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About Lisa Lawless Through the food blog Lisa is Cooking, Lisa Lawless is able to chronicle her adventures in the kitchen. After years of collecting cookbooks, books of food writing, food history, and nutrition and compiling files of recipes from food publications, the blog, started in March 2008, is a way to track the cooking that's inspired by all those sources. Lisa is Cooking has been mentioned twice on Saveur's Best of the Web and was included in The Austin Chronicle's Top Austin Food Blogs of 2010. Lisa is Cooking was also chosen as a Best Austin Blog by HelloAustin in June of 2011. As a supporter of the Slow Food movement, Lisa joined the board of Slow Food Austin in 2010 and maintains web communications for the organization.
Lisa's Articles
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Written by Lisa Lawless
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Tuesday, 24 January 2012 |
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| |  | Goat Cheesecakes with Citrus and Candied Beets | |  | My Rating: | View Recipe: | More Actions: | | cooking notes close notes | foodie tags close tags | share close share | | | My Notes: - Private info just for you! | |
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Rather than mixing cultural references in food for trendy effect, Anita Lo has created a cooking style that truly re-imagines dishes by drawing on flavors from different corners of the world. Her new book, Cooking Without Borders, presents her unique and sophisticated approach to delivering traditional flavor combinations in unexpected ways. Through her multicultural upbringing, world travels, and training in French cooking techniques, she has been influenced by many disparate culinary traditions.
Many of the recipes in the book are from past and present restaurant menus, but some are family favorites and dishes she prepares at home. Some recipes present a challenge with hard-to-find ingredients, and some are more time-consuming than others; but Lo always offers suggestions for substitutions or simplifications for the home cook. Her inspiration ranges from what grows in her garden and whatever she catches from her fishing boat off Moriches Bay to a mix of Asian cuisines. Lo expanded beyond her background in classic French cooking by learning about Korean cooking in Seoul before opening a pan-Asian restaurant in New York. She might combine flavors common in Eastern European food while using Japanese ingredients, but the different influences come together in extremely refined ways. It's enlightening to read her explanation of how she built each dish the way she did. A great example of Lo's approach is the Chilled Sweet Pea Soup with Smoked Sturgeon and Caviar. There are several ideas at play in this one soup. First, the Japanese flavor combination of peas, shiso, and wasabi is present. Next, the Eastern European tradition of serving smoked fish with horseradish is achieved with the smoked sturgeon and horseradish in the form of wasabi. From the American South, smoky flavors are often paired with peas, and here that smoked element is fish. And, lastly, the English mix of peas and mint is there due to the minty flavor of the shiso. The full recipe includes instructions for smoking the sturgeon yourself, and for all of the garnishes added when this is served at Lo's restaurant, Annisa. Of course, for serving at home, you could purchase pre-smoked sturgeon or other white fish and present the soup as simply or as accessorized as you wish. Moving on around the globe, for her Zucchini Blossoms appetizer she looks to Spain and stuffs the blossoms with a grated young Manchego. The stuffed and fried blossoms are served with a pureed sauce made from piquillo peppers and sherry vinegar. Mediterranean and North African flavors are found in the Fried Mussels with Overnight Tomatoes, Harissa, and Saffron Sultanas. In the From the Sea chapter, you'll find Pan-Roasted Sea Scallops with Uni, Bacon, and Mustard Greens; Sautéed Fillet of Halibut with Fennel and White Anchovies; and Miso-Marinated Sable with Crisp Silken Tofu in a Bonito Broth, among others. In the Poultry chapter, there are dishes as diverse as Chicken Paprikash; Pan-Roasted Duck Breasts with Chestnut Puree and Honey Gastrique; and Chicken Wings with Korean Chile. In the Meat chapter, Lo includes her mother's BBQ Spareribs; Dry-Aged Ribeye with Raclette-Stuffed Rosti Potatoes; and the Annisa Beef "Pot-Au-Feu" made with ginger, soy sauce, Tokyo turnips, purple potatoes, boiled kombu, and wasabi. My first trip to the kitchen with this book was to explore the Desserts and Drink chapter. I was intrigued by Lo's transformation of flavors usually found in a salad into a rich and sweet dessert. She started with the components of a beet salad with goat cheese and vinaigrette, and then turned the goat cheese into a cheesecake and candied the beets to bring out their natural sweetness. A citrus salad and candied citrus zest delivered the acidity. Like all of the dishes shown in the book, this one was stunning on the plate. It was a thoughtful composition of flavors from the richness of the cheesecake to the vanilla-scented sweetness of the beets and sauce and the freshness of the citrus. This dessert was eye-opening and fun to experience, and most importantly, it was delicious. Read more from Lisa on Cooking without Borders on her blog Cooking with Lisa.
