You don't need to be rich or famous to enjoy Prosciutto-Wrapped Mango; Seared Ahi Tuna Salad; Couscous with Raisins and Caramelized Onions; or Death-by-Chocolate Cookies.) As an added bonus for those who entertain larger groups, each recipe indicates how many times it can be multiplied successfully.

The first half of the book is loaded with tips. Seriously. The amount of practical information is staggering—things like choosing the perfect menu; creating ambiance; figuring out how much food and drink you'll need; choosing the right glass for the right beverage, and just about every other dilemma a host might encounter. The secrets to success are all here—even ones you may have never considered.

The most refreshing surprise is that the book doesn't read like some dry instructional manual. Slip in-between the covers with Denise and you'll learn about her surprise encounter with Elizabeth Taylor, and how she met Frank Sinatra—twice.

There are certainly flashier books on the subject of entertaining—glossy coffee table tomes with more style than substance—but none contain the invaluable minutiae this author has crammed into less than 500 pages. My personal inclination is to say this book is a necessary resource for anyone who ever answers the doorbell; but suffice it to say that the knowledge contained within these pages is truly encyclopedic.

Roasted Chicken Chopped Salad with Blue Cheese Vinaigrette

Amazon.com

SERVES 6 or can be multiplied up to 4 times

There's so much variety and potential in this chopped salad, and it's an easy one to serve on a picnic blanket. Take liberties with the ingredients and personalize it however you please. Buy a roasted chicken at your grocery store to make this recipe quicker.

Make Ahead: Chopped salads can be prepped a day in advance if you store the ingredients separately in the refrigerator.

• 1 head romaine lettuce, chopped   
• 6 green onions, sliced   
• 3 tomatoes, diced   
• 1 large carrot, diced   
• 1 red bell pepper, finely chopped   
• 1 yellow bell pepper, finely chopped   
• 1 cucumber, peeled and diced   
• 1 can (14 to 19 oz/398 to 540 mL) chickpeas, drained and rinsed
• 1 lb fresh mozzarella cheese, diced   
• 1 lb bacon, cooked crisp and crumbled   
• 2 cups diced roasted chicken   
• 1/2 cup sliced cooked or drained canned red beets   
• 3/4 cup Blue Cheese Vinaigrette (see recipe below)   

Divide romaine among serving plates. Arrange green onions, tomatoes, carrot, red pepper, yellow pepper, cucumber, chickpeas, mozzarella, bacon, chicken and beets attractively on top. Serve with dressing on the side.

Easy Extras: This is the place to exercise your imagination. Add any ingredients that strike your fancy, such as artichoke hearts, corn kernels, edamame or other beans, almonds, pecans or sunflower seeds.

Blue Cheese Vinaigrette

From The Entertaining Encyclopedia: Essential Tips for Hosting the Perfect Party  by Denise Vivaldo, Robert Rose 2009.

MAKES 1 CUP (250 ML) or can be multiplied up to 4 times

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese   
1/4 cup champagne vinegar or seasoned rice vinegar
2 tsp Dijon mustard
1/4 tsp salt
Pinch freshly ground black pepper

In a food processor or blender, pulse oil, blue cheese, vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper until creamy.

Variation: The blue cheese can be replaced with feta, Gorgonzola or cream cheese.

Place servings of dressing in small containers with lids, such as Mason jars or disposable plastic condiment cups, and pack them with the salads so the dressing won't make the salad go to mush before you're ready to serve it.

Make Ahead: This dressing can be made up to 3 days in advance if refrigerated in an airtight container.

Spiced Lamb Kebabs

From The Entertaining Encyclopedia: Essential Tips for Hosting the Perfect Party  by Denise Vivaldo, Robert Rose 2009.

SERVES 6 or can be multiplied up to 4 times

The addition of cinnamon gives this dish a wonderfully exotic taste.

Tips: Kebabs can be served as sandwiches with flatbread.

If you prefer your lamb cooked to medium, broil or grill for 7 to  8 minutes; medium-well for 9 to 10 minutes; well for  11 to 12 minutes.

Twelve 12-inch (30 cm) metal or wooden skewers
2 1/2 lb boneless leg of lamb   
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tsp ground cumin   
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
Pinch cayenne pepper
1 red onion, cut into large pieces   

1. Trim fat from lamb and cut into 1 1/2-inch (4 cm) cubes.

2. In a sealable plastic bag, combine oil, cumin, black pepper, cinnamon and cayenne. Add lamb, seal and toss to coat. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight, shaking bag occasionally to redistribute marinade.

3. Preheat broiler, or preheat barbecue grill to medium-high. If using wooden skewers, soak them in water for 10 minutes.

