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The Sweet Life

According to the American Diabetes Association, in January 2011 8.3% of the United  States  population--or approximately 25.8 million children and adults--was diabetic.That is a pretty scary statistic.

One of the...

TEAM PROJECT FOODIE

Lights, Camera, Cookbook!

Combine the ongoing popularity of TV food shows with the ever-popular cookbook, and the result is a boatload of new books by TV chefs. While fans of the shows are bound...

TEAM PROJECT FOODIE

Healthy but Tasty

Are you ringing in the New Year with a healthy lifestyle resolution?  While many will say healthy equates to not-tasty I disagree.  To me healthy means moderation and thinking...

About Carolyn Jung

My CookBookKarma Chatter Carolyn Jung is an award-winning food and wine writer. She is the recipient of a James Beard award for feature writing about restaurants/chefs, a Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism award of excellence for diversity writing, an award from the American Association of Sunday and Features Editors, and numerous honors from the Association of Food Journalists, and the Peninsula Press Club. For 11 years, she was the food writer/editor for the San Jose Mercury News. Her work now appears in the San Francisco Chronicle, San Francisco Magazine, and other publications. She also is the creator of the FoodGal.com blog.

Caroln Jung's Articles

Plate to Pixel, Digital Food Photography and Styling

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Written by Carolyn Jung   
Wednesday, 03 August 2011

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Version 1
If you think you've noticed a certain similarity in look among online food blog photos lately, you are not mistaken. The soft rays of natural light hitting the dishes just so. The distressed, rough-hewn look of the dining table. The nuts, berries and herbs that have been scattered around the place settings to provide a messy, yet thoroughly inviting feel. Those are all hallmarks of food photos taken by the talented Helene Dujardin, a pastry chef-turned-food photographer who also created the very popular, award-winning food site, Tarteletteblog.com. Who can blame other bloggers all over the globe for now wanting to emulate her luminous style?

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Version 2
Dujardin, a native of France who now lives in South Carolina, started taking food photos when she worked as a pastry chef at a small French restaurant. Back then, it was merely a way to record the look of each dessert, so that her staff could recreate them on nights she wasn't working. She grew so fond of snapping photos that in 2006, she decided to start her blog and segue into food photography and food styling full-time.

Now, she's sharing her knowledge and advice in her new book, "Plate to Pixel, Digital Food Photography & Styling'' (Wiley). If you're already a seasoned photographer, this book probably isn't for you. But if you're someone who is afraid to shoot with anything but the "auto'' setting, and who doesn't know an f/stop from an ISO, then this book will be a godsend. It covers the basic fundamentals of using your camera to photograph food. And it does so in a way that's so thoroughly easy to understand. If you've ever heard Dujardin speak at a blogging conference as I have, you can almost pick up the charming French, Southern lilt in her voice as you read her words in this book. She encourages you every step of the way, so that nothing she describes ever seems too difficult or overwhelming to attempt.

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Set-up
Want to learn how to capture that stream of maple syrup pouring out of a pitcher as it hits that stack of pancakes? Dujardin will tell you how. Want to know how best to shoot with artificial lights when natural isn't available? There's a chapter on that. Want to figure out the best room in your house to snap your food photos? She helps you do that. Want to learn how to style your dish with props that compliment in color and design? She will teach you.

ImageFor me, among the most useful information in the book were the series of photos that show how she sets up her camera and lights for various shots. In particular, it was fascinating to see how the different set-ups to diffuse and bounce light can make such a difference in whether a photo comes out harsh and moody with too many shadows or bright, cheery and glowing with perfect illumination.

So, grab your camera, a cute cupcake, some stylish props and a copy of this book to start shooting some mesmerizing food photos that will capture everyone's imagination.

For reviews on two more must-reads this summer, go to Carolyn's blog FoodGal.com.

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Last Updated ( Sunday, 31 July 2011 )
 

Life, on the Line

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Written by Carolyn Jung   
Tuesday, 22 February 2011

When Chef Grant Achatz opened his acclaimed restaurant, Alinea, in Chicago, he named it for the paragraph mark to symbolize how his cuisine there would represent a “new train of thought’’ never before experienced in fine-dining.

Little did he know that exact same philosophy also would help save his life a few years later, when he battled stage 4 squamous cell carcinoma. There is no stage 5.

No doubt you’re familiar with Achatz’s stunning story, which has been chronicled in newspapers and magazines such as the New Yorker. But in his new book, ΄Life, on the Line: A Chef’s Story of Chasing Greatness, Facing Death, and Redefining the Way We Eat’’ (Penguin), Achatz tells the full story for the first time in his own words about the shock of being diagnosed with tongue cancer at the peak of his career at age 32.