Goat Cheesecakes with Citrus and Candied Beets Recipe from Cooking Without Borders by "Anita Lo, Charlotte Druckman" ("Stewart, Tabori and Chang", 2011) At Bouley, where I held my first professional cooking position in Manhattan, my initial job was at the canape station. We made miniature terrines out of fresh goat cheese, roasted beets, and fresh herbs. It was a standard French combination, borrowed originally from Joel Robuchon, for whom David Bouley had worked. Each ingredient heightened the other: The saltiness of the chevre was offset by the earthiness of the beets. We drizzled a vinaigrette over the top of the bite-size savory. Made with mushroom juice, sherry, and red wine, the sauce's acid balanced the fat of the cheese and accented the saccharine notes of the beets. This dessert relies on the same concepts, but focuses on different aspects of each ingredient: the cheese's creaminess and the beet's sweetness. Here, the idea is to borrow the beet's sugar-not to draw out its vegetal nature, but instead to use it as a sweetener for dessert. The citrus adds further complexity while providing the acid that the vinaigrette had in the savory version. It's an interesting compromise between a dessert item and a cheese course, although it is pretty sweet; in fact, it's very much like a New York cheesecake.
Serves 8 For the cheesecakes:
- ¾ cup sugar
- 3 tablespoons cornstarch
- 15 ounces cream cheese
- 15 ounces fresh creamy goat cheese (chèvre)
- 1 large egg, separated
- ½ cup heavy cream
- ½ vanilla bean, split, seeds scraped (bean pod reserved for below), or an additional 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
- Pinch of salt
For the candied beets:
- 1 cup sugar
- ½ vanilla bean pod (from above)
- Pinch of salt
- A few grinds of black pepper
- 2 small beets, peeled and cut into thin slices
- For the candied zest:
- 1 cup sugar
- Julienned zest of ½ grapefruit, 1 orange, and ¼ lime, white pith removed
For the citrus salad:
- 8 grapefruit sections
- 16 orange sections
- 8 lime sections
Make the cheesecakes: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Liberally spray 8 (4-ounce) molds with nonstick cooking spray. In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the sugar and cornstarch and mix until the cornstarch is no longer clumpy. Add the cheeses, egg yolk, cream, vanilla-bean seeds, and vanilla extract and beat with the paddle attachment until soft and uniform. Using the whisk attachment and a clean bowl, whip the egg white together with the salt until soft peaks form. Fold the two mixtures together and transfer to the prepared molds. Bake until light golden brown on top. Let cool and refrigerate, covered, until use. Make the candied beets: In a large saucepan, bring the sugar and 1 cup of water to a boil with the scraped vanilla-bean pod, the salt, and pepper. Add the beets to the pan and cook over high heat until tender and the syrup is reduced. Set aside. Make the candied zest: In a saucepan over high heat, combine the sugar and 1 cup of water and bring to a boil. Add the zests and simmer for 4 to 5 minutes, until cooked through and glossy. Drain, reserving the syrup. Make the citrus salad: In a bowl, combine the sectioned fruit together with the zest cooking syrup. Place on one side of each serving plate. Use the beet syrup as a sauce on the other side and top with an unmolded cheesecake, garnished with the candied beets and candied zest.
Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.