4. Separate onion into pieces of 2 to 3 layers. Remove lamb from marinade, discarding marinade. Thread lamb and onion onto skewers, with 3 slices of onion between each piece of lamb. If broiling, place on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Broil or grill for 5 to 6 minutes, turning to sear all sides, until medium-rare, or until desired doneness.

Easy Extras: Add other vegetables with the onions: cubes of zucchini, sliced bell peppers or small pieces of eggplant would work well. Salt eggplant generously, drain for at least 1 hour and rinse well before using.
 

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Only a few years ago author Cathy Thomas wrote what I consider one of the most complete reference books on fresh fruits and vegetables. I keep it in my office, within arm's reach - and I reach for it often. I was delighted when I came across this new book and learned that Ms. Thomas has continued her collaboration with Melissa's World Variety Produce, which is the nation's leading distributor of specialty produce and the professional chef's go-to source for unusual fruits and vegetables. This time, however, Thomas concentrates on everything an informed home cook should know about seasonal cooking in the real world.

Instead of identifying esoteric (and often outrageously expensive) ingredients that appear only occasionally in big-city markets, Thomas devotes her considerable journalistic talents to the 56 most commonly available organic fruits and vegetables. With the proliferation of farmers' markets cropping up throughout the country and the selection of top-notch produce now available in so many supermarkets, this is a welcome, practical approach to incorporating organic foods into our diet.

So what's so different about cooking with organic produce? Well, it depends. If you're not yet convinced about the health benefits, a taste-test will usually win you over. While it might take a rather refined palate to detect the difference between a floret of organic broccoli and one grown conventionally, when summer rolls around the value of organic is pretty much a no-brainer. Stone fruits, berries, melons, tomatoes, corn - and even the common cucumber - benefit noticeably from the absence of flavor-robbing systemic pesticides and a few extra hours in the sun. These vibrant differences are often as obvious in texture as they are in taste, and this ultimately affects how to best showcase the produce in cooking.

Fruits and vegetables are organized alphabetically, making this book a handy companion for avid cooks as well as home gardeners. Along with a color photograph, each entry provides a thorough description of the ingredient; then describes how the organic growing process affects the quality of the mature fruit or veggie; and provides valuable tips for selection, storage, prep, and getting the most for your money. All of this information is followed by the most valuable bonus of all: 4 enticing, original recipes featuring that ingredient - everything from a Kiwi Martini to Grilled Portobello Burgers; Rotelli with Roasted Garlic, Goat Cheese, and Baby Greens; Garden Enchiladas; and Grape and Muscat Wine Cake. Healthy never tasted so good.

Cooking with organic fruits and vegetables is far more than a trend, and Cathy Thomas does a fine job of explaining the hows and whys.

Warm Plum-Plumcot Bleeding Heart "Pies"

amazon.com

yield: 8

These baked plums and plumcots are vibrantly flavored and delectably juicy. This simple presentation showcases small "pies" baked without bottom crusts. The fruit and heart-shaped top crusts bake separately. Once the filling is baked, each one is topped with a sugared crust and allowed to sit about twenty minutes before serving accompanied with sweetened whipped cream. To save time, prepared refrigerated crust can be substituted for the from-scratch dough.

Crust

• 1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour, plus flour for dusting work surface
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
• 1/4 cup ice water

Filling

• 3/4 cup sugar plus 1 tablespoon, divided use
• 2 tablespoons instant tapioca
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
• 3 pounds plums or plumcots, pitted, cut in 3/8-inch wedges

Egg wash

• 1 tablespoon cream or 1 egg yolk beaten with 1 teaspoon water
  

For serving

• cold sweetened whipped cream

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position. Preheat oven to 375°F.

2. Prepare crust: In food processor fitted with metal blade, pulse flour, salt, and sugar 2 or 3 times. Add butter and pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal. With motor running, add ice water through feed tube, processing until mixture just barely comes together. Pat into disk shape; place in plastic bag and refrigerate for 1 hour.

3. Prepare filling: Whisk to combine ¾ cup sugar, tapioca, cornstarch, cinnamon, and ginger in large bowl. Add plums or plumcots; toss. Arrange 8 (6- or 8-ounce) soufflé cups or ramekins on rimmed baking sheet. Divide plum mixture between cups, filling each even with top (wipe rims clean).

4. Lightly flour clean, dry work surface, as well as a rolling pin. Place dough in center and roll to ¼-inch thickness. Use small sharp knife to cut out 8 hearts large enough to sit atop filling without touching sides of soufflé cup or ramekin (or if preferred use a heart-shaped cookie cutter). Place hearts in single layer on parchment paper-lined baking sheet; dip pastry brush in wash (either cream or egg mixture) and brush lightly on tops of hearts. Bake until cooked through and nicely browned, about 15 minutes. Remove from oven and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon sugar; set aside. Increase oven temperature to 450°F.