Doctor after doctor told him he would die a painful death in mere months if he didn’t undergo radical surgery to remove his tongue and part of his jaw, which would leave him disfigured, unable to talk and without the ability to taste. For anyone, such a diagnosis would be devastating. But for a chef, it was beyond tragic. And for Achatz, a James Beard Award-winning chef whose restaurant already had been named ΄Best Restaurant in America’’ by Gourmet magazine and ΄Best Restaurant in North America’’ by Restaurant magazine, it was truly unimaginable.

Despite conventional thinking, Achatz decided to gamble on an alternative, experimental treatment that would spare him the horrific surgery. Perhaps that’s not surprising for a chef who has gained fame for his ΄molecular gastronomy’’ cuisine, which pushes the envelope with its foams, vapors, spheres and uncanny flavor combinations. Even so, the treatment of intensive, targeted chemotherapy and radiation was agonizing to endure. It essentially burned him from the inside out to try to annihilate the cancer.

The treatment was successful, but Achatz lost his ability to taste for awhile. Fortunately, it has since returned, though he still has a hard time with spicy and super sweet foods. His frame remains slight and his voice raspy. But he is as driven as ever — perhaps even more so now.

His ordeal with cancer, undeniably dramatic, takes up only a small portion of the book. The rest is devoted to all that led up to his life to that point — his love of being in restaurants since he was a toddler, helping out in his grandmother’s popular café in Michigan, and at his parents’ bustling eatery nearby. There are his early days learning the basics at the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, NY; his grueling time at Charlie Trotter’s restaurant under what he describes as the tyranny of an egocentric, bullying celeb chef; and his determination to get a tryout at the French Laundry in Yountville by sending Chef Thomas Keller a resume every day for 14 days straight until he called Achatz; and his stage at El Bulli in Spain — arranged by Keller — which totally transformed the way he approached cooking.

Keller became a mentor to Achtaz, who even named his second son after him. Achatz, who rose to sous chef at the French Laundry, also credits the discipline, drive and tenacity instilled in him during his four years at that landmark restaurant, as giving him the strength to survive.

The book was written with Nick Kokonas, his business partner and good friend, who was instrumental in helping Achatz navigate the ups and downs of his illness. It’s a mesmerizing read that you won’t be able to put down. At times, it will make you laugh out loud and at others, leave you nearly sobbing. Most of all, it will leave you with the utmost respect for a young chef and all that he endured on his journey to be the best.

For more on Grant Achatz, read the Q&A with him on FoodGal.

See the Alinea Hot Potato Cold Potato recipe here.

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Last Updated ( Friday, 18 February 2011 )
 

High Flavor, Low Labor

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Written by Carolyn Jung   
Thursday, 11 November 2010

ImageBack in the day, before the advent of the Internet, wire services were depended upon for getting the news first and fast in the world of traditional journalism. No agency epitomized that more than the Associated Press.

It's only appropriate then that the new cookbook by the food editor of the AP be all about speedy, reliable dishes to make on hectic deadline-packed weeknights. "High Flavor, Low Labor'' (Ballentine Books) by J.M. Hirsch contains nearly 150 recipes filled with global flavors and time-saving tips. As a dad, he knows first hand how to create a dish that will satisfy the entire family, especially when every member is ravenous to sit down to eat.

There are inventive takes on such standbys as hummus, with Hirsch's "Spiced Cashew Hummus with Smoked Paprika'' made with cashew butter and hot sauce. There's a kid-loving "Deep-Dish Pesto and Prosciutto Tortilla Pizza,'' which involves stacking tortillas with tomato sauce, slices of prosciutto, onion, and cheese, then baking, before slicing into wedges like a pie. And there are crowd favorites such as "Pepper Steak Grinders with Mango Chutney'' that take a mere 20 minutes to make.

On a recent weeknight, I decided to try my hand at the recipe for "Lemon Grass and White Bean Turkey Chili.'' It's sort of a cross between the classic Thai soup, tom kha gai, and American white chili.

Aromatics, including a lemon grass stalk, onion, garlic, chili powder, cumin, cinnamon, smoked paprika and jalapenos get sautéed in a Dutch oven.