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Last Updated ( Tuesday, 24 January 2012 )
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Basic to Brilliant, Yall |
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Written by Lisa Lawless
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Tuesday, 15 November 2011 |
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| |  | Curried Chicken Wings with Peach Dipping Sauce | |  | |
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 Photo by Helene Dujardin Š 2011 Reading the new book Basic to Brilliant, Ya’ll felt like a chat over coffee with Virginia Willis, or so I imagine. She shares stories about her family like blackberry-picking in Georgia with her grandfather, and how her grandmother might have laughed at the 'high cotton‘ version of Brunswick Stew in the book. There are also tidbits about her experiences training and working in France, learning from Anne Willan at La Varenne, and then returning to the US to work on television shows with Bobby Flay and Martha Stewart. The mix of her upbringing in the South, her training in France, and her professional experience has resulted in a repertoire of down-home food elevated through perfect execution and in some cases, French dishes with a southern accent. She also shares smart observations about ingredients and food history. Willis describes the rise and fall of rice farming in southern coastal areas and the popularity of grits in the South, pointing out that΄instant grits are offensive.‘ She then goes on to explain the parts of corn kernels and how the best coarse-ground grits are made. In the introduction to the meat chapter, grass-fed and finished beef and its associated challenges and costs are compared to feedlot-finished beef. In her always friendly voice, Willis discusses the time when meat was a luxury rather than a choice. She offers solid information and leaves it up to readers to make informed choices based upon what’s available. For every recipe in the book there’s a basic approach, followed by a tip for making each dish a bit more special or brilliant. The brilliant part might be a garnish, another way of presenting the dish, or maybe a slightly more involved technique at some point in the process. I’m not exaggerating by saying all of those tips really are brilliant, and while they take a little more time, they’re all very doable. I tried the Chilled Haricots Verts with Crème Fraiche, and for that recipe the brilliant tip is to make a mushroom-breadcrumb topping by chopping dried porcinis and chunks of bread in a food processor and then browning them in a sauté pan with melted butter. The topping made the dish like a sophisticated salad version of green bean casserole. For the Roasted Tomato Soup, the brilliant tip is to bake little Gruyere Flans and float one in the center of each serving. The Bittersweet Chocolate Bread Pudding is made brilliant with Chevre Caramel Sauce. Making a caramel sauce with goat cheese instead of cream is so inspired, that might even be beyond brilliant. Right away I had to try the Curried Chicken Wings with Peach Dipping Sauce from the Starters and Nibbles chapter. The wings were marinated in a spicy mix with curry powder, soy sauce, and chopped jalapenos, and the sweet-savory dipping sauce was made with Greek yogurt, peach preserves, and hot sauce. Here, the brilliant tip was to turn the wings into chicken “lollipops.” Willis writes that she learned this technique from Jacques Pepin on television. The wings were separated into drumettes and flat pieces, and the wing tips were removed and saved for stock. For the drumettes, the tendons were cut at the narrow end and the meat was scraped down to the thicker end, leaving the bone exposed like a lollipop stick. For the flat pieces, which were a little more challenging, the two bones were separated at one end the meat was scraped down the bigger bone, and the smaller bone was removed. The end result was great-looking chicken pieces that were very easy to pick up and eat, and the flavors from the marinade and the dipping sauce were ample reward for the extra effort. Read more on Lisa's adventures with Basic to Brilliant, Y'all on her blog Lisa Is Cooking. Curried Chicken Wings with Peach Dipping SauceReprinted with permission from Basic to Brilliant, Y'all: 150 Refined Southern Recipes and Ways to Dress Them Up for Company by Virginia Willis, copyright © 2011. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc.
MAKES ABOUT 24Wings
- 3 pounds chicken wings (12 to 14 whole wings)
- 1 teaspoon Madras or spicy curry powder
- 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
- 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
- 2 tablespoons soy sauce
- 2 tablespoons canola oil
- 2 to 3 jalapeños, cored, seeded, and very finely chopped, plus more for garnish
- 2 cloves garlic, very finely chopped
- Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
Dipping Sauce - 1/2 cup plain low-fat or whole-milk Greek-style yogurt
- 3 tablespoons peach preserves
- 1/4 teaspoon hot sauce, or to taste
- Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Cilantro sprigs, for garnish
To prepare the chicken wings, cut off the wing tips (reserve to make stock), and halve the wings at the joint. In a large bowl, combine the wings, curry powder, turmeric, cayenne, soy sauce, canola oil, jalapeños, garlic, salt, and pepper. Toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or overnight. Meanwhile, to make the sauce, combine the yogurt, preserves, and hot sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until serving. Remove the marinated wings from the refrigerator and let come to room temperature. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil, then set a large wire rack on the foil. (I don't like to use a nonstick baking liner on the baking sheet in this instance because the curry can stain the silicone.) Transfer the wings without crowding to the prepared baking sheet. Bake until the wings are deep brown and the juices run clear, turning once, 15 to 20 minutes per side. (If you like charred bits, after the 40 minutes, turn the oven on to broil for about 5 more minutes.) Taste the yogurt dipping sauce and adjust for seasoning with salt and pepper. Garnish with cilantro and serve the hot wings with the dipping sauce on the side.