5. Place plum-filled cups on rimmed baking sheet. Bake 25 minutes in 450°F oven, or until plums are soft. Remove from oven. If tops look dry, carefully stir hot mixture to bring some juicy portion to top. Place a baked crust heart on top of each; press down gently to surround edges of heart with juice. Allow to cool at least 20 minutes. Serve warm with whipped cream.

Nutritional information (per serving without whipped cream): Calories 350, fat calories 110; total fat 12 grams, sat fat 7 grams, cholesterol 30 milligrams; sodium 150 milligrams; total carbohydrates 59 grams, fiber 3 grams, sugars 38 grams; protein 3 grams; vitamin A IUs 20%; vitamin C 25%; calcium 2%; iron 8%.

Slushy Nectarine Margaritas

From Melissa's Everyday Cooking with Organic Produce: A Guide to Easy-to-Make Dishes with Fresh Organic Fruits and Vegetables by Cathy Thomas. Wiley (2010).

yield: about 8 servings

Frozen nectarine chunks create slushy paradise when whirled in a blender with margarita ingredients. If you have a large, heavy-duty blender, you can make the entire batch at one time. If using a standard blender, divide the ingredients in half and prepare two batches. The recipe suggests rimming the lip of each glass with sugar. If you prefer, you can skip the sugared edge and proceed to step 2.

• Optional: about 1/3 cup sugar
• Optional: 1 juicy lime, quartered
  
• 6 medium nectarines, peeled, pitted, cut into 1-inch chunks, frozen

• 1/4 cup tequila
• 1/4 cup orange liqueur or sweet-and-sour mix (see Cook's Note)
• 1/4 cup fresh lime juice
• 3 cups crushed ice

1. To rim glasses with sugar: Place sugar on shallow dish or saucer (larger than the diameter of margarita glasses). Moisten rims of glasses with lime quarters. Dip rims of glasses in sugar to lightly coat.

2. Place remaining ingredients in large, heavy-duty blender. Puree until slushy. Pour into prepared glasses.

Nutritional information (per serving without sugared rims): Calories 100, fat calories 0; total fat 0 grams, sat fat 0 grams, cholesterol 0 milligrams; sodium 0 milligrams; total carbohydrates 17 grams, fiber 1 gram, sugars 13 grams; protein 1 gram; vitamin A IUs 6%; vitamin C 15%; calcium 0%; iron 2%.
Cook's Note: If you prefer margaritas that have a tart edge, use sweet-and-sour mix rather than orange liqueur. To make sweet-and-sour mix: Combine and heat 1 cup sugar with 1 cup water in a small saucepan until sugar is dissolved. Cool completely. Once cooled, add 1 cup each fresh lime juice and lemon juice. Stir well to combine. Refrigerate unused portions.

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For years now, I have admired the many talents of author John Barricelli. His regular appearances on Martha Stewart's television show and as host of Everyday Baking from Everyday Food have proven he is the go-to guy whenever you're looking for a great recipe. (And the fact that he's tall, dark, and handsome certainly doesn't lessen his appeal.)

This third-generation baker is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America; and cooked in a number of very prestigious restaurants before opening the SoNo Baking Company and Café in South Norwalk (SoNo, get it?), Connecticut in 2005.

Barricelli's gentle manner and innate teaching ability are conveyed in each recipe. He carries us through a gamut of good things from the oven, from simple sweets like plump little streusel-topped Jam Tartlets to his decadent Tart Tropezienne, an edible extravaganza of sliced ripe strawberries and silky pastry cream sandwiched within a sugar-speckled brioche. (sigh)

As the chapters progress, there are numerous worthwhile undertakings like Sour Cherry Chocolate Scones; Macadamia Butterscotch Bars; Corn, Crab, and Chive Tart; Sunday Brunch Dried Fruit Focaccia; and a crusty selection of his legendary SoNo breads.

In fact, there's something for every kind of baker, from the novice to the accomplished. Nothing overly show-offy, just a lot of tried and true favorites, with the added bonus of plenty of helpful tips. It is clear from the start that this seasoned pro is as much at ease in his own home kitchen as he is in a commercial bakery. Ben Fink's luscious photos are simply the icing on the cake…leaving no doubt that this food is worth making-and eating.