The recipe calls for jarred jalapeno pepper slices. Not wanting to buy a jar just for that one purpose, I substituted fresh, diced jalapeno, along with some fresh lime juice instead, which worked out quite well.
Although the recipe instructs you to next add the coconut milk, chicken broth, ground turkey and drained cannellini beans all at once to the pot, I opted to add the ground turkey first and let that cook until it crumbled. Otherwise, I feared the big mound of raw turkey meat would be too difficult to break into smaller pieces once all the other ingredients were added.

After adding everything else, let the mixture simmer for 20 minutes. Just before serving, add a hefty amount of baby spinach leaves and cook just until wilted.

This Asian-take on white chili is at once hearty, creamy, a little spicy and a little tangy. For a dish that came together in about half an hour, it tasted far more complex than anticipated. Just like an article done in the heat of deadline, this is one dish that definitely hits the spot fast.

Read more about Carolyn's experience with High Flavor, Low Labor on her blog FoodGal

Lemon Grass and White Bean Turkey Chili

From High Flavor, Low Labor by J.M. Hirsch, Ballentine Books 2010

Lemon grass, which has a pleasant sour-lemon flavor and aroma, is sold in the produce section. It resembles a long, yellow scallion and has a woody texture. Treat it like a bay leaf.add it to a soup, chili, or casserole, let it simmer to infuse the dish, then fish it out and discard it. Before adding lemon grass to a dish, cut it into 2- to 3-inch-long chunks and gently bruise them with a rolling pin to break up the fibers.

  • 15-inch stalk lemon grass, cut into 4 segments and gently crushed
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon diced jarred jalapeno pepper slices
  • 1 large yellow onion, diced
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1/2 teaspoon chili powder
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
  • 14-ounce can coconut milk
  • 1 cup chicken broth
  • 1 1/4 pounds ground turkey (chicken or lean beef could be substituted)
  • 15-ounce can cannellini beans, drained
  • 4 cups lightly packed baby spinach
  • Salt and ground black pepper, to taste

In a large saucepan or medium Dutch oven over medium-high heat, combine the lemon grass, olive oil, jalapenos, onion, garlic, chili powder, cumin, cinnamon, and smoked paprika. Saute for 3 minutes.

Add the coconut milk, broth, turkey, and beans. Bring to a simmer, then cover, reduce heat to low, and cook for 20 minutes. Discard the lemon grass. Add the spinach and stir for 1 minute, or until it wilts. Season with salt and pepper.

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Last Updated ( Sunday, 07 November 2010 )
 

Mario Batali's Molto Gusto

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Written by Carolyn Jung   
Thursday, 19 August 2010

ImageIt is heavy on the veggies; skimpy on the meat.

It is a most unexpected new cookbook from the one and only Mario Batali.

Yes, the porcine prince, known especially for his way of coaxing unforgettable flavors from offal and other esoteric cuts of meat, has written "Molto Gusto'' (Ecco), a cookbook filled with casual, simple fare that puts the spotlight on seasonal, fresh produce instead.

The once portly celeb chef also has reportedly lost more than 45 pounds. He's even become a proponent of the "Meatless Mondays'' movement, which encourages people to eat more vegetables at least one day a week. To that end, Batali has added new vegetarian options at each of his 14 restaurants every Monday.

If you carnivores out there are tempted to stop reading now, you'll end up missing out. This is not a vegetarian cookbook. Indeed, you'll find dishes such as "Lentils with Pancetta,'' "Mussels with Peperonata,'' "Sausage and Pepper Pizza,'' and "Linguine with Squid & Its Ink.'' But the dishes are decidedly lighter, with meat used as an accent, rather than as the star. Even my husband, who would relish eating a big slab of meat at every meal of the day if he could, found himself enjoying a meatless pasta dish from the book far more than he expected.

That dish is "Pennette with Summer Squash and Ricotta.'' It couldn't be easier to make, either. It's such a cinch that you could even whip it up on a busy weekday after work.

Pennette rigate pasta gets boiled in a big pot of water. When it reaches the al dente stage, it's drained, then tossed with zucchini and summer squash slices that have been sautéed in olive oil, as well as a big handful of fresh mint.

Divide the pasta among serving dishes. Top with big spoonfuls of creamy ricotta that's been mixed with olive oil and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. That's it.

It's a dish that tastes of summer. The mint adds lightness to the rich ricotta. The addition of olive oil to the ricotta is genius, lending far more complexity to the fresh, milky taste. Be sure to use a high-quality extra virgin olive oil. When you have a dish like this that has only a few ingredients, you really want to make sure each is top-notch so that they really shine.