Brilliant: Chicken "Lollipops" I first learned this watching Jacques Pépin on television. It's impossible to watch him without learning something. This converts regular old chicken wings to Brilliant hors d'oeuvres. To prepare the "lollipops," cut off the wing tips (reserve to make stock), and halve the wings at the joint. (This will leave you with the drumette and flat.) Using a paring knife, cut the tendons at the narrower end of each drumette joint. Hold that end with a kitchen towel and scrape down the meat as far as possible toward the thicker end to make a plump lollipop shape. Then, take each flat and cut through the cartilage at one end of each piece, separating the bones. Scrape the meat down the larger bone to make a lollipop shape; remove and discard the smaller bone. Proceed with the Basic recipe to marinate as instructed.
Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.
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Last Updated ( Tuesday, 15 November 2011 )
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Written by Lisa Lawless
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Tuesday, 20 September 2011 |
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| |  | Steamed Clams and Basil Pesto | |  | |
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These days when you stand in front of a fish counter and ponder all the issues surrounding sustainable fishing and the health of our oceans, you might become dizzy while trying to decide what to have for dinner. Thankfully, the book For Cod and Country: Simple, Delicious, Sustainable Cooking by National Geographic Fellow and Washington, D.C. chef Barton Seaver makes it much easier not only to choose which fish to bring home but also to turn it into a great meal. So, yes, there are a lot of problems with the current state of the depletion of some fish species, and not all fisheries are operating as sustainably as they should be just yet, but the book is quick to point out that the best way to encourage well-managed fishing and the restoration of marine ecosystems is by choosing well and supporting those in the business who are doing things right.
For instance, one of the ways to simplify choosing seafood is to look for the Marine Stewardship Council label. The MSC is an organization that certifies sustainable wild capture fisheries, so when their label appears on fish at market, it signifies it's from a trusted fishery. For more information about the different methods of catching fish and explanations of which ones are more sustainable than others, the book offers a quick guide. By knowing more about all the different fishing methods from pole-caught to dredging, shoppers will know what questions to ask at the fish counter. When you know how the seafood is caught and if it's from a certified fishery, you still need to choose a type. Seaver points out that interestingly, we've only recently developed such big appetites for big fish. Regarding larger species, Seaver writes: "eating tuna is like cutting down a redwood tree to build a campfire… Tuna and other apex predators such as sharks and swordfish are, in effect, the trees of the ocean." Therefore, no recipes for bluefin or yellowfin tuna are included in the book. But, you will find enthusiastic suggestions for all the sustainable options like Roasted Trout with Lime-Dill Butter and Roasted Potatoes, well-managed, farmed seafood like Oyster Risotto with Butternut Squash, Crème Fraiche, and Fresh Herbs, all kinds of wild salmon like Smoked Salmon Panzanella with Feta, Dill, and Grapes, and arctic char, catfish, crab, and more. Over the years, working as a chef, Seaver has moved toward simpler food, with fewer ingredients, focusing on what's best at the current time of year. With that freshness in mind, the book is organized by season. The hope is that by considering the seasonality of seafood, we will also think more about where it comes from and its life cycle. Likewise, we can pair seasonal seafood with vegetables available at the same time. For the different seasons, there are side dishes and appetizers like Pan-fried Potatoes with Orange-Sherry Aioli, Grilled Okra with Charred Onion Dip, Warm Cherry Tomato and Dill Salad, and Roasted Spaghetti Squash, Caper Yogurt, and Smoky Balsamic Reduction. Most shellfish like clams, mussels, and oysters are farmed sustainably and are always available. They also happen to be good for the environments in which they grow. And, since my basil plants are still thriving, my first choice of a dish to try from this book was Steamed Clams and Basil Pesto. For his version of Basil Pesto, Seaver uses walnuts rather than pine nuts, and for pairing it with seafood, he prefers to omit the cheese. He also opts for mostly neutral-flavored oil like canola with just a little extra-virgin olive oil in the pesto. With the hot, opened clams on a serving platter, they were then covered with the aromatic basil pesto sauce. Served with bread for savoring every bit of the sauce, this fresh-flavored dish was a hit. Read more on Lisa's adventures with For Cod and Country on her blog Lisa is Cooking .