Carrot Cake Cupcakes

amazon.com

makes 1 dozen cupcakes

My daughter Nola made her television debut at the tender age of 12 months when she appeared with me on a Martha Stewart Living television cupcake segment. Nola sat patiently in her high chair throughout the show while Martha and I decorated a variety of cupcakes. When we finally put one in front of her, she went to town, getting more of the cake and icing on herself than in her mouth! While typical carrot cakes can be heavy and dense, this version is light and moist. The carrots lend a warm color, sweetness, and texture to the cake and the grated ginger adds brightness and a kick to the traditional cream cheese frosting.

Cupcakes

• 1 ¼ cups cake flour
• ¾ teaspoon baking soda
• ¾ teaspoon baking powder
• ¾ teaspoon coarse salt
• ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/8 teaspoon grated nutmeg
• 1/3 cup golden raisins
• 8 ounces (about 3 medium) carrots, peeled and shredded on the fine holes of a grater
• 1/3 cup sour cream
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• ½ cup vegetable oil
• 2 large eggs

Cream Cheese Frosting

• 8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature (taken out of the refrigerator at least 4 hours in advance)
• ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
• Pinch of coarse salt
• 3 cups confectioners' sugar
• Grated zest of 1 orange
• 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger (grated on a Microplane)
• 12 carrot peels, approximately 3 inches in length, for garnish

1. Set an oven rack in the middle position. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Coat a 12-cup muffin pan generously with nonstick cooking spray. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a nonstick silicone baking mat; set aside.

2. To make the cupcakes: In a medium bowl, sift the flour with the baking soda, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Stir in the raisins; set aside.

3. In a large bowl, whisk together the grated carrots, sour cream, sugar, oil, and eggs. Add the dry ingredients and fold with a rubber spatula until the flour has been absorbed.

4. Place the prepared muffin pan on the prepared baking sheet. Use a 2-inch (¼ cup) ice cream scoop to divide the batter evenly among the muffin cups.

5. Bake, rotating the sheet about two-thirds of the way through the baking time, until the tops of the cupcakes spring back when touched, the edges are golden brown, and a cake tester inserted in the center of a cupcake comes out clean, 18 to 22 minutes.

6. Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool for 10 minutes. Use an offset spatula to gently lift and turn the cupcakes on their sides in the muffin cups. Let cool completely in the pan.

7. To make the frosting: In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese, butter, and salt until light and creamy, about 2 minutes. Add the confectioners' sugar and beat for 1 minute. Beat in the grated zest and ginger.

8. Frost the cooled cupcakes with the cream cheese frosting. Roll each carrot peel tightly and place atop the cupcakes.

Strawberry Thumbprint Corn Muffins

From The SoNo Baking Company Cookbook: The Best Sweet and Savory Recipes for Every Occasion by John Barricelli. Clarkson Potter (2010).

The addition of preserves in the muffins makes these corn muffins a real standout from the typical corn muffin. At the bakery we use our own homemade strawberry preserves. We bake these muffins in a square shape, but they can also be made in a standard round muffin pan, as written and shown here.

makes 12 muffins

• 1 ½  cups all-purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon coarse salt
• ¾ cup sugar
• ¾ cup coarse yellow cornmeal
• 3 large eggs, at room temperature
• ½   cup buttermilk
• ½   cup vegetable oil
• ½   cup sour cream
• ¾ cup strawberry preserves

1. Set the oven rack in the middle position. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a standard 12-cup muffin pan with nonstick cooking spray, or generously butter with softened butter; set aside.

2. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, sugar, and cornmeal until combined.

3. With the mixer on low speed, add the eggs one at a time, beating after each addition. Add the buttermilk and oil. Mix until combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl halfway through. Add the sour cream and mix to combine.

4. Use a 2-inch (¼ cup) ice cream scoop to divide the batter evenly among the prepared muffin cups.

5. Bake, rotating the pan about two-thirds of the way through, until the muffins are golden brown and a cake tester inserted in the center of a muffin comes out clean, 15 to 18 minutes.

6. Transfer the muffin pan to a wire rack and allow to cool for 5 minutes. Using your thumb or the back of a teaspoon, press down in the middle of each muffin, creating an indentation deep enough to hold 1 tablespoon of preserves. Spoon or pipe (fill a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip with the preserves and gently squeeze) 1 tablespoon of strawberry preserves into each indentation. Let cool for another 10 minutes. Use an offset spatula or table knife to gently lift the muffins and transfer to a wire rack. Serve warm.

technique tip: For failproof standard-size muffins, use a ¼ cup (2-inch) ice cream scoop to transfer the batter from the bowl to the prepared muffin pan. This will prevent drips along the edge of the pan and will help with even distribution and portion consistency among the cups.
 

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