From antipasti to salads to pizza and pastas, this book will show you that you don't have to rely on meat to make a dish distinctive and delicious.

Give it a try. If Mario can, so can you.

Read more of what Carolyn has to say about Mario Batali and Molto Gusto on her blog Food Gal

Pennette with Summer Squash and Ricotta

From Molto Gusto by Mario Batali (ecco 2010)

Serves 6

  • Kosher salt
  • 1 cup fresh ricotta
  • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus extra for serving
  • 2 to 3 tablespoons warm water
  • 1 pound summer squash or zucchini, or a combination, cut lengthwise in half and sliced into 1/3-inch-thick half-moons
  • Maldon or other flaky sea salt
  • 1 pound pennette rigate
  • 6 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh mint
  • Coarsely ground black pepper

Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

Meanwhile, whisk the ricotta and 3 tablespoons of the olive oil together in a small bowl. Add the Parmigiano, whisking until it is evenly incorporated. Whisk in 2 table- spoons warm water, then whisk in another tablespoon of water if necessary to loosen the consistency.

Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the squash and cook, stirring, until just tender and golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Season well with Maldon salt and remove from the heat.

Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/3 cup of the pasta water.

Add the pasta and the reserved pasta water to the squash, stirring and tossing over medium heat to mix well. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and allow to steam together for 2 minutes.

Stir in the mint, season with Maldon salt if necessary and with pepper, and transfer the pasta to a serving bowl. Garnish with dollops of the whipped ricotta and serve immediately, with additional grated Parmigiano on the side.

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Last Updated ( Wednesday, 11 August 2010 )
 

Momofuku

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Written by Carolyn Jung   
Monday, 12 April 2010

Momofuku by David Chang, Peter Meehan (Clarkson Potter, 2009) is a 2010 James Beard book awards finalist in the Cooking from a Professional Point of View category. For a list of all the finalists check out the Project Foodie James Beard Finalists' Guide.

Win a copy of Momofuku! - details

ImageThere are a few reasons why "Momofuku'' was one of the most talked about cookbooks of 2009.

First, it was written by one of the most buzzed about chefs in the country, David Chang of the wildly successful, mini Momofuku restaurant empire in New York.

Second, legions of diners have gone gah-gah over Chang's reinterpretation of Korean street food, born anew with pristine ingredients and molecular gastronomy techniques.

And third, the irrepressible Chang never ceases to capture the spotlight anytime he opens his mouth, unleashing a stream of expletives, along with his way-too frank, yet often thoughtful, musings about the industry and life.

All of that is reflected in "Momofuku,'' the cookbook co-written by New York Times writer, Peter Meehan, who successfully captures Chang's unique voice, right down to the f-bombs.

Yes, this is a cookbook like no other - replete with cuss words and deal-breaker recipes, including a ramen one that spans 10 pages.

But get past that, and you'll find inventive recipes that don't require days at the stove, including "Roasted Cauliflower with Fish Sauce Vinaigrette'' and "Roasted Asparagus with Poached Egg and Miso Butter.'' Momofuku fans also will be delighted to find recipes for their favorite pork buns stuffed with juicy pork belly, and the famous bo ssam, a family-style feast of roasted pork butt and raw oysters folded up into lettuce leaves with kimchi and chile sauce.

Even more than the food, what makes this cookbook so special, though, is Chang's story. It unfolds page by page almost like a memoir, as he recounts his days working at the esteemed Café Boulud in New York, where he never felt he measured up, to his stint in Japan, where he labored to learn the nuances of the ancient culinary art of ramen. His is a story of struggle, self-doubt, and real disbelief at his own success. In the end, it's a story as delectably addicting as the food he creates.

Read more about Momofuku including his famous pork buns recipe in Carolyn's full review of Momofuku and Carolyn's Q&A with David Chang on her blog foodgal.

Win a copy of Momofuku

The registered Project Foodie user that leaves the most memorable or creative comment below will win a copy of Momofuku.  Keep the comments clean and relevant - tell us what attracts you to Momofuku and/or what you feel makes this book award-worthy and we'll select one to be the winner of Momofuku.

Please note that you must be registered to enter this giveaway and upon winning provide a US postal address for us to ship Momofukuto.  We'll announce the winner on May 2nd.

If you have not yet registered with Project Foodie, please take a moment to do so right now--it's absolutely free; and we promise never to share your email address with spammers or other unsavory types.

Disclosure: Review copies of books discussed in this post may have been provided to Project Foodie by publicists and/or publishers.

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Last Updated ( Monday, 12 April 2010 )
 
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