Steamed Clams and Basil PestoRecipe from For Cod and Country by Barton Seaver (Sterling Epicure, 2011) Steamed shellfish work with so many different flavors. Here I top clams with a bright basil pesto. It is a super-easy preparation and makes an elegant and easy weeknight meal.
- 3 dozen littleneck clams, rinsed thoroughly (discard any that won’t close)
- 1 cup white wine
- 1/2 cup Basil Pesto
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 1 crusty baguette, sliced and toasted
Place the clams and wine in a covered pot over high heat. As the broth begins to boil, gently stir the clams to ensure that they cook evenly. Once all the shells are open (discard any that haven’t opened after 5 minutes), remove the clams from the pot and place them in serving bowls, leaving as much of the broth in the pot as possible. Carefully pour the broth into a bowl, leaving any sand that has collected in the bottom of the pot. Add the pesto and butter to the clam broth and stir to combine. Pour over the clams and serve with toasted bread. Serves 4 as an appetizer or light entrée Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.
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Last Updated ( Tuesday, 20 September 2011 )
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Written by Lisa Lawless
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Thursday, 21 July 2011 |
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| |  | Coca with Roasted Peppers and Eggplants | |  | |
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If you're not able to plan a trip to Spain this year, Claudia Roden's new book, The Food of Spain, might be the next best thing. The book tells of Spain's history, the rich mix of cultures that have moved from region to region in the country over time, the geography from coasts to mountains, and how all those things have made Spanish food what it is. There have been Roman, Moorish, Jewish, French and New World influences. The Roman Catholic Visigothic kingdom brought the tradition of feeding pigs acorns and berries in forests, just as the Iberico pigs are still fed today. From the Islamic Empire came rice, wheat, sugarcane, artichokes, bitter oranges, saffron, and new varieties of sheep.
Jews in Spain arrived in the Arab regions in the south, later moved to Christian regions in the north taking cooking styles with them, and in 1492 were either banished or required to convert to Christianity. At that time their cooking traditions became indicators of their heritage and practices they had to give up to avoid persecution. Still, olive oil-fried eggplant fritters and flourless cakes, among other dishes, have remained a part of Spanish food. In northern Spain, the French influence brought foie gras, truffles, butter, and cream in addition to elaborate cooking techniques. After explorers returned from the New World, corn, potatoes, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, beans, and peppers found their home in Spain. Chiles were transported to all regions by traveling monks and dried ground pimenton came to replace black pepper as the spice of choice. Roden weaves all of these historical details and more into the story of the origins of traditional Spanish dishes, and the pages are filled with beautiful photos of landscapes, architecture, plants, animals, and food. Although the cuisine is defined through historical information, the recipes are written for the modern home cook with availability of ingredients in mind. And, these are home-cooking dishes rather than complex, restaurant fare. The recipes section starts with stocks and basics followed by dressings and sauces. Then there are tapas, soups, egg dishes, savory pies, salads, fish and seafood, poultry and game, meat, rice and pasta, bean stews, desserts, and drinks. Among the recipes you'll find a hearty spinach and chickpea soup made with hard-boiled eggs and potatoes, and a creamy leek tart with a glossy top. Then, there's a golden baked dish of eggplant with béchamel and Manchego cheese topped with crisp breadcrumbs, and a light and flavorful pan-grilled fish with garlic and chile dressing. The roast chicken with apples and grapes will make a great fall meal, and the meatballs in almond sauce would be perfect party food. There are a few different versions of paella and other rice dishes, in addition to pasta like the fideos with seafood. The pastries chapter is hard to resist with flans, almond ice cream, puff pastry filled with almond custard, and walnut cake with brandy.
For my first dish from the book, I chose to make a typical home-cooked Catalonian coca which is a lot like pizza. Traditionally the flat dough would be topped with leftover vegetables, with maybe some anchovy fillets or canned tuna or sliced sausages. The version in the book is shown with roasted eggplant and red bell peppers, which is fit for the height of summer. Rather than being covered in a thick sauce as pizza often is, a mixture of cooked onion and fresh tomatoes was thinly spread on the dough before it was topped with the chopped roasted vegetables; it was then baked until the crust was crisp. Served with some Idiazabal cheese, a few olives, and wine, this was a simple way to savor Spain without leaving home. To read more about Lisa's adventures with The Food of Spain go to her blog LisaIsCooking.
Coca with Roasted Peppers and Eggplants(coca de recapte-catalonia and valencia)
Recipe from The Food of Spain by Claudia Roden (Ecco, 2011) In Catalonia the most common coca, which is sold in bakeries, has a thin bread-dough base and a topping of roasted peppers and eggplants (the region's beloved escalivada; see page 243) and onions and tomatoes. They say this coca was born in the area of Lleida and Tarragona. It is eaten cold (I like it hot too). De recapte here means "what you have in stock," because you can add the kind of things that are normally on hand in the Catalan kitchen-see the variations.Serves 4 to 8 as a starter, 2 as a main dish For the dough
- 2 ¾ cups bread flour, or as needed
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 teaspoons active dry yeast
- About ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water
- ¼ teaspoon sugar
For the topping
- 2 eggplants (about 1 to 1 ½ pounds)
- 3 red bell peppers
- 2 large onions, chopped
- 5 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 tomatoes, peeled and chopped
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- Salt
Put the flour in a large bowl and sprinkle in the salt and oil. Put the yeast in a measuring cup with about ½ cup of the warm water and the sugar and stir well.
When the yeast mixture begins to froth, pour it into the flour, then very gradually pour in the remaining warm water, adding only just enough to make a soft ball that sticks together, stirring it in first with a fork, then working it with your hands. Knead the dough in the bowl for 10 minutes, adding more water by the tablespoon if it is too dry or a little flour if it is too sticky, until smooth and elastic. Grease the bowl with about ½ tablespoon oil, then turn the dough in it, coating it well with oil, so that a crust will not form when it rises. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough rise in a warm place for 1 to 2 hours, until doubled in volume. For the topping, put the eggplants and peppers on a sheet of foil on a baking sheet, and prick the eggplants in a few places with a pointed knife. Put the tray in a preheated 350°F oven and bake, turning once, until the peppers are soft and the skins have blistered and the eggplants are soft, 30 to 45 minutes (the eggplants will take quite a bit longer than the peppers). While the peppers and eggplants are in the oven, fry the onions in 3 tablespoons of oil in a large skillet, covered to begin with, stirring often until soft. Add the tomatoes, sugar, and some salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has evaporated. When the peppers are soft, put them in 1 or 2 sturdy plastic bags, and twist to seal them. Leave them for about 10 minutes to steam and cool. Pull off the skin from the peppers, remove the stems and seeds, and cut the peppers into ½- to ¾-inch squares. Peel the eggplants, put them in a colander, and press slightly to let the juices drain away. Then cut them into similar?size pieces. Mix the eggplants and peppers together and toss with salt to taste and the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil so that they are well coated. Brush two large baking sheets with oil. Punch the risen dough down and knead for a couple of minutes. Divide it into 2 balls. Roll each one out on a floured surface with a floured rolling pin into an oblong or oval about 11 by 15 inches. Lift up each sheet of dough by wrapping it around the rolling pin and unwrapping it onto a baking sheet. Spread the onion and tomato sauce evenly over the dough, then dot with the peppers and eggplants. Bake on the upper and lower racks of a preheated 350°F oven, switching the position of the baking sheets halfway through, for about 30 minutes, or until the edges of the crust are crisp and brown. Serve warm or at room temperature, cut into 4 or 8 pieces.
Variations
- -Cut the vegetables into ¾ -inch-wide strips instead of into squares or pieces.
- -Spread among the vegetables a can of anchovy fillets in oil, or of tuna or sardines, drained and broken into pieces, before baking.
- -Add 8 fresh pork sausages, lightly fried and cut into slices, to the topping.
- -Add about 12 slices bacon, cut into strips and lightly fried.
- -Add 1 pound mushrooms, sliced and briefly sautéed in oil.
Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.
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Last Updated ( Thursday, 21 July 2011 )
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Written by Lisa Lawless
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Thursday, 19 May 2011 |
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| |  | Figaretti’s Godfather II Linguine | |  | |
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For fans of Saveur magazine, Saveur's latest cookbook The New Comfort Food will feel like a trip down a memory lane of favorite foods. And, for anyone who may be seeing these dishes for the first time, every one of them looks inarguably appealing. Comfort food is like that. Regardless of the culture of origin, certain dishes just make you feel good, and everything in this book fits that category. The recipes and photos have all appeared in the magazine over the years, but the book conveniently brings them together and reminds even the most regular magazine readers of some stories they may have forgotten. There is Peppers Stuffed with Feta from the Greece issue, Chicken Fried Steak from the Texas issue, and Beijing-Style Everyday Fried Noodles from an issue that was also about comfort food.
Recipes are organized by starters, soups, eggs, pasta, fish, poultry, meat, sides, sweets, and drinks, and the photos bring on cravings quickly. The Guacamole is ready and waiting for some crispy chips to be dipped into the bowl, and the Deep-Fried Southern Catfish is shown with a fork that tempts. Whether it's the Sweet-and-Spicy Korean Fried Chicken, the Vegetarian Lasagne, or the Dulce de Leche Cake that gets you, this book will make you hungry. Several of the recipes are accompanied by additional information as well. It might be something about the primary ingredient or a particular cooking technique or the story of how the recipe came about. All of these asides add to the experience of the book and lend a better understanding of the food. One of those great, side-bar stories is about the Duncan Hines Adventures in Good Eating restaurant guides that were published from 1936 until 1962. This was the same Duncan Hines who became well-known for boxed cake mixes, but his first claim to fame was as a restaurant critic. It was from those restaurant guides that Todd Coleman of Saveur learned about the great Italian-American food at Figaretti's restaurant in West Virginia. And, it was Figaretti's "Godfather II" Linguine recipe (see below) that was the first in the book I wanted to try. This is a quick pasta dish made with shrimp, mussels, bell peppers, fresh tomatoes and basil. It breaks that Italian rule about never serving cheese with seafood, but the grated Asiago mingled well with the mix of flavors in the dish. Because everything cooks so quickly, it's necessary to have all the vegetables chopped and the pasta water boiling before starting. Then, after a brief sauté of green and red peppers, garlic, and onion, white wine is added and the mussels are steamed. Two minutes later, cherry tomatoes, shrimp, and butter are added, and by the time everything is tossed together, the shrimp are cooked through. Stir in cooked linguine and torn basil, and the cooking is complete. With wine, butter, and garlic running through the strands of pasta, and briny, fresh seafood and basil and tomatoes, this was indeed comfort on a plate.
Read more about Lisa's adventures with The New Comfort Food on her blog lisa is cooking.
Figaretti’s “Godfather II” Linguine Recipe from Saveur: The New Comfort Food by James Oseland (Chronicle Books, 2011) This dish, a mainstay at Figaretti's restaurant in Wheeling, West Virginia, is Italian-American cooking at its bighearted, bountiful best: shrimp and mussels, peppers and tomatoes, fresh basil, white wine, and silky linguine.Serves 2
- Kosher salt, to taste
- 8 oz. dried linguine
- ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
- ½ cup chopped green bell pepper
- ½ cup chopped red bell pepper
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 small yellow onion, chopped
- 1/3 cup white wine
- 8 mussels, scrubbed and debearded
- ½ cup halved cherry tomatoes
- 2 tbsp. unsalted butter
- 8 large shrimp, peeled and deveined
- 8 leaves basil, torn, plus more for garnish
- Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
- ½ cup grated Asiago cheese
- 4 lemon wedges
1. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the linguine; cook until al dente, 8-10 minutes. Drain the pasta; reserve ¼ cup pasta water. 2. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the green and red peppers, garlic, and onion; cook until they begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the wine and the mussels; cook, covered, until the mussels open, about 2 minutes. Add the reserved pasta water, tomatoes, butter, and shrimp and cook, stirring, until the shrimp are just pink, about 1 minute. Add the cooked linguine, toss to combine, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and clings to the pasta. Stir in the basil and season with salt and pepper. 3. Divide pasta between 2 bowls. Sprinkle with more basil and Asiago and garnish with lemon wedges Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.
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Last Updated ( Thursday, 19 May 2011 )